the wire tuck pic thread

[Envy2343]

ok so idn if there is this thread yet but i think it would be interesting to see what came up hears mine not much of a tuck butt...
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr193/NICKARMACY/IMAG0115.jpg

[BustedS13]

heh. tuck butt.

[GSXRJJordan]

Tucked and loomed Mil-spec harnesses is what I do lol.

My Mil-spec RB25 setup from the JefeS14, currently for sale with harness:
http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pt6XVY3k-eingmgwRQACJXQdgoDaoF6zxHdd4peJw6AydSFV5SgtxEjmhy6 OZIerjkj5RAAJHwl14O6An_4qyXg/DSC06168.jpg

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pgTJIkuvO4dZGfqQaJQjR88t1PziMbmufkVkQF8JD3g02mx3 Ysf8MdHY9SJb0q05RFPSGOm7Lb4PUtJmmCiuEoQ/DSC06119.jpg

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1p4p6TRCL-lTRxWctQJrwBiWqV9mKOPPuDe-ONUDYt7IsmuX0PGmE1Z5X_58SHHoV4gJ1dbGODk8tBM8zMmcEs Hw/DSC06162.jpg

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pgkhTXw9ZwF0Nh5rBw1GahqsnN4GG8cJFJI4W_aaD6CYidwp ohd1Ew9YnkKoHn5kmsGV1uk3WLZze5agKDcfT1g/DSC06163.jpg

Conrad Grunewald's Mil-spec LSA harness in his 2010 Formula D Camaro, from scratch.
http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pSYxJMm3iBwVmAmc6OAGUBVInaiNdKfDUs9bvdRYWF-Zf9sNu41d_ugRmmQhiQ2hHobCaZwQT3UDs8XiikH_bmQ/IMG_0095.jpg

http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pH4D1Erpsvr_N71rMWNTrE50oeUvMazqywISrW5hY5iHgW6-TDUWyw6fMETU50xseOeO9M3Yk6TPQKkKsXNF1Tg/DSCF0042.jpg

[Mister.E]

Jeff's wiring skills are off the hook.

Do you have any pics of the setup you did on Matt Powers' S14?

[jspec240]

ROFL:rofl:[email protected] tuck butt....


Nice Tuck man... any side views?

[GSXRJJordan]

Forgot one more, Wayne (Om1kron's) SR20 tuck/loom/cleanup:
http://xgh1yq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pWsBLBxlg7zH00paRzvttCR3ETxiWqKKoEMvIu3_1f2e9iNl KK1oxtB7zZmYa8PsPyMxXtvJCFndtgo9rw8679j6ucMj4N01t/DSC06563.jpg

Jeff's wiring skills are off the hook.

Do you have any pics of the setup you did on Matt Powers' S14?

I didn't take many pics of Matt's car because I haven't done his upper engine harness yet... here's what his dash/chassis harness looked like before lol.
http://xgh1yq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pFAsxBqyLuX62Rzn324DxegyCzkhc2scHBzjaeztWk79--g27D_dzcJVrabODiXsyHxB1o8Cs5Ge-tvDoCNptFZJTENr_mGnx/matt%20powers%208.jpg

After with relay/circuit breaker panel, big bundle of white wires runs to his switches/gauges just how he wanted it:
http://xgh1yq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pVmxocOpX8n2L-ToJQyvFDjfm1B8RMhtZzZrhVc_upnq54er_w4CRMFni6zagG71 rXe1fmTMFbpTKa520ibDHkHfFM0idKrru/matt%20powers%209.jpg

http://xgh1yq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1pOt1_mVE9U-QRHSaVsCdC188gsbh475U1IBlmwJ5De0pW0Ejcsw_nq7HpKz5o gvOSIM6zWR7oPWhuV-1dfEVW6d2H_iXYyNH0/IMG_0648.jpg

http://xgh1yq.bay.livefilestore.com/y1peX84rByvcGjEpeDVa-UcPH-Kvk2QGXJJCw4nwJFcC5sL7kkKWh9vg27MgnY9i_Ok7MFCPt4qp OOZq_RbBcVZ_l9kt5MNKc0K/matt%20powers%2014.jpg

[killer240]

my interior before. not anymore, gona put the interior back

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/uchs_09/IMG_0851-1.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/uchs_09/IMG_0847.jpg

[james13]

wire tuck?

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b319/awdgsx86/NewImage.jpg

[timlush]

Honda-Tech.com

[REVOisGO]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v461/nick_neitzel/24920_332713973095_500943095_362133.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v461/nick_neitzel/24920_332738248095_500943095_362142.jpg

cut and respliced all chassis wires, omitted unneeded ones, and ran everything under the dashboard. worst place to put a fuse box ever, dont do it.

[ctnewman]

Pretty tucked:

http://onyxsyndicate.com/newman/e30gtr/img/washed13.jpg

http://onyxsyndicate.com/newman/e30gtr/img/washed01.jpg

[Envy2343]

those are some sick tucks butt lets keep this thread with quotes to a min and pics to a max lol http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/rr193/NICKARMACY/IMAG0116.jpg

[BustedS13]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v461/nick_neitzel/24920_332713973095_500943095_362133.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v461/nick_neitzel/24920_332738248095_500943095_362142.jpg

cut and respliced all chassis wires, omitted unneeded ones, and ran everything under the dashboard. worst place to put a fuse box ever, dont do it.

is this the targa 240, or another one?

[Matej]

Tucked bays are my favorite.
Hope to finish mine soon.

Always thought this one was neat.
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b244/elitistprick/russfronthood8pf.jpg

[WangonwWarrior]

Chasebays CM1 wiring harness

http://i401.photobucket.com/albums/pp91/Wanganwarrior/Nissans/IMG_0052.jpg

Chasebays brake booster delete kit

http://i401.photobucket.com/albums/pp91/Wanganwarrior/Nissans/IMG_1107.jpg

http://i401.photobucket.com/albums/pp91/Wanganwarrior/Nissans/IMG_1108.jpg

Chase bays ka24de harness in development

http://i401.photobucket.com/albums/pp91/Wanganwarrior/Nissans/IMG_0050.jpg











Cant wait for it to look like this

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs335.ash1/28914_121036154584152_100000333053077_198430_61485 14_n.jpg (http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=198424&id=100000333053077)

[REVOisGO]

is this the targa 240, or another one?

no....its mine. the blue one with the zebra dashboard. mike's is red with an ls1

[R33E8]

Where the hell do you guys get new connectors from?

[WangonwWarrior]

Used connectors, just new pins inside them.

[R33E8]

Hmm I guess that would work too.. Where do you guys get the pins from? lol.. Are they a standard style or a bunch of different ones? Any specific brand or part number to look for?

[Dustxking]

+1 for chasebays i saw their work on stanceworks and i couldnt stop staring at their work.

[GSXRJJordan]

WanganWarrior, are you Chase? I noticed you're in Alabama also, and I know Chase moved back to the South with the folks.

[florante rea]

waiting for chasebays to start the sr harness myself.

[Om1kron]

in my defense, I built my harness...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v46/om1kron/My%20Cars/1996%20240sx%20Kouki/2009-04-03%20-%20ITS%20ALIVE/2009wiring.jpg

jeff got rid of the excess for me so that's less shit dangling in the passenger kick panel.

I just wanted to get a little props for my work. I was pretty proud of it, don't know anyone else who built a harness like this for their sr20's before I did. But Jeff is definitely WAY better than me at it.

[GSXRJJordan]

wire tuck?

*Sick S-chassis turbo LS1*

I keep coming back to this picture, and couldn't figure out what was wrong, until now. What'd you do with the coilpacks?

Love the fuel rails, I might go that route on my LS.

[sidewayz240]

Nothing crazy, just a slight cleanup.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b118/sidewayz240/DSC01645.jpg

GSXRJordan, thats some clean work, good job.

[Tearlessj]

Hmm I guess that would work too.. Where do you guys get the pins from? lol.. Are they a standard style or a bunch of different ones? Any specific brand or part number to look for?
I'm with this guy, I searched for a answer a while back and never got one. Where can we purchase new pins from?

[Mister.E]

Where the hell do you guys get new connectors from?

+1 to this, my S14 SR harness has a cracked O2 connector and i'd like to replace it. anybody know where i can acquire one? are all of the S-Chassis O2 plugs the same?

[GSXRJJordan]

Whenever I do harnesses or conversions, I always end up with extra connectors... since most of the pins swap over from one connector to another (and I've got the tools and experience to pin/depin connectors without damaging them), I've never been in short supply of good condition pins or connector bodies.

That being said, stamped pins like the ones our connectors use are extremely cheap, if you can get the specs and buy a strip. For example, here's what you get from AEM to make their EMS connector for about $50 (probably only costs them $10):
http://d5otzd52uv6zz.cloudfront.net/g-f214c745-051c-40d7-afc4-0b6b46b49feb-800.jpg

[WestZ]

Some pretty nice tucks!!

[JDMSTYLE]

cannon plug masters!

[WangonwWarrior]

Hmm I guess that would work too.. Where do you guys get the pins from? lol.. Are they a standard style or a bunch of different ones? Any specific brand or part number to look for?

You can buy them in spools I believe but for all different makes they use different style pins

WanganWarrior, are you Chase? I noticed you're in Alabama also, and I know Chase moved back to the South with the folks.

No I am Mike, Im helping bring the product to the nissan world. And yes the company re located to Pelham, Alabama and is no longer in California.

waiting for chasebays to start the sr harness myself.

