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Old 08-02-2009, 10:09 PM   #1
kbui
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sr20det godspeed t3 cast top mount turbo manifold

Well looking for a new manifold for my sr. Yes, i know there are the synapse, peakboost, and full race manifolds and yes they are the better designed ones; but the price is a little steep for me. i've been searching for reviews on this godspeed t3 cast top mount manifold, but i haven't found anything info on them. i just looked into getting this cause its real cheap, and its cast so a little more durable than the stainless steel ones. So I'm just looking for some input on this manifold, the fitment...etc.
thanks

here's the link to the turbo manifold....
http://www.godspeedproject.com/store...products_id=11

my only concern is that the runners are a little short, so when the turbo is on the manifold, it'll hit the valve cover.
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Old 08-03-2009, 01:17 AM   #2
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im sure they designed it to where it wont hit the cover.
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Old 08-03-2009, 01:18 AM   #3
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godspeed products seem to be very good. but call em to see if it will hit.
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Old 08-03-2009, 04:55 PM   #4
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not sure about the godspeed but i used to have a Treadstone and it actually fit very well. The turbo flange was a little more angled than that one. Check them out, it's not an ebay brand like godspeed
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Old 08-03-2009, 04:58 PM   #5
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Cast log manifolds suck. Very poor flow that hinders turbo spool.
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Old 08-03-2009, 05:33 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX View Post
Cast log manifolds suck. Very poor flow that hinders turbo spool.
You do realize a log manifold will out-spool a tubular manifold right? Tubular manifolds make more top end power.
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Old 08-03-2009, 05:42 PM   #7
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ROFL. Let me see a dyno that says that. Then I might believe you. And even if there is one, it's because a turbo's spool energy comes from heat. And a cast manifold keeps more heat in because it's smaller. It's still massively less efficient.

AND there's an easy solution to that. Ceramic coat the tube manifold. BAM, better spool and more power.
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Old 08-03-2009, 08:17 PM   #8
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Quote:
Jon @ AGP Turbo
"A tubular manifold will only make more power than a log manifold when you exceed the power capability of the log manifold."
Quote:
C44 @ supraforums.com
"For low rpm quick spool you want a stocklike manifold because it's under pressure faster, but once the rpms go up (more airflow) you want a tubular manifold since it's easier on the flow (less 90 degree corners, no T style exit for the turbo flange)"
Quote:
Geoff @ Full Race
"The log manifold spooled the turbo about 250-300 rpm sooner than the equal length."
Geoff is referensing a test between a log manifold vs tubular manifold test, both purpose built by Full Race. If one of the best designed manifolds in the world is outspooled by a log manifold then I think it's safe to say log manifolds spool quicker.

Oh yea, and the dyno sheet.


Log manifold used in test


vs

Tubular manifold used in test
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Old 08-03-2009, 08:19 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX View Post
ROFL. Let me see a dyno that says that. Then I might believe you.
Happy?

Keep in mind these are both Full Race designs, awesome manifolds. This design is gonna far surpass your average cheap ass SR manifold.
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Old 08-03-2009, 08:41 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX View Post
Cast log manifolds suck. Very poor flow that hinders turbo spool.

Typical ignorant zilvia douche comment. Just because mommy bought you a shiny manifold doesnt mean everything else sucks.
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Old 08-03-2009, 11:59 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aNskY View Post
Typical ignorant zilvia douche comment. Just because mommy bought you a shiny manifold doesnt mean everything else sucks.
Hahahahahahaha. I do RESEARCH on things like this, not just believe everything that I read on a forum. I've studied exhaust systems from a scientific point of view. Not saying I'm the God of exhaust system design, but still.

I admit I was wrong about the dyno.

As I explained, the reason that a log manifold spools a turbo faster is because a tube manifold loses more heat than a log manifold. Ceramic coat that same tube manifold and I garauntee it outperforms the log in every way. 70% of a turbo's spool energy comes from heat.

You should also read Geoff's comments about twin-scroll manifolds and how the much better flow increases efficiency. The same applies to log vs tube.

