doridoridori

that is exactly what i was thinking as well, with it unplugged it should do something given fuel/spark is there. I am going to check fuel pressure or check my fuel to see if it's even good. I filled up the car the night it died but i didn't go to a cheap-o gas station so i'd imagine my fuel should be ok.

Going to pull the feed line off, put it in a bottle to see how the fuel is, maybe got some bottom of the pump fuel idk. this shit is driving me crazy lol can't even sleep thinking about it so much.

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If I had a dollar for every pet named "nismo" by a nissan owner Id be rich

doridoridori

in the begining no but i pulled the plugs to check them, they do look very rich like super rich but they've been in the car a year probably. Had some
NGK Iridium (BKR5EIX-11)

just got some new BKR8EIX (2668).


So thought of something else, with the CAS having the connector on it before installing i turned the gear and could hear the injectors clicking BUT I know it also controls the spark sequence to the coilpacks. Should i actually see spark as well just by turning the gear on the CAS?

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If I had a dollar for every pet named "nismo" by a nissan owner Id be rich

doridoridori

any idea where that black/white wire leads to? based on the ecu pinout i was looking at i didn't see it go to a pin on the ecu. Not sure where it changes direction and I cant find a wiring diag. for the SR engine harness that would help,it would be nice if i can get a visual of where that wire goes without taking all the loom off.

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If I had a dollar for every pet named "nismo" by a nissan owner Id be rich

Kingtal0n

while diagnosing stuff use copper ngk plugs brand new
always make sure plugs look good while you do anything
keep a second new set of copper plugs they are cheap enough
never try to use an obviously blackened plug in anything for any reason
----
when the car is done, tuned, runs perfect, finished, cruising 15:1 a/f ratio clean.

Then you switch to the iridium NGK plugs.


this applies to all engines, always put expensive plug in last, it should be the last thing you do to the engine before hitting the dyno after assembling a car.
Never diagnose with iridium or build a car with it in progress

Kingtal0n

If you get desperate and need to diagnose without frustration:

I would unplug the maf and injectors,

remove all coil packs and use new ngk BKR7E(S) plugs, set then against ground so you can see all of them spark.


go engine tdc #1 and remove cas.



Now you can spin the cas by hand without cranking and flooding and diagnose the problem simply.
When you spin the cas, fuel pump should trigger for 3-4 seconds. That means there is 85% chance the cas working and connected properly with ecu.
It nearly rules out the cas -> ecu connection so you can focus on coils and igniter wiring to ecu.

S14rebuild

Just keep it simple.


Do u have spark at the plug?
Do u have proper fuel pressure?
Do u have injector pules?
Do u have good compression?


Answer those and will go from there...

s13 @ fullboost

I agree with your first statement 100% Copper is the plug of choice for the SR IMO.


Cruise AFR should be 14.7 in a perfect world but 15.1 is dam good too

I disagree with using iridium plugs on a SR however.


These are just opinions take them with a grain of salt. OP will do what he will do lol

A lot of members have posted good information in this thread.

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doridoridori

Yes confirmed I have spark
Just got my hands on a fuel pressure tester and pressure is around 41-42psi, it stayed there for about 10mins or so. Lets me know i have good enough pressure to start the car at least and rules out the FPR being bad.
I do have injector pulse an compression is spot on.

I have a hunch that the 2nd Cas i got from a friend might still be bad.


I had a situation when I was first getting my SR started I went through EVERYTHING it is starting to remind me of this situation. (granted the swap was years ago). I checked everything and remember people saying IF i leave the CAS connected but turn the gear by hand, if i hear the injectors clicking it's good. Back then I did just that, checked everything else and was stumped. A buddy of mine had a spare CAS said lets try it why not and car fired up.

So maybe the spin the cas gear by hand to hear injectors click isn't the best confirmation that it's working 100%. I pulled the fuel rail and had my brother crank the car and the injectors are all spraying.

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If I had a dollar for every pet named "nismo" by a nissan owner Id be rich

doridoridori

I did find something i didn't catch before. So something keeps telling me to focus on the CAS, I checked the wires for power and ground the first week i started diagnosing what the issue coul have been. This time when I checked the black wire I got ground but I left the test light clamp on the positive an checked the white/black wire which should be power but it did light up when I was checking for ground. So seems like I have a broken wire somewhere in the harness. Ran out of sunlight so tomorrow I'm going to check all those wires from end to end and make sure there isn't a break somewhere. IF there is which it seems im going to pull the harness and just replace the old wires with fresh ones, definitely don't want this issue happening again at random times. Fingers crossed I hope this is the root of all the headaches

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If I had a dollar for every pet named "nismo" by a nissan owner Id be rich

doridoridori

FIXED IT!

this will be the last update, so after seeing the (black/white) wire on the CAS Connector get signal when I was checking for grounds but it's a power I knew something was up. Undid the loom and found the wire gauge was open a bit but nothing too bad, I cut and soldered it anyway. Plugged it up and nothing. Went further into the harness (a little before the firewall) and found the (black/white) wire and it was touching the black (ground) wire that goes to the CAS as well. Both wires were exposed inside the old loom so I pulled cleaned them up, soldered both, heat shrinked them, taped the loom back up and it fired right up!

It was annoying as hell though, considering when i started checking for power/ground on all pins in the begining i didn't get the same readings but with the wires being broken the way they were im sure they touched at a point then seperated slightly giving that intermittent connection and inaccurate reading when diagnosing the issue.

Appreciate the help from everyone that chimed in on this!

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If I had a dollar for every pet named "nismo" by a nissan owner Id be rich

S14rebuild

Glad it was solved