Yessir, will be available soon

[Hxc_Nismo]

i saw it tonite and it looked pretty good in person.

[james13]

I keep coming back to this picture, and couldn't figure out what was wrong, until now. What'd you do with the coilpacks?

Love the fuel rails, I might go that route on my LS.


they're there...don't worry :D

[C. Anderson]

Here is mine. I'm running a painless chassis harness and a stripped down factory engine harness that is re-loomed.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m53/95silvia06/S13%20Build%2009/IMG_5059.jpg

[PerilousActs]

Small portion of what's gone from my engine room harness:
http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs142.snc3/16977_1232092041411_1202430096_30606905_4423114_n. jpg

Bay is being shaved currently:
http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs458.snc3/26201_1280725097207_1202430096_30702896_7931595_n. jpg

Milspec harness later this summer.

[satal95]

Chase bays ka24de harness in development

http://i401.photobucket.com/albums/pp91/Wanganwarrior/Nissans/IMG_0050.jpg











Cant wait for it to look like this

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs335.ash1/28914_121036154584152_100000333053077_198430_61485 14_n.jpg (http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=198424&id=100000333053077)[/QUOTE]

Damn thats going to be sex lmk when the final product comes out

[Envy2343]

any more out there?

[mrchomponthis]

Mine will be done in about 3 weeks since finals is next week and I already blew my ecu from my first wire job and I am broke. lol. Fyi the only way these get done right is with tons of references and help from people like Jeff that know what they are doing.

[PerilousActs]

Here's some from a tuck someone did a while back. This is not my car, I just saved them because it's amazing. Full reverse swing pedal assembly to eliminate the brake booster too.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f190/realJDM/Outbrake%20Drift%20Day%20Sept%2010%202006/P1010108.jpg
Semi-tuck intercooler piping
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f190/realJDM/Outbrake%20Drift%20Day%20Sept%2010%202006/P1010109.jpg
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f190/realJDM/Outbrake%20Drift%20Day%20Sept%2010%202006/P1010110.jpg
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f190/realJDM/Outbrake%20Drift%20Day%20Sept%2010%202006/P1010112.jpg

[Matej]

Those reduced harnesses are super neat. Perhaps I will make/buy one someday.
Fortunately I was able to hide all the OEM wiring and fuseboxes without any cutting or soldering.

[240sxfamily]

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs434.ash1/24006_1314947727547_1646311531_731367_7695543_n.jp g

its cleaner now. but im going to be repainting it soon.


Since photo..

Intake has been fixed, Less zipties. More pretty bolts.

AND my ugly brake lines will all be tucked and replaced when i delete my ABS. the other hideous engine bay piece.

[stinky_180]

Fortunately I was able to hide all the OEM wiring and fuseboxes without any cutting or soldering.

Hey Matej, do you have pictures of your setup and how you routed it? Im not ready to chop up my harness, yet. If you can post up a couple of pictures, that would be awesome!

:hug:

[dopplganger1]

do you have any more pictures of the one with the tan valve cover possibly of the brake setup im kinda curios about that

[Corbic]

Boo, I was hoping to see some crazy shaved engine bays -

http://www.vwot.org/community/modules/Gallery/albums/album589/2_2441_19055_l_u9gfKb3R9G7DolDMUszHlw.sized.jpg

http://www.stanceiseverything.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/vorschebay.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v72/Mayerz/Volks/Moteurs/day2_215copy.jpg

[GSXRJJordan]

The Vdub guys do it for looks, I do it on race cars for performance, reliability, and lastly looks. When you start doing swing-pedals and putting your intake right over the header to 'hide it' (or not having an intake filter at all), it's time to consider your motives.

[mrchomponthis]

As far as the tan valve cover engine wire harness goes. Your cas wiring looks a lil wack drooping down and it looks like you used paper tape on the injector clips... just my opinion tho.

[PerilousActs]

As I said, it's not my car, just some pics I found online.

What Jordan said. There's a good balance between performance, reliability, easy to work on, and looks, but when you start doing crazy stuff that will interfere with the function of the car or make things difficult, you better be building a show car.

As far as hiding the brake and master cylinders go, it's simple.
http://www.kugelkomponents.com/products/brake_systems/brakesys90_508.jpg
http://www.kugelkomponents.com/products/brake_systems/update_may_2009/250wide/17-5123701.jpg
http://www.tiltonracing.com/incs/proimage.php?sid=400&m=b

There's quite a few options.

[Envy2343]

were do you find pedals like this

[Corbic]

were do you find pedals like this

Check the image URL's first one is Kugel Komponents (http://www.kugelkomponents.com)

Muscle/Hotrod/Classic car guys are the hands down gods of fabrication skillz.

[khoadogg]

sweet stuff!

[GSXRJJordan]

Yeah a Tilton/Wilwood pedal box with triple MC's (one for clutch, one for rear, one for front) and adjustable bias really isn't as expensive as you think. The pedals are like $150, and the MC's aren't too bad. Then you don't need the booster, and everything's hidden under the dash... problem is you've got to wire in your own brake light switch (and clutch interlock if that's your style).

[Om1kron]

I see no problem with making more room for a top mount turbo not to melt your brake reservoir. lol

[landins13]

where can you get the large circle connectors for the firewall the one with all of the pins on it, i tend to pull my motor very frequently and i would like to re-loom all of it and put one of those industrial connectors in so i can pull the motor and harness together and install them together.

[ATLspeed]

the mil-spec wire loom is a great but only crappy thing I hate about it is if you have to splice something then you have to cut up ur nice loom

**I worked at a manufacturing company where we made wire harness' for Boeing planes/heli and other military vehicles. if i had known better i would have just grabbed the supplies from work and did this lol.

[Om1kron]

where can you get the large circle connectors for the firewall the one with all of the pins on it, i tend to pull my motor very frequently and i would like to re-loom all of it and put one of those industrial connectors in so i can pull the motor and harness together and install them together.

There are plenty of places to buy them online and the pins, etc. But they're going to run you about 300+ dollars I believe they're like 180 dollars a side. And they're not really designed for multiple connects/disconnects.

[Drifting-pedobear]

me and my buddy did a wire tuck on my EK, wish i had welding skills back then and shaved it. turned out nice anyway.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z305/dirkadirrka/civic/bayshot2.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z305/dirkadirrka/civic/bayshot1.jpg

[Ceepo]

^looks really nice :D

[bardabe]

My Old S13, New project / chassis coming soon just need to finish my Twin Turbo 350Z. kinda sucks that i don't keep track of my customers wire tucks haha

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y196/FairladyZ32/S13/Standalone004.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y196/FairladyZ32/S13/Standalone007.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y196/FairladyZ32/S13/standalone017.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y196/FairladyZ32/S13/standalone016.jpg
under dash harness
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y196/FairladyZ32/S13/Standalone010.jpg

the car
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y196/FairladyZ32/S13/S13001.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y196/FairladyZ32/S13/S13004.jpg
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y196/FairladyZ32/S13/S13002.jpg

[nznew]

heres mine, stripped about half the loom, moved fusebox under the dash
if we had more time would have took the wires right out not just chopped them, next step is strip and add sheathing!

http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/6614/p1000299ai.jpg

[jserman]

My S13 mild tuck... cut down loom and got rid of all the extra stuff... relocated fuse boxes underneath the engine bay behind the headlights and did a small battery

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/Jserman/240sx/Done009.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/Jserman/240sx/Done010.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/Jserman/240sx/Done011.jpg

[Om1kron]

looks good.

[EnjoiNISMO]

Looks good jserman.

Damn hondas.
http://www.cmpixels.com/wp-content/gallery/eibach-meet-2010/img_2807.jpg

[GSXRJJordan]

Some of the Hondas are great, but it seems like they put an inordinate amount of effort into it to not get rid of the fusebox and battery. Same goes with our cars.

There are plenty of places to buy them online and the pins, etc. But they're going to run you about 300+ dollars I believe they're like 180 dollars a side. And they're not really designed for multiple connects/disconnects.

I can get you guys the connectors you need, you have to be very careful when ordering them because you're ordering from a military supplier, where all they care about is a part number... there's probably 10 characteristics that make up a part number, and if you jumble one or two you now have a couple very expensive paperweights.

About the number of connects/disconnects ~ these connectors are usually rated for a certain number, after which if they were used in a military application, they'd have to be replaced. Most people will be fine, but don't go reconnecting it every 5 minutes for people at a car show or something.

[kyles1988]

My old civic

http://images24.fotki.com/v874/photos/4/47612/4882786/IMG_6875copy-vi.jpg

My friend Toby's engine bay...I guess he's doing a real tuck/shave sooner or later.

http://images46.fotki.com/v1482/photos/4/47612/3915226/IMG173zilviacopy-vi.jpg

[IIIXziuR]

^ that is one of my favourite S-Chassis engine bays.
So clean. So much attention to detail.

[S13coupeRB25DET]

My old civic

http://images24.fotki.com/v874/photos/4/47612/4882786/IMG_6875copy-vi.jpg

My friend Toby's engine bay...I guess he's doing a real tuck/shave sooner or later.

http://images46.fotki.com/v1482/photos/4/47612/3915226/IMG173zilviacopy-vi.jpg




Thats like the sickest sr20det ive seen in along time.:drool:

[Envy2343]

damn i have lots of work to do

[Matej]

Is it alright to have the power steering reservoir located this low, below the pump?

http://www.matejblahut.com/gallery/d/1766-1/steeringperformance.jpg

Some declare that the pump needs to be gravity fed, while others say the reservoir can be below the pump, as long as there are no major leaks in the system.

