school me on oil cooler setups.

[LongGrain]

alright well my SR mysteriously started popping off oil filters, so of course my motor pumped all of its oil out and ran dry and spun a bearing.

so while it is down for the rebuild i want to do a custom oil filter relocation and cooler setup just to ensure i dont have this problem again (along with an oil pressure gauge of course)

i'm kind of hazy as to how the whole setup works. so i have some questions

with a relocation does the flow go: engine -> oil filter -> oil cooler -> engine?

and if that is the case, can i use a greddy relocation kit, and just run custom return lines to route to the cooler and back to the greddy oil block?

i plan on using an earls 16 row cooler and all earls lines and fittings. as far as the oil block and the relocation block, i am unsure.

any help is greatly appreciated, i searched but didnt find much help

[Dousan_PG]

greddy kit sucks. throw that stuff in the trash. had it before. quality on that one u have is questionable at best
make ur own

summitracing u can get all the parts cheap

for the engine block unit thng, phase2 sells that circuit sports one, works great.
-10 all around imo

[LongGrain]

alright so greddy is a no go.

circuit sports looks to be a tomei knockoff and uses -8 fittings, are you running one of these? changing the fittings to -10 shouldnt be hard, but would i be better off with a tomei block?

what do i use for the filter block? i havent seen those sold separately, only in relocation kits.

[Dousan_PG]

tomei block is -10
i have one.

get a earls oil filter relocator guy
its cheap
or u can do the INLINE earls oil filter. seems pretty cool
keeps your whole setup SUPER CLEAN


get a nce cooler, setrab or earls imo

filter inline:
http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/index.php?shop=Accessories&dept=Oil!_Filter

filter block
#2178
http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/index.php?shop=Accessories&dept=Oil!_filter!_Adapter

and line -10 at least 10 ft is adequate
depending where u mount it
2 -10 straight (off tomei/circuit sports blocks)
next 4 depend on where u mount your cooler and the adapter plate for filter

2 90s for the block and 2 90s for the cooler?
could be different of course. depends on setup

[BustedS13]

so do you use a thermostat?

[Dousan_PG]

for the street/daily driver, cover your cooler w/ some duct tape
remove for track

[LongGrain]

ok i think ive got it figured out

tomei block, earls 16 row -10, earls inline filter -10, and then lines and fittings.

the guy that is rebuilding the motor told me that he has all the lines and fittings i'll need so i'll leave that up to him.

last thing i need to know is the flow order, was i right in my original post?

thanks for your help!

EDIT: whats the duct tape for? my car is only drivin from spring to fall, its put away for the winter, see's almost every track event during the season. I might also be retiring it from daily driving duties very soon, but i still drive it.

[Dousan_PG]

i forget
i think its right
iirc the tomei deal has an in/out marking? i forget
its been ages since i put my setup together and such.

if u want to save money LONG TERM
then go typical oil filter relocater from earls
because that inline deal is $$$ everytime u gotta replace
but its coola t the same time

i have the similar style for my fuel filter! its the jaaaam

[LongGrain]

yea i'm pretty sure the tomei block has in and out markings, i'm just making sure the cooler goes between the filter and block on the return side, it seems like the logical order, but i'm just making sure.

as far as the inline filter goes, 30 or 40 bucks every couple months for an oil change isnt a huge deal. it definitely seems like a safer option than a conventional filter. i dont see something like that popping off.. just thinking about the safety of my engine.

[Dousan_PG]

yeh the threaded route is the way to go
i love an fittings
haha
if u have the cash and u street drive
go w/ the black colored earls one
super baller and look more 'oe' status

[JeremyR]

greedys oil block has a built in thermostat, for those who dont want the duct tape approach. and they sell it seperate from the kit.

[LongGrain]

word, we will see what jon says about lines and fittings since he is in charge of those. i dont really need to worry about looking stock since modifying cars isnt illegal out here, they dont pop our hoods or anything.. but ive seen the black an lines and fittings and they do look pretty cool. but i also like the traditional silver w/ blue/red. whatever works! should be a sweet setup, i'm excited for it.

do you know anyone running the in line filter?

[Dousan_PG]

greedys oil block has a built in thermostat, for those who dont want the duct tape approach. and they sell it seperate from the kit.



and its way overpriced
hahaha
thats the problem
over $150 iirc
you can gete like 30 rolls of tape for that cost.

NOT ONLY THAT
but u need to get a whole more grip of AN fittings
-10 fittings are at least 7+ bucks a pop and when u start going with 90s and 120s degees it gets more!


no idont know anyone personally
like i mentioned i use the fuel one w/ no issues

[LongGrain]

good deal, i'm pretty sure i'm going to try this out.

it will be like my first real mod! dang. now i'm just hoping for the best when we get the engine torn down. it has 1 spun bearing for sure, hoping that it stops there!

[pwr-adr]

I have a custom set up using a greddy oil block and PBM oil cooler. I am curious as to how I work with the capacity of one. I have a greddy style oil pan and with this set up how do I fill it up with oil?

Fill it up cold let it run to where the thermostat on the block opens and circulates then check the level again? Thanks ahead time..

[Dousan_PG]

yeah fill your pan
for mine since engine was new we just unplugged teh cas and turned it over
u can do same, get the juices flowing

fill up your oil, crank it a bunch get the oil moving and then run it, make sure all is well (enough oil) and that should be a-ok

[LongGrain]

yeah fill your pan
for mine since engine was new we just unplugged teh cas and turned it over
u can do same, get the juices flowing

fill up your oil, crank it a bunch get the oil moving and then run it, make sure all is well (enough oil) and that should be a-ok

word thats what we did when we first fired up my motor also, except we just unplugged the injectors.

i figure the added lines and oil cooler will add about 1qt probably. i'm running the stock oil pan, dont really plan on upgrading that, i dont want to have to worry about busting a hole in an aluminum pan.

[Dousan_PG]

i am like about 6?
greddy pan
oil cooler

[LongGrain]

not bad, stock is like just under 4? i usually just put in 4. extra 2qts is nice.

you think 10 feet of line will be plenty with the inline filter setup?

heres what i have on my list.

1x 10 feet of -10 line
4x straight swivel seal fittings (2 for oil block, 2 for inline filter)
2x 90 degree swivel seal fittings (for cooler)
1x 16 row earls oil cooler
1x tomei oil block adapter

should be everything right?

[Dousan_PG]

depends where uput the cooler
i would think 10' would beok
but really have to bust out the tape measure and 2x check it

sounds good to me so far
where u gonna put the cooler? in frotn of radiator?

[LongGrain]

i hadnt really thought about it. i dont have my car here to look at, but i would assume somewhere up there. is that where its usually mounted? my setup is pretty basic, koyo, e-fans, and front mount.

[Dousan_PG]

mine on the side
but w/ the flip up lights, they dont go all the way down, which doenst matter to me (goes much lower then in pic, they are all f'd up here..old pic
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c252/dousan/new%20s13/newcar009.jpg

my buddy flybert put his up front in front of radiator, silvia face though, so good cooling still
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y9/dousan_pg/FLYBERT/IMG_1708.jpg

[khilgers]

I ordered the 10' section of -10 hose for my setup, and I had about 1.5' left.

My setup:
Tomei block adapter
Summit filter mount
-10 lines
Earls fittings
Setrab 16 row cooler
Earls thermostat

http://www.khilgers.com/forumpics/240swap/151.jpg
http://www.khilgers.com/forumpics/240swap/152.jpg
http://www.khilgers.com/forumpics/240swap/153.jpg
http://www.khilgers.com/forumpics/240swap/155.jpg

[420sx]

just get a "nascar" core cooler. 8X10 will work great and holds excellent

get earls oil block with 2 inlets. use 1 for outlet, 1 for inlet. use an 10

then get earls oil filter relocation block.

any stainless line will work. i used aeroequip. get fittings too

if you want to run a thermostat i recommend inline permacool. its like 60 bux i think. thats pretty much it man.

use summit for all your ordering. my setup was around 350$
if you want to cut corners, use ebay. just get quality stuff please

[LongGrain]

thanks kevin, i was waiting for you to chime in

420sx-i really dont mess around with cheap junk on my car.

i will probably mount it in front of the radiator or somewhere up there on the core support, just have to see how everything fits when i have both the car and cooler in front of me to test fit.

dang this is fun, cant wait to drive it again when spring comes, its going to have so many new goodies.

[japslapsilvia]

im running a greddy thermostat filter base, tomei oil block, volvo oil cooler and Mr Gasket -10 lines and fittings
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i7/japslapsilvia/DSC00289.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i7/japslapsilvia/DSC00196.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i7/japslapsilvia/DSC00183.jpg

[Om1kron]

has anyone seen pictures of a setup like this with a cartridge type of oil filter. I believe it's cartridge stuff, amsoil comes to mind but I may be wrong.

[slider2828]

What is wrong with the greddy?

I use their sandwish plate and SS lines... But I am running a RX7 turbo oil cooler without a thermostat cause the Greddy one has it. I think my lines -8's...

Any ideas? I am running it infront and slightly about my intercooler....

[drftmark]

If you are piecing your oil cooler "kit" together, then what kind of thermostat does everyone get?

[Sir]

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i7/japslapsilvia/DSC00183.jpg

Looks a lot like my setup. Only I used bulkhead fittings, to get the lines not to rub throught against the body/radiator.

Tomei block, Setrab cooler, -8an.

[japslapsilvia]

If you are piecing your oil cooler "kit" together, then what kind of thermostat does everyone get?

there are a few to choose from. check summit racing, BUT most of those (ie earls, permacool etc.) dont offer filter mount as in they are stand alone, which will add up to more fittings the greddy one i have is thermostat and filter re-location all in one.

[japslapsilvia]

Looks a lot like my setup. Only I used bulkhead fittings, to get the lines not to rub throught against the body/radiator.

Tomei block, Setrab cooler, -8an.

i wanted to use the bulkhead fittings but then i have to get a total of 4 more -10 fittings, i dont have it pictured but i have an aluminum bracket my cousin made for me to hold the lines, i think anplumbing sell them "line seperators" the one i have is similar but has a base to mount it.

Why did u use -8 line? tomei adapter is -10

[Slidin240Wayz]

What about this setup?

GReddy Oil Cooler Adaptor W/Thermostat 12401123 (http://www.240sxmotoring.com/groilcoadw.html)

+

-10 line

+

cooler

?

[ZipTiedCoupe]

Anyone car to explain the duct tape method?

[Slidin240Wayz]

duct tape...covers the cooler...no air through fins...no cool

[Dousan_PG]

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2155/2034493723_d6ff189414.jpg?v=0

[LongGrain]

is not running a t-stat really that bad?

i could be wrong but it doesnt seem to me like a simple oil cooler setup is going to stop your car from reaching operating temp or anything. is should be ok to run the oil through the cooler full time, kind of the same theory as having your E-fans running all the time, which i do. it may take longer to warm up, but that should be the only downside?

[MrChow]

is not running a t-stat really that bad?

i could be wrong but it doesnt seem to me like a simple oil cooler setup is going to stop your car from reaching operating temp or anything. is should be ok to run the oil through the cooler full time, kind of the same theory as having your E-fans running all the time, which i do. it may take longer to warm up, but that should be the only downside?
I was just thinking about that... Someone wanna chime in about this??

[japslapsilvia]

What about this setup?

GReddy Oil Cooler Adaptor W/Thermostat 12401123 (http://www.240sxmotoring.com/groilcoadw.html)

+

-10 line

+

cooler

?

it will work but no filter re-location. if you are planing on relocation the filter dont get that.

[Dousan_PG]

i dont run any thermos
so dont look at me
but my car is track duty only so its a different story

if i go street status w/ the next s13, no thermo on oil cooler, ,but ill run a water thermo again.

[LongGrain]

word, i dont plan on running one for the cooler.

btw, lots of GREAT info in this thread, big thanks to everyone who contributed!

[Firestorm]

i run a 19 row mocal oil cooler, greddy oil filter relocation kit and a mocal inline thermostat. works awesome, constant temps around 180°F even on the track.

[efrain240sx]

I got a simple question, How many quarts of oil are you guys using now with the oil cooler set up? Thanks

[burnsauto]

I got a simple question, How many quarts of oil are you guys using now with the oil cooler set up? Thanks

5.

It just takes forever the first time you fill up the system, like bleeding a coolant system (just with no air pockets)


my setup:

tomei block
greddy relocation/thermostat
about 4 ft of -10 line
Earlys 19 row intercooler.

