Nikeboy355

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I parted my S13 out a couple of months ago and recently pulled it back out to started it's new rebuild... Version 2.0 if you like...

I ordered a cage from S&W Racecars and could use some help figuring out what configuration I should weld it in as well as any other chassis prep I should take care of now that the car is almost back to a bare chassis...

Here is the specs on the cage:
10 point
1-3/4 x .120" wall DOM tubing
Mild steel
Nascar style driver side door bar setup
Gusset plates (Dimple die plates... whatever)

Cage will be TIG welded...

Mild Steel - DOM, 10 Point Roll Cage, 10 Point Roll Cage Race Car Dragster Chassis, Rollbars, Cages, Suspensions, Parts



I know others have purchased their cages and they look great... I put up an album of other peoples cages that myself and the fabricator are getting ideas from...

Picasa Web Albums - Nitin - Chassis work

I wanted to tie in the front suspension as well as create a permanent strut bar... We were also thinking of spot welding the chassis from the inside (I have to learn more about this)...

I would like the chassis to be stiff but I understand that NASA/SCCA rules don't allow for the cage to go through the firewall... That might be OK since this car will hopefully only see Time Attack competition duty which is a little bit more relaxed...

Structurally what should I understand about installing this cage and prepping the chassis?... My fabricator is excellent and we want to do this correct... Safety first and chassis rigidity a close second...

















Under the hood will be another NA KA that I'm rebuilding right now... This time with a 350Z six speed trans behind it though... Stay tuned...

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OMGZBRO

sounds nice cant wait to see the fitment

wow-thats-a-cool-car

subscribed
can't wait for it to be done

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steve shadows

Not too stiff.

I thought your car was too stiff before without the cage fyi.

I can handle the 8/6 though because Ill be using R-Comps only although 7/5 might still be in the works (progressive springs)

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racepar1

If I ever build my cage I plan on running a bar from each strut tower to a central point on the underdash bar. I will weld them to the firewall as well and probably re-enforce the firewall where the bars go through. I would also run a strut tower bar as well in the front, probably the carbing aluminum one to save weight. What I want to do to brace the front end on the bottom is build a custom tubular front subframe where the subframe and the tension rod brackets/power brace are one solid unit. If you want to seriously campaign the car in time attack you should also attach the roll bars to the a and b pillars for extra rigidity. I plan on attaching my main roll hoop to the chasis directly above the front mounting points for the rear subframe. The rear downbars will be attached to the strut towers, NOT the wheelwells like every pre-fabbed cage I have ever seen. I will have a permanently welded in rear strut bar and a welded in x bar that attaches to the rear strut towers and directly above the rear mounting points for the rear subframe. If you want it as a track only car and have no need for passengers I hear a diagonal bar that goes from the top of the roll-hoop, behind the driver's head, to where the front cage leg attaches to the floor, on the passenger's side, makes a HUGE difference.

racepar1

There is no such thing as "too stiff", that is purely a myth.

Om1kron

That's what she said... j/k

cant wait to see the progress, I love build and fabrication threads. subscribed.

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Wayne

Dutchmalmiss

Subscribed. I was waiting for the comeback haha.

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Pignose, biaaatch.

seto_s14

hell yeh for sticking with the KA (kick ass) engine lol

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my ninja

ProjNightshade

man, I'm subscribed. The car looks gorgeous. Makes me want to find another hatch chassis to make a sil-80 all the more.

Can you give us a little insight on the na ka plans? I'm pretty interested in what you have up your sleeve.

Dutchmalmiss

Hey Nitin, how much power do you plan on making? What diff are you using with that tranny?

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Pignose, biaaatch.

steve shadows

you sure about that? haha

not for drifting. there isnt

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racepar1

I got the idea that you were referring to chasis stiffness. It is not possible to make a chasis too stiff, 0 flex is ideal there. For suspension stiffness (springs and sways) it is totally possible to go too stiff. As a matter of fact 99.9999999% of coilovers come right on the verge of being too stiff, especially for street tires.

Nikeboy355

The longblock will be stock and will actually be a copy of my last rebuilt KA that made 155WHP, 155WTQ...

This is the graph with and without the silencer in the exhaust...



But the plan is to have some fun with adding ITBs and a custom header that will exit somewhere on the driver side of the car... I'm not sure what tuning I will go with... Either milk what a tuned ECU can do or a full standalone... And E85 fuel...