[GSXRJJordan]

Is it alright to have the power steering reservoir located this low, below the pump?

Some declare that the pump needs to be gravity fed, while others say the reservoir can be below the pump, as long as there are no major leaks in the system.

It's certainly not ideal, but yes there's a fair amount of vacuum created by the pump and I never had p/s problems with my reservoir mounted below the pump on the SR or RB25. What it does mean is that every time you start the car, it has to re-bleed itself, which is not great for your pump (they like to be lubricated and cooled by fluid all the time) but not the end of the world.

In short, not recommended, but not a real hazard either.

[White Comet]

Is it alright to have the power steering reservoir located this low, below the pump?

Some declare that the pump needs to be gravity fed, while others say the reservoir can be below the pump, as long as there are no major leaks in the system. what i did for mine that looks nicer and is a little more ideal is mount it closer to the firewall between the strut tower and the master cylinder. i'll have to put up a pic of it there, i really like it

[Matej]

Great information, thank you. I will keep it there for now. If my pump ever goes out, I shall relocate it elsewhere.

[Om1kron]

what i did for mine that looks nicer and is a little more ideal is mount it closer to the firewall between the strut tower and the master cylinder. i'll have to put up a pic of it there, i really like it

http://i798.photobucket.com/albums/yy262/RurouniMidnight/PSresivoirtuck.jpg
http://i798.photobucket.com/albums/yy262/RurouniMidnight/PSresivoirtuck2.jpg
http://i798.photobucket.com/albums/yy262/RurouniMidnight/PSlinesran1.jpg

just in case you're not a premie.

[D C]

About the number of connects/disconnects ~ these connectors are usually rated for a certain number, after which if they were used in a military application, they'd have to be replaced. Most people will be fine, but don't go reconnecting it every 5 minutes for people at a car show or something.

We use the multipin connectors on our camera systems, some of them going on 15+ years strong of being connected and disconnected a few times a month at least.

As long as they are pinned properly, and you aren't a hamfisted retard when connecting them (pretty hard to mess up anyway) then there shouldn't be a problem.

[conrad_s13.5]

looks like a hastle just to top off your p/s fluids

[IIIXziuR]

Those ideas for relocating the P/S reservoir look pretty cool.
What kind of rubber hose should one use when doing this?

[yingiang]

damn theres alot of WIN in this thread. love the clean engine bay look

[Om1kron]

Those ideas for relocating the P/S reservoir look pretty cool.
What kind of rubber hose should one use when doing this?

aeroquip push lock hose for the reservoir.

[GSXRJJordan]

Those ideas for relocating the P/S reservoir look pretty cool.
What kind of rubber hose should one use when doing this?

aeroquip push lock hose for the reservoir.

The Aeroquip push-loc stuff is great, but any oil-safe rubber hose will work as well. Make sure there aren't any kinks.

5/8" (-10an) is what you want for reservoir to pump, 3/8" (-6an) is low pressure from the rack back to the reservoir.

[NiSilS14]

not mine but a cousin's. Pretty neat stuff.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs430.ash1/23805_375243197780_568937780_3766046_7801608_n.jpg

[White Comet]

The Aeroquip push-loc stuff is great, but any oil-safe rubber hose will work as well. Make sure there aren't any kinks.

5/8" (-10an) is what you want for reservoir to pump, 3/8" (-6an) is low pressure from the rack back to the reservoir.that sounds about right. i remember the one size was kinda hard to find. also, i used the the fitting from an s14 off the ps pump since its angled differently and works better for the relocation

[stockbee]

these look sick!

[kalypso123]

http://d5otzd52uv6zz.cloudfront.net/g-f214c745-051c-40d7-afc4-0b6b46b49feb-800.jpg

:love: nice to know

[TurboSE]

I use a lot of weatherpack connector, not as factory looking as the ones above, but I like em.

[GSXRJJordan]

I use a lot of weatherpack connector, not as factory looking as the ones above, but I like em.

Weatherpacks are fantastic for big stuff (14ga, 12ga), and I use them for things like radiator fans and starter solenoids. The problem with a loose plastic connector like that though is insertion issues between the pins and sockets, and they're just physically too large.

[s142jzkillav10]

Very Very nice. I wanna do my tuck to show it off aswell.

[White Comet]

heres some pics of mine, the wire tuck is done, but the car isnt running so i'm trouble shooting and picking up a harness tomorrow, but it'll continue to look like that.
http://i594.photobucket.com/albums/tt30/infiniX/new%20project/bov013.jpg
http://i594.photobucket.com/albums/tt30/infiniX/new%20project/bov012.jpg
http://i594.photobucket.com/albums/tt30/infiniX/new%20project/bov016.jpg
thats fully wired, every wire that'll ever be in there is.

http://i594.photobucket.com/albums/tt30/infiniX/new%20project/ound017.jpg
the the engine wires are run through the ac hole

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp31/Rockman195/The%20New%20Project/bigupdate025.jpg
all the wires for the engine before anything else went in.

http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp31/Rockman195/The%20New%20Project/bigupdate016.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp31/Rockman195/The%20New%20Project/bigupdate017.jpg
http://i395.photobucket.com/albums/pp31/Rockman195/The%20New%20Project/bigupdate018.jpg
everything for the engine harness being cut to length and done up so we could see exactly what we could tuck.

http://i594.photobucket.com/albums/tt30/infiniX/new%20project/leds014.jpg
http://i594.photobucket.com/albums/tt30/infiniX/new%20project/leds015.jpg
pretty much how it looks now.

the body harness was shortened and run across the dash bar and only was need to run down the fenders was, like the headlights and turn signals. everything visible in the engine bay was wrapped in techflex and heatshrink.

[WangonwWarrior]

Got my tucked brake line kit from chasebays for the s13!

http://i746.photobucket.com/albums/xx104/NeedMoreMotorsport/240sx%20parts%20for%20sale/IMG_0192.jpg

http://i746.photobucket.com/albums/xx104/NeedMoreMotorsport/240sx%20parts%20for%20sale/IMG_0194.jpg

http://i746.photobucket.com/albums/xx104/NeedMoreMotorsport/240sx%20parts%20for%20sale/IMG_0195.jpg

http://i746.photobucket.com/albums/xx104/NeedMoreMotorsport/240sx%20parts%20for%20sale/IMG_0196.jpg

http://i746.photobucket.com/albums/xx104/NeedMoreMotorsport/240sx%20parts%20for%20sale/IMG_0197.jpg


And the LS1 millspec harness



http://i746.photobucket.com/albums/xx104/NeedMoreMotorsport/240sx%20parts%20for%20sale/IMG_0184.jpg

http://i746.photobucket.com/albums/xx104/NeedMoreMotorsport/240sx%20parts%20for%20sale/IMG_0183.jpg

[White Comet]

very nice, how do you run the cb brake lines exactly?

[Om1kron]

He can probably better explain than me. But I wouldn't run soft lines like that for my brakes. Regardless of what pressures they can withstand.

[Ekin_s13]

http://i772.photobucket.com/albums/yy6/Ekin_s13/Picture.jpg

[WISH ONE]

Got my tucked brake line kit from chasebays for the s13
how much were your lines?
I love how they label everything, I talked to the guys from chase a while ago at a Spocom when i was still doing sales, and all of their stuff was sooo sick.

[WangonwWarrior]

very nice, how do you run the cb brake lines exactly?

It is very very simple. I thought I was going to have trouble running them but they basically run in the stock locations except they tuck behind the motor instead of up top where the stock ugly hardlines are

He can probably better explain than me. But I wouldn't run soft lines like that for my brakes. Regardless of what pressures they can withstand.

Why not? The s-chassis brake lines are rubber lines in the wheel well and hold up fine, even at 20 years old. I plan on road racing on these brake lines once they come out for the FD.

[IIIXziuR]

I was merely thinking of creating new brake lines and running the behind the motor but those Chase or w/e look pretty spiffy.

I'm curious to know how they perform...

[Chase Bays]

Everything looks great folks. We're releasing our line of 240sx stuff now!

Engine harnesses - Ours are built with brand new wire and pins. Loomed in nylon sleeving and ADHESIVE lined heat shrink. We also offer a Mil Spec quick disconnect for the firewall. For most Nissan motors we're integrating the lower harness and trans harness with the engine harness for a better look and easier install. (Note: You connect and disconnect the firewall connector as much as you want, there is no set amount for that)

ALSO Brake line relocation kit, AN fuel line kit with inline fuel filter, One piece clutch line, Brake booster delete with Wilwood master cylinder kit, and more.

Also for those saying stainless braided line doesn't perform the same...I guarantee you it will feel exactly the same if not better than your OEM setup. It is a common thing to hear or think they do not perform as well. We've been using this stuff for years! 9 second drag cars, Redline Time Attack cars, and hundreds upon hundreds of street cars have used our stuff with zero issues, ever. Once we sale more kits to our Nissan customers I'm sure we can get some positive feedback in to reassure everyone.

Thanks!

[RurouniMidnight]

Wow sounds good, Intrested in checkin that all out.

[MavericStephenc]

Everything looks great folks. We're releasing our line of 240sx stuff now!