(pic for reference, and routing ideas: don't mind the mess...this was last summer when I was still putting everything back together.)
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d115/slavetopaint/IMG_2567-1.jpg

[96Turbo]

word, i dont plan on running one for the cooler.

btw, lots of GREAT info in this thread, big thanks to everyone who contributed!

whether you choose to run a tstat depends on various things.

most track only guys find them unnecessary since once it's up to operating temp it's going to have the piss beat out of it until it's cool off time

But if you drive it daily, short trips, or in the cold (OP from wisconsin!!!), you really should run a thermostat. Oil coolers are very effective at cooling oil...so it's gonna take a long time to get the oil up to optimum temp after startup if it's always cycling through the cooler. You dont' want cold thick ass oil as it's not the best at lubricating all the vitals

[96Turbo]

here's another reason:

(copied from greddy's product info)

the most important part of this is the built in Thermostat. This allows for quick engine warm up and maintains a safe oil pressure upon startup. Without using a thermostat, some oil coolers take a while to fill up and build pressure giving longer duration to get proper oil circulation within the motor. The thermostat open temperature ranges from 71deg~85deg Celcius.

[dmax_silvia_s13]

I am looking at Earls Oil Filter By-Pass Adapters and I am wondering does the redtop sr20 use a 65mm or 69.2 mm O-Ring.
And does that inline filter that was mentioned earlier work any good?
Also, my oil cooler has -6 fittings and i see you guys are using -10. Is -6 too small to run for the lines or should I use -8 or -10 lines to the cooler and use expanders on the cooler for the bigger lines?

[Dousan_PG]

-6
way too small imo

-6 is what i use on the fuel lines! hahaha
and my PS setup
use that cooler for your PS

go AT LEAST -8 imo

[dmax_silvia_s13]

Haha Well its a fluidyne "valve spring cooler" (FLUIDYNE - High Performance - Radiators and Oil Coolers (http://www.fluidyne.com/pl_soc.html)).
I would use it as a ps cooler but that kinda seems excessive to me.
I could use this and use a -6 female to -8 male expander on the oil cooler and run -8 lines.
I saw you talking about that inline filter. Have you heard anything about it?

[dmax_silvia_s13]

And another major noob question here.. When I buy hose what else do I have get to attach fittings to the hose?

[Dousan_PG]

ps its awesome for
-6 is way too small, imo

u have to assemble it yoruself
if u cant, pay a shop
otherwise u can blow the shit apart and kill your engine (no oil pressure)

[GSXRJJordan]

is not running a t-stat really that bad?

Based on the recommendations of a few "respected" people (Aaron here and Hung @ Baker Precision, among others), I pieced together a system at Baker for less than $130, with filter relocation and a Earls 8row -10 an cooler core - no thermo. Mounted the filter on the inner frame rail right in front of the motor and the core underneath the passenger headlight above the intercooler piping - used less than 8ft of hose.

I don't run an oil temp gauge, but I do run an oil pressure gauge (in addition to water temp and boost), and that's how I'm able to tell when the car's fully warmed up. At startup, oil pressure jumps to 60psi or so (normal) right away, so I'm not worried about the extra "pressure" the thermo supposedly helps with, but it does take a while to fully warm up (I consider it warmed up when the oil pressure drops below 20psi at idle) - maybe 5 mins idling in the garage or 3-4mins of idling around town.

I wouldn't say it's dangerous, but it's not foolproof.

-6
way too small imo

-6 is what i use on the fuel lines! hahaha
and my PS setup
use that cooler for your PS

go AT LEAST -8 imo

-6???? Do they even make cores that are -6?? Maybe like a 2-row P/S cooler core... Like "Father" said, go -8 at least.

[dmax_silvia_s13]

Well like I said I can get the expanders on the cooler and run -8 lines.
Yeah I know the lines have to be cut and the fittings put it but Im just wondering what do I need to get with it. Just the econo clamps they sell or how do you do it?

And yeah fluidyne makes a -6 core the link is above to it.

[Dousan_PG]

your setup sucks for oil cooling
no one can help u now. your not listening to anything.
go 1/2 ass it like you want to.
its only your engine. nothing important.

[s13dan]

ok, i got a qeustion... If i get an adaptor for an oil cooler do i have to remove my intake mani to install it?? Or is there room.

[dmax_silvia_s13]

I never knew you were saying dont use it. I thought you meant its just bad having -6 lines.
I was kinda thinking its pretty small compared to other oil coolers so I guess I was right.
So Ill either not use it or use it for power steering.
Thanks for the help.

[240sxvaj]

good info on the oil coolers

thanks ya!

[Dousan_PG]

theres room to install it w/o taking off man

dmax silvia
ebay for a -8 cooler
nascar used ones are wicked cheap.

[slider2828]

Hey dousan, so why is the greddy stuff sucky? Hows the RX7 oil cooler?

[dmax_silvia_s13]

Yeah Ill prob just get an Earls -10 cooler!
Thanks for the help Dousan.

[Dousan_PG]

greddy hose slip on fittings blow. i had one. its a waste of money.
some people try and make that relocation filter thing into a cooler and its trash. u can make one for cheaper thru ebay.


go AN or nothing.

i dont use a Rx7 cooler
my friend does, on his rx7, works great. and cheap. ebay, junkyard. its just so big so have o had adequate space.

[Dousan_PG]

anplumbing.com is cool
or summitracing
or ebay, for used. but be careful w/used coolers
dont want nothing from a blown engine
id say go new on coolers
setrab is awesome. i got mine from SPLParts.com
ma-motorsports sells stuff
and of course, baker precision. talk w/ hung

[Sir]

Why did u use -8 line? tomei adapter is -10

the hole in the block is smaller than -10, so there is no point in running -10 lines IMHO. That and the setrab cooler I got was -8an.

No need for thermo and no issues with oil pressure. But my system is set up so that the oil will stay in the cooler when engine is shut off.

[slider2828]

I have an fittings.... Weird I guess the guy sold me a greddy sandwish plate with AN fittings.

Greddy uses any fittings for the sandwich plate and I also changed my rx7 cooler to AN fittings as well... Hmmmm

[Dousan_PG]

if u have a greddy oilcooler kit its an fittings
but the price isnt worth it.
i like the customization of setting up your own cooler

kits are for japanese people. a little fab work doesnt cost much or require much energy to make

[japslapsilvia]

if u have a greddy oilcooler kit its an fittings
but the price isnt worth it.
i like the customization of setting up your own cooler

kits are for japanese people. a little fab work doesnt cost much or require much energy to make

that is sooo true you can build a kit cheaper than the greddy kit and have more mounting options with the cooler.

and on a side note with the greddy sandwigch adapter, greddy does offer "AN" fittings for them instead of the barbed adapters that they normally come with.

[slider2828]

Yup I have AN fittings and custom lines. Bought it off a guy for pretty cheap like 200 and then my dad bent and cracked my oil cooler cause he was trying to bend something back... Oh wellz picked up an RX7 oil cooler really good condition for 30 bux and got AN fittings for it and removed the thermostat and all set!

[burnsauto]

my oil cooler setup cost me about the same as a greddy kit, but its exactly what i wanted, no sandwich adapters (which suck) and everything it high end parts. I could've skimped out, gotten cheaper line, etc etc.... but it was just one of those things i didn't want to skimp out on.

[corey240]

Im gettting flibber flabberd with information. To sum it up, what exactly should I get for an oil cooler. Without spending 500$.

[japslapsilvia]

Im gettting flibber flabberd with information. To sum it up, what exactly should I get for an oil cooler. Without spending 500$.

1st if you have an Sr get Tomei block adapter ~$200
2nd get -10 lines from summitracing and -10 hose ends (you can also use "push loc" hose) browse the "plumbing dept at summit racing
3rd get an oil cooler, pegasus racing has Mocol, summit usually has permacool, anplumbing.com has earls, and with google you can find setrab.
4th decide if you want a thermostat, summit has in line thermostats, as well as filter bases.

[TheWolf]

the reason you want a thermostat is that in a street car the oil will absorb condensation from the engine. As the oil heats up this water vaporizes. If you live up north and your oil doesn't get warm enough after days of short run trips it can absorb enough water to become useless. The knock on the thermostat is that it can fail/stay closed and at a track day you won't be able to keep oil temps down. I'd rather prepare for the daily drive than the .01% event.

[S14DB]

has anyone seen pictures of a setup like this with a cartridge type of oil filter. I believe it's cartridge stuff, amsoil comes to mind but I may be wrong.

Bobistheoilguy has some good write ups on those and bypass filters.

[codyace]

kits are for japanese people. a little fab work doesn't cost much or require much energy to make

I fabbed all of mine up with stainless fittings from a local hydraulic shop. They are Dayco or something. Got my hoes from there too.

Got a Ford Oil filter block (permacool), and use the circuit sports adapter.

I think I was just around 100-150 bucks, but did not go with a cooler. I've never seen high oil temps doing HPDE and didn't want the hassle if I didn't need it. I Always dump in 6 qts too.

the hole in the block is smaller than -10, so there is no point in running -10 lines IMHO. That and the setrab cooler I got was -8an.


Agreed. Going from -8 to -10 didn't make sense to me either. (I know why you'd want bigger hose, but with a restriction on the inlet/outlet, didn't seem to add up to me.

[GSXRJJordan]

... but did not go with a cooler. I've never seen high oil temps doing HPDE and didn't want the hassle if I didn't need it...

Seriously? Do you run an oil temp gauge? Mine was up around 240*F after about a minute of "spirited" driving on my T25 back when I had a temp gauge hooked up - this and sustained high revs made my water temps shoot up to about 230* before I decided to slow down and let the car cool off - and oil takes a lonnnnng time to cool down.

After installing the oil cooler, I don't EVER see water temps above 210*F (running a bigger turbo now too), and that was a "freeway pull" on a 100*F day.

I've never seen an engine (except for the 1000cc GSXR motors I've built) that cooks it's oil - and therefore needs an oil cooler - like the SR20 - I honestly believe everyone that runs their car hard should have a cooler, but maybe your ball bearing turbo and the fact that autox is 1-2mins at a time keeps your temps down?

[Dousan_PG]

maybe
do a few laps on open track at various speeds thru corners and shifting etc etc
and temps get up real fast.
cooler is vital

[g-via]

alright well my SR mysteriously started popping off oil filters, so of course my motor pumped all of its oil out and ran dry and spun a bearing.

so while it is down for the rebuild i want to do a custom oil filter relocation and cooler setup just to ensure i dont have this problem again (along with an oil pressure gauge of course)

i'm kind of hazy as to how the whole setup works. so i have some questions

with a relocation does the flow go: engine -> oil filter -> oil cooler -> engine?

and if that is the case, can i use a greddy relocation kit, and just run custom return lines to route to the cooler and back to the greddy oil block?

i plan on using an earls 16 row cooler and all earls lines and fittings. as far as the oil block and the relocation block, i am unsure.

any help is greatly appreciated, i searched but didnt find much help

Hey OP,

You said you were having an issue with you oil filter popping off? I'm guess you weren't running a sandwich plate (no oil pres gauge), but what kind of filter were you running?

Same shit happened to me (using a Fram filter), but I caught it in time so no major damage. do you know what caused your filter to pop off? i still dont know what caused mine, called fram about it though...

[D14]

Quick dumb question - someone mentioned covering the oil cooler with duct tape when daily driving earlier, is that just to keep the cooler from being damaged by road debris?

[96Turbo]

Quick dumb question - someone mentioned covering the oil cooler with duct tape when daily driving earlier, is that just to keep the cooler from being damaged by road debris?

taht was for minimizing the effect of the oil cooler so that the oil would get up to temp faster (instead of using a thermostat which would be ideal)


Does anyone know of a company that makes an oil block adapter for an RB25? I can't find one....

[GSXRJJordan]

taht was for minimizing the effect of the oil cooler so that the oil would get up to temp faster (instead of using a thermostat which would be ideal)


Does anyone know of a company that makes an oil block adapter for an RB25? I can't find one....

I believe the RB25 uses the same screw-on type as the later (S14/S15) SRs. I don't know about the block adapter, but I can say that as long as you keep the O-ring in good shape (install properly, replace every couple years) the screw-on type work fine/don't leak/etc. I know that's not the answer you're looking for, but just something to keep in mind.

[LongGrain]

great info everyone, keep it up

i have some concerns

with an in line filter, is there any way to change it without making a huge mess?

also, when you do an oil change, how do you get all the old oil out of the cooler/lines. do you have to remove them and manually drain/flush them?

and just to clarify, when you are filling, you fill the pan, then run the car for a little to get the oil pumping, then check dip stick and add accordingly?

[Dousan_PG]

i dont worry about the oil in the lines personally
make a mess? put the filter somewhere which will give you adequate control to keep it clean

yes on the last q

[LongGrain]

i'm just kind of concerned since this setup will be going on a freshly rebuilt motor, and going through break in with the cooler. i dont want the gritty, metallic break in oil to stay in there when i change it out for fresh stuff.

[Dousan_PG]

i did on mine and it was fine.

[LongGrain]

COOL, no worries then i guess. thanks a lot for your help!

[Dousan_PG]

np
my friends have done the same

[dopplganger1]

so if your running a block adapter how would you go about running a thermo unit or with the adapter is that not possible because the only ones with thermos that ive seen are sandwich adapters?

