SR20 Exhaust manifolds that dont crack? - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

Grimace · 08-15-2011, 10:23 AM

What exhaust manifolds are people running that actually do their job and don't fall apart? I've tried 3 different manifolds now with pretty much the same results.

Heres my Mazworx manifold after 3 months / 6000 miles.

Okinawandrifter87 · 08-15-2011, 10:27 AM

Have you thought about using stock exhaust manifold but porting and polishing it out and then getting it swain coated after?

Grimace · 08-15-2011, 10:34 AM

I've thought about it, but really wanted to stay topmount. I plan on pushing 400+ out of this engine before im done with the car.

whitey240 · 08-15-2011, 11:55 AM

Those are some amazing cracks. Does your car sit outside? What do your EGT's look like at peak?

OkiDori17 · 08-15-2011, 02:03 PM

full race manifolds are really nice and youll keep your topmount. my buddy has one and it works amazingly, i have mine sitting at home waiting to be installed =]

dopplganger1 · 08-15-2011, 02:23 PM

The mainfold is not always the problem. What does your downpipe setup look like? Does it hang below the frame rail? Does it have a flex section? Because any of your exhaust scrapping would put a strain on it since the whole leverage factor. Then also the egt plays a factor

Sent from my T-Mobile myTouch 3G Slide using Tapatalk

codyace · 08-15-2011, 03:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dopplganger1

The mainfold is not always the problem. What does your downpipe setup look like? Does it hang below the frame rail? Does it have a flex section? Because any of your exhaust scrapping would put a strain on it since the whole leverage factor. Then also the egt plays a factor

Well said. Flex section is a must regardless. Any turbo bracing?

*fliprayzin240sx* · 08-15-2011, 04:57 PM

Funny how this came up...my Mazworx manifold did the same shit around the WG neck. Thats the funny shