cotbu

You have wiring issues, you can't make the engine run that cold even with a continuous blast of c02 after warm up.

ask yourself a few questions, why is my door dummy light on? and Why is my e brake light still on? Then fix them cause they have nothing to do with the engine swap, but may shed some light on why your oem temp gauge is geeking out.

Assuming you have the proper thermistor to cluster, temp sensor! HTMS!!!

__________________

LoverTechnologies "Half Broken Things!"

rwtf

no.....just no.... I have a aftermarket gauge also and it goes down as well with the guage on the cluster, so no, its not wiring...door light is on b/c I need to fix the switch, all it does it turn on the dome light when door opens.... derp.

as for the eBrake its b/c my res doesn't have the sensor so it stays on.

__________________

cotbu

So i mistakenly to your shitty video for a stock gauge?
with the sensor unplugged the light doesn't turn on or does it can't remember, but you light is on period! Wiring problem! If your door switch is malfunctioning wiring problem or better yet electrical problem. And you fail to understand that wiring issues will cause the electrical system to do crazy things! yeah DERP DERP!!

Unless you think your problem is normal!
It's a wiring, electrical, or grounding issue! Damn even if the alternator was back feeding...... never mind good sir/ma'am good luck!

I'm sorry just in case any other noobs, have an issue like this, thought i might help them out with a solution, or a way to narrow the issue down.
If you can power and ground your aftermarket gauge with an external source or use a external temp probe or thermometer take the temperature with that. I used a portable starter to power and test my wring before I add the new circuit to the cars wiring. "Redundant, but that's why we get the big bucks!"

__________________

LoverTechnologies "Half Broken Things!"

rwtf

omfg. stop being a dumbass. FIRST off it was the stock gauge, second its kinda hard to hold a phone, turn and and shift at the same time. third. ITS NOT A FUCKING WIRING ISSUE.

When I swapped BMC the res didnt have the low fluid sensor so i left it unplugged and the light stayed. big fuckin whoop.

and alternator was back feeding? wtf are you talking about?

and my aftermarket guage uses a thermo probe in the hose, DOES THE SAME THING AS MY STOCK TEMP GAUGE.

and please learn to read. Ive stated all this before. I'm sorry but you do not know what you're talking about.

__________________

cotbu

Your shit has been broken for at least 3 months and I'm the "dumbass"!
have fun!

And you didn't even mention this but again for the stupid persons
21 yr olds

__________________

LoverTechnologies "Half Broken Things!"

rwtf

nothing its "broken" DUMBASS.

and why did you quote yourself? Nothing of use, its nothing electrical.

go fuck yourself dude. No REAL useful info.

__________________

cotbu

hey dude, did you fix your problem yet?
Hahahahhaaaaaaaaahahahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhahah!

So Lame!

__________________

LoverTechnologies "Half Broken Things!"

rwtf

umm...okay...? Looks like someone is a little immature...

and actually yes. so go fuck yourself, it was nothing electrical.

__________________

cotbu

You won't even admit your shit is still fucked up X D ! ! !
Or you used my help to fix it, either way I had fun playing with you, and not myself!

__________________

LoverTechnologies "Half Broken Things!"

rwtf

Sounds like you got your own head stuck up your ass.

and no, its not, and no nothing you said was the problem, and what are you like 12? stop acting like it.

You're just a idiot. Thanks for nothing.

__________________

cotbu

Your welcome!

__________________

LoverTechnologies "Half Broken Things!"

Mikester

Can you please tell us all what the fix was? Kinda the whole point of a tech thread.

__________________

Mikester

C'mon dude- spill it. If it wasn't what cotbu thought it was, no worries- Please enlighten those who may need the info later on.

__________________

KiLLeR2001

A) It was electrical like cotbu said.

B) Still not fixed.

__________________

rwtf

OMFG please read, IT. WAS. NOT. ELETRICAL, IF I HAVE A FUCKING AFTER MARKET GAUGE THATS NOT TIED IN WITH THE ELETRICAL AT ALL, THEN HOW DOES IT READ THE SAME. DERP FUCKING DERP.


and yes, IT WAS fixed, happened to be a bad hose under my intake letting air in my system, so fuck you. BUT, it still drops because I re installed my nismo Tstat, but once I stop for a min or 2 it comes back to where its supposed to.

fucking learn to read.

__________________

future

So basically it was a electrical problem?

Sorry I had to hahahaha

__________________

rwtf

electrical fairies, and unicorns in my coolant.

__________________

Mikester

Doesn't letting air into the system involve letting coolant out? I would think that a leak would cause the temp to skyrockt, not read cold on both gauges. Which hose was leaking?

__________________

rwtf

Well I thought so to, that's why i didn't suspect it, it was one of the heater hoses under the intake, but i'm about to replace all of them with new silicone hoses.

__________________

KiLLeR2001

Haha typical newb doesn't even know he had a coolant leak, which means you didn't bleed it properly because if you continue to see air bubbles you don't just say "Ok thats good enough!" No wonder why no one could help you because you forgot to mention the puddle of coolant collecting underneath your car.

__________________

rwtf

actually, fuck you, I knew there was a leak, and it didnt leave "puddles" it was a few drops, and I always kept it topped off and checked all the time. And I'm looking into replacing all the hoses.

so you can go fuck yourself. nub.

__________________

Mikester

OK got it, there was a leak. I still don't understand why temps read abnormally low instead of abnormally high? Esepcially with two functional, independent indicating systems taking readings.

Anyone?

rwtf, I'm not passing judgement here, but if you were wrong- your very best course of action is to admit it, explain what you learned and take your lumps instead of dragging this thread out. These guys will be much less likely to fuck with you now and in the future. This advice will serve you well for the rest of your time on this forum (or any other). These dudes prey on weakness... and the absolute weakest thing you can do is argue for the sake of arguing... or argue to defend a ship that they know is already sunk We all make rookie mistakes... Happens to the best of us- the difference between you & us old folk is that we laugh it off when we do.

Not telling to do anything other than think about this before you go back into keyboard-warrior mode. I only mean to help you when I say you are doing a better job of making an ass of yourself than explaining what the exact problem turned out to be.

__________________

rwtf

Idk either, it baffles me too, I had a KA with air pockets and it read high until I bleed it, but with this it was the opposite , the KA didn't have a leak it just wasn't bled right, but maybe the location has something to do with it?

But I'm looking for a hose kit to replace all the hoses with new ones.

__________________

Mikester

To replace your under intake hoses on S13 SR, you need 3/4" hose (main heater line feeds, heater line to heater core & AAC valve air line), a section of 1" hose (one small junction to the top heater feed), and some 5/16" hose (throttle body coolant lines, AAC valve coolant lines).

If you plan to replace all those lines, it would behoove you to go ahead and delete the turbine coolant line between the motor & firewall. There is already a thread here on that very subject. Also, if you don't feel like cutting & fabbing heater lines, FRSport has an SR20 heater line adapter kit that plugs/plays with your existing tubing.

__________________

rwtf

Its a s14 notch top, I saw a silicone hose kit on ebay for like 60 bux but it said it for was GTiR not sure if the hoses are the same or not.

__________________