[LongGrain]

Hey OP,

You said you were having an issue with you oil filter popping off? I'm guess you weren't running a sandwich plate (no oil pres gauge), but what kind of filter were you running?

Same shit happened to me (using a Fram filter), but I caught it in time so no major damage. do you know what caused your filter to pop off? i still dont know what caused mine, called fram about it though...

i missed this before.

i was just using the stock oil block and an OEM nissan filter.

it blew off 2 OEM filters, but i think the second one was because the threads were fucked up from the first. not sure. but i'm going to eliminate the possibility of this problem repeating itself.

i trailored the car home from the track and have not even been home to see it since. I'm pulling the motor out next friday for the rebuild since i will be home for thanksgiving.. so i guess i'll take a look at it then.

silly question- it looks like the hose end fittings and the cooler inlet/outlet are both female, do i need a male-male adapter to go between these?

[S14DB]

so if your running a block adapter how would you go about running a thermo unit or with the adapter is that not possible because the only ones with thermos that ive seen are sandwich adapters?They make inline bypass themos with 4 AN ports on them. One side is Engine IN/OUT the other is Cooler IN/OUT. Looks like a Block with 2 ports on each side. There is a couple on summit.

i'm just kind of concerned since this setup will be going on a freshly rebuilt motor, and going through break in with the cooler. i dont want the gritty, metallic break in oil to stay in there when i change it out for fresh stuff.It's going to stay in the same spot and get trapped by the next filter. You never drain all the oil from your car. 1/2~1quart stays in the galleys and such. Another half quart won't contaminate the new oil. It's NBD.

silly question- it looks like the hose end fittings and the cooler inlet/outlet are both female, do i need a male-male adapter to go between these?

Yes, Unless it comes with them in the package.

[g-via]

i missed this before.

i was just using the stock oil block and an OEM nissan filter.

it blew off 2 OEM filters, but i think the second one was because the threads were fucked up from the first. not sure. but i'm going to eliminate the possibility of this problem repeating itself.

i trailored the car home from the track and have not even been home to see it since. I'm pulling the motor out next friday for the rebuild since i will be home for thanksgiving.. so i guess i'll take a look at it then.

silly question- it looks like the hose end fittings and the cooler inlet/outlet are both female, do i need a male-male adapter to go between these?

maybe I am using the wrong thread pitch for my SR

what should be the proper oil filter thread pitch, just to check...?

[LongGrain]

They make inline bypass themos with 4 AN ports on them. One side is Engine IN/OUT the other is Cooler IN/OUT. Looks like a Block with 2 ports on each side. There is a couple on summit.

It's going to stay in the same spot and get trapped by the next filter. You never drain all the oil from your car. 1/2~1quart stays in the galleys and such. Another half quart won't contaminate the new oil. It's NBD.



Yes, Unless it comes with them in the package.

thanks for the info

maybe I am using the wrong thread pitch for my SR

what should be the proper oil filter thread pitch, just to check...?

i have no idea, i work at a dealership so i just grabbed OEM filters when i did oil changes. i grabbed the right ones, for a sentra SER or whatever like everyone says to. i dont think the filter was the problem, i think something else went wrong that made the filter come off.

[dopplganger1]

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRM%2D1070&N=700+400006+304354+115&autoview=sku

is that the inline bypass? also would 1/2in. or 3/8in. line size be better?

[S14DB]

Perma-Cool 1070 - Perma-Cool Remote Mount Oil Thermostats - summitracing.com (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRM%2D1070&N=700+400006+304354+115&autoview=sku)

is that the inline bypass? also would 1/2in. or 3/8in. line size be better?

Yeah that would work.

Remote Oil Thermostats - summitracing.com (http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+4294843279+115)

[fromxtor]

I'm bumping this thread because it contains a wealth of info and has helped me to decide what I wanted to do. This is a list of the setup I am going with:

Stance oil block (uses -10 AN fittings like the Tomei, but cheaper)
Trans-dapt oil filter mount
-10 AN lines built by me at work
Core(havent decided which brand to use)

^^I'm doing all this for like $250-$275, heres pics of the oil block and filter mount to give you an idea.

http://a763.g.akamai.net/7/763/1644/4/app.infopia.com/img/image/fp/VPID/3248736/img4/img.jpg
http://stance-usa.com/sus/images/stories/engine/stnc-oilblockadapter.jpg

[Dousan_PG]

dont use that oil mount
you'll blow way too much on fittings and lines, use this one:

AN PLUMBING.COM Earls performance products, Hose ends Hose,Adapters, fittings (http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/index.php?shop=Accessories&dept=Oil!_filter!_Adapter)

part: 2178
http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/images/9401_2178.jpg


or any similar type from summit
get the 'in/out' type not that 4 business. -10 fittings are $ and unecesary to have so much plumbing.
coolers: earls or setrab

[Om1kron]

I'm assuming you don't run an oil thermostat on your relocation and cooler setup because it's a track car Aaron?

[Dousan_PG]

i would do it same w/ street car
i would just tape my oil cooler or put some cardboard in front of it.
but thats just me.

[Om1kron]

haha yeah I caught that earlier in the thread... duct tape on the streets, no duct tape on the track.

[GSXRJJordan]

i would do it same w/ street car
i would just tape my oil cooler or put some cardboard in front of it.
but thats just me.

Yeah, I don't run a thermo either - you'd only want to run a thermo if you were worried about oil temps falling below nominal after the car's warm, which doesn't happen in socal.

I let the car warm up, and right about the same time the water thermo opens and my temps are up, my oil pressure at idle drops to about 14psi, so I know the oil's warm. Easy.

[Om1kron]

nice... I just need the relocation block and some lines and junk and i'm golden. I'm not running an oil cooler on a street car, retarded.

[GSXRJJordan]

nice... I just need the relocation block and some lines and junk and i'm golden. I'm not running an oil cooler on a street car, retarded.

It really does make a difference in coolant temps though (which means it's making a HUGE difference in oil temps). For some reason, SR's heat up the oil like nobody's business. I know before I used installed the cooler, I couldn't make it all the way up Angeles Crest without my temps rising to 220*+, which would make me want to slow it down and let the car rest for a bit... afterwards, I can run the car as hard as I want, in whatever weather, and never see temps above 200*.

Gives me a ton of peace-of-mind, as well as the super-handy filter relocation and "car bling", which are both also important :)

[Om1kron]

well until my stance block ships out i'm dick in the dirt dead in that department anyway... I'm going to have to install this while the engine is in the car, it's going to suck.

[alesserfate]

Your oil filters could have been popping off due to bad threads on your oil block, over tightening your filter, or wrong filter.

I have a Blitz aluminum oil cooler kit that I use with a circuit sports oil block. It works well.

You can see it to the left of the intercooler in this pic, it's normally facing forward but because I hit a wall and had 45 minutes to fix my car before qualifying we just ended up zip tying it in whatever position just to make the car run.

http://www.vladcrown.com/images/other/_MG_5248.JPG

Heres the original Blitz piece for the block that comes with the kit:
And the circuit sports piece we replaced that piece with (on the seat, blue):




http://www.vladcrown.com/images/other/DSC05914.JPG

http://www.vladcrown.com/images/other/DSC06002.JPG

[DataXUnknown]

Since this thread was bumped, I just have a small simple question. Is an oil cooler a good idea for a car thats both daily driven and tracked? I got an oil cooler off of an Evo, but I don't know if it's worth it to install it because I really don't track it that much yet. I have huge plans for it though. I don't know if keeping your oil temp. is really that important if your not heating it up a crazy amount.

[Om1kron]

it's bad, so you should give me that cooler. like on the cheap. real cheap... kekeke

[GSXRJJordan]

Since this thread was bumped, I just have a small simple question. Is an oil cooler a good idea for a car thats both daily driven and tracked? I got an oil cooler off of an Evo, but I don't know if it's worth it to install it because I really don't track it that much yet. I have huge plans for it though. I don't know if keeping your oil temp. is really that important if your not heating it up a crazy amount.

Dude, read up like two posts. I think it's still a good idea.

[TheArkitekt]

I use an oil cooler on my street/track car (not driven winters however) and my block adapter has a thermoswitch in it that opens only when the oil should need cooling. If its setup like this then you should be fine. If its open and cooling all the time itll take a while to get oil up to temp...

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g50/tpr240hatch/DSCN2315.jpg

black adapter from grex
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g50/tpr240hatch/DSCN2307.jpg

[Om1kron]

haha cart was looking real good till I added 10 feet of that black aeroquip hose, i'm not running a cooler so I'll have to do measurements and decide where I'm going to mount that bitch.

[singlecamslam]

I use the tomei block and i would of used the stance one but they didnt have it back than. I also use the earl's filter relocation thing and it works perfectly. Also use the earls thermostat. I dont think you need it but i use it just to be safe. And i dont know if someone answered your question yet but the flow goes from engine to filet to cooler back to engine.

[SRpetey]

in ganna use the tomei block adapter and want to know if i should put my after market temp gauge on the tomei block adapter or get on of this things and put it in the fitting where the oil from the engine comes out(the tomei -10 out fitting). Which will be more accurate??????

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/rus-670360_w.jpg

[Om1kron]

it wont be "more accurate" it will just be in a different place within the oiling system.

[GSXRJJordan]

haha cart was looking real good till I added 10 feet of that black aeroquip hose, i'm not running a cooler so I'll have to do measurements and decide where I'm going to mount that bitch.

I used just under 7ft of hose, with a cooler. That's pretty much minimum distances though - oil filter relocated just in front of the alternator, and the cooler just under pass side headlight.

[LongGrain]

i'm still sticking with the in-line filter, i dont really see any reason not too. It makes for a cleaner install, its washable and reusable, no worries of it coming off, etc.

already have STANCE oil block adapter (bought from TF a month before they released them), and Amazon just shipped out my cooler. now its just a matter of ordering the lines, fittings and filter from anplumbing and assembling lines.

is it ok for me to assemble the lines myself? ive never done it but it seems like a lot of members here assemble their own, is it difficult? i may try to find someone local who has done it before.

i'm glad this thread has helped out others

[GSXRJJordan]

i'm still sticking with the in-line filter, i dont really see any reason not too. It makes for a cleaner install, its washable and reusable, no worries of it coming off, etc.

Cost?

is it ok for me to assemble the lines myself? ive never done it but it seems like a lot of members here assemble their own, is it difficult? i may try to find someone local who has done it before.

It's not "difficult" but unless you do it right, you it leaks (or you break the fitting). As long as you've got the right wrenches and someone lookin over your shoulder who's done it, you should be fine.

[96Turbo]

i'm still sticking with the in-line filter, i dont really see any reason not too. It makes for a cleaner install, its washable and reusable, no worries of it coming off, etc.

already have STANCE oil block adapter (bought from TF a month before they released them), and Amazon just shipped out my cooler. now its just a matter of ordering the lines, fittings and filter from anplumbing and assembling lines.

is it ok for me to assemble the lines myself? ive never done it but it seems like a lot of members here assemble their own, is it difficult? i may try to find someone local who has done it before.

i'm glad this thread has helped out others

the first (and thus far only) lines i've made were for my power steering setup. Stainless braided blah blah blah.

Mine don't leak at all. Just be careful and take your time....as with anything

If i pulled it off first try with PS lines (hella high pressure compared to engine oil).....i think you'll be alright

[SRpetey]

it wont be "more accurate" it will just be in a different place within the oiling system.

but if I place it in the block adapter isn't it ganna read cooled oil since it has gone through the oil cooler and if I place it in the OUT fitting of the block adapter it would read the oil temp in the engine. Does it even matter?

[Om1kron]

cutting them looks like a bitch, they have like a meat cleaver knife type of deal and hammer through the line to make a straight cut, then place the fitting in a vice and twist the tube in it and apparently it wont come out after that point.

[Om1kron]

but if I place it in the block adapter isn't it ganna read cooled oil since it has gone through the oil cooler and if I place it in the OUT fitting of the block adapter it would read the oil temp in the engine. Does it even matter?

The oil is going to go through the whole system anyway, just think of it as a circle... there is no best place to put it if it's irrelevant. oil pressure is the one where I would worry about placement, definitely on the lines or on some block and not the oil pan. I don't know if it would read the same in both places.

i'm not a big engine pressure genius but the temp gauge is kind of a dead horse.

[LongGrain]

Cost?



It's not "difficult" but unless you do it right, you it leaks (or you break the fitting). As long as you've got the right wrenches and someone lookin over your shoulder who's done it, you should be fine.

yea its like $36 bucks, but i dont have to buy a filter pedestal, nor a new filter every time i change my oil, i can just pop this one off and clean it each time. replace the element if need be, but i think it would pay for it self after just a few oil changes.

[LESS-TRACTION-MORE-ACTION]

Hey so with tomei block w/thermostat every time it's closed your oil is not filtered if you have a loop system eg block to filter to cooler to block?? Is there a set up which alows oil to be filterer even when thermo shut?? How much does it bypass while shut??