And really, 250-300rpm? Are you really going to feel that all that much? Look at that dyno sheet! It's BARELY above the tube manfiold. How often are you going to replace your manifold? I say do it the right way the first time, buy a tube manifold, send it to Swain Tech, and have the best of both worlds.
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Old 08-04-2009, 12:19 AM   #12
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i think you have the wrong idea

not all log manifolds are cast, so the whole heat retaining thing is only partially true

the increase in spool comes from the short runner design, it takes less time to pressurize them

theres really nothing wrong with log manifolds, in fact ive been seeing more and more people opt for stock log style manifolds over stainless manifolds

Personally i wouldnt bother with a tubular manifold unless i was ready to drop the money on something like tomei, silk road or full race.
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Old 08-04-2009, 12:29 AM   #13
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Stainless steel, cast iron, the reason is the same (even though SS will actually lose a little less heat that cast iron). Log manifolds spool SLIGHTLY faster because they lose less heat.

70% from heat
30% from pressure

And pressure is all goofed up in a log manifold. What you're feeling/seeing on the dyno is from less heat loss. Even the stock SR manifold isn't a log-style. It has somewhat separated runners.
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Old 08-04-2009, 02:49 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX View Post
And really, 250-300rpm? Are you really going to feel that all that much? Look at that dyno sheet! It's BARELY above the tube manfiold.
300rpm is alot to some people. The difference between a 4.08 diff and a 4.36 is less than 400rpm and people still swap them. The difference between a ball bearing turbo and a journal bearing turbo is usually less than 500rpm yet people still pay almost twice the money for a ball bearing.
This isn't an argument about log vs tube, you simply said that log manifolds hurt spool with simply wasnt true, I beleive I made my point on that. Another thing you're missing though isn't how much more power the log makes in the lower RPM but instead when the tubular manifold actually makes more power is another 1000rpm up the rpm band when V-tec kicks in(test was a Honda motor). So the tubular manifold doesn't actually make more power until more than half-way through the power band, that's great for a drag car but not for a DD or an autocross car. On an SR where you have a constand cam lobe(not V-tec) it is gonna be alot later until the motor outflows the log manifold(possibly another 1000 rpm or more). So my point is if your worried about power between 5000-8000 rpm then get tubular, if not then don't. I run a tubular BTW.
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Old 08-04-2009, 08:54 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HYPNOTIK View Post
300rpm is alot to some people. The difference between a 4.08 diff and a 4.36 is less than 400rpm and people still swap them. The difference between a ball bearing turbo and a journal bearing turbo is usually less than 500rpm yet people still pay almost twice the money for a ball bearing.
This isn't an argument about log vs tube, you simply said that log manifolds hurt spool with simply wasnt true, I beleive I made my point on that. Another thing you're missing though isn't how much more power the log makes in the lower RPM but instead when the tubular manifold actually makes more power is another 1000rpm up the rpm band when V-tec kicks in(test was a Honda motor). So the tubular manifold doesn't actually make more power until more than half-way through the power band, that's great for a drag car but not for a DD or an autocross car. On an SR where you have a constand cam lobe(not V-tec) it is gonna be alot later until the motor outflows the log manifold(possibly another 1000 rpm or more). So my point is if your worried about power between 5000-8000 rpm then get tubular, if not then don't. I run a tubular BTW.
You have a good point on the RPM. But am I mistaken on reading the dyno chart, or is the log manifold only making like 2 more hp in the lower rpm range?

Plus, as I stated before, a tubular manifolds better flow combined with ceramic coating will outperform a log manifold at low rpm.

So basically we're debating cheap and easy vs. the best performance.
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Old 08-04-2009, 02:30 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX View Post
Hahahahahahaha. I do RESEARCH on things like this, not just believe everything that I read on a forum. I've studied exhaust systems from a scientific point of view.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PoorMans180SX View Post

I admit I was wrong about the dyno..

there goes all of your research and science out the window.
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Old 08-09-2009, 12:56 PM   #17
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thanks for all of the input, i didn't think this topic was gonna go into this much detail. just asking about fitment issues...but cool
thanks everyone.
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Old 08-09-2009, 09:23 PM   #18
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so does anyone else there own dyno of these log manifolds?
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Old 08-10-2009, 03:52 PM   #19
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No but i was really hoping Poor Man would come try to back up his science
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Old 08-11-2009, 11:03 AM   #20
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From what I've seen so far, I'd put my money on Threadstone first before I buy a Godspeed manifold.

PS: Would you be interested on a top mount turbo setup? I may have a whole setup available, PM me if interested.
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Old 08-11-2009, 06:19 PM   #21
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idk, to me it looks like the turbo flange on the mani isnt tilted outward. and if your running a rwd DE like me the intake piping has to have a crazy angle just to miss the distrib. lol
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Old 09-02-2012, 12:26 PM   #22
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any update on this very interested on the setup please post pics so i can see got a 35r that needs some love
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