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Old 08-28-2011, 08:02 PM   #1
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Breather Tank/Swirl Pot question.

Ok, I searched and every thread I found the pics were removed. I just need to know how to route the lines. It's going to be mounted on the passenger fender like most are. My instructions are Japanese of course. No pictures either. So can anyone post pics up of there setup and help out a premie please. Greatly appreciated.

Bought it bc I guess I'm a idiot and can't bleed the system correctly obviously. So anyone care to help me out.

It's a S13 and the engine is a redtop Sr20.


Thanks for any help.
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Old 08-28-2011, 08:11 PM   #2
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here is my parts shop max swirl pot. bottom port goes to lower rad hose

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Old 08-28-2011, 08:29 PM   #3
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Check out this article, it's boss.

Awesome cooling system article.

Ignore the fact that it's for an LS1, doesn't matter.
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Old 08-28-2011, 09:11 PM   #4
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Appreciate the reply's. For your PBM setup, bottom goes to the lower rad hose, one is going to the water neck, and the other to the radiator correct? Is the other tank behind there another breather tank as well? I'm guessing from that pic you have no need for a coolant over flow tank with one of these? Sorry for the noobish questions just want to do it right.
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Old 08-28-2011, 09:12 PM   #5
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And to add your engine bay is BOSS.
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Old 08-29-2011, 05:30 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SLiDe_WaYz View Post
Appreciate the reply's. For your PBM setup, bottom goes to the lower rad hose, one is going to the water neck, and the other to the radiator correct? Is the other tank behind there another breather tank as well? I'm guessing from that pic you have no need for a coolant over flow tank with one of these? Sorry for the noobish questions just want to do it right.

Read that article, it answers that question and more!
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Old 08-29-2011, 11:21 AM   #7
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I hope Powered By Max doesn't mind but this is pretty clear.

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Old 08-29-2011, 02:57 PM   #8
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I hope Powered By Max doesn't mind but this is pretty clear.

Damn didn't even see that. That's perfectly clear.
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Old 08-29-2011, 05:30 PM   #9
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Where do people buy the fitting that they usually put in the waterneck?
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Old 08-29-2011, 07:36 PM   #10
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^the water neck? As in the little spacer for a sensor pickup? Stance?
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Old 08-29-2011, 09:26 PM   #11
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fittings came with my greddy swirl tank

Quote:
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Where do people buy the fitting that they usually put in the waterneck?
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Old 08-29-2011, 09:38 PM   #12
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I drilled mine out to 1/4NPT and put a hose adapter in it.
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Old 08-29-2011, 09:38 PM   #13
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^the water neck? As in the little spacer for a sensor pickup? Stance?
ah, that's not a bad idea at all.
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Old 08-31-2011, 01:01 PM   #14
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not a bad idea for what? that schematic seems to indicate the inline tap must be pulled from the "cold" supply. I was just answering what I thought you were asking...
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Old 08-31-2011, 01:28 PM   #15
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nah, you reminded me of that stance/DiF waterneck spacer. that would be a great place to place a barb to tap off of.

However, i have a KA and they dont make those for a KA.
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Old 08-31-2011, 03:59 PM   #16
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Quote:
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nah, you reminded me of that stance/DiF waterneck spacer. that would be a great place to place a barb to tap off of.

However, i have a KA and they dont make those for a KA.
I pulled my whole intake manifold off and drilled it out and tapped it to 1/4NPT. Stock hole was just to small to put any decent sized fitting in it.
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Old 09-02-2011, 07:03 PM   #17
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I ghetto rigged my KA. I found a brake caliper bleeder that fits the KA. I grinded the bottom out so its a straight thru and used it. It works, not like I'm gonna keep this POS KA forever...
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Old 09-03-2011, 12:40 PM   #18
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^sick...

msglngh
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Old 01-08-2012, 04:58 AM   #19
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I received an infraction for keeping this thread in my 'subscribed threads...'

Quote:
Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx View Post
I ghetto rigged my KA. I found a brake caliper bleeder that fits the KA. I grinded the bottom out so its a straight thru and used it. It works, not like I'm gonna keep this POS KA forever...

Thanks for letting me see your setup yesterday. I definitely need this mod to help promote effecient cooling. I noticed that SARD makes a similar product:
Sard - Lower Hose Adapter Set & Option parts - Nengun Performance

I like the fact that it's a more compact solution to the MAX product.
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Old 01-08-2012, 07:36 PM   #20
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I understand how these systems work, but don't understand how so many people have overheating/bleeding issues. My car has been apart a zillion times, as have my other ones...never had an issue.

Edit: ANd that's with more track miles than some cars see on street.
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Old 01-08-2012, 07:47 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigalow311 View Post
I received an infraction for keeping this thread in my 'subscribed threads...'




Thanks for letting me see your setup yesterday. I definitely need this mod to help promote effecient cooling. I noticed that SARD makes a similar product:
Sard - Lower Hose Adapter Set & Option parts - Nengun Performance

I like the fact that it's a more compact solution to the MAX product.
Thats just the return line. You need that and an actual tank. Thats the part you need to install on the radiator return line to the water pump/themostat housing.
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Old 01-08-2012, 07:49 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codyace View Post
I understand how these systems work, but don't understand how so many people have overheating/bleeding issues. My car has been apart a zillion times, as have my other ones...never had an issue.
Some engines are just a pain in the ass. SRs were easy to bleed but this damn KA kept getting air in the system. Then throw in that I'm burning coolant somewhere (think HG is slowly dying) so I'm almost always low on coolant.

