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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15.


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Old 09-05-2009, 08:03 AM   #1
wvustud2003
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gt28rs install problem

so we just put the disco potato on my sr20det....but for some reason it leaks coolant out the inside bolt on the turbo where the water line goes. not matter how much we tighten it it shoots a fine stream of coolant out.....shit is fuckign annoying. anyway...does anybody know if i can just plug the coolant lines off and not run coolant through the turbo and treat it like an oil cooled turbo?....or will i melt bearings and such....any info is greatly appreciated....i need to fix this by 4 p.m. today

this would only be temporary till i can order some aftermarket lines
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Old 09-05-2009, 09:29 AM   #2
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replace the crush washers
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Old 09-05-2009, 11:55 PM   #3
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Upgrade to AN fittings.
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Old 09-06-2009, 07:13 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sileighty_85 View Post
replace the crush washers
No, I think his problem is the actual lines. The part where the line is welded onto the banjo fitting part is probably cracked.

Best bet is buy upgrade aftermarket water lines.

NO, you can not run a ball bearing turbo without a waterline. Not unless you wanna buy a new CHRA in a couple of months that will cost you atleast $700.

Temp fix would be take the said line off, find the crack and have somebody weld the crack shut. (JB weld will probably work too)
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Old 09-06-2009, 08:14 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx View Post
No, I think his problem is the actual lines. The part where the line is welded onto the banjo fitting part is probably cracked.

Best bet is buy upgrade aftermarket water lines.

NO, you can not run a ball bearing turbo without a waterline. Not unless you wanna buy a new CHRA in a couple of months that will cost you atleast $700.

Temp fix would be take the said line off, find the crack and have somebody weld the crack shut. (JB weld will probably work too)
the reason i asked is because i saw people running their oil/water cooled turbos like that for over 2 years like that so i figured 5 days wouldn't hurt if i did proper engine cool downs..but i'll take your word for it and not do it that way. the problem is i have work and no way to get there and i can't even put an order in for new lines until Tuesday since today is sunday and monday is a holiday.... :-(
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Old 09-06-2009, 09:37 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wvustud2003 View Post
the reason i asked is because i saw people running their oil/water cooled turbos like that for over 2 years like that so i figured 5 days wouldn't hurt if i did proper engine cool downs..but i'll take your word for it and not do it that way. the problem is i have work and no way to get there and i can't even put an order in for new lines until Tuesday since today is sunday and monday is a holiday.... :-(
I'd try J-welding it first then...Just make sure its absolutely dry when you start slopping it on the hole.
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Old 09-06-2009, 05:26 PM   #7
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ok thanks for the time and effort fellas
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Old 09-06-2009, 07:19 PM   #8
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i just bought this stuff at an ace hardware call max flow epoxy. i will hold up to 1500 psi, heat resistant till something ridiculous like 2000 degrees. sets in 5 min
a tube of it was $6.

i used it to fill a hole in my inter cooler. let it set and BAM, no more hole. worked perfectly.
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Old 09-06-2009, 09:39 PM   #9
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Get Stainless steel lines and An fittings.
You can get em for like $150 New.

SO much easier to work with than OEM metal lines.

also... All you need to do to fix the metal line is SILVER SOLDER it. I broke one WAY back from over tightening it. I brought it to old man riverahs In billerica and he got his goods out and did it up in 10 secs.

Do run water. its their from Garret for a reason... they wouldnt put it for no reason, you know...
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