Engine harnesses - Ours are built with brand new wire and pins. Loomed in nylon sleeving and ADHESIVE lined heat shrink. We also offer a Mil Spec quick disconnect for the firewall. For most Nissan motors we're integrating the lower harness and trans harness with the engine harness for a better look and easier install. (Note: You connect and disconnect the firewall connector as much as you want, there is no set amount for that)

ALSO Brake line relocation kit, AN fuel line kit with inline fuel filter, One piece clutch line, Brake booster delete with Wilwood master cylinder kit, and more.

Also for those saying stainless braided line doesn't perform the same...I guarantee you it will feel exactly the same if not better than your OEM setup. It is a common thing to hear or think they do not perform as well. We've been using this stuff for years! 9 second drag cars, Redline Time Attack cars, and hundreds upon hundreds of street cars have used our stuff with zero issues, ever. Once we sale more kits to our Nissan customers I'm sure we can get some positive feedback in to reassure everyone.

Thanks!


I can't wait to see everything come out! Whats up with your site though? When will it be back up?

[S14_Kouki]

Got a question. Where do you guys get your wire loom and mil spec connectors from??

[CamryOnBronze]

Wow, I'll totally be in line for that stuff... also curious to know when the site will be back and when the S13 stuff will be available!

I'm working on my fuse box relocation now... where do you guys route the lower engine harness when the fuse box is in the fender area?

http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/246/cimg0838k.jpg

(Still need to fab a bracket and splash shield)

[VOoDOoGTX]

im wanted to know more about the brake booster tuck, Whats the recommended way to do this? i saw a picture of it but not alot of information.

ill be ordering a crazy amount of stuff once chase bays web site is up.

[WangonwWarrior]

im wanted to know more about the brake booster tuck, Whats the recommended way to do this? i saw a picture of it but not alot of information.

ill be ordering a crazy amount of stuff once chase bays web site is up.

It deletes the brake booster and it is just a master cylinder :) I will try to find some pics!

[WangonwWarrior]

Got my motor and radiator in today

http://i746.photobucket.com/albums/xx104/NeedMoreMotorsport/240sx%20parts%20for%20sale/IMG_0198.jpg

Wait where is the radiator?

Oh, there it is


http://i746.photobucket.com/albums/xx104/NeedMoreMotorsport/240sx%20parts%20for%20sale/IMG_0201.jpg

http://i746.photobucket.com/albums/xx104/NeedMoreMotorsport/240sx%20parts%20for%20sale/IMG_0200.jpg


http://i746.photobucket.com/albums/xx104/NeedMoreMotorsport/240sx%20parts%20for%20sale/IMG_0199.jpg

http://i746.photobucket.com/albums/xx104/NeedMoreMotorsport/240sx%20parts%20for%20sale/IMG_0202.jpg

http://i746.photobucket.com/albums/xx104/NeedMoreMotorsport/240sx%20parts%20for%20sale/IMG_0205.jpg

Tucked radiator wut wut

[VOoDOoGTX]

woerrddddddddd

[White Comet]

holy crap, i didnt know that existed

[GSXRJJordan]

Got my motor and radiator in today

http://i746.photobucket.com/albums/xx104/NeedMoreMotorsport/240sx%20parts%20for%20sale/IMG_0198.jpg

Haha, you posted pics in the wire tuck thread with the wiring disconnected/not there. Super tucked bro.

holy crap, i didnt know that existed

You didn't know custom radiators existed? Truth be told most people don't put 'em there because it's smaller than it would be if it were behind the support, but it makes sense for RB25/26 swaps since it'll let him run puller fans.

Summit actually has some "universal" Griffin/etc (read: baller) cores that are S-chassis friendly sizes for around $200... not a bad deal at all, but sometimes the inlet/outlet sizes don't match so you'd have to be creative with hoses.

[White Comet]

sorry for being unclear. i didnt know ones form chase bay existed

[WangonwWarrior]

sorry for posting in wrong section.

[Om1kron]

MY FIRST HATER! :D I did not know it would happen this fast

Please don't bring any gay drama into this thread. It's the wire tuck thread, the engine bay thread is in another place. You don't have a tucked harness on the motor and this thread isn't about what NWP4LIFE is doing with their honda's for eibach.

Tucked radiators are nothing new, I understand you and chase are in kahoots and this is great marketing for you two. But this is not the place to discuss his products if you want another HATER to make a stink to the mods about it.

kthx.

[Broadfield]

Maybe he has the new baller Chase Bays invisible wiring :rolleyes:

[onepuff]

It's Bluetooth

[Fries]

It's Bluetooth
EPICCCCC.

Why the Chasebays hate?

[iwishiwas-all*]

chase, i need you to set me up with that bluetooth engine harness haha. the next step in tucked harnesses.
I am gonna be having chase do some stuff for my car so be on the lookout soon!

[WangonwWarrior]

chase, i need you to set me up with that bluetooth engine harness haha. the next step in tucked harnesses.
I am gonna be having chase do some stuff for my car so be on the lookout soon!

Im getting an ipod charger built into my harness :coold:


sorry for cluttering the thread

[bllabong89]

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs335.ash1/28914_121036154584152_100000333053077_198430_61485 14_n.jpg (http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=198424&id=100000333053077)

Where do you get a bulk connector like this from?

[conrad_s13.5]

computer parts site somewhere would be a good google'r

[GSXRJJordan]

Where do you get a bulk connector like this from?

There are quite a few manufacturers for "bulkhead connectors" (Mil-C-5015 equivalent for the most part), but as with all mil-spec parts, you have to have a deep understanding of the part numbers to make sure the parts you order work together, and work for your application.

I use different specs for each engine, because KA's need less pins than CA's or SR's, which need less pins than RBs, which need less pins than LSx's. I prefer to use one connector (which is made of many pieces) for the upper and lower engine harness, then another smaller one for the front chassis wiring, and finally a Marinco connector for 4ga main power.

If you guys want to tackle your own bulkhead connectors and tucked harnesses, I can certainly use my accounts to get you good deals on the materials... just shoot me a PM with a detailed description of your goal and I can list out a 'kit' of what I'd use and give you some pricing.

[Big_E-Dog]

what bout vacuum lines how many is too many??

got the wireing done just gots a ton of vacuum lines. if i extended them too much couldnt it hurt vacuum stuff??

[GSXRJJordan]

what bout vacuum lines how many is too many??

got the wireing done just gots a ton of vacuum lines. if i extended them too much couldnt it hurt vacuum stuff??

Hopefully anyone tackling a wire tuck and engine bay cleanup will understand which parts of the engine actually need vacuum/boost lines. With the exception of boost controllers/wastegates, most everything (EGR, FPR, etc) can handle a reasonable extension without any adverse effects. Cap off what you don't need, and use new vacuum line so you know there's no leaks.

Getting vacuum to the brake booster while retaining the one way check valve and not looking like ass is generally the toughest part.

[Big_E-Dog]

ok thanks almost done with mine, tucking a VG30 with villager manifold

[Couped_up'd]

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m295/elmo45_2006/Coupe%20Love/DSC03802.jpg

[WangonwWarrior]

http://i746.photobucket.com/albums/xx104/NeedMoreMotorsport/240sx%20parts%20for%20sale/IMG_0209.jpg

[Charlie]

Any word on how much a Chase Bays KADE harness is going to be?

[WangonwWarrior]

I have not gotten my bill yet but I think just the harness is going to be around $550

[ATLspeed]

^^^my god $550 granted that it is quality stuff. Gotta pay the bills to roll with the big dogs

[DALAZ_68]

pay to play...and im willing to put down if the work is worthy...hence why ima troll my ass down to Jordan Inovations once i get time....

[Charlie]

I have not gotten my bill yet but I think just the harness is going to be around $550

That's actually not that bad do you know when he's planning to start selling them?

[thenooblet]

it costs to be the boss...

[xs042lol]

not mine but a cousin's. Pretty neat stuff.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs430.ash1/23805_375243197780_568937780_3766046_7801608_n.jpg
jesus christ thats one sexy s2k

My old civic



My friend Toby's engine bay...I guess he's doing a real tuck/shave sooner or later.

http://images46.fotki.com/v1482/photos/4/47612/3915226/IMG173zilviacopy-vi.jpg
i some day wish to own a coolant reservoir tank that clear and coolant that perfectly green. Ugh, mines rust colored and oily. I have a leak some where but am too broke, inexperienced to find it

[D.Adams]

There are quite a few manufacturers for "bulkhead connectors" (Mil-C-5015 equivalent for the most part), but as with all mil-spec parts, you have to have a deep understanding of the part numbers to make sure the parts you order work together, and work for your application.

I use different specs for each engine, because KA's need less pins than CA's or SR's, which need less pins than RBs, which need less pins than LSx's. I prefer to use one connector (which is made of many pieces) for the upper and lower engine harness, then another smaller one for the front chassis wiring, and finally a Marinco connector for 4ga main power.

If you guys want to tackle your own bulkhead connectors and tucked harnesses, I can certainly use my accounts to get you good deals on the materials... just shoot me a PM with a detailed description of your goal and I can list out a 'kit' of what I'd use and give you some pricing.


Did you ever think of making a pre made harness.

Lets say i want one for a sr what would it run me. Plug and play all i got to do is romove the old and in with the new.

[White Comet]

^ $265 plus shipping iirc

[D.Adams]

^ $265 plus shipping iirc



All i know is if he can make me one with the fire wall connector i will pay for it.