So in summary:
OEM rebuild longblock
GSXR ITB setup
Custom header with side exit
E85 fuel
Tuned ECU or standalone

With the 350Z trans I will end up with an effective final drive around 4.6...
A nice clutch and a helical LSD will finish it off...

The longterm plan is to have a complete head package and a twin scroll turbo setup... I already have an EVO turbo lying around...

The other plans for the car involve a lot of aero and suspension development that I'm learning myself as we go along... The last setup was pretty basic and I've watched my S2000 friends really advance a lot in those areas...

I hope it all works well...

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Nikeboy355

And here is some examples of my fabricator's work...
He can make anything...







And this is how he rolls... He has to rent that RV for $500/day just to take the truck out to Glamis... Tight...

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ProjNightshade

I'm really interested in how you're gonna do this. That's why I'm asking alot of questions. I have a set of GSXR 750 tb's, but I never got around to doing anything with them.

I had considered going the megasquirt way, but the idea of a trigger wheel on the crank pulley or rigging up something to work in a way it wasn't intended kinda turned me off.

Like I said, I'm watching closely. Your fabricator looks like he does amazing work.

forum04pl

Can't wait to see the fabbing

FABitALL

yea.. come on nikeboy. wats up with the updates on the fabbing??

Nikeboy355

The cage comes in at the end of next week...

I'll get the exact amount but it came out to $850 shipped... Including tax...

That was for the cage, nascar door option, and the gusset plate kit... Shipped to Los Angeles...

Their customer service so far has been top notch... Here is their contact info:

S&W Racecars
800-523-3353
11 Mennonite Church Rd.
Spring City, PA
19475

ask for George... extension 117
or
[email protected]

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Wiisass

So if this fabricator is so good, why would you buy a crappy S&W cage?

And be careful with a permanent strut bar if you're thinking about running it straight across. Although it would be funny to see someone do that and not be able to get the engine back in through the top.

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R/T Tuning
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suprmods

I've never read a NASA/SCCA rule that prohibited this. I know in Honda Challenge there is a rule on adding a weight penalty if the cage goes through the firewall, and I might have even seen a few crx's with such a cage.

Def

Why stick with an NA KA? Just seems like a simple turbo setup is easier than NA after a point, and the cost is almost negligible once you factor in all the tuning you need on an NA setup to eek out that last 5-10 rwhp.

racepar1

Because N/A is better! LOL! I personally wouldn't want to run a turbo motor in cali, especially if you wanna drive the car to and from the track. A big intercooler and a BOV is basically a big neon "PULL ME OVER" sign in most of so-cal. I think that is the reason that you see a lot of so-cal guys selling their SR's right now. Even a god damn exhaust ticket requires a trip to the ref and a full inspection. I wanna do a N/A KA just to prove that it can be done reliably and can produce sufficient power (200 whp) while still being "smog legal" (basically the bolt-ons will be carb legal and I will use a "stock" intake mani).

Om1kron

You haven't been paying attention to california smog have you?

state ref is out of commission until further notice homie...

California Department of Motor Vehicles

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Wayne

racepar1

I saw that, but that does not mean that if you get a ref ticket you are off the hook. It means that you will HAVE to pay the fine. It's effed up, but that's the way it works.

racepar1

I was thinking the same exact thing.

Def

If I was set on NA I'd probably drop a VQ35 in there. They've got to be getting cheap/plentiful enough to do the swap for not all that much money. Keep it roughly stock and it'll easily outpower any NA KA that will last for more than a few hours. And it'd be smog nazi legal.

Just my take on it.

The build looks like fun though.

Def

On this same line of thought, what about a good custom SMIC? It would make cooling a snap, and a recirc. BOV is essentially silent. Get a quiet exhaust setup for at least the street and you're good to go. It'd be a PITA for inspections, but it wouldn't be that horrible to pull most of that junk off and get it smogged essentially stock.

Would be a pretty easy 300 rwhp capable setup if you put some thought into it.

My S13 with a stock SR setup with SMIC was pretty stealth, especially with the 4x4 stock suspension and steelies on it(swap happened early in its life with me due to a friend being a little "over zealous" when I let him borrow it).

McRussellPants

shush steve.

lets not get into which cars run 18/18kg and which run 8/4kg

im sure you don't want to know the answer.

clark

badass...subscribed