[GSXRJJordan]

The thermo is only closed while the car's warming up... once the oil comes up to temp, it'll never be cold enough outside to drop it down below 180* or so.

Don't worry about it.

[opponheimer]

Don't run a filter relocater if you don't need to, they are not necessary IMO.

http://www.bizlocker.com/cars/rb/mini-P1000314.JPG

http://www.bizlocker.com/cars/rb/mini-P1000315.JPG


5.25" Diameter Go-Kart 12VDC fan!!! 200cfm... ran it to rad fan power, but you may just want to run something like this to a oil thermostat switch.

http://www.bizlocker.com/cars/rb/mini-P1000318.JPG




If you don't get one of these, (thermostatic oil filter housings) you may want to say bye bye motor again (if you live anywhere that gets extremely cold.)

http://www.bizlocker.com/cars/rb/mini-P1000313.JPG

[GSXRJJordan]

Don't run a filter relocater if you don't need to, they are not necessary IMO.

Have you ever tried to get to an SR's oil filter? Lol, for the price of a decent meal I could never have to fuck up my hands reaching down there to get the filter off? Yes please.

If you don't get one of these, (thermostatic oil filter housings) you may want to say bye bye motor again (if you live anywhere that gets extremely cold.)

You could get a Greddy dist block/thermo and say bye bye to ~$500... or you can get a relocation kit from Summit ($80), a core ($50), and an inline thermo ($100) with some AN fittings ($20) and then have a trackday to go along with the pride of putting it together yourself.

Or move to a place like socal, where quite a few of us run no thermo (but keep an eye on my oil w/gauge).

[opponheimer]

Have you ever tried to get to an SR's oil filter? Lol, for the price of a decent meal I could never have to fuck up my hands reaching down there to get the filter off? Yes please.



You could get a Greddy dist block/thermo and say bye bye to ~$500... or you can get a relocation kit from Summit ($80), a core ($50), and an inline thermo ($100) with some AN fittings ($20) and then have a trackday to go along with the pride of putting it together yourself.

Or move to a place like socal, where quite a few of us run no thermo (but keep an eye on my oil w/gauge).


WTH you talking bout? that greddy thing i got was for $90 from 240sxmotoring, the rest of the kit is the generic eBay oil cooler kit with a NICE cooler and 3 -10 stainless lines and other housings too (i didnt use) for $120 on eBay..

With the greddy sandwich it will space the filter out on an SR about 2" further, making it way easier to access..

I've had many many many many sr'd 240s fyi and never had an issue with reaching the filter

[singlecamslam]

Hey so with tomei block w/thermostat every time it's closed your oil is not filtered if you have a loop system eg block to filter to cooler to block?? Is there a set up which alows oil to be filterer even when thermo shut?? How much does it bypass while shut??

I use the tomei block, it goes from block to filter than to a earls thermostat. So its filtered while it cold and when it warms up the thermo opens and goes to the cooler, easy.

[GSXRJJordan]

WTH you talking bout? that greddy thing i got was for $90 from 240sxmotoring, the rest of the kit is the generic eBay oil cooler kit with a NICE cooler and 3 -10 stainless lines and other housings too (i didnt use) for $120 on eBay..

With the greddy sandwich it will space the filter out on an SR about 2" further, making it way easier to access..

I've had many many many many sr'd 240s fyi and never had an issue with reaching the filter

Oh, I thought you bought the whole kit - for $90, I'd get a Greddy thermo too, shit that's how much the "generic" ones go for.

+1 for Oppen :)

I use the tomei block, it goes from block to filter than to a earls thermostat. So its filtered while it cold and when it warms up the thermo opens and goes to the cooler, easy.

I thought he was talking about a block/thermo in one unit... yeah SingleCam's got the right idea here.

[LongGrain]

it gets cold where i live (duh) but i dont drive the car in the cold. it will most likely never see temps under 30 degrees.

i'm still planning to run an in-line filter and no thermostat, i may or may not cover the cooler for daily driving/cooler days.

my setup:

Stance oil block adapter (similar to tomei) -10
earls in-line -10 oil filter (cleanable/reusable)
earls 16 row -10 cooler

the cooler is smaller than i thought it would be, but that might be a good thing on a semi-daily driven car, I think it will do its job, but wont be overkill for what i'm doing.

[GSXRJJordan]

The big difference in cooling comes from no cooler->small cooler - the difference from small cooler to large cooler isn't NEARLY as big.

[opponheimer]

yeah,, a larger cooler is more of a burden too because you have fitment issues like a bitch...


IE look what i had to do to my turn signal:

http://www.bizlocker.com/cars/rb/mini-P1000319.JPG


http://www.bizlocker.com/cars/rb/mini-P1000320.JPG




I don't think I'll daily drive the car with the turn signal in on hot days so i'll get better flow to the oil cooler...

[GSXRJJordan]

Creative lol ~ with the S14, I haven't had any issues like that (my cooler's in the same place).

As far as air flow, I don't have temp gauges set up before and after the cooler to read temps, but it doesn't seem like airflow changes oil temps nearly as much as ambient temp does. I thought about getting a NACA duct for the bumper like this one for hot high-speed track days, and just blocking it off the rest of the time:
http://www.discoveryparts.com/images/ducting/SPA-D107.jpg
Discovery Parts - Small Air Duct For Bumper Spoiler SPA-D107 (http://www.discoveryparts.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?cart_id=1236393467.356&product=ducting&pid=150)

[opponheimer]

Creative lol ~ with the S14, I haven't had any issues like that (my cooler's in the same place).

As far as air flow, I don't have temp gauges set up before and after the cooler to read temps, but it doesn't seem like airflow changes oil temps nearly as much as ambient temp does. I thought about getting a NACA duct for the bumper like this one for hot high-speed track days, and just blocking it off the rest of the time:
http://www.discoveryparts.com/images/ducting/SPA-D107.jpg
Discovery Parts - Small Air Duct For Bumper Spoiler SPA-D107 (http://www.discoveryparts.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?cart_id=1236393467.356&product=ducting&pid=150)


that looks pretty cool, may look into that, i wonder how itll look on zenki front...

oh yeah, i kept wiper fluid reservoir thats why the oil cooler is so pushed forward

[Slammed180]

Does anybody know of a set-up to use on the CA18?
I've looked around and seen Greddy kits for ~$800 and ARC kits for ~$1300 for the CA.
There has to be a cheaper solution.

[GSXRJJordan]

Does anybody know of a set-up to use on the CA18?
I've looked around and seen Greddy kits for ~$800 and ARC kits for ~$1300 for the CA.
There has to be a cheaper solution.

As long as you find the oil filter thread pitch/size, you can make your own just like I did for my SR. Total cost for relocation and cooler with fittings was like $140, add a thermo for another $100 or so.

[Slammed180]

I have a Grex oil filter relocation for my CA.
It's apparently a universal Nissan application. RB/SR/CA. According to the person I bought it off of.
Can anyone confirm that CA and SR are the same?

Edit: I think I figured it out.
CA is 3/4 UNF -16
S13 SR is the same right?
S14/15 SR is M20x1.5

If that's true I can use an SR oil filter relocation/cooler set-up on my CA.

[awesomenick]

i KNOW that CA's and KA's can share filters.

I've never seen an SR's filter though.

[ryangreg]

I use tinfoil to cover my oil cooler on highway cruises at night, or in the cooler fall/spring months here in New England.

Thermostat for an oil cooler is an absolute must for cars driven in the snowy winter months etc....

[Slammed180]

I don't drive my car in weather below 5* C. So not too worried about a thermostat.

Can anyone confirm what I found about S13 SR Oil filter thread pitch being 3/4 UNF -16?

[WagDatto]

Alright, quick question. I'm getting one of the Skull and Bones oil block setups (thanks again, guys, can't wait!), an RX-7 oil cooler and an in-line Earl's filter (-8AN to match the rest).

From what research I've done, the RX7 cooler has a built in thermostat that will only direct oil through the cooler at XXX*, and otherwise bypass it straight around the thermostat and through the outlet line.

Now, this is the first time I've done any oil cooler/redirected setup. To my understanding, outlet FROM block goes to INLET on oil cooler. Out from oil cooler to inlet on oil filter... Out from oil filter, in to block?

OR would I go from block to filter to cooler to block?

And a quick explanation why I'd route it which way would be awesome. I've read through the whole thread, and probably overlooked the question (since the OP wasn't answered).

Also, would you suggest I keep or remove the RX7 thermostat and replace it with something else (assuming it works properly)? I'll be welding -8AN fittings onto the cooler, and the S&B block is -8AN fittings.

[LongGrain]

filter goes on the OUT line, so you dont have a bunch of nasty unfiltered oil going through your cooler

engine OUT -> filter -> cooler IN -> cooler OUT -> engine IN

[WagDatto]

Thanks for the quick reply! Original plan was for remote filter... but in-line will make things super easy and way cleaner I think.

[singlecamslam]

I think i would rather stick to a remote filter, thats just my opinion. But like longrain said, from the relocation block, to the filter, than to cooler, back to engine, you want the oil to get filtered before it goes into the cooler.

[awesomenick]

I have a few questions about this stuff. Probably stupid ones.

When you mount your oil cooler, do you have to do it in a way that the lines will drain when you change your oil? Or do you just let the dirty oil stay in it?

Are the inline filters as "good" as normal ones?

I mean, I've seen the system1 kind, but other than that I haven't seen much but "prefilters."

[LongGrain]

i would assume so, earls makes quality products, i trust them to make an adequate filter..

as for any other brands i cannot say.

[awesomenick]

Just checking..

Earl's Performance 230308ERL - Earl's Performance Screen-Type Inline Oil Filters - summitracing.com (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=EAR-230308ERL&N=700+115&autoview=sku)

Are those the ones you're thinking of? I don't know anything about these, but I just assumed they weren't enough of a filter to replace the "normal" kind, and that's why they were calling them "pre-filters." But I've assumed some pretty stupid stuff before.

[GSXRJJordan]

If you're asking what's best, a "normal" filter is best - they have a relief valve for one (so if something takes a shit and a little piece of gasket or something gets into the oil, your oil system doesn't get clogged up) and every race car I've ever seen (that actually gets raced) has one or two "normal" type filters on it.

As far as what's "interesting" or "different", inline might be cool. I don't know why, I'm just biased against it - I'd suggest asking Earl's (store #1 is here in LA, call them) or Summit and see what they think.

[jr_ss]

When you mount your oil cooler, do you have to do it in a way that the lines will drain when you change your oil? Or do you just let the dirty oil stay in it?

You're never going to get all the old oil out of the cooler unless it has a drain or one of the lines that connects to it connects on the bottom or lower side of the cooler that could be popped off.

Now that you mention it, I'll probably mount mine so one of the inlet/outlets is at the bottom so I can pull it off, to drain it every once in awhile.

It's not that big of a deal though, considering most kits hold maybe a quart of oil throughout the entire system. I think that 4 or 5 fresh quarts will dilute the old oil pretty well I would imagine.

[GSXRJJordan]

My oil cooler added approx 1/2 quart of overall capacity, with relocation and cooler. If you've ever taken an oil pan off (after supposedly "draining all the oil out") you'll know that you never get every last drop of oil out - and THAT'S OK!

... unless you just had a rod bearing shred itself to pieces, then you'll want to drop the pan/remove the cooler/flush everything, just so that shit isn't recirculating in your new engine.

[LongGrain]

maybe you guys were right.

ive been doing a lot of reading about the in-line filters and until now i didnt see any problem. but i just found a description on holley's website that says they should be used as a "pre-filter"

does this mean that they should NOT be used as a primary filter?

if thats the case i'm just going to stick with a conventional filter setup...

[awesomenick]

The System1 filters seem like they could handle the job. I don't think they're described as "pre filters" either.

[jr_ss]

A prefilter will probably be a less micron rating, allowing smaller piece through. I wouldn't use something described as a "prefilter" as my primary. That's asking for problems.

[dori_sil8t]

fram makes a filter wrap thats magnetic. summit racing sells em i cant seem to find it tho on the web site.

[S14DB]

fram makes a filter wrap thats magnetic. summit racing sells em i cant seem to find it tho on the web site.
Don't waste your time. They are crap. Magnet hold shit on the case and it rusts. Good filter media works better.


Anyone using a bypass filter setup?

[jr_ss]

fram makes a filter wrap thats magnetic. summit racing sells em i cant seem to find it tho on the web site.

If you buy the more expensive filters, some of them have magnets in them... No need for that magnetic wrap crap.

[LongGrain]

1 more question

for those of you running this

http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/images/9401_2178.jpg

what filter do you use?

[singlecamslam]

You can run any filter as long as it fits on that thing. I think you can use stock KA filter on those ^^

[landins13]

Have you ever tried to get to an SR's oil filter? Lol, for the price of a decent meal I could never have to fuck up my hands reaching down there to get the filter off? Yes please.