[GSXRJJordan]

pay to play...and im willing to put down if the work is worthy...hence why ima troll my ass down to Jordan Inovations once i get time....

Yup yup. Formula D tested, driver approved!

Did you ever think of making a pre made harness.

Lets say i want one for a sr what would it run me. Plug and play all i got to do is romove the old and in with the new.

Yeah I have, but I'd like to have all new connectors and pins. It's a slow process, but I've collected injectors, CAS, o2 sensor, and a couple others, just need MAF plugs I think. For a brand new, tucked and loomed harness with Mil-spec 200*C wire and flame retardant loom, and a bulkhead connector for the upper and lower harnesses, you'd be around $1000.

^ $265 plus shipping iirc

Haha, I charge more than that just for the bulkhead connector, without the labor to pin it.

[D.Adams]

Yeah I have, but I'd like to have all new connectors and pins. It's a slow process, but I've collected injectors, CAS, o2 sensor, and a couple others, just need MAF plugs I think. For a brand new, tucked and loomed harness with Mil-spec 200*C wire and flame retardant loom, and a bulkhead connector for the upper and lower harnesses, you'd be around $1000


one day i will have you do it. i love your work and i know its done rite

[MavericStephenc]

^^FRESH^^

msglgnth

[White Comet]

Haha, I charge more than that just for the bulkhead connector, without the labor to pin it.

im not talking about what you and chase do, i'm just saying for an oe style plug and play harness from the s13 or s14 chassis to an sr or rb harness etc

[aaronbaird]

heres mine... tucked the fuseboxes and most of the engine harness. the only wiring is at the back of the motor where it goes into the firewall.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e207/ab37013/DSCN0645.jpg?t=1277608033

[Om1kron]

im not talking about what you and chase do, i'm just saying for an oe style plug and play harness from the s13 or s14 chassis to an sr or rb harness etc

Why bother with that when wiring specialties has em ready to order? seems pointless to go that route with jeff or chase. Their specialties are custom tucked harnesses instead of oem drop ins. Which eliminate useless shit and are more directed towards what you need and actually use.

[Gnnr]

I agree with Om1kron, go look at how many times people say they regret trying to do the wiring on their own or hacking it up.

http://zilvia.net/f/chat/269371-what-do-you-wish-you-didn-t-do-your-240-a.html

If you can get it done for $500 for the whole thing is a great price IMO. If they start to streamline this and put it out on the market I'd go that route.

I would really love to eliminate the wiring mess that is under the hood, and the previous owner did some janky job around the fusebox, ugh. :rolleyes:

[WangonwWarrior]

I agree with Om1kron, go look at how many times people say they regret trying to do the wiring on their own or hacking it up.

http://zilvia.net/f/chat/269371-what-do-you-wish-you-didn-t-do-your-240-a.html

If you can get it done for $500 for the whole thing is a great price IMO. If they start to streamline this and put it out on the market I'd go that route.

I would really love to eliminate the wiring mess that is under the hood, and the previous owner did some janky job around the fusebox, ugh. :rolleyes:


Yeah I am one of those people who fails at wiring and seems like every 240 I get has a hacked harness and for some reason even the body harness was hacked on the last one :rl:

I gave up on wiring then I found out chasebays was right down the street so I dropped off all my problems there ha. Cant wait til I get her back

[MavericStephenc]

Yeah I am one of those people who fails at wiring and seems like every 240 I get has a hacked harness and for some reason even the body harness was hacked on the last one :rl:



Oh how you and I live the same life. :bow:

[Om1kron]

wiring is like building a computer, only it's a doll house sized computer case.

the processor chip is the ecu, engine the hard drive, lights = leds, everything else is up to you what you want to keep or remove.

There is a ton of stuff I could've removed but I couldn't find what it was in the FSM. They don't even have schematics for the oem wiring for the egr system which is bundled with your tail light wiring.

can't wait to go to stage 3 and just remove all excess from my cars life.

[White Comet]

Why bother with that when wiring specialties has em ready to order? seems pointless to go that route with jeff or chase. Their specialties are custom tucked harnesses instead of oem drop ins. Which eliminate useless shit and are more directed towards what you need and actually use.thats who i'm referring to. wiring specialties is $265 for an sr into s13 for example

[bshotts]

Couldn't be happier with the quality/reliability of my Wiring Specialties S13SR to S14 harness. Their customer service (basically same-hour response time directly from Yuri) is out of this world, and their start-up guarantee was 100% correct. OEM-style harnessing and appearance and reliability is hard to beat especially for their pricing...
http://image83.webshots.com/83/1/46/82/2503146820101047631dbXGNj_ph.jpg

[scottie]

wiring is like building a computer, only it's a doll house sized computer case.

the processor chip is the ecu, engine the hard drive, lights = leds, everything else is up to you what you want to keep or remove.

There is a ton of stuff I could've removed but I couldn't find what it was in the FSM. They don't even have schematics for the oem wiring for the egr system which is bundled with your tail light wiring.

can't wait to go to stage 3 and just remove all excess from my cars life.


I felt the same as you. That is why I now have a full painless chassis harness which I will be using to replace the oem Nissan since I've gotten rid of all the bs stuff. Now it's just the essentials with power windows. I was in shock about how cluttered the Nissan harness is.

[s13coupe1988]

where can i buy that wrap from can someone give me a link... thanks
Chasebays CM1 wiring harness

http://i401.photobucket.com/albums/pp91/Wanganwarrior/Nissans/IMG_0052.jpg

Chasebays brake booster delete kit

http://i401.photobucket.com/albums/pp91/Wanganwarrior/Nissans/IMG_1107.jpg

http://i401.photobucket.com/albums/pp91/Wanganwarrior/Nissans/IMG_1108.jpg

Chase bays ka24de harness in development

http://i401.photobucket.com/albums/pp91/Wanganwarrior/Nissans/IMG_0050.jpg











Cant wait for it to look like this

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs335.ash1/28914_121036154584152_100000333053077_198430_61485 14_n.jpg (http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=198424&id=100000333053077)

[PeaceOnesxWai]

where can i buy that wrap from can someone give me a link... thanks

Manufacturer is called TechFlex

https://www.wirecare.com/land_SleevingMain.asp

[Johny5]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v338/kidnrg/new%20batch/SDC10887.jpg

not really as good as all you guys and stuff but i do all of my own work, pretty stoked on it

[ManoNegra]

heres mine... tucked the fuseboxes and most of the engine harness. the only wiring is at the back of the motor where it goes into the firewall.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e207/ab37013/DSCN0645.jpg?t=1277608033

Friend sent me this:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3596/3765721861_8fd9be6e76_b.jpg

Need Tylenol now...

[Matej]

It somewhat defeats the goal of tucking an engine bay if one paints it a color scheme that makes it seem busier than it looked stock. I am no good at working on cars, so I would need a map to find the engine in there.

[Chase Bays]

Friend sent me this:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3596/3765721861_8fd9be6e76_b.jpg

Need Tylenol now...

Familiar!

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs122.snc4/36442_1334075917567_1401128426_30896312_1511391_n. jpg

;)

We will have a lot of pictures and good news for everyone later on this week. Releasing all of our Nissan stuff, ready to order.

[dopplganger1]

what size do you want for the wire sleeving and how many feet of each size? for an sr?

[bllabong89]

I think that honda bay looks sick...I love graffiti tho. It gives it personality like the white lambo that was graffiti'd with a black sharpy.

http://www.designer-daily.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/09/g_0011_sharpie-lamborghini.jpg

Im not gonna post a pic since its not a tucked engine bay but its a mean ass lambo.

I love your harness's tho. Its so clean and simple and I can't wait to see the nissan stuff

[dread]

This is mine before, looks a little different now but can't post pics until the build is finished.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b172/dread839/deadlydaisybuild/IMAG0058.jpg

[s15specR]

Not a full tuck, did mines on the car, still has A/C and power steering etc.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii319/tripleJs15/Car/engine2_web.jpg

[sickrbs14]

that chase bay shit looks quality but there web sites half retarded and i dont understand what they got for nissans

[florante rea]

i was talking to mike and chase and they told me they got mil-spec ka/ sr harness, coolant resevoir,p/s braided lines,tucked in radiators, tuck brake lines and i think brake booster delete.

[jiggs]

and where can i view those products? sounds awesome

[Om1kron]

the internet

[stickman09]

Website is being revamped! Officially introducing the Nissan products at IA Nashville coming up next weekend!

Caleb @ Chase Bays

[nopwrsldr180]

what is the pedal feel like without the booster and the new master cyl?

[GenPac]

what is the pedal feel like without the booster and the new master cyl?

OT, but...

Right. I was just thinking this. Essentially, your converting to manual brakes? How do you account for pedal ratio? How are you sizing the bore, when you do not know what brakes (piston surface area) your customers are running?
Pedal feel from power to manual is very different, though it is easier to modulate braking on the cusp of locking-up with a manual setup. This of course, is just my opinion based on my experiences with manual vs. power assist brakes.

[Om1kron]

what is the pedal feel like without the booster and the new master cyl?

Please keep this thread on topic or I will have a mod clear out the posts.

[anton1o]

that chase bay shit looks quality but there web sites half retarded and i dont understand what they got for nissans

Agree'd i think they expect us to know what CM1 or CM2 means or even Mill Spec..

I even google'd around to try and find some info, yet couldnt find any proper sources when punching in "chasebays + sr20'

[AeroDesigns]

Chase Bays is done with their KA Harness!

