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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15. |
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04-10-2011, 08:38 PM | #1 |
Leaky Injector
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KA24DE Cranking, but not starting.
It was all of a sudden where the car stopped starting. It was completely fine, running on the highway for hours. It was when I drove to a local place, where it was still perfect. After I came back, the car didn't start and had to be towed away.
I don't know what the problem is that made it stop so suddenly, but i'm assuming it's something electrical. We diagnosed the system, jump starting the battery, checking the sparkplugs, fuel lines. We checked to see if the plugs sparked when cranking and it turns out, they do. From there, we replaced the fuel pump, to see it was the problem, and it happens, IT'S STILL NOT STARTING. We checked more stuff. Again, fuses, the fuel tank, the fuel hose, fuel filter, even tried tapping the starter. Got nothing. I'm thinking that I might need to replace the fuel pump relay, but i'm not completely sure. Nothing is going to the fuel lines in the engine bay, btw. I also forgot to mention that the engine's now making this hissing sound (from the engine bay, but not so sure) that happens when the car is turned on and off. Can I get some suggestions? If i'm missing anything? I need the help! This is btw a 1996 240sx, (S14) Thanks in advance! |
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04-10-2011, 08:53 PM | #4 |
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If you're not getting fuel, and you changed your pump and filter, change both your EGI relays. I would bet that fixes that issue.
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04-10-2011, 09:13 PM | #5 |
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Yeah! I was thinking it would be the relays, but which one is it?
There's the kick panel fuse box, and the engine bay one. Relays would be the big plug looking things, right? Not the fuses? (Noob question sorry.) Anyways, on the kick panel, I saw 4 relays, I believe. 1 brown and 3 blues. I don't know which one is which. Also, do you think that the fuel pump needs a rubber cover on the positive wire connecting to the actual pump? the stock one had one, but this one didn't mention to slap one on, or include one period. I bought an after market Carter fuel pump. |
04-10-2011, 09:20 PM | #6 |
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In the engine bay, next to the coolant overflow tank, is a relay box, inside will be a EGI and a EGI PUMP relay. One if not both of them is not working.
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04-10-2011, 09:50 PM | #7 |
Leaky Injector
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I will definitely check that tomorrow, in the daylight. Is the relay box and fuse box the same thing? Is it the box located on top of the battery?
Also, for anyone else who checks this out, the fuel pump is connected by two wires, one being the positive red, and the other being the negative red with white stripe. On the stock fuel pump, there was a rubber cover that was mounted on one of the cables connecting to the pump. We didn't put the rubber piece on the top. Is that a problem? I was told it was a sort of "ground," thing.. |
04-10-2011, 10:53 PM | #8 |
Zilvia Junkie
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If anything the rubber piece is only used for insulation. The opposite of a ground. Also you say you hear like a whine from the engine bay when you turn the key to "on" that would be the fuel pump building up pressure in the lines.
Also yes the fuse box is located behind the battery with the relay's located inside as well.
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1990 Nissan 240SX w/KA24DE - New project 1984 Mazda RX-7 GSL-SE 13B |
04-11-2011, 12:11 PM | #9 |
Leaky Injector
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Okay, so i'm trusting the lack of insulation won't cause anything major? I'll have to look up again. And that sound could be from the fuel lines, but it's more of a hissing-compressed-air sort of sound, in addition, I don't understand why it's happening everytime the car is turned to those positions, and why I haven't heard it before. The sound is coming whenever the key is ignited on and turned off.
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04-11-2011, 12:21 PM | #10 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Does it stop if you were to turn it off quickly? When you turn to "on" the fuel pump primes for about 3 seconds to build up pressure at the rail.
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1990 Nissan 240SX w/KA24DE - New project 1984 Mazda RX-7 GSL-SE 13B |
04-11-2011, 12:26 PM | #11 |
Leaky Injector
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Turning it off quickly just results in the same thing; yes, I thought about the priming process also, but the sound's not coming from the rear, and the priming sound i used to hear doesn't sound like this..
I also have a killswitch for the fuel pump, which manually turns it on. That could be it also, but last I check, the wirings intact. |
04-11-2011, 01:08 PM | #12 |
Zilvia Junkie
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Well there's nothing else in the rear that would make that noise. Its possible that the sock on the pump is clogged and that's what is making the sound different.
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1990 Nissan 240SX w/KA24DE - New project 1984 Mazda RX-7 GSL-SE 13B |
04-11-2011, 09:22 PM | #13 |
Leaky Injector
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I got the car started! It also runs smoothly! Though, I still don't know what the problem was. All we did was take the fuel pump out, put it back in and it worked. All the fuses and relays checked out fine. Now, I have a check engine light.
I'm scared that this will happen again, but I sill don't know what was wrong. and i'm not really expecting you guys to know. Thanks everyone though. |
10-11-2013, 12:35 PM | #16 |
Hey guys, sorry for bring back this thread but i have the same issue. Engine turn over strong but doesn't start, when it eventually start it's barely alive for a second or two and then jumps to 1500 rpm. I can start car a lot quicker when i turn key and tap gas couple of times while it's cranking. After the start car runs ok, once in a while engine shakes.
So far i've searched and tested plugs, distributor cap, checked both relays, and cleaned MAF - all seems to be functioning good except sparks are white(running lean i guess). What's weird is that I don't hear fuel pump priming and i mean no sound at all, no clicking no whining just nothing. Could it be a bad fuel pump or some issue with wiring? Thanks |
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