RBs are just as notorious from what I'm told due to the location of the bleeder. Alot of RB guys I knew in Okinawa swears by swirl pots.
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Old 01-08-2012, 07:52 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codyace View Post
I understand how these systems work, but don't understand how so many people have overheating/bleeding issues. My car has been apart a zillion times, as have my other ones...never had an issue.

Edit: ANd that's with more track miles than some cars see on street.
Once a upon a time, I opened up my radiator cap and literally smelled fish. There was rust floating around the coolant. I took measures to flush my block and radiator as well as change to a Nismo T-stat but I believe that I still have rust deposits throughout my block. I will potentially have nice, comfortable places for air to get trapped. The Max breather is a good solution for me to 'be better protected from Mayhem.'


Quote:
Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx View Post
Thats just the return line. You need that and an actual tank. Thats the part you need to install on the radiator return line to the water pump/themostat housing.
I noticed that after the fact. I have to call Max tomorrow to see how quickly they will have the vortex tanks. That will dictate where I will ship the kit and install it.
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Old 01-08-2012, 08:05 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Allen Burge View Post
Check out this article, it's boss.

Awesome cooling system article.

Ignore the fact that it's for an LS1, doesn't matter.
Oh but it does if you're going LSX
thanks man
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Old 01-08-2012, 08:57 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx View Post
RBs are just as notorious from what I'm told due to the location of the bleeder. Alot of RB guys I knew in Okinawa swears by swirl pots.
That and the coolant path goes through the manifold and all that. Even still, I don't get how a bleeder tank actually bleeds any better/worse than the OEM sysem. Gotta think of how many OEM cars go forever with the stock junk...without any worry or issue.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigalow311 View Post
Once a upon a time, I opened up my radiator cap and literally smelled fish. There was rust floating around the coolant. I took measures to flush my block and radiator as well as change to a Nismo T-stat but I believe that I still have rust deposits throughout my block. I will potentially have nice, comfortable places for air to get trapped. The Max breather is a good solution for me to 'be better protected from Mayhem.'
Once upon a time I understood how the system worked; I knew better lowering the thermostat opening temp below the ECU's 'point' of being warmed up, and knew that if I had rust in the system that no coolant surge tank on earth would actually bleed the system and take it out.

Cliffs: Fill your system with water, run it, drain it. Rinse/refill/repeat a fwe tims. once the rust is gone, put regular coolant in and be happy
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Old 01-09-2012, 06:32 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codyace View Post
That and the coolant path goes through the manifold and all that. Even still, I don't get how a bleeder tank actually bleeds any better/worse than the OEM sysem. Gotta think of how many OEM cars go forever with the stock junk...without any worry or issue.




Once upon a time I understood how the system worked; I knew better lowering the thermostat opening temp below the ECU's 'point' of being warmed up, and knew that if I had rust in the system that no coolant surge tank on earth would actually bleed the system and take it out.

Cliffs: Fill your system with water, run it, drain it. Rinse/refill/repeat a fwe tims. once the rust is gone, put regular coolant in and be happy
I'll try to bleed it again since I didn't get a warm, fuzzy that I properly bled it last time.


Quote:
Originally Posted by dudermagee View Post
Oh but it does if you're going LSX
thanks man
Here's another 1:
OMG My RB is overheating!
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Old 01-09-2012, 08:55 AM   #27
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Does anybody sell a proper fitting to replace the bleeder screw on the waterneck? In the diagram, it says that if you don't have it, just cap it of from the pot? Does that make sense?
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Old 04-22-2013, 01:01 AM   #28
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Would I be able to use this

Stance ST7 Water Neck Adapter Nissan SR20DET

as opposed to cutting up my samco hose?
Or do I need to get a temp sensor fitting with a barb for the lower radiator hose?
just making sure there is a way around cutting my new hose.
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Old 04-22-2013, 05:53 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alwyzDTF View Post
Would I be able to use this

Stance ST7 Water Neck Adapter Nissan SR20DET

as opposed to cutting up my samco hose?
Or do I need to get a temp sensor fitting with a barb for the lower radiator hose?
just making sure there is a way around cutting my new hose.
Nope that is for the top fitting to replace taping your bleeder hole.

You need a fitting at the lowest point in the system for the return line. Putting a Temp sensor adaptor in the lower hose is the easiest.
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Old 11-12-2013, 10:45 AM   #30
alwyzDTF
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S14DB View Post
Nope that is for the top fitting to replace taping your bleeder hole.

You need a fitting at the lowest point in the system for the return line. Putting a Temp sensor adaptor in the lower hose is the easiest.

Thanks man, I got it all setup.
I have a new question for you guys.

I got the Greddy can and I'm running the Greddy cap it came with. When I fill up my radiator with what I believe to be the right level of coolant and turn the car on it starts pouring out of the bottom hose of the Greddy swirl pot, so I tightened it down a little more and put grey RTV on it and it still leaks when the cars running. I'm thinking I might need a new cap that opens under less pressure so the coolant can go to my catch can instead of being rejected and forced out the bottom hose of the greddy can (swirl pot). My catch can has barely ANY coolant in it.

Swirl cap opens at 1.3
Radiator cap opens at .9 (pretty sure, have to double check)

Then I thought I could switch the two caps but thought the same thing might happen to the radiator and possibly start blowing coolant out of other weird places.
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