Post em up chase!!

[R33E8]

Agree'd i think they expect us to know what CM1 or CM2 means or even Mill Spec..

I even google'd around to try and find some info, yet couldnt find any proper sources when punching in "chasebays + sr20'

I think they just say mil-spec because they use a mil-spec circular connector for the firewall.. not because they are actually built to mil-spec standards..

[ManoNegra]

I think they just say mil-spec because they use a mil-spec circular connector for the firewall.. not because they are actually built to mil-spec standards..

mil-spec is not a 'style' or a 'variant'.
A product or procedure is mil-spec-xxxx because is meets the military criteria
defined in a standard.
And btw, there are a lot of military standards - some for goods, some finishes, some for procedures, etc, etc.
Technically for an item or process to be Mil-Spec it should carry certification issued by a government/military/aerospace, etc accredited supplier.

But such terms are now used as no more than marketing catch phrases.
Similar to the "Aerospace grade aluminum" description you see used in many products.
I doubt any of these vendors have material mill certs to provide upon request.

[Envy2343]

need some more pics since this is a pic thread guys thanks and nice sr!

[GSXRJJordan]

More pics soon guys, working on a RB26 Datsun 260z this last week with full tucked/loomed chassis and engine harnesses. Awesome stuff.


I doubt any of these vendors have material mill certs to provide upon request.

Ahem.

I was a Aircraft Electronics Tech in the Navy, and while you did make some good points (the most important being that "mil-spec" just means a product is made to a specification, doesn't make it magically good, etc) I can unequivocally describe the specs and produce certs where applicable (wire, connectors) for the products I use.

The wire I use most commonly is Mil-W-22759/16-xx-x in 20, 16, 12 and 6 gauge from a couple of actual military suppliers, and the bulkhead connectors I like to use are Amphenol 97-series, conforming to Mil-C-5015 but extending through Amphenol's own specs (much more detailed, these connectors are rad).

Your argument had some credence however as I believe I am the exception rather than the rule in this niche industry (military as well as civilian education, actual experience, racing sponsorships, etc).

[Slo_240sx]

^ Thank you.

I am a Communications and Electronics Tech in the Marine Corps (ground side of Avionics). Everything Jordan is saying is 100% correct. Mil-spec is NOT a style or type but rather built to certain specification. "Mil-spec" has throughly been tested and certified to be able to use in military applications and the military supplier certified to provide these parts to the Gov't. Just because it says "Mil-Spec" does not mean its actually used by the military. Mostly anything "Mil-Spec" now in this industry is just a catch phrase.

When ordering parts, attention to detail is paramount. Usually you will order by NSN (National Stock Number) a 13 digit number in the form of xxxx-xx-xxx-xxxx. But in some instances you will order by p/n which a part can totally change just by a suffix at the end. Some cases will have the same NSN and a variation of P/n's.

I like the Amphenol 97-series BH connectors, I got to get a peek at some from the wing units, then realized I had the same connectors at my shop :) almost anything comm related in a pelican case, cape set, or UPS power supply has them. I have a ton of tactically aquired BH connectors... waiting to go in my S13 when I get back stateside from this hell hole.

[bb4_96]

^tactically acquired lol.

Amphenol is the shit. Everything I've ever used of theirs is amazing to work with. But in aerospace electronics everything has to work flawlessly so it makes sense. As to MIL spec items, Some of the parts/components we put on the planes look a little shabby to me sometimes albiet still quite functional. Not so much on the spark chaser side but hydraulics stuff can be so so. Thats my experience from Dod Suppliers and end user.

[Slo_240sx]

Amphenol is used on almost everything I work with. Blue Force Trackers, Cape Sets, tactical switches... Tactically Acquired is a term used alot in the Marine Corps haha. I agree with you on "shabby". Though, it may contradict our previous post, parts we get in may look cheap. Mil Spec and "contract to the lowest bidder" may not seem to go hand in hand, but sometimes it does.

Please dont go buying the cheapest "Mil Spec" connectors you can find. Like Jordan said, make sure it conforms to Mil C 5015. I have heard of horror stories of connectors that leaked water in past non existent seals and shorted out a whole electrical system. The last thing anyone ones needs is a fried ECU or even worse, a fire.

[gsr-boost-dc]

So when is the release of all the chasebays goodies???

[CamryOnBronze]

I can finally post in here now that the car runs. Super mild fuse box tuck, still some things to work out:

http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/2521/img0146ei.jpg

[nathanong87]

looks great! ^

[ManoNegra]

Ahem.

I was a Aircraft Electronics Tech in the Navy, and while you did make some good points (the most important being that "mil-spec" just means a product is made to a specification, doesn't make it magically good, etc) I can unequivocally describe the specs and produce certs where applicable (wire, connectors) for the products I use.

The wire I use most commonly is Mil-W-22759/16-xx-x in 20, 16, 12 and 6 gauge from a couple of actual military suppliers, and the bulkhead connectors I like to use are Amphenol 97-series, conforming to Mil-C-5015 but extending through Amphenol's own specs (much more detailed, these connectors are rad).

Your argument had some credence however as I believe I am the exception rather than the rule in this niche industry (military as well as civilian education, actual experience, racing sponsorships, etc).

just saw this
I think we're on the same page here
and you're right, you're probably the exception

the shop I work at is AS9100 certified
that means we're qualified to work for the Aerospace Industry and get audited once a year to keep our certification current
I inspect the parts we make and maintain the quality system
and while we don't necessarily deal with mil-spec electronics as a whole
I am very familiar with record retention and traceability requirements for the government
so if Boeing needs fasteners certs from a part we made within the last 20 years, it's on file

[R33E8]

just saw this
I think we're on the same page here
and you're right, you're probably the exception

the shop I work at is AS9100 certified
that means we're qualified to work for the Aerospace Industry and get audited once a year to keep our certification current
I inspect the parts we make and maintain the quality system
and while we don't necessarily deal with mil-spec electronics as a whole
I am very familiar with record retention and traceability requirements for the government
so if Boeing needs fasteners certs from a part we made within the last 20 years, it's on file

Yeah, the place I work at has ISO 9001:2000 + AS9100B certification.. I think we get audited twice a year.. We deal with assembling mil-spec harnesses and connectors..

Also, just using Mil-spec hardware isn't good enough.. It also has to be built and assembled properly.. Kinda like the difference between welding so it holds and an actual good weld..

[wh0aitznic0]

Haha.

http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/zz55/polandlinda/IMG_5486.jpg
http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/zz55/polandlinda/IMG_5487.jpg

[D1S13]

Haha.


http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/zz55/polandlinda/IMG_5487.jpg

thats funny!

[90white240]

I can finally post in here now that the car runs. Super mild fuse box tuck, still some things to work out:

http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/2521/img0146ei.jpg

How did you end up running your wires to your fuse boxes, and how did you mount your fuse boxes?

[cnichols]

http://www.streetelite.net/backup/pics/570/Picture022_small.jpg

Still need to do the brake lines/booster delete/MC relocate and shave the bay. And a cooling panel for sure.

[GSXRJJordan]

Yeah, the place I work at has ISO 9001:2000 + AS9100B certification.. I think we get audited twice a year.. We deal with assembling mil-spec harnesses and connectors..

Also, just using Mil-spec hardware isn't good enough.. It also has to be built and assembled properly.. Kinda like the difference between welding so it holds and an actual good weld..

I've had spotty luck with Tyco/AMP connectors over the years, and would never trust off-the-shelf bulkhead connectors like some hot rod shops are starting to carry. I've always had excellent results with the Amphenol 97-series and can find what I need almost every time I order them up - there's certainly something to be said for good national availability!

Just used another set in Ryan Kado's Formula D car for next season - size 23, 37 16ga pins for the upper and transmission harness and a size 18, 8-pin with 7 16ga pins and 1 12ga for the front chassis and starter solenoid. Because he wanted Olive Drab I was able to get all 4 connectors (2 pairs) as well as strain reliefs and moisture grommets sent up next-day for cheaaaaaaaaaaap.

People have been asking me to stock supplies for those wanting to try this themselves, and I'm going to look into providing kits with all new pins/connectors for the OEM harness as well as wire, loom, and adhesive heat shrink with an option for bulkhead connectors. I see a lot of people botching this, but if that's what the market wants, I can help out.

[Corbic]

http://www.streetelite.net/pics/570/Picture022_small.jpg

Still need to do the brake lines/booster delete/MC relocate and shave the bay. And a cooling panel for sure.

Wow! Looks fantastic!

[TurboSE]

RB26 with the Syko kit, engine's not in yet...enough room to tuck the brake lines under the lip on the firewall?

[GSXRJJordan]

RB26 with the Syko kit, engine's not in yet...enough room to tuck the brake lines under the lip on the firewall?

Maybe, but they'll probably touch the head and that brings them mighty close to the exhaust manifold/elbow. I'd rather use bulkhead fittings and go behind the firewall.

[A'PEXi]

Not a full tuck, did mines on the car, still has A/C and power steering etc.

very nice, anymore pics?

should remove the hose going to the washer jets since the washer bottle is gone :D

mine, fairly standard...
http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/7000/77236612.jpg

[gsr-boost-dc]

So when is the release of all the chasebays goodies???

[TurboSE]

Maybe, but they'll probably touch the head and that brings them mighty close to the exhaust manifold/elbow. I'd rather use bulkhead fittings and go behind the firewall.