You could get a Greddy dist block/thermo and say bye bye to ~$500... or you can get a relocation kit from Summit ($80), a core ($50), and an inline thermo ($100) with some AN fittings ($20) and then have a trackday to go along with the pride of putting it together yourself.

Or move to a place like socal, where quite a few of us run no thermo (but keep an eye on my oil w/gauge).




lazy fucks. i would rather spend 200 dollars on my motor, than 200 dollars to keep my pretty nails manacured and my hands free of scrapes........

if you work on your own car your hands will get fucked up. adding another 5 feet of oil lines into your car and making your oil pump work harder is fucking retarded. if youve changed your oil more than 1 time on your sr than you realize its not that bad. OFR are party tricks, like turbo timers, if you are too lazy to spend 30 seconds in your car letting it cool down or too lazy to reach into a tight spot to change an oil filter. dont buy a car take the bus.

[singlecamslam]

lazy fucks. i would rather spend 200 dollars on my motor, than 200 dollars to keep my pretty nails manacured and my hands free of scrapes........

if you work on your own car your hands will get fucked up. adding another 5 feet of oil lines into your car and making your oil pump work harder is fucking retarded. if youve changed your oil more than 1 time on your sr than you realize its not that bad. OFR are party tricks, like turbo timers, if you are too lazy to spend 30 seconds in your car letting it cool down or too lazy to reach into a tight spot to change an oil filter. dont buy a car take the bus.


What? oil cooler are an essential part on a SR motor. And adding oil cooler and lines doesnt strain the oil pump that much at all. The oil pump can handle it no problem as long as you get a larger pan so you dont starve the motor of oil.

Plus in my opinion those greddy blocks suck, best way is to use a tomei or stance and route your oil filter somewhere else.

[johngriff]

External Filter, use the 2JZ adapter (Baker Performance, Signal Hill CA)

-10 line, make your own from earls.

Oil Cooler? Choose your own, but you GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR.

The SR Keeps Most of its heat in the oil, and it makes a huge difference with the cooler, which is why so many people bitch about thermo's.

I like aarons idea w/the duct tape.

[fromxtor]

I use ford filters, just make sure you use the right thread pitch. Summit is where I get mine from.

[LongGrain]

What? oil cooler are an essential part on a SR motor. And adding oil cooler and lines doesnt strain the oil pump that much at all. The oil pump can handle it no problem as long as you get a larger pan so you dont starve the motor of oil.

Plus in my opinion those greddy blocks suck, best way is to use a tomei or stance and route your oil filter somewhere else.

you dont need a bigger oil pan, you just need to add more oil to accomodate the cooler and lines the first time you fill it.

after that it should stay about stock capacity unless you drain the cooler and lines.

[WagDatto]

I know a lot of people use -10 AN fittings and such on these setups. Is there any down-side to using -8 AN fittings and lines for a typical setup? I'm using a KA, and I'll be dropping a supercharged KA in the car in about a month or so. I'm only looking for between 200-250rwhp, if that makes any difference.

Should I upgrade to -10AN? Or will the -8AN be sufficient for my needs?

RX-7 Oil cooler is on my doorstep as of this afternoon! Mockup time!

[LongGrain]

-8 should be fine

i think its mostly just personal preference.

and of course it depends on the oil block you use, some are -10, some are -8

[singlecamslam]

you dont need a bigger oil pan, you just need to add more oil to accomodate the cooler and lines the first time you fill it.

after that it should stay about stock capacity unless you drain the cooler and lines.

Yea i know, i was trying to say get like a baffled oil pan so you wont starve the engine on corners. But that kind of slipped away. haha.

[GSXRJJordan]

-8 is on the small side, but shouldn't "make or break" it. Why not -10? Can't find room or something? Skull and Bones (manonegra's) dist block has -10 :) Plus, every cooler I've seen that's worth a damn uses -10...

lazy fucks. i would rather spend 200 dollars on my motor, than 200 dollars to keep my pretty nails manacured and my hands free of scrapes........

if you work on your own car your hands will get fucked up. adding another 5 feet of oil lines into your car and making your oil pump work harder is fucking retarded. if youve changed your oil more than 1 time on your sr than you realize its not that bad. OFR are party tricks, like turbo timers, if you are too lazy to spend 30 seconds in your car letting it cool down or too lazy to reach into a tight spot to change an oil filter. dont buy a car take the bus.

Haha, wow, lots of hate there.

First of all, the extra few feet of line is not important, in the least. Be real. When adding an oil cooler, there's no additional line at all, it sits right in line with the cooler, you douche.

You joined in Jan 2008. I've had SRs since 2005. I'd venture to say that my opinion is "non-trivial" when it comes to this shit, and I say an oil relocation is a blessing, especially when it's so fuckin cheap.

Here it comes...

.. wait for it...

THERE IS NO DOWNSIDE. Sure, I guess you could say the same for turbo timers, but I don't use one.

The $140 I spent on my oil cooler and relocation was money well spent, considering the effect is has had on my oil and coolant temps, not to mention not having to "fuck up my manicure" every time I reach for that goddamned filter.

[awesomenick]

Skull and Bones actually uses -8AN!

[GSXRJJordan]

Skull and Bones actually uses -8AN!

Wow, totally didn't know that. -8 is fine then :)

[I10cruiser]

quick question.. ive been looking through this thread and others aswell:/ ...
to use an oil cooler set up on a ka (or any other motor) you HAVE to get an oil filter relocation kit ?.. is it possible to do it with out it?

[GSXRJJordan]

quick question.. ive been looking through this thread and others aswell:/ ...
to use an oil cooler set up on a ka (or any other motor) you HAVE to get an oil filter relocation kit ?.. is it possible to do it with out it?

No, you do not need to relocate the filter, but I think the point is, why not?

Without a relocation, you'd just be looking for a screw-on distribution block (with O-ring), that mounts the filter right on top of it.

[Mister.E]

lazy fucks. i would rather spend 200 dollars on my motor, than 200 dollars to keep my pretty nails manacured and my hands free of scrapes........

if you work on your own car your hands will get fucked up. adding another 5 feet of oil lines into your car and making your oil pump work harder is fucking retarded. if youve changed your oil more than 1 time on your sr than you realize its not that bad. OFR are party tricks, like turbo timers, if you are too lazy to spend 30 seconds in your car letting it cool down or too lazy to reach into a tight spot to change an oil filter. dont buy a car take the bus.

you sir are fucking stupid and should not speak up unless you are 100% sure you know what you are talking about.

first off you say that you would rather spend $200 on your motor....wait....the last time i checked, my oil filter/cooler setup is connected to my motor so it looks like i did exactly like you said and spent that $200 on my motor right?

my oil cooler/filter relocation setup is probably one of the best upgrades ive ever put on my SR. my oil and coolant temps now stay way within tolerable levels at the track. my temps before the cooler were not so great.

also, what exactly is your reasoning behind the extra "5 feet" of oil lines making your oil pump work harder? its not like the pump is trying to push a shit ton of oil through a 1 inch pipe or something, its just a damn -10AN line that is INLINE with the rest of the oil system.

[Mister.E]

i was reading up on some of the previous info and i noticed there was a lot of talk about thermostats...any particular reason why no one runs an oil cooler from an FD? they have a thermo built right into the core itself.

while we are on the topic though, does anyone happen to know what the inlet and outlet sizes are for an FD oil cooler? R1 dual setups are pretty easy to get over here and im trying to help my friend get his dual coolers ready to be installed but he is unsure of what fittings he needs for the coolers.

[slider2828]

I know a lot of people use -10 AN fittings and such on these setups. Is there any down-side to using -8 AN fittings and lines for a typical setup? I'm using a KA, and I'll be dropping a supercharged KA in the car in about a month or so. I'm only looking for between 200-250rwhp, if that makes any difference.

Should I upgrade to -10AN? Or will the -8AN be sufficient for my needs?

RX-7 Oil cooler is on my doorstep as of this afternoon! Mockup time!

Well here is my experience with the RX7 cooler over the year. A lot of track time....

They have adapters to make the RX7 oil coolers to -8 or -10, there is a hydraulic crane shop near my house that sells it. I have a greddy sandwich plate so I just flip the cooler upside down and use the RX7 thermostat as a drain bolt after I remove the thermostat works great!

Mounting it was stupid. In the end, it REALLY doesn't work well. I put it in front of my intercooler and basically it blocks from airflow than anything, so water temps were high at Laguna Seca and its a REAL high speed hell on your car track. (Break Down City for Lots of cars 5 that day, mostly porsches.) Perfect for city driving and autox and drifting.... But track is another ballgame.

Going to probably move to an earls and side mount it, it just doesn't work front mount.

If anyone interested in my cooler with -8 lines installed, let me know.

[Mister.E]

have you ever tried running a small puller fan on the back of your cooler? i have a 5.4" SPAL fan on my Earl's cooler and that shit works wonders when im out on the track drifting.

[slider2828]

Nah I haven't, unfortunately, the oil cooler is long rather than tall so there wouldn't be a fan that would fit on back of an rx7 cooler.....

[Mister.E]

do you know the dimensions off the top of your head?

here is where i got mine from. they dont sell the 5.4" fan anymore but they have a multitude of different sizes, one of which im sure would fit the cooler fine.

JayCorp Technologies - SPAL Fans (http://www.jaycorptech.com/showcategory.aspx?categoryid=2)

[slider2828]

Nope its shorter than 5" lol..... its long and thick, but not talll...... prety disgusting way to describe but its true

[Mister.E]

oh you have the oil cooler off of an FC? my bad man, i automatically assumed it was a cooler from an FD.

[slider2828]

Sorry bro yeah its an FC...

[LongGrain]

my setup almost complete.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d123/LongGrain/racecar5.jpg

filter is mounted on the shock tower, filter to cooler line is done. I had the engine to filter line done but moved the filter so I have to re do it. then its just cutting the return line to length and putting hose end on.

[slider2828]

Yeah I drive my car on the street still so v-mount is just too risky.......

What you guys think about a 25 row earl's cooler? Too big?

Btw greddy's are -10AN lines.....

[LongGrain]

mine is a daily driver.

street car for life

[Mister.E]

Yeah I drive my car on the street still so v-mount is just too risky.......

What you guys think about a 25 row earl's cooler? Too big?

Btw greddy's are -10AN lines.....

mine is the 25 row cooler, its the shit. i honestly dont think its too big...especially if you track your car

[viperbite]

whys everyone running massive coolers on here? lol but anyways, im going to be using a 5 row an-10 cooler. im using a 9 row for my power steering cooler. an-10 on the low pressure size.

one question, all these sandwich adapters work on ka's aswell correct?

also, for those of you running oil coolers, do you just not worry about purging the oil out of the cooler and lines when you change your oil? an-10 oil cooler system and relocation kit with larger filter can easilly add to an additional 1 to 1.5 quarts over the stock system. draining 4 quarts out and a new filter to me doesnt seem adequate for an oil change especially on a typically beat-on, enthusiast-owned car


which, i jsut found this


http://www.driftworks.com/catalog/products/inline-thermostat-for-oil-cooler-10.html

this would be good for you guys running a cooler inline with your filter.

so, Engine ---- Filter ---- Cooler ---- engine

you would run this

Engine ---- Filter ---- thermostat inlet / outlet --- cooler ---- thermostat return inlet / outlet ---- engine

[Mister.E]

i never drain the cooler core or the lines. i change my oil after every 2 track days though so i dont think its that big of a deal

[viperbite]

yeah my car is daily driven, im using a 5 row and i might even use 3/4 to an-8 lines instead of an-10

im also going to be using a thermostat.

however, i have found some coolers that have temperature gauges on the bottom of the cooler. or a hole for a gauge with a plug in it currently which would make changing oil easier.

another question.

what do you guys do about mess control when changing oil on a relocated oil filter setup? lol that has to be messy anyway you mount it

[GSXRJJordan]

yeah my car is daily driven, im using a 5 row and i might even use 3/4 to an-8 lines instead of an-10

im also going to be using a thermostat.

however, i have found some coolers that have temperature gauges on the bottom of the cooler. or a hole for a gauge with a plug in it currently which would make changing oil easier.

another question.

what do you guys do about mess control when changing oil on a relocated oil filter setup? lol that has to be messy anyway you mount it

It's not that bad - I have mine mounted filter-up on the frame rail, right in front of the alternator, and there's not that much oil in the filter... I just put a towel around the base of the filter, and the oil that drips out doesn't even fill up that one towel.

I'd dig an oil temp gauge port on the cooler for about 8 seconds, I figure that's enough time for me to read the cabin gauge (monitors temp @ block, in stock oil pressure sensor location), check the cooler gauge, and realize they're the fucking same.

[whyrun?]

i am putting together my setup. i got all the fittings, cooler, and sandwich plates.

my question is, can I use a PFTE lined hose?

