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11-13-2004, 02:50 PM | #1 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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240 KA all motor qeustions
OK, i am wanting to build an all motor 240.. if you think this is a bad idea dont reply please... OK first im set on using a KA, but witch on is better SOHC or DOHC..? does anyone actully know? or have had either with uped compression and such. I have heard of people puttin 90 piston is DOHC to get compression to 11.1 and the getting cams and basic bolt on and will produce 200hp to the wheels.. can anyone give me any kind of info? websites or anything...
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11-13-2004, 05:33 PM | #2 |
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Order a catalog from these guys. They have kits that produce insane horsepower for the KA... but you better have deep pockets.
www.paeco.com |
11-13-2004, 06:45 PM | #3 |
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89 pistons will net 11.6:1, to high for pump gas. At best with a 11:1 motor and lots of work you'll see about 180-185 rwhp, that's after you drop at least 3k at it.
In other words, not a real benefit for the money.
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11-13-2004, 07:18 PM | #4 |
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Here are a two links I found interesting when considering building a KA.
http://www.racetep.com/240sxna.html http://home.att.net/~MabuhayCarlos/NA.html I decided to go CA18 cause my KA wasnt in great shape but if I had a lower milage motor that didnt have such a hard life I may have stuck with the KA. It does have a few good features to it but Im addicted to boost now. Hehehe
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11-13-2004, 10:22 PM | #6 |
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What do you want out of your engine?
From this thread and reading your last one, you need to ask yourself what your ultimate goal is for your car/engine. If you just want to show some people up at the drag strip, keep your SR or start a turbo KA. If you want to autocross/roadrace, pick up a rule book and plot out how to modify your engine to the extent of the rules. If you are going balls out NA just because of originality, try the E, there are already race parts and information available from SCCA's GT3 class. If you just need high performance for only daily driving(which I never understood), you will never see the difference between a E and DE. If it were me, I would figure out EXACTLY what my goals were before throwing money around. My 2¢ -Matt FWIW: I plan on building a KA24E up the allowances in SCCA's DSP autocross class(bored .40 over, gasket matched intake/exhaust, side draft carbs, etc.) But it is definitely a long term project, because the engine will be the least important part of the car.
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11-14-2004, 12:45 AM | #8 |
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I'd head over to Honda boards or even VWvortex, those guys have had good success with ITB's. You can find a lot of good info there. Check out the motorcycle ITB setups they use on their engines, pretty cheap too (not counting the engine management).
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11-14-2004, 09:08 AM | #10 |
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I don't usually recommend this... but judging from this thread and your last one, you should just drop a Chevy 350 V8 in your car.
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11-14-2004, 11:54 AM | #11 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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im keeping it in the family so only nissan engines, and i dont know where i could get a cheaper engine than a KA that drops right in... i havnt seen a KA go for more than 500$ with tranny.. and as low as FREE.
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11-14-2004, 03:57 PM | #13 | |
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I'd love to build a 240 HP KA. Sure it would be tough, but I'm allways looking for a new challenge. In my mind is what seems to be needed is `90 pistons, knife edge crank, lightweight flywheel, underdrive pully, mild P&P head, minimum of 2 `91 exhaust cams or larger, 370cc injectors, ITBs, hotshot header, 3" exhaust w/ cat, and an e-manage with timing harness to tune it. I'm reasonably sure that with careful assembly and tuning that should get really close to, if not 240 WHP.
It's also likely that the car would barly be streetable like that if at all.
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11-14-2004, 04:15 PM | #15 |
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I want a KA24DZE,KA24DER,KA24DES or whatever the fuck is the proper term,too ! !
EDIT: This thread is about all motor KAs though... Last edited by Ghettokracker71; 11-14-2004 at 04:32 PM.. |
11-14-2004, 07:45 PM | #19 | |
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^ It's all in the valvetrain and if it can support it. Longer duration cams and larger ports will move your powerband higher in the rev range. The nice part about raising the compression is that you can still have torque down low for street driving.
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11-14-2004, 08:45 PM | #20 | |
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Quote:
Sunbelt Performance gets about 240 out a full race motor (from the Speedvision Touring Cup and ITA type cars), and there's a LOT more work than that involved. Headwork is extensive, full reprogram and heavy tuning, stupid cam profiles, ultra high compression on race gas only, completely unstreetable.
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11-16-2004, 12:32 AM | #21 |
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Find a non turbo s15 motor. Then get ITB's.
Anyway in Kennesaw there is a guy that works on classic Z's and they had a road race s13 in the early nineties that was an 89 coupe with the SOHC that had close to 300 hp at the break. So much work though. |
11-16-2004, 02:49 AM | #23 |
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Talk to the guy from the drift factory, he might be able to help you. www.driftfactory.com he’s got his own forum, (if you didn't know) and the number to his office is there somewhere on his site . He was running an all motor KA24DE s13 if I remember correctly.
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11-16-2004, 10:40 AM | #24 |
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if you have the money have everything balanced. like the crank, rods, anything that you can balance, balance it at a machine shop... but i hope you are rich in order to have everything balanced i suggest selling a kidney... but your redline would be higher and faster revving..
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11-16-2004, 12:01 PM | #25 |
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Sidedrafts or ITBs when you can't change the compression or head flow or cam is a BAD idea for the SOHC. If you want to make usable power, things have to be matched. Stick with a ported stock intake manifold for DSP autocross. Four 44mm throttles is super overkill for an otherwise "stock" blueprinted motor. That intake setup was developed for 250+hp engines.
Beyond 200 crank horsepower you reach a point where proper internal work is critical. You can do all the headwork you want and use the most insane cams you can find, but if your engine can't safely spin faster than 7000rpm then you're limited to what you can produce in that rev range. This is why 250hp or more becomes such an arduous task. If you want that kind of power per liter from a rev-limited engine, then you can't just spin it faster, you have to produce more torque per liter... and beyond about 75lb-ft/L becomes extremely difficult to produce for a streetable NA engine. Not to mention, with no variable valve timing, if you've moved your torque band even to the top of our available RPM range you've already got very lopey camshafts. The good news is, getting up to around 190-200 crank horsepower is relatively simple. The key is proper tuning. I've seen it done with an S14 with nothing more than a short-ram intake, exhaust, stock manifolds, mild cams, and - this is critical - a remapped ECU. Optimizing the fuel and ignition timing for your combination is what makes a car with "bolt ons" actually work. And you DON'T need a standalone to do it, unless you plan on constantly changing and updating your combination... IMO for a streetable engine something like a JWT ECU works just fine. |
11-16-2004, 04:12 PM | #26 |
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what AKADriver said is true. a KA can't safely rev above 7K, so it would be VERY dificult to get that much HP, that said, why don't you just get a sr20de and then install a sr16ve head and then go from there, sounds like a better idea to me.
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