Good info, I'm also running a head drain so this is prolly out for me. I already bent new lines to clean up the OEM routing...I think I'll just stick with that, thanks a lot!

Great work on all your cars in this thread BTW, top notch.

[WangonwWarrior]

RB26 with the Syko kit, engine's not in yet...enough room to tuck the brake lines under the lip on the firewall?


You only need 3 lines. 2 brake/ 1clutch, you should be able too. If not round down by the trans, I even thought about routing across the bottom of the crossmember:D

[blackej7]

not done yet, but most of the wiring is in.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4154/4836590968_8e9a90ffce_b.jpg

[Envy2343]

Damn i need to step up my wire tucking anyone else to inspire people for new ideas

[Zach-sr]

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w165/boodoot259/123.jpg
Crappy cell picture...

[Matej]

Tinkering with my car. Moved the fuel filter behind the manifold.

http://www.matejblahut.com/gallery/d/2086-1/petrolroute.jpg

[Broadfield]

Finally finished my tuck last month. I had everything tucked(fuse boxes, front harnesses, injector harness etc.), but I never actually relocated the entry point for the main harness into the bay. I don't know why I waited so long, it was really easy. Now I desperately need to fill and shave the bay, then paint it body color this winter.

http://images17.fotki.com/v313/photos/4/47612/3915226/IMG_7540-vi.jpg

http://images112.fotki.com/v590/photos/4/47612/3915226/IMG_7608-vi.jpg

http://images40.fotki.com/v776/photos/4/47612/3915226/IMG_7474-vi.jpg

http://images17.fotki.com/v313/photos/4/47612/3915226/IMG_7497-vi.jpg

I'll have to heavily consider a brake line tuck at that time:

http://images47.fotki.com/v1499/photos/4/47612/3915226/IMG_7573-vi.jpg

[allturbotim]

not bad........

[shanelach]

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4128/4837218225_a568af3881.jpg

I have been working on this lately. Still needs a lot of work, but that is where I am at.

[SR20Driftking4lyf]

broadfield......where did you get the brake line clips? I have been having a hell of a time locating some. I tried the dealer, napa, and a few local collision repair places and no luck yet.

[Broadfield]

broadfield......where did you get the brake line clips? I have been having a hell of a time locating some. I tried the dealer, napa, and a few local collision repair places and no luck yet.

These are the white ones I got. I searched and found them available from an S14

CLAMP - 240SX (S14) 1995-1998 :: Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com (http://www.courtesyparts.com/46289c-clamp-240sx-s14-1995-1998-p-137873.html)

[Matej]

Finished up my power steering setup.
http://www.matejblahut.com/gallery/d/2120-1/steeringpower.jpg

[Chase Bays]

Link Deleted

First released product, we are done with testing. Works flawlessly. For S13 and S14

Next up is our Fuel lines, Tuck radiator with hoses, and AN Power Steering kit.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4109/4949458908_282b4f4d19_z.jpg

[89JDMRB20]

This thread is A1...!! Hopefully my Rb20 swap will come out like these...

[GSXRJJordan]

Lol the lines aren't tucked at all, I think it looks worse than stock. Without a booster, I'm sure that with any bore size worth using, it functions worse that stock as well. Not really sold on that.

[ThatGuy]

ChaseBays, you are not an Advertiser nor a Vendor on Zilvia.net.

Therefore, you may not attempt to utilize Zilvia.net for free advertisement.

[Chase Bays]

Okay, I'll talk to a mod about becoming one.

[Agamemnon]

Link Deleted

First released product, we are done with testing. Works flawlessly. For S13 and S14

Next up is our Fuel lines, Tuck radiator with hoses, and AN Power Steering kit.

http://www.chasebaysonline.com/products/image/cache/data/CB%20brake/150972839%20(2)-800x800.jpg

That looks awful.

[Chase Bays]

Lol the lines aren't tucked at all, I think it looks worse than stock. Without a booster, I'm sure that with any bore size worth using, it functions worse that stock as well. Not really sold on that.

Sure they are, they run underneath the motor instead of the top of the engine bay. The kit was made with functionality, easy install, as well as aesthetics. This is also perfect for someone who has interference or heat issues with a larger turbo setup. Although a common misconception...it brakes the same amount of time. We did a LOT of testing. Our product is on quite a few road race cars. I can post the reviews on our site, nothing negative. A brake booster is a master cylinder setup used to reduce the amount of pedal pressure needed for braking. Meaning, leg pressure needed. That changes for sure, but not by much. Out of the 200+ we have sold, everyone loves it after the initial drive.

PM me your address, I will send you one to try. If you don't like it, send it back. (I feel like a commercial haha)

Also, how bout this guys. Give me your feedback on how to make it better if you think it looks bad.

[Dirty Habit]

Jesus. What I would have to do for my z's engine bay to look that clean...

[Chase Bays]

That looks awful.

Haha I know, we're painting it this week.

[Om1kron]

I guess the main problem with that design other than the asthetics and I won't get into braking performance aspects because people who have done this mod build show cars, I have yet to read anyone who drives a track vehicle about how this stands up to constant braking abuse.

But if a turbo and downpipe are next to those lines and you're now putting those lines closer to such, wouldn't that cause the brake fluid to boil twice as fast?

[iwknowledge]

Sure they are, they run underneath the motor instead of the top of the engine bay. The kit was made with functionality, easy install, as well as aesthetics. This is also perfect for someone who has interference or heat issues with a larger turbo setup. Although a common misconception...it brakes the same amount of time. We did a LOT of testing. Our product is on quite a few road race cars. I can post the reviews on our site, nothing negative. A brake booster is a master cylinder setup used to reduce the amount of pedal pressure needed for braking. Meaning, leg pressure needed. That changes for sure, but not by much. Out of the 200+ we have sold, everyone loves it after the initial drive.

PM me your address, I will send you one to try. If you don't like it, send it back. (I feel like a commercial haha)

Also, how bout this guys. Give me your feedback on how to make it better if you think it looks bad.


I say try it and see if you like it.. Ive always been a "dont knock it until you try it person" but if he is gonna send you one for free... why not?!

[Agamemnon]

Haha I know, we're painting it this week.

No no, you misunderstand. The brake setup looks like poopoo. It just smacks of lazy.

Why not develop an underdash system. Or some hardlines that run underneath the master cylinder and into the firewall.

[GSXRJJordan]

If you're trying to convince people that power-assisted brakes feel the same as manual brakes, you either have a super long stroke, not a big enough master to brake like stock, or both. Try unplugging (and capping off) the 3/8" vacuum line that goes to the booster and driving around, it certainly varies the braking feel at all times, not just at the beginning of engagement.

I applaud your offer to let people try them, but don't see that actually happening. You mention road race cars, and say you've sold 200 of them, but the only pic you have is of a car with no motor?

Just saying. This is the interwebz, and pics/reputation is all you have.

No no, you misunderstand. The brake setup looks like poopoo. It just smacks of lazy.

Why not develop an underdash system. Or some hardlines that run underneath the master cylinder and into the firewall.

I agree, hardlines into the wiper tray would be preferable.

[ILoveMyRHS13]

Link Deleted

First released product, we are done with testing. Works flawlessly. For S13 and S14

Next up is our Fuel lines, Tuck radiator with hoses, and AN Power Steering kit.

http://www.chasebaysonline.com/products/image/cache/data/CB%20brake/150972839%20(2)-800x800.jpg
Wow Chase Bays has gone to absolute shit.

[Hashiriya415]

Biggest problem is safety. Single piston, why? 1 small leak or problem in the brake circuit will result in no brakes. And there is not even a switch to indicate when fluid is low.

[Om1kron]

If you're trying to convince people that power-assisted brakes feel the same as manual brakes, you either have a super long stroke, not a big enough master to brake like stock, or both. Try unplugging (and capping off) the 3/8" vacuum line that goes to the booster and driving around, it certainly varies the braking feel at all times, not just at the beginning of engagement.

I applaud your offer to let people try them, but don't see that actually happening. You mention road race cars, and say you've sold 200 of them, but the only pic you have is of a car with no motor?

You don't troll honda boards, I will admit a lot of these things have sold and quite a few people had to make quite a few adjustments to driving with them. And a few people I believe have track tested them on honda's.

But honda's n/a or turbo don't produce the heat a 240sx does near it's brake master cylinder because of the engine orientation. So the review of how this works on a honda is irrelevant.

I want to know how having a 300 degree oven next to those lines work granted this isn't a mod someone who tracks their car would do for performance. Some people would consider it if it gave them more room for turbo/manifold clearance.

I agree, hardlines into the wiper tray would be preferable.

He is trying to make a fire and forget online store purchase, regardless of what anyone thinks looks cleaner, nobody is going to buy a/n fittings and bend hardlines in their wiper tray unless they have no use for their wipers. And there isn't much room behind the dash to play with hardlines w/o being able quickly remove the dash to diagnose braking issues.

People who want to do extreme tucks have to sacrifice creature comforts in what makes cars a street car. Wiring harness tucks do not affect the functionality of the cars themselves.

when you start removing heater cores, and windshield wipers... your car becomes a sun only vehicle, and unless you're trying to win trophies with your car the mods serve no purpose what so ever.

[PerilousActs]

I'm with Jordan, I feel hardlines in the wiper tray will be the only way a made to order kit can be done cleanly. The problem is, can it be done and retain the wiper setup and still have a clean exit from the tray? Into the firewall hardlines + stainless lines behind the firewall may be able to be pulled off as well if one can locate good exit holes and wants to run that much braided line.