[w0nderbr3ad]

one of my lines from the thermostat back to the block is leaking. i know which fitting it is but the fitting is already tightened down all the way. its leaking about a handful of clean oil i put in 3 days ago. is there any way to seal that back up? if i take that fitting off after the car has fully cooled down will there be oil coming out of that line if i disconnect it?

[BlitzRPS13]

yeah my car is daily driven, im using a 5 row and i might even use 3/4 to an-8 lines instead of an-10

im also going to be using a thermostat.

however, i have found some coolers that have temperature gauges on the bottom of the cooler. or a hole for a gauge with a plug in it currently which would make changing oil easier.

another question.

what do you guys do about mess control when changing oil on a relocated oil filter setup? lol that has to be messy anyway you mount it

I have my oil filter relocation kit right next to my coolant overflow tank.. and i drain the oil.. and when i goto take the filter off.. there is next to no oil there.. quick wipe down and done. NO MESS.

[GSXRJJordan]

one of my lines from the thermostat back to the block is leaking. i know which fitting it is but the fitting is already tightened down all the way. its leaking about a handful of clean oil i put in 3 days ago. is there any way to seal that back up? if i take that fitting off after the car has fully cooled down will there be oil coming out of that line if i disconnect it?

What kind of fitting is it? If they're -AN, you don't need to torque them down because the flare makes the seal, not the thread - if an aircraft fitting is leaking, most likely its the fitting to the hose, not th fitting itself that's bad.

If it's a pipe thread fitting, you need to drain the oil, drain the cooler/thermostat, and clean the threads (on the hose end and on the block/thermostat end) with some brake cleaner/etc, then apply some oil-resistant thread sealer. Permatex makes one that's commonly available in a white bottle with red writing, it says "High Temperature" but then it says "for use on oil/fuel/power steering systems". That's the one ya want.

[w0nderbr3ad]

its an -an fitting but when i felt the fitting for the hose it was wet underneath. I had pulled it off 3 days prior to clean it up and redo it and it still leaks. Could it be the fitting thats bad?

[singlecamslam]

How do you drain oil coolers? Can you use compressed air if it doesnt have an oil drain? Just wondering for the future.

[w0nderbr3ad]

Only way i know of draining oil coolers is to disconnect it and pour the oil out but even then you won't get all the oil out unless you're continously changing oil.

[ixfxi]

http://clearcorners.com/temp/grex.jpg

bumping this old thread, does anyone know if this oil filter housing has a built in thermostat? i'm working on finalizing my setup and would prefer having a thermostat setup.

[singlecamslam]

I am 90% sure that one you have pictured has a thermo.

[Om1kron]

you got the right one for thermo integration mikey.

[ixfxi]

so just to confirm, big ballers step in..............

the greddy oil filter housing DOES have an integrated thermostat?

furthermore, can anyone supply me with a PN for this item? they would be contributing greatly to this wonderfully useful thread

[japslapsilvia]

so just to confirm, big ballers step in..............

the greddy oil filter housing DOES have an integrated thermostat?

furthermore, can anyone supply me with a PN for this item? they would be contributing greatly to this wonderfully useful thread

yes it does have a thermostat in it

Greddy 12401114 Remote Oil Cooler & Filter Relocation with Thermostat (http://www.240sxmotoring.com/gr12reoilcof.html)

[duynguyenn240]

I ordered the 10' section of -10 hose for my setup, and I had about 1.5' left.

My setup:
Tomei block adapter
Summit filter mount
-10 lines
Earls fittings
Setrab 16 row cooler
Earls thermostat

http://www.khilgers.com/forumpics/240swap/151.jpg
http://www.khilgers.com/forumpics/240swap/152.jpg
http://www.khilgers.com/forumpics/240swap/153.jpg
http://www.khilgers.com/forumpics/240swap/155.jpg

how much is your set up cost????????

[ixfxi]

yes it does have a thermostat in it

Greddy 12401114 Remote Oil Cooler & Filter Relocation with Thermostat (http://www.240sxmotoring.com/gr12reoilcof.html)

thank you very much


beer on me if youre ever in socal

[conrad_s13.5]

yamoto's garage or whatever,...they advertise on here,..they got a pretty sick lookin oil cooler,......worth a check

[ixfxi]

i want to take things a step further and see who here thinks about the weird things i do

i made a previous thread a few weeks ago asking what the spring valve in the OE SR20DET oil filter housing was, which apparently is an emergency bypass valve that opens up and maintains oil pressure should your filter become clogged

so....... folks here ditch that shit and typically go with STANCE, TOMEI, etc... fancy name-brands to replace boring old nissan.. but is that ok? and is that valve useful?

well, lets skip that for a sec and say you decide to go with an oil cooler.. what happens if there is a blockage or kink that prevents your motor from having proper internal oil pressure... we've got a problem, and a big one.

http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/images/1578.jpg
here is my question, has anyone considered buying the above filter adapter (screw on) and having it permanently welded onto their OE housing? the reason i ask this is because i personally dont like screw-on adaptors, i think they are cheap.. but, if combined (welded) with the OE housing.. it could prove to be a worthy investment. this would eliminate any chance of oil blockage failure and provides a very inexpensive MAMOS-solution as opposed to buying bullshit name-brand oil blocks that dont offer the same level of protection as OEM.

.....................

second, i've done a bit of reading and comparing, trying to determine what is better, or more suitable... -8 or -10 sized lines. from what i gather, adding a cooler adds some strain on our pump, its only so strong and can only handle X amount of additional load. i've measured the inlet/outputs of the OE filter housing and block, and like others have noted it doesnt make sense going -10 since it exceeds the size of the OE ports. with that said, i would imagine a stock pump would have an easier time filling and pushing -8 sized with minimal effort, while still flowing the necessary volume of oil. i am not saying that -10 wont work, but i do think that -8 is more appropriate.


last, does anyone have any feedback as to how good or bad the greddy oil filter housing/thermostat works? i am debating as to whether or not that combo unit is ideal, as opposed to going with a basic holder like Earl's supplies and then using a high quality thermostat of choice (mocal). the greddy filter is a nice solution but it may fail 5-10 years from now and its nice knowing that you can get mocal or other brands so easily. i doubt greddy will offer JUST the thermostat internals for maintenance/replacement. i know i am thinking far down but thats the name of the game. i know that one benefit in going with the earl's housing is that i can chose a filter housing for say a supra turbo, and use higher quality filters as opposed to the OE nissan (which arent bad, but with the increased oil capacity a bigger filter would be nice)

feel free to chime in, pros

[fromxtor]

I assemble and test high, medium, and low pressure rubber and teflon hose at work. And I don't see any added benefits to running -10 and opposed to -8.

[duynguyenn240]

i want to take things a step further and see who here thinks about the weird things i do

i made a previous thread a few weeks ago asking what the spring valve in the OE SR20DET oil filter housing was, which apparently is an emergency bypass valve that opens up and maintains oil pressure should your filter become clogged

so....... folks here ditch that shit and typically go with STANCE, TOMEI, etc... fancy name-brands to replace boring old nissan.. but is that ok? and is that valve useful?

well, lets skip that for a sec and say you decide to go with an oil cooler.. what happens if there is a blockage or kink that prevents your motor from having proper internal oil pressure... we've got a problem, and a big one.

http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/images/1578.jpg
here is my question, has anyone considered buying the above filter adapter (screw on) and having it permanently welded onto their OE housing? the reason i ask this is because i personally dont like screw-on adaptors, i think they are cheap.. but, if combined (welded) with the OE housing.. it could prove to be a worthy investment. this would eliminate any chance of oil blockage failure and provides a very inexpensive MAMOS-solution as opposed to buying bullshit name-brand oil blocks that dont offer the same level of protection as OEM.

.....................

second, i've done a bit of reading and comparing, trying to determine what is better, or more suitable... -8 or -10 sized lines. from what i gather, adding a cooler adds some strain on our pump, its only so strong and can only handle X amount of additional load. i've measured the inlet/outputs of the OE filter housing and block, and like others have noted it doesnt make sense going -10 since it exceeds the size of the OE ports. with that said, i would imagine a stock pump would have an easier time filling and pushing -8 sized with minimal effort, while still flowing the necessary volume of oil. i am not saying that -10 wont work, but i do think that -8 is more appropriate.


last, does anyone have any feedback as to how good or bad the greddy oil filter housing/thermostat works? i am debating as to whether or not that combo unit is ideal, as opposed to going with a basic holder like Earl's supplies and then using a high quality thermostat of choice (mocal). the greddy filter is a nice solution but it may fail 5-10 years from now and its nice knowing that you can get mocal or other brands so easily. i doubt greddy will offer JUST the thermostat internals for maintenance/replacement. i know i am thinking far down but thats the name of the game. i know that one benefit in going with the earl's housing is that i can chose a filter housing for say a supra turbo, and use higher quality filters as opposed to the OE nissan (which arent bad, but with the increased oil capacity a bigger filter would be nice)

feel free to chime in, pros

I think that the An-8 would be better than An-10. You would have more pressure for example when you spray water through a hose and just like the twin scroll manifold the smaller the hose the more pressure you have so you dont have to put stress on the oil pump.

[ixfxi]

a few facts for everyone:
- oe sr20det oil filter housing inlet and outlets measure anywhere from 12-13mm in diameter
8AN hose ID = 12.7mm
10AN hose ID = 14.2mm

- oe sr20det filter (15208-53J00)
3/4" -16 thread pitch
filter dimensions: 3.25 x 2.6"
o-ring size: 55mm ID / 61mm OD


i decided to skip using the OE housing regardless if it has the pressure relief valve, mostly because it adds some bulk and restriction to the system.

last item i am trying to source is a remote filter housing that accepts the toyota v8 filters which the toyota folks use with good results. filter specs:

- oe toyota v8 land cruiser filter (90915-YZZD3)
3/4" -16 thread pitch
filter dimensions: 4.0 x 3.0"
o-ring size: 61mm ID / 72mm OD

if anyone has a remote filter housing w/ thermostat that they can suggest, feel free to post it up.

if you guys like to research things to death, like me... here is another interesting link worth reading: Installing a Full Flow, Thermostat Controlled Oil Cooler & Remote Filter - SupraMania (http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62838)

[BTplaya]

Bumpin this cause of all the great info!

I have had my set-up on my SR for a while and I seems to work great. But I have a horrible tick in the head on start up. I have tried everything up top but it doesn't help. I have noticed most of you guys run the filter a lot closer than mine. I mounted mine under the battery tray below the light.

Does this seem to far away? Could I not be getting the oil I need at low RPM? How long of a line do you have going into the filter?

I have a oil pressure gauge and it never gets below 18 psi at idle.

Thanks

[310R]

Good rule of thumb,the filter shouldn't be more than 18" away from the block.This comes from some guys I know that roadrace.That's how I am setting mine up.If I finish it this weekend I'll post some pics.

[GSXRJJordan]

18psi at warm idle is fine, 18psi cold is a problem. Most likely the tick is just your lifters, I wouldn't really worry about it, and relocating your filter closer isn't going to make a huge difference.

[roboticnissan]

If you have your filter upside down when you relocate it, is there any oil in there or does it drain back in?

[GSXRJJordan]

If you have your filter upside down when you relocate it, is there any oil in there or does it drain back in?

Most filters have an anti-drainback valve. That's actually one of the key components that makes one oil filter better than another.

To take your question a little further, this does not guarantee that you'll have proper oiling on startup, but it does certainly help, and no, filter orientation doesn't really matter.

[310R]

This is why you use a thermostat,it doesn't flow through the cooler until the thermostat opens .I suggest running thermostat to solve your problems.:smash:

[GSXRJJordan]

This is why you use a thermostat,it doesn't flow through the cooler until the thermostat opens .I suggest running thermostat to solve your problems.:smash:

A thermostat certainly does flow oil! The idea is that it doesn't flow oil to the cooler until the oil temp comes up. You still have the possibility for dry starts and empty oil filters on startup.

[Def]

My Mocal sandwich plate flows a small amount of oil at all times. I'm guessing this is by design to keep air out of the system before it opens and your motor gets a huge gulp of air in the oil system.

[godrifttoday]

bumppppppppp

[Om1kron]

you bumped this thread for?

[godrifttoday]

i had posted a pic but it was meant for my for sale thread and i posted it here accedently so i remove it and didnt know what to put lol so i bumped it lol

[abunai the drifter]

question Im planing to runa oilcooler as well and a thrmostat but not sure what temp I wanted to know should I have be the same temp as my engine with the nismothermostat or keep it a the stock thermostat temp? I hear going to cold is just as bad as too hot any input

[GSXRJJordan]

question Im planing to runa oilcooler as well and a thrmostat but not sure what temp I wanted to know should I have be the same temp as my engine with the nismothermostat or keep it a the stock thermostat temp? I hear going to cold is just as bad as too hot any input

All the oil thermos I've seen (including the ones I stock) open around 200*F. Healthy oil temps are commonly between 200-220*F... Opening any earlier than that is counter-productive.

