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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15. |
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09-09-2011, 06:17 PM | #1 |
Zilvia Addict
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: New Jersey
Age: 33
Posts: 709
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Feedback Score: 14 reviews
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Eff me!?!?
please tell me i dont have to take my trans back off...but im bleeding my clutch slave and the piston barely moves the fork and then i tried to move the clutch fork with my hand and it barely moves, i have a pic, looking at the pic the fork only moves to the right or towards the front of the car. in the pic that is as far left or to the back is it will go and i still have no feel in the pedal
i swear i put the fork and bearing in correctly... anyone have any input for me? good or bad |
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09-10-2011, 02:15 AM | #2 |
Zilvia Addict
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bleed the slave some more. top off the clutch master cylinder, leave the lid off then open the slave cylinder`s bleeder valve and let it gravity bleed for a couple of minutes. make sure you keep the master full. letting it run out of fluid will let air back into the system. close the slave`s bleeder valve and pump the pedal a few times till you feel a little pressure build up. get some one to pump the pedal a few times while you get ready to open the bleeder valve again. while the pedal is down, open and close the bleeder valve really quick. repeat this until the pedal becomes normal. make sure not to let the master cylinder run out of fluid at any time. if there is still no pressure build up, you might have to replace the clutch master and slave cylinders and do the bleeding process over again. a good clue that your master and slave are bad is a very dark brake fluid in the master. if your brake fluid in the master was very dark before you bled the system, you might need to replace the master and slave. what happens is the dirt is keeping everything sealed. once you replace the fluid, you clean the dirt out and the seal goes away. why did you bleed the clutch? i don`t usually bleed the clutch after clutch replacement, unless the slave`s piston popped out.
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09-10-2011, 08:25 AM | #3 |
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: cincinnati/dayton/columbus OH
Posts: 448
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make sure your clutch pedal is fully disengaging. if it is not, it is not opening the bleeder in the master and you'll never get it bled. get up under the dash and adjust it, or just turn it until there is maximum travel on the master
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09-10-2011, 08:51 AM | #5 |
Zilvia Addict
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: New Jersey
Age: 33
Posts: 709
Trader Rating: (14)
Feedback Score: 14 reviews
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i did a sr20 swap so everything was disconnected and thats why im bleeding it, the clutch pedal still stays down by itself when bleeding but i am getting clean fluid to come out
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09-14-2011, 02:09 AM | #9 |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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Are you bleeding it correctly? You pretty much need 2 folks. One to pump the brakes and one to open it up and close it. Have the person pumping the pedals atleast 10x, hold it down, open the bleeder, shut it back up. Attached a hose into a clear bottle with some fluid in it so you can see if you're getting bubbles or not. When you stopped seeing bubbles, it should be bled. Make sure you keep the BMC reservois topped off. If it goes empty while your doing this, you'd have to bleed it again.
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