Pinggg

so i have a screamer pipe on my gt28, the problem im having is when i have the car on. It idles through the dump instead of the exhaust and yes i have the divider that goes from the turbo elbow into the turbo. is my wastegate rod/flap or whatever broken?! somebody help me or if i leave it like this would it still boost and just have to deal with the loudness..

r33nota240

on ur turbo is the wastegate and exhaust in the same open area ? if it is it wont matter if u have a devided o2 housing and is that the wastegate accuator that came with the turbo? if it isnt it could be too long keeping the flapper open. also if it is doing that at idle the accuator could be bad and i dont see it boosting much and if it does it will take forever to spool with it leaking.

Pinggg

im gonna try and replace the actuator with another, this one has little movement.

huffandpuff00

Did you loop the heater lines in the rear of the engine?

Pinggg

yes i have everything looped.

fliprayzin240sx

Its supposed to dump at idle. You dont want the engine trying to spool the turbo at idle.

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Pinggg

i never had a screamer dump before that's why i'm asking.. thanks for the info man.

fliprayzin240sx

Well not really dump, just have the exhaust flow out of the flapper opening. Basically, let the exhaust gas bypass around the turbine wheel so the turbo wont be spooling.

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Taylor008

That makes perfect sense....

Oh wait, no it doesn't.

Pinggg

i know its suppose to leak a little but can anybody tell me how much is a little? lol

EsChassisLove

A GT28 will not spool at idle.

It shouldn't be leaking. Vacuum will not move that actuator. My external doesn't leak. Am I doing it wrong?

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Pinggg

internal wastegate with a screamer dump are known to leak at idle a little.. atleast that's what i been told by many members on here.

i don't have a external wastegate just a internal with a divorce dump (screamer pipe)

cotbu

All turbos should spin during idle! Spool is a relative term used unwisely most of the time.

The divorced dump pipes, don't completely separate the exhaust gasses and tend to leak across the divider. Pinggg, you can remove the actuator, tie down the flapper and run the engine at idle. Then manually open the flapper, to see how much it's actually leaking when it's closed. You should not be leaking from the wastegate flapper! You would most definitely need a retune for this leak. Check your idle afr by blocking off the dump tube and recording the Air fuel ratio.

IMO, I think the divorce dump pipes we're a gimmick to mimic the external wastegate sound, with no real performance. Have you looked at the ones that dump back in to the exhaust, within like 2-3 inches... just a joke! anywhoooo!

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EsChassisLove

When I say spool I mean boost. I know its used a little loosely.

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Kingtal0n

During idle, and during acceleration, all exhaust gas should be forced into the turbine. That is, until desired boost is achieved, at which point, the exhaust gas should be routed away from the turbine to limit it's speed (which limited the turbine's RPM, which limits the compressor's rpm, which limits the amount of air inducted and accelerated towards the throttle valve)

The idea here is that all exhaust gasses should be forced through the turbine until desired boost is achieved. That means that during idle, part throttle, anytime your boost is < desired set maximum, ALL exhaust gasses should and can go through the turbine... NONE should be leaked out into the wastegate- that would be a waste!

Pinggg

thanks guys! any other input welcome!

thegentlemen

yeah, any other input? my "screamer pipe" is also leaking at idle and while im cruising. Mine was bought used and did not come with the divider in it. Although i wasnt sure if i could use the divider, given the s15 t28 has a divider in it and thats the turbo im using.

Any input?

MadScientist

Consisting of ceramic and iron oxide filled paste, Pyro-Putty® 2500 bonds, seals, and repairs defects up to ¼ in. in cross-section in cast iron and steel components up to 1,600°F. Single part, water-based, black-pigmented paste will not decompose at high temperatures and contains no VOCs. Setting at room temperature and curing in-situ or by heating to 200°F for 2-4 hr, product is suited for afterburners, boiler casings, heat exchangers, exhaust manifolds, flanges, headers, and mufflers.

thegentlemen

yea i get that, but im looking for another alternative/ideas thanks

MadScientist

this^^

and to answer your question of where to buy...
Pyro-Putty 2400 - Welding Products - Restoration Aids - Caswell Inc

I would use a tape to hold it in place and shape it to fit.
If you need to use something like a metal ruler to make a straight edge (like the flange edge) be sure to use a mylar tape on the ruler so it doesn't bond.

What you guys never play with Silly Putty... grow up...

thegentlemen

haha yea its been awhile since ive messed with it though. But thanks for that link and the input, maybe soon i can give it a shot.