[keMz]

i read this thread word for word, did more reading in this thread then i think ive done in the last 2 years... lol

Question1: is the greddy oil filter relocation kit -10 fittings? i got a good deal on it locally and wanna turn it into a custom oil cooler setup.
Question2: in Hawaii where the temp is pretty consistent year around, is the thermo for the oil cooler recommended.
I run my water therm gutted, the sucker is always open and my gauge stays cool year around to give you an idea

Heres my new thread, i didnt know if i should bump this or not, but i need answers and this will get your attention

http://zilvia.net/f/engine-tech/330482-custom-oil-cooler-help.html#post3525348

[PoorMans180SX]

Question2: in Hawaii where the temp is pretty consistent year around, is the thermo for the oil cooler recommended?

[/I][URL]]

All the oil thermos I've seen (including the ones I stock) open around 200*F. Healthy oil temps are commonly between 200-220*F... Opening any earlier than that is counter-productive.

Oil cooler without oil thermostat = not so good.

Cold oil is not good for your engine life. You want your oil to get to 200* as fast as possible, and stay right around there.

[GSXRJJordan]

i read this thread word for word, did more reading in this thread then i think ive done in the last 2 years... lol

Question1: is the greddy oil filter relocation kit -10 fittings? i got a good deal on it locally and wanna turn it into a custom oil cooler setup.
Question2: in Hawaii where the temp is pretty consistent year around, is the thermo for the oil cooler recommended.
I run my water therm gutted, the sucker is always open and my gauge stays cool year around to give you an idea

Heres my new thread, i didnt know if i should bump this or not, but i need answers and this will get your attention

http://zilvia.net/f/engine-tech/330482-custom-oil-cooler-help.html#post3525348

I responded in your thread, but as I posted earlier in this thread, opening either thermostat early isn't "better". Cooler than optimal is better than hotter than optimal, but it's still not optimal.

That being said, if you're worried about spending the $100 on the thermo and another $60 on fittings for it, make sure the oil's warm before giving it much load/rpms and your oil will most likely never fall below where it needs to be in HI.

I ran my SR with my oil cooler kit and no oil thermo for a year or so in Socal to see if the temps stayed above 180*, and it was only in 60* or colder weather with long periods of idling or low rpm/load cruising that saw my oil temps drop to 160* or so.

[kamechikara]

Yo

Does anyone have any input as to how difficult it is/suggestions for installing the oil block adapter? I am installing a filter relocation and cooler setup this weekend. The stock oil block unit is a pain in the asscrack to get at. I am just curious how much frustration or removal of surrounding parts is necessary to remove and reinstall the adapter (Tomei adapter). Should I take the filter off first?...it's a bit stuck at the moment...I plan to do this with the motor in the car and without a lift.

Also, will I need to reattach the stock oil pressure sensor? I would like to run a oil temp and oil press gauge off of the Tomei unit if possible. Any advise or input is appreciated!

[BTplaya]

The stock block adapter is easy to get off. I pulled the filter first and it was just a few allen blots after that.

Also I never put the stock oil pressure sender back on. I have never got a light or had any problems. Maybe someone else can give more info on this.

[GSXRJJordan]

The stock block adapter is easy to get off. I pulled the filter first and it was just a few allen blots after that.

Also I never put the stock oil pressure sender back on. I have never got a light or had any problems. Maybe someone else can give more info on this.

Agreed, stock unit is easy to get off. I rarely wire in the stock sensor because I'm using oil pressure gauges on every car I work with, but you certainly could. You'd just have to get a 1/8" NPT male -> 1/8" BSPT female adapter.

[codyace]

The stock block adapter is easy to get off. I pulled the filter first and it was just a few allen blots after that.

Also I never put the stock oil pressure sender back on. I have never got a light or had any problems. Maybe someone else can give more info on this.

By the time the stock light comes on, it's already to late.

[BTplaya]

^ thats why I have an autometer staring right at me.

[GSXRJJordan]

By the time the stock light comes on, it's already to late.

Yeah it's basically telling you that you don't have an oil pickup attached to the pump anymore, or your pan fell off. Or you're just dumb and never put oil in it. Still, if it comes on and you shut down right away, might be salvageable.

^ thats why I have an autometer staring right at me.

Yup, you and everyone else that can spend $60 to know if their engine's going to live through the day.

[ETHANOLED SR]

lazy fucks. i would rather spend 200 dollars on my motor, than 200 dollars to keep my pretty nails manacured and my hands free of scrapes........

if you work on your own car your hands will get fucked up. adding another 5 feet of oil lines into your car and making your oil pump work harder is fucking retarded. if youve changed your oil more than 1 time on your sr than you realize its not that bad. OFR are party tricks, like turbo timers, if you are too lazy to spend 30 seconds in your car letting it cool down or too lazy to reach into a tight spot to change an oil filter. dont buy a car take the bus.

-8 is on the small side, but shouldn't "make or break" it. Why not -10? Can't find room or something? Skull and Bones (manonegra's) dist block has -10 :) Plus, every cooler I've seen that's worth a damn uses -10...



Haha, wow, lots of hate there.

First of all, the extra few feet of line is not important, in the least. Be real. When adding an oil cooler, there's no additional line at all, it sits right in line with the cooler, you douche.

You joined in Jan 2008. I've had SRs since 2005. I'd venture to say that my opinion is "non-trivial" when it comes to this shit, and I say an oil relocation is a blessing, especially when it's so fuckin cheap.

Here it comes...

.. wait for it...

THERE IS NO DOWNSIDE. Sure, I guess you could say the same for turbo timers, but I don't use one.

The $140 I spent on my oil cooler and relocation was money well spent, considering the effect is has had on my oil and coolant temps, not to mention not having to "fuck up my manicure" every time I reach for that goddamned filter.



^^^ LMAO!!!
I don't see the need for an oil filter relocation at all! I've changed filters on many cars and the SR20 has to be the easiest by far! True you might get some scrapes or a little dirt on your hands but Jesus Christ man, what's the big deal? Put on some gloves if it's that bad!!!
I don't understand how having a filter relocation is so important but a turbo timer isn't. I mean in my opinion, time is money and time is freaking precious and I can't imagine having to sit there and wait every time before exiting the car!!! That's what the timer is there for!!! Even good for N/A motors! Imagine doing this every single time! Add up how much time you'll spend a year just waiting while car cools down! lol.
An oil cooler is *definitely* a great idea for the SR20 motor! But no need for filter relocation unless it's really that much of a hassle for you to get it off, or in case you're worried about your hands getting dirty and scraped or breaking a nail, or if you just want more plumbing in your car for cosmetic reasons only! JDM tight yo!!!

But seriously at the end of the day, this is only my opinion!
I was looking into getting this unit from circuit sports for an oil cooler setup while maintaining stock filter location.
http://i691.photobucket.com/albums/vv275/turbosr123/SR20%20Parts/phase2motorsports_2127_246904898.jpg
Circuit Sports Angled Oil Cooler Adapter : Nissan SR20 (http://www.phase2motortrend.com/cispanoilfia.html)

Also, I am running this huge Fram filter on my setup which is probably 3 times the size of the OEM one, if that's the reason for getting an oil filter relocation. There are other options for filters that fit the stock M20 & 3/4-16UNF threads and are bigger!!!
http://i691.photobucket.com/albums/vv275/turbosr123/SR24%20Beast%20build/SR24BEAST206.jpg

[codyace]

but a turbo timer isn't. I mean in my opinion, time is money and time is freaking precious and I can't imagine having to sit there and wait every time before exiting the car!!! That's what the timer is there for!!! Even good for N/A motors! Imagine doing this every single time! Add up h

Turbo timers are the single bigest gimmic/gadget/waste out there in turbo land. KNow what the best way to properly cool off the turbo? Drive like a human a mile before shutting it off, and then keying off. Why you ask? A turbo timer just sits there at very low oil pressure, running...drip drip drip. What you really need/best is to just drive slowly before keying off...get some good cooler oil against that CHRA, and some pressure.

I make a point to just do this, and have never had an issue. Heck goto a track day and see how many turbo timers you see/here...none...goto the Sonic on a Saturday night and every 'racer' has one...


JDM tight yo!!!

Says the guy with the HKS oil catch can ... 'just saying' bfore you throw stones, be sure not to be the same way.




FWIW I understand your point, and I totally agree. I'm almost sure Jordan does as well. Our point is in the event of running a cooler based setup.

FWIW: I wouldn't trust a cheap C/S sandwich plate to run my oil cooler setup.

[ETHANOLED SR]

Turbo timers are the single bigest gimmic/gadget/waste out there in turbo land. KNow what the best way to properly cool off the turbo? Drive like a human a mile before shutting it off, and then keying off. Why you ask? A turbo timer just sits there at very low oil pressure, running...drip drip drip. What you really need/best is to just drive slowly before keying off...get some good cooler oil against that CHRA, and some pressure.

I make a point to just do this, and have never had an issue. Heck goto a track day and see how many turbo timers you see/here...none...goto the Sonic on a Saturday night and every 'racer' has one...



Says the guy with the HKS oil catch can ... 'just saying' bfore you throw stones, be sure not to be the same way.




FWIW I understand your point, and I totally agree. I'm almost sure Jordan does as well. Our point is in the event of running a cooler based setup.

FWIW: I wouldn't trust a cheap C/S sandwich plate to run my oil cooler setup.


Like I said it's only in my opinion at the end of the day! I wasn't aware of any stone throwing, Is that what you think?

Driving like a human is not the same as letting the car idle for a good minute before it shuts off. The same goes for warm up! Just because nobody on track days runs a timer now doesn't make it the biggest gimmick all of a sudden! I also make a point and never had an issue running a timer since my first SR20 back in 1999!!!

FYI!!! The catch can with the HKS sticker on it was from a friend. It came the way you see it used, I ran it on my old setup and thought I would run it on the new one too. I didn't know that fell under JDM tightness! lol!

What's wrong with the C/S plate? Because it's not Tomei and doesn't cost near $200, we automatically assume it's crap. I mean it's a machined piece of metal with fittings and rings, not rocket science here!!! Has anyone had leak issues with the Circuit Sports plate? If so, maybe I'll look into another brand!

I only use high end products on my builds, but I just don't see myself wasting over $400+ on a filter relocation and an expensive oil block piece when there's absolutely no need!!!

[Def]

I ran my SR with my oil cooler kit and no oil thermo for a year or so in Socal to see if the temps stayed above 180*, and it was only in 60* or colder weather with long periods of idling or low rpm/load cruising that saw my oil temps drop to 160* or so.

I never see over about 170 deg F oil on the street, and that's in 110 deg F TX heat.

I think the GReddy oil pan offers quite a lot of oil cooling compared to the stock pan. My oil cooler never comes into play on the street, and at lower power levels it was actually fine on track. The cooler definitely is needed on track over about 200 rwhp.

[singlecamslam]

On my sr i was going to use a tomei oil block with this thermostat.
http://jdub.supramania.com/Oil%20Pics/Earls%20Thermo.jpg
its an Earls thermo. Its bulky as shit, uses -10 lines.

[codyace]

Driving like a human is not the same as letting the car idle for a good minute before it shuts off. The same goes for warm up! Just because nobody on track days runs a timer now doesn't make it the biggest gimmick all of a sudden! I also make a point and never had an issue running a timer since my first SR20 back in 1999!!!

Driving like a regular guy, nice and normal back to your garage, and parking it, is free, and does a better job of cooling off the turbo....glad you had no issues with your timer....I've had similar non issues for just as long as you've had turbo cars (well 2000 for me) too. Track/Car/Truck etc....

...so while you say the '400 dollar filter relocation' is a waste, well...that turbo timer ranks near it in regard to waste.

It's all down to how you wanna drive. Beating the snot out of it, keying off, and grabbing the couch and remote is dumb, timer or not.


FYI!!! The catch can with the HKS sticker on it was from a friend. It came the way you see it used, I ran it on my old setup and thought I would run it on the new one too. I didn't kno that fell under JDM tightness! lol!

Well, you mentioned the remote filter was JDM tyte, I as just pointing out your JDM tyte sticker. Yea your friend...;)



What's wrong with the C/S plate? Because it's not Tomei and doesn't cost near $200, we automatically assume it's crap. I mean it's a machined piece of metal with fittings and rings, not rocket science here!!! Has anyone had leak issues with the Circuit Sports plate? If so, maybe I'll look into another brand!

I have a C/S oil filter block It didn't lean up, and didn't seal with new OEM o ring plug thingies. Laid it on table, not flat. Some quick machine work fixed it, but that's not the point, that's just terrible QC...but what do you expect for knock off stuff? It works now, but I had to modify it. I try to keep my opinions on products from experience.


I only use high end products on my builds, but I just don't see myself wasting over $400+ on a filter relocation and an expensive oil block piece when there's absolutely no need!!!

