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Old 01-12-2006, 08:20 AM   #1
driftstyre
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Finished carbon dash

I finished my dash. It sucked doing but the end product came out ok. I couldn't get the bag to seal completely so there are a couple of voids in obvious areas. It weighs under 4 lbs and is very flexible so it should be easier to get in behind the cage. I will probably have to take an inch or so off of each side but it will hold my guages and thats pretty much its purpose.

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Old 01-12-2006, 08:24 AM   #2
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Wow, that's pretty cool. Hows the fitment? Or haven't you hd a chance to check yet?
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Old 01-12-2006, 08:45 AM   #3
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That looks sweet man, definitely awesome that it came out that good on first try (for that dash that is).

And under 4 pounds? Damn, that's awesome!
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Old 01-12-2006, 08:50 AM   #4
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that is pretty dope man.. it looks like theres a huge crack down the middle.. is that one of the voids you were talking about.. you should take some pix of it in the car..
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Old 01-12-2006, 09:40 AM   #5
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Very intresting I must say.

How about a step by step procedure?
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Old 01-12-2006, 09:45 AM   #6
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That looks pretty good, I wish I could do stuff like that.
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Old 01-12-2006, 10:58 AM   #7
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Bill looks good.

Looks just like the double-sided carbon fiber hood I made for myself. I had to sort of "Frankenstein" some the pieces together for my hood since I ran out of room and wasn't using a vacuum, just handlaid the carbon. I was thinking of doing the dash.

Did you make a splash of your dash with fiberglass or did you actually create a mold? I was about to start manufacturing my carbon dash this week as well. This time I'm going to use my works vacuum though.
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Old 01-12-2006, 11:04 AM   #8
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That is freakin awesome! Can't wait to see how it looks once its in the car!
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Old 01-12-2006, 11:11 AM   #9
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I actually created a mold which took about 100 hours from start to finish. I'd write a step by step process but there are a bunch of great articles out about doing stuff like this. Learning "how" to do composite work is easy, experience is so key and I have none until this piece. I am excited to make some more stuff later (next winter maybe) but it is very time consuming and expensive. The other half of Dent Sport took the plunge with some carbon RC51 parts a few years ago and gave me some insight as well. A friend of ours lent me his vacuum pump, gel coat gun and resin collector.
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Old 01-12-2006, 11:37 AM   #10
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nice job for your first try! I think that is the same bagging material that we use at my work! what was your bleeder schedual like? did you use an oven to cook it or just wait a long time?
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Old 01-12-2006, 12:16 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by driftstyre
I actually created a mold which took about 100 hours from start to finish. I'd write a step by step process but there are a bunch of great articles out about doing stuff like this. Learning "how" to do composite work is easy, experience is so key and I have none until this piece. I am excited to make some more stuff later (next winter maybe) but it is very time consuming and expensive. The other half of Dent Sport took the plunge with some carbon RC51 parts a few years ago and gave me some insight as well. A friend of ours lent me his vacuum pump, gel coat gun and resin collector.
Well the good news is that you've created a mold man! That's the hardest part haha, after that you just have to make sure it's clean and waxed and pump parts out. The more parts you lay up the more experience you will gain. I'm pretty good with manufacturing composites, my work does fiberglass aerodynamics, carbon fiber and urethane so I have access to all those machines. Good luck buddy!
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Old 01-12-2006, 12:59 PM   #12
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Umm. . .what about that big crack?
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Old 01-12-2006, 01:40 PM   #13
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i thought it was just a garbage bag laying on the ground at first hahahahhahah, but nice work doin it yourself.
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Old 01-12-2006, 01:42 PM   #14
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thats not a big crack. thats where the sheets of carbon run together.

what kind of resin did you use?
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Old 01-12-2006, 03:30 PM   #15
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that is awesome, i would love to see a step by step process if you have the time
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Old 01-12-2006, 04:01 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chmercer
thats not a big crack. thats where the sheets of carbon run together.

what kind of resin did you use?
The one across the would be SRS? That doesn't look like 2 sheets running together.. that looks like a slit in one sheet.

Nice job for a first try. Keep at it, it'll only get better.
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Old 01-12-2006, 04:06 PM   #17
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I don't know why there aren't any companies making one for the USDM 240SX yet, I just want to replace my cracked dash with something new that isin't going to crack next month like used replacement dash....
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Old 01-12-2006, 04:26 PM   #18
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What looks like a crack in the middle is in fact where the two pieces of carbon meet , one overlapping the other. The top half of the dash will be flocked for anti-glare so there won't be too much showing.
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Old 01-12-2006, 04:51 PM   #19
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pic installed plz...how long did it take you? props!
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Old 01-12-2006, 04:56 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by driftstyre
What looks like a crack in the middle is in fact where the two pieces of carbon meet , one overlapping the other. The top half of the dash will be flocked for anti-glare so there won't be too much showing.
Yes, but not the part over the passenger side. 2 weaves aren't meeting there, that looks like a cut.
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Old 01-12-2006, 05:36 PM   #21
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thats awesome. id paint it black if i had one. how much would you charge to make another one?
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Old 01-12-2006, 07:39 PM   #22
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Quote:
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thats awesome. id paint it black if i had one. how much would you charge to make another one?
Hehehehe I knew that was coming. You would have to see the product in person before thinking of buying one. My 240SX CF hood was great except the carbon had to be painted because there were overlapping carbon pieces and it was my first carbon fiber piece manufactured so it looked like a frankenstein hood.

Perhaps if driftstyre was kind enough to give us more upclose shots we could see the quality but judging from the pictures already provided it's really a "beginners" manufactured dash...like driftstyre said, this was his first time messin' with anykind of composite.
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Old 01-12-2006, 08:01 PM   #23
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props for you... whats ur next peice your making?
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Old 01-13-2006, 02:04 AM   #24
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very cool man. too bad you ABSOLUTLEY HAVE TO PAINT IT!!!!

just kidding do what you want. you should make some smaller parts first then go for another dash!
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Old 01-13-2006, 06:34 AM   #25
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"thats awesome. id paint it black if i had one. how much would you charge to make another one?"

RSP13-Sideways is right on the money. The quality isn't anything I would want to sell but it works for me. There are plenty of defects and I already would have done a lot different in the lay up process and bagging process. I wasn't expecting it to be very good but I was expecting it to be ok. I have always had a lot of respect for people doing wet carbon work.

I fit the piece in the car and its pretty cool. I was getting nervous about how I would fit it in but after a little trimming it actually works pretty well. I'll post some pics later today.

To answer some other questions:
The epoxy is Fiberglast Epoxy Resin with their 120 minute hardener
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Old 01-13-2006, 07:02 AM   #26
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i love the idea hope you have good luck with it
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Old 01-13-2006, 03:28 PM   #27
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well i dont really care how it looks i just want a lighter dash. im pretty sure i could clean it up and even bondo some areas if it is that bad and then paint it to make it look clean. im just interested in it cause its a stock looking dash.
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Old 01-13-2006, 11:20 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NemeGuero
Yes, but not the part over the passenger side. 2 weaves aren't meeting there, that looks like a cut.
??? are you talking about the lighting glare line? that thing has no cracks
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Old 01-13-2006, 11:27 PM   #29
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Great first fun ... a couple more times and you should be pro ... I'll contact you to do my dash =D in about 5 months ---- practice !
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Old 01-14-2006, 11:11 PM   #30
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I've got a idea for your next dash, when you join the two pieces of the dash, you should join it where the hump(gauge area) meets the rest of the dash, that way the "crack" won't be as noticable
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