I'm going all hardlines/stainless AN behind the firewall. I'll have pics up eventually.

Here's another guy who did one with lots of great info:
http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/236014-brake-clutch-tuck-s14.html

[shiftdrift]

Wow Chase Bays has gone to absolute shit.
+1, did they cut a hole in the fender well? haha.

[20 til 3]

clean enough?... btw this is how you properly do the powersteering because it is gravity feed
http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e363/drfttruk/photoshoot056.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k165/sddrift/midwest%20muthafuckas/20.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k165/sddrift/midwest%20muthafuckas/18.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k165/sddrift/midwest%20muthafuckas/19.jpg


horrible v-mount i know, car has been sold and i believe someone on here owns it now

[Homer_Simpson]

^^How did you mount your power-steering reservoir? I'm only asking because I'm away from my car and is unsure if I can mod the stock mounting bracket.

Very nice setup BTW.

[nathanong87]

that v mount is super cool because it would appear the stock radiator support is intact! (cut a lil)

[OBEEWON]

Im all about stock rad suppourt.

[nathanong87]

Im all about stock rad suppourt.

i'm all about stock cars!

[Chase Bays]

Let me try some different line set ups this weekend, I appreciate the honesty from you guys and I think we can definitely make a better setup. We were going for a simple install to not remove the dash. So maybe we will make 2 different setups. We're gonna bend up some hard line too. The problem is, mass producing the hard line isn't easy...but that doesn't stop us.

This is nothing new to us, and we don't just make something and hope it works. We've been testing this on Nissan's for 3 months. From heavy stop and go traffic to 100mph into a turn to running 10.1's and stopping the car. Your stock master cylinder and lines are even closer to the heat of your exhaust. These stainless braided lines have a higher heat resistance to hard line by far. Someone said 300 degree oven, our line has a broad temperature range of -100F to 500F. Also its NOT the same as just unplugging your booster and capping it off. There is still a booster not doing what its intended to do between the pedal and master cylinder if you do that.

We've done the dirty work on these, and we know they work. I am considering making a Vimeo/YouTube video showing some of our testing.

[Chase Bays]

Something we came up with. Inside the car it will split to each fender well, and the Wilwood prop valve location for the rear brakes will be customizable (behind dash, in center console, in glovebox, etc.)

Also sprayed the bay

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4109/4949458908_282b4f4d19_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4151/4948868345_edbb30a6e9_z.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4126/4949457476_03cf898d04_z.jpg

[kyles1988]

much more clean..nice!

[Broadfield]

Something we came up with. Inside the car it will split to each fender well, and the Wilwood prop valve location for the rear brakes will be customizable (behind dash, in center console, in glovebox, etc.)


Very nice! I can't wait to get my hands on the new setup.

Toby

[bboyoracle]

Here's my wire tuck:

http://www.mischief.tv/photopost/data/690/DSC_0557.jpg

A closer picture:

http://www.canibeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/2.jpg

Fusebox location:

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b381/bboyoracle/Car%20painted/IMG_8082.jpg

Glad to see Chase is on the board. I am currently running his brake line relocation kit along with his clutch line. Its bolt on and utilizes whats already there so no drilling or fabrication needed. :bigok:

[s14tan]

OMG Who did that valve cover!! I must know.. NOW!!

[PerilousActs]

http://www.canibeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/2.jpg
comes from dippedparts.com

[bboyoracle]

http://www.canibeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/2.jpg
comes from dippedparts.com

Yep! Its a titanium burnt finish. Here's a better picture:
http://dippedparts.com/gallery/uploads/sr20titaniumburntfinish.jpg

[C. Anderson]

Don't mind the double coupler, that was temporary because of the tubs going forward so far. This motor is no longer in the car.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m53/95silvia06/4.jpg

[s14tan]

http://www.canibeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/2.jpg
comes from dippedparts.com

Thank you!
:kiss:

[bllabong89]

What do most for your tubs? Trailer fenders or do it your self? The new chase bay kit looks sick...props

[Matej]

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4109/4949458908_282b4f4d19_b.jpg
It is neat to see how you took harsh criticism in stride and redeemed yourselves. Cheers, Chase Bays.

[PerilousActs]

Yeah, definitely much better. Always good to see people take criticism properly.

Exactly what I'm doing with mine.

[dub40sx]

Looks soooo clean but I need to know how this setup would feel with Z32 brakes!

[BoostSlideWayz]

Yep! Its a titanium burnt finish. Here's a better picture:
http://dippedparts.com/gallery/uploads/sr20titaniumburntfinish.jpg

omg ive been ubsessed with that finish.. id have like... alot of my cars bay detailed with that finish. i needa send some parts to that place.

[gsr-boost-dc]

My Current ScottBays Integra tuck.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4089/4969531230_8a5772b92a.jpg

I WILL SOON HAVE A LOCAL SHOP (TSI in El Paso, TX), wire tuck MY S13 and I WILL POST UPDATES HERE!!

I like all the New ChaseBays products!

[fender-startocaster]

im down for chase bay :)

videos of testing would be great btw!!

[living4surf]

To have the valve cover done by dipped partsits $550

[Stratokat]

http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w165/boodoot259/123.jpg
Crappy cell picture...

http://facethejury.com/images/smileys/facepalm.gifhttp://facethejury.com/images/smileys/facepalm.gifhttp://facethejury.com/images/smileys/facepalm.gif

are you proud of this monstrosity?

[Gription]

My hatch, which I am now selling.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/strikebackbmx/hatch%20build/IMG_5098.jpg

I've been wanting to do a milspec connector for my new build but I'm not sure what exactly I will need. Do you have to use larger pins for 4g and 0g wires or are the all the same? I have my engine and lower engine harness combined into one to make things simpler. What is a good number of pins to get with one of these puppies? I think the biggest I've seen them is like a 48 pin.

[Zach-sr]

are you proud of this monstrosity?

What bothers you so much about it?

[Chase Bays]

thanks dudes!

pending KA24 harness

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4125/5018536754_8f71e0cec5_z.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4109/5018535830_81d7b43a94_z.jpg

[GSXRJJordan]

My hatch, which I am now selling.

I've been wanting to do a milspec connector for my new build but I'm not sure what exactly I will need. Do you have to use larger pins for 4g and 0g wires or are the all the same? I have my engine and lower engine harness combined into one to make things simpler. What is a good number of pins to get with one of these puppies? I think the biggest I've seen them is like a 48 pin.

For the upper and lower engine harnesses (minus the power wires) a 37-pin connector (a very common connector count) works out, barely. In a shell size 23 (also very common), these are fairly inexpensive. These are what I use on all my SR and KA engine harnesses with bulkhead fittings.

For passing main power through the firewall, I like Marinco twist-to-lock connectors (although you can also get Mil-spec circular connectors with 4ga pins, but they're billet pins and very expensive). They're used extensively in the entertainment industry, as well as the marine industry. You can go 4ga or 1/0ga, and they're less than $50 I believe for the bulkhead connnector and the fitting that goes on the line.

[Touge_Monster]

thanks dudes!

pending KA24 harness


Cool! Cant wait to see the finished product

[ALEXTHESUS*PECT]

My hatch, which I am now selling.
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/strikebackbmx/hatch%20build/IMG_5098.jpg

I've been wanting to do a milspec connector for my new build but I'm not sure what exactly I will need. Do you have to use larger pins for 4g and 0g wires or are the all the same? I have my engine and lower engine harness combined into one to make things simpler. What is a good number of pins to get with one of these puppies? I think the biggest I've seen them is like a 48 pin.

For the upper and lower engine harnesses (minus the power wires) a 37-pin connector (a very common connector count) works out, barely. In a shell size 23 (also very common), these are fairly inexpensive. These are what I use on all my SR and KA engine harnesses with bulkhead fittings.

For passing main power through the firewall, I like Marinco twist-to-lock connectors (although you can also get Mil-spec circular connectors with 4ga pins, but they're billet pins and very expensive). They're used extensively in the entertainment industry, as well as the marine industry. You can go 4ga or 1/0ga, and they're less than $50 I believe for the bulkhead connnector and the fitting that goes on the line.

yoy fly him out and have him do it for you like half of formula d does!:bigok:

[29psiHybrid]

My old S13 coupe. VG30dett singled, shaved bay, smoothed fender tubs, hidden brake setup, etc... Circa 2005

http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/9608/s13one.jpg


And with SR in it, how I sold it. :cry:

http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/5200/s13two.jpg

[PerilousActs]

^ So you're the guy who owns that. Posted a pic of it earlier in this thread.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4125/5018536754_8f71e0cec5_z.jpg
Chase, there's an old air cooled vdub trick for hiding the wires that go into the distributor. Unfortunately I lost the link to it. It may be worth looking into if you wanna make it even more tucked. Just a thought.

[Om1kron]

cant link images from myspace.

[29psiHybrid]

^ So you're the guy who owns that. Posted a pic of it earlier in this thread.


Well, used to own it. Sold it to a guy in Georgia and missed it ever since. Where's the pic you posted of it? I never seen him post any pics after he bought it other than the ones I took of it.


cant link images from myspace.

Fixed

[Om1kron]

ah I remember that car, I was trying to get the single wiper kit that you had on it but nobody can get their hands on it anymore. Or at least I think it was that car with the single wiper setup.