400 dollars was a bit silly on yor end. I built my relocation for under 200. In fact it was probably closer to 150 total. Not bad. I chose to run one as it allowed me to run a big domestic filter.

[kamechikara]

The stock block adapter is easy to get off. I pulled the filter first and it was just a few allen blots after that.

Also I never put the stock oil pressure sender back on. I have never got a light or had any problems. Maybe someone else can give more info on this.


Thanks everyone. Install complete. Getting the block off was a little tricky because of the positioning and the oil haha. Also I was reclipping the pressure sensor unit and the wire just broke so I decided to forget about it! Gotta get a real pressure gauge but for now just the temp gauge will be an improvement. I'll post a pic or two once I have the cooler mounted.

I'm very happy with the Tomei unit and the setrab cooler/AN lines. Buying knock parts in my experience has always been a mistake. If you want your motor to be reliable and fun, don't count on parts that are not track proven. Thanks again for the tips.

[Mister.E]

Question1: is the greddy oil filter relocation kit -10 fittings?

The answer is yes. I ran an oil cooler setup in conjunction with my Greddy Oil Filter relocation setup and the lines that i used were -10 AN. Everything worked perfectly together and there werent any leaks. I actually plan on doing this again for the new car once i drop the SR in.

[GSXRJJordan]

Ethanoled SR has a sweet setup, but notice he's got an aftermarket intake mani ~ of course it's easy to change filters lol.

I offer relocation kits for less than $100 when purchased with an oil cooler kit. It's silly not to get one.
Also, please run a better oil filter. Fram's plastic anti-drainback valves leak and their cases are cardboard not metal. The HP1 is the only half-decent one, and I stopped using that and now run Amsoil Ea filters for longer drain intervals and piece of mind.
Lastly, S14 SR's are the only Nissan motors that use the M20 thread pattern for oil filters, S13 SR's and RB's all use 3/4-16 just like Ford/Chrysler.

Cody is 'cheaper'/more frugal than I am. It took me years to see this, but he is 100% a value guy, whereas I splurge to have 'nice shit' sometimes. He says a relocation is worth it but a turbo timer is not, and I wholeheartedly agree.

I can verify from my work in professional racing that no one runs turbo timers lol.

[Om1kron]

I would like to say for the record, I run a turbo timer for no good reason what so ever. Sometimes I leave it on and walk into work, most any other time if my water temp is below 70c I just shut the car off.

[sidedrifts13]

great info

[ETHANOLED SR]

Driving like a regular guy, nice and normal back to your garage, and parking it, is free, and does a better job of cooling off the turbo....glad you had no issues with your timer....I've had similar non issues for just as long as you've had turbo cars (well 2000 for me) too. Track/Car/Truck etc....

...so while you say the '400 dollar filter relocation' is a waste, well...that turbo timer ranks near it in regard to waste.

It's all down to how you wanna drive. Beating the snot out of it, keying off, and grabbing the couch and remote is dumb, timer or not.

Well, you mentioned the remote filter was JDM tyte, I as just pointing out your JDM tyte sticker. Yea your friend...;)

I have a C/S oil filter block It didn't lean up, and didn't seal with new OEM o ring plug thingies. Laid it on table, not flat. Some quick machine work fixed it, but that's not the point, that's just terrible QC...but what do you expect for knock off stuff? It works now, but I had to modify it. I try to keep my opinions on products from experience.

400 dollars was a bit silly on yor end. I built my relocation for under 200. In fact it was probably closer to 150 total. Not bad. I chose to run one as it allowed me to run a big domestic filter.



I say $400+ as in the Tomei or stance block + a greddy relocation + lines and fittings and all! You built yours for close to $150 because you used the Circuit Sports sandwich plate just like what I had in mind. If you're saying it needed machining to fix then I might look into a Mocal unit instead! But you should've taken it back and had it exchanged! Regardless, they shouldn't be selling new parts that don't even fit right!!! Bad QC is right!!!
A $60 timer is not bad compared to a $400+ oil relocation setup!

"yoni nismo" will vouche for handing me that catch can! lol. It's still a good can just needs some polishing!

Thanks everyone. Install complete. Getting the block off was a little tricky because of the positioning and the oil haha. Also I was reclipping the pressure sensor unit and the wire just broke so I decided to forget about it! Gotta get a real pressure gauge but for now just the temp gauge will be an improvement. I'll post a pic or two once I have the cooler mounted.

I'm very happy with the Tomei unit and the setrab cooler/AN lines. Buying knock parts in my experience has always been a mistake. If you want your motor to be reliable and fun, don't count on parts that are not track proven. Thanks again for the tips.


Good to hear you got it hooked up and are happy! Knowing myself I'll probably end up buying an expensive name brand piece anyways! Haha! I don't want the relocation option just a nice Setrab cooler setup!


Ethanoled SR has a sweet setup, but notice he's got an aftermarket intake mani ~ of course it's easy to change filters lol.

I offer relocation kits for less than $100 when purchased with an oil cooler kit. It's silly not to get one.
Also, please run a better oil filter. Fram's plastic anti-drainback valves leak and their cases are cardboard not metal. The HP1 is the only half-decent one, and I stopped using that and now run Amsoil Ea filters for longer drain intervals and piece of mind.
Lastly, S14 SR's are the only Nissan motors that use the M20 thread pattern for oil filters, S13 SR's and RB's all use 3/4-16 just like Ford/Chrysler.

Cody is 'cheaper'/more frugal than I am. It took me years to see this, but he is 100% a value guy, whereas I splurge to have 'nice shit' sometimes. He says a relocation is worth it but a turbo timer is not, and I wholeheartedly agree.

I can verify from my work in professional racing that no one runs turbo timers lol.


I had my first SR20 swap back in '99 and I didn't have any aftermarket manifolds till later on. I still never had a problem reaching the filter! Yes, it's much easier with my new setup now but I never had a hard time before either!

What oil cooler/filter relocation kit do you sell?
Thanks on the filter info! I need to do some research on filters! I'll be changing the Fram one right after the break in period but I'll look into the Amsoil and better brand filters for sure!

Dude! of course no one in professional racing runs turbo timers! lol. Why would they? It's a race track only built vehicle! I'm saying turbo timers are good for daily/street/track driven cars that require start up and cool downs on a regular basis thus where the timer would help!

[kamechikara]

Everything is running right and no leaks. I used high temp thread lock on every line to make sure. Total cost: Tomei oil block adapter new = $172 shipped, Setrab cooler + AN lines + filter relocation bracket (all used) = $225...$397 total.

I am considering getting an oil pressure gauge as my final gauge...any suggestions for yes buy it or no don't bother? Thank planet zilvia!

[Mister.E]

it's never bad to have a pressure guage. i highly recommend it.

[japslapsilvia]

pressure gauge should be a MUST when using an oil cooler...filter relocation...etc...

[GSXRJJordan]

Everything is running right and no leaks. I used high temp thread lock on every line to make sure. Total cost: Tomei oil block adapter new = $172 shipped, Setrab cooler + AN lines + filter relocation bracket (all used) = $225...$397 total.

I am considering getting an oil pressure gauge as my final gauge...any suggestions for yes buy it or no don't bother? Thank planet zilvia!

You got some very good deals.

it's never bad to have a pressure guage. i highly recommend it.

pressure gauge should be a MUST when using an oil cooler...filter relocation...etc...

This. An oil pressure gauge is the second most important gauge, water temp being the first. You should DEFINITELY have one.

Your oil pressure changes frequently, watching it for a while will give you an idea of what "normal" levels are depending on operation. Eventually you'll get to the point where you can spot 'abnormal' behavior and that will hopefully save your engine in the event of a leak/oil pump going/oil pickup falling off/getting clogged/etc.

[kamechikara]

You got some very good deals.





This. An oil pressure gauge is the second most important gauge, water temp being the first. You should DEFINITELY have one.

Your oil pressure changes frequently, watching it for a while will give you an idea of what "normal" levels are depending on operation. Eventually you'll get to the point where you can spot 'abnormal' behavior and that will hopefully save your engine in the event of a leak/oil pump going/oil pickup falling off/getting clogged/etc.

Great I though this was the case but wanted reassurance before going to pickup a $200 gauge today. After this I am sold on it!

[kamechikara]

Anyone know a safe oil pressure range in k/pa? By range I mean warm at idle and up to full throttle in 3rd or 4th?

[GSXRJJordan]

Anyone know a safe oil pressure range in k/pa? By range I mean warm at idle and up to full throttle in 3rd or 4th?

It varies a little bit by engine, but as a guideline you should always be above a bar (~14psi, ~100 kPa), and increase by approximately a bar (another 100kPa) per 1000rpm. I've found modern motors to have more pressure at idle than that, and reach 60-70psi at high rpm normally. Your cold start pressures will be quite a bit higher than your 'hot' pressures, that's normal.

[kamechikara]

It varies a little bit by engine, but as a guideline you should always be above a bar (~14psi, ~100 kPa), and increase by approximately a bar (another 100kPa) per 1000rpm. I've found modern motors to have more pressure at idle than that, and reach 60-70psi at high rpm normally. Your cold start pressures will be quite a bit higher than your 'hot' pressures, that's normal.

Thanks for sharing the knowledge!

[sonomadrifter]

Oil coolers. Do them.

http://i477.photobucket.com/albums/rr133/mnkymits/Driftwater/DSC_01482.jpg

http://i477.photobucket.com/albums/rr133/mnkymits/car3.jpg

http://i477.photobucket.com/albums/rr133/mnkymits/shitty/car6.jpg

You can kinda see the orange fliter on the side, makes changing super easy.

[mrphams]

I'm in the process of putting together my oil cooler, and have some questions about the 1/2NPT fittings... thought this might be the best place to post :)

So the NPT are a tapered thread, so when you tighten them the fittings 'bite' into each other. I'm just not sure how tight I'm meant to tighten and whether what I've done is correct:

http://stereosonics.com.au/mestuff/thumbs/imgp3769.jpg (http://stereosonics.com.au/mestuff/?v=imgp3769.jpg)

The fitting has gone in about 1/2 way and it's pretty damn tight. Does that look right?

Also I would told to use a thread sealant, something like Loctite 567 Hydraulic Thread Sealant. Is this what most people use?


Cheers!

[codyace]

Cody is 'cheaper'/more frugal than I am. It took me years to see this, but he is 100% a value guy, whereas I splurge to have 'nice shit' sometimes. He says a relocation is worth it but a turbo timer is not, and I wholeheartedly agree.

Hahah I love it :D I guess I'm just about doing the mimimum of what works...keep it simple to me. A turbo timer is absolutly go go gadget kinda stuff, with no real purpose. A relocation kinda is too, but if you're running a cooler and a thermo, it's only a few bucks more to do it right.

Give me my steel fittings and black fabric hydaulic hose tho! ;)



I can verify from my work in professional racing that no one runs turbo timers lol.

Damn straight!

This is probably where I get my bare bones mindset from. The purpose of my car is reliable power...but easily repairable, and easy replaceable parts. There is NOTHING more frustrating than a custom one off part that has no substitute breaking at the track, and forcing you to 'throw away' the weekend. I biuld my stuff wih convenience in mind, or at least interchangeability. I alway say that if I break down in BumbleLarky, Arkansas, I wana be able to roll into a parts store and get what I need (for the most part)

[ETHANOLED SR]

I'm in the process of putting together my oil cooler, and have some questions about the 1/2NPT fittings... thought this might be the best place to post :)

So the NPT are a tapered thread, so when you tighten them the fittings 'bite' into each other. I'm just not sure how tight I'm meant to tighten and whether what I've done is correct:

http://stereosonics.com.au/mestuff/thumbs/imgp3769.jpg (http://stereosonics.com.au/mestuff/?v=imgp3769.jpg)

The fitting has gone in about 1/2 way and it's pretty damn tight. Does that look right?

Also I would told to use a thread sealant, something like Loctite 567 Hydraulic Thread Sealant. Is this what most people use?


Cheers!


It looks about right! You might be able to go a couple more turns but I can't say for sure by looking at a pic. From my experience NPT gets tight and you have to feel for it. Just keep turning till they get tight and snug!
Remember if you're using bigger wrenches it's easier to over tighten things and break the fitting!

Don't use loctite, you don't need it! You wanna be able to remove them if you have to later on! Loctite will not help in preventing leaks, NPT threads will hold real good due to their taper design threads.

[Def]

Oil coolers. Do them.

http://i477.photobucket.com/albums/rr133/mnkymits/Driftwater/DSC_01482.jpg

http://i477.photobucket.com/albums/rr133/mnkymits/car3.jpg

http://i477.photobucket.com/albums/rr133/mnkymits/shitty/car6.jpg

You can kinda see the orange fliter on the side, makes changing super easy.

Running your oil/PS coolers in front of your IC sounds like a bad idea to me... I rock my oil cooler right where your oil filter is located. Hit about 220-230 deg F on track driving "flat out."