White bunny Clutch not fully disengaging - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

fnc0329 · 04-01-2020, 02:06 PM

I?m a bit lost here, I?ve searched and tried many things to try and solve this problem but no luck.

Ok, so I recently completed a 5 speed swap on my car. I purchased a white bunny clutch kit from enjuku. Also got brand new clutch master and slave cylinder as well as a braided clutch line. When installing the clutch I used the alignment tool, torqued everything down to spec, etc. I bench bled the master, and then bled again from the slave. Everything seemed fine until I took it on a test drive; the clutch itself engages almost at the firewall and slips anywhere after 3000 rpm, to me it felt like it wasn?t fully disengaging/grabbing.

Next I adjusted the clutch pedal to factory specs with the proper amount of play as well. After this I couldn?t get into gear at all while the car is running. The only way I can get into gear is with the clutch pedal fully extended about an inch or so above the brake pedal.

So I went to check the slave and make sure the clutch fork was engaging properly. I removed the clutch fork dust boot and it sits fine on the pivot ball, and looks to be pressing against the pressure plate just fine.

Next I removed the clutch slave, and upon removal I couldn?t get it mounted back on. In order for it to mount to the holes on the trans, it would be applying pressure to the clutch fork (disengaging the clutch) about an inch.

Has anyone had this problem or know a way I can fix it? I shortened the pushrod coming out of the slave to allow me to mount it with the clutch fork at full rest, this only resulted in me not being able to go in gear again, so I put the regular push rod back in which is engaging the clutch fork at full rest..

fnc0329 · 04-02-2020, 09:14 PM

Still looking for some input, this is a headache

spooled240 · 04-03-2020, 01:59 PM

I had a very similar issue with my s14 and it ending up being a very worn (possibly bent?) pivot ball and fork. I ended up having to pull the trans out again to replace them both which was a drag but the clutch worked flawlessly afterwards. They are somewhat inexpensive so I will replace them every time I do a clutch from now on.

fnc0329 · 04-03-2020, 05:45 PM

That’s interesting.. I replaced the pivot ball with a brand new one and the clutch fork looked fine. I’m pulling the trans off anyways to have a closer look at what the issue may be

spooled240 · 04-03-2020, 08:11 PM

I would just replace the fork while you're at it. Even the slightest bend and wear on the contact point could affect the functionality of the clutch.

I would also check your throwout bearing as well. See if its backwards and even the correct model.

04-01-2020, 02:06 PM	#1
fnc0329 Leaky Injector Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Los Angeles, Ca Posts: 97 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	White bunny Clutch not fully disengaging I?m a bit lost here, I?ve searched and tried many things to try and solve this problem but no luck. Ok, so I recently completed a 5 speed swap on my car. I purchased a white bunny clutch kit from enjuku. Also got brand new clutch master and slave cylinder as well as a braided clutch line. When installing the clutch I used the alignment tool, torqued everything down to spec, etc. I bench bled the master, and then bled again from the slave. Everything seemed fine until I took it on a test drive; the clutch itself engages almost at the firewall and slips anywhere after 3000 rpm, to me it felt like it wasn?t fully disengaging/grabbing. Next I adjusted the clutch pedal to factory specs with the proper amount of play as well. After this I couldn?t get into gear at all while the car is running. The only way I can get into gear is with the clutch pedal fully extended about an inch or so above the brake pedal. So I went to check the slave and make sure the clutch fork was engaging properly. I removed the clutch fork dust boot and it sits fine on the pivot ball, and looks to be pressing against the pressure plate just fine. Next I removed the clutch slave, and upon removal I couldn?t get it mounted back on. In order for it to mount to the holes on the trans, it would be applying pressure to the clutch fork (disengaging the clutch) about an inch. Has anyone had this problem or know a way I can fix it? I shortened the pushrod coming out of the slave to allow me to mount it with the clutch fork at full rest, this only resulted in me not being able to go in gear again, so I put the regular push rod back in which is engaging the clutch fork at full rest..

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04-02-2020, 09:14 PM	#2
fnc0329 Leaky Injector Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Los Angeles, Ca Posts: 97 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Still looking for some input, this is a headache

04-03-2020, 01:59 PM	#3
spooled240 Post Whore! Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 4,138 Trader Rating: (27) Feedback Score: 27 reviews	I had a very similar issue with my s14 and it ending up being a very worn (possibly bent?) pivot ball and fork. I ended up having to pull the trans out again to replace them both which was a drag but the clutch worked flawlessly afterwards. They are somewhat inexpensive so I will replace them every time I do a clutch from now on.

04-03-2020, 05:45 PM	#4
fnc0329 Leaky Injector Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Los Angeles, Ca Posts: 97 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	That’s interesting.. I replaced the pivot ball with a brand new one and the clutch fork looked fine. I’m pulling the trans off anyways to have a closer look at what the issue may be

04-03-2020, 08:11 PM	#5
spooled240 Post Whore! Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 4,138 Trader Rating: (27) Feedback Score: 27 reviews	I would just replace the fork while you're at it. Even the slightest bend and wear on the contact point could affect the functionality of the clutch. I would also check your throwout bearing as well. See if its backwards and even the correct model.