K_style

Ok, I got stock S14 SR20 intake manifold and need to get some extra Vacuum/boost nipple made to get dedicated source instead of using T fittings.

What would be the best way to make an extra vacuum nipple??

EsChassisLove

Remove the top plenum, drill it, tap it to the fitting you have(any ace, Home Depot etc has barb fittings), clean out any metal shavings from intake and put it back on


Edit-but a vacuum box seems like an easier route.

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IG/TikTok-ThatS14_Z06guy

K_style

Should I put something around it though? like silicone or something?

K_style

Ok, I see this option here like you said.

What is difference this and t fitting? larger amount of air source to split up?

ultimateirving

Not much difference between a vac distro block and a t-fitting, other then you can mount it, multiple connections, and i would think a better connection.(less likely to leak)
Cuz i too was trying to reduce my "t's"
Now if you have a greddy/freddy itm, they do include extra ports for additional vac lines on the bottom side.

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Z32 with lq4 swap
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K_style

I see.. I guess I will decide depends how many extra vacuum source is needed..

I like my stock intake manifold. I totally feel unnecessary to upgrade that.

Mikester

However you decide to do it, just remember that your FPR vacuum line is the one thing you want to avoid tee-ing at all costs. I prefer a vacuum manifold... That way, I can keep my FPR line by itself on one side of the bay, and keep everything else on the other side with just one line going into the cockpit for my EBC & Defi link thru a firewall grommet. I have a FReddy intake, but keep all the additional ports plugged b/c I am not a fan of vac lines going across the bay. Also, like dude said above; if everything has its own port, there are theoretically less potential points of failure.

If you aren't comfortable tapping the intake, you can tap the hot and/or cold pipes. To answer your question above, you shouldn't need any sealant. I use thread tape on all my -AN & barb fittings; but I am sort of anal lol. Also, a rule of thumb I go by is to keep the FPR vacuum as close to the rail as possible, and the boost sensing/controlling lines as close to the source of boost as possible... Hope this helps~

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ForeignMuscle

Remember that tapping charge pipes will eliminate vacuum reference.

ultimateirving

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ This is what is important.
if the source needs to see vac when the throttle body is closed.. then do not tap off of he charge pipes

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Z32 with lq4 swap
Desert Street Scene || Dssevents.com

K_style

I just got the vacuum manifold from e1_griego today..

That should solve my problem.

e1_griego

Glad i still had that kicking around.

K_style

Yep. and I am glad I kept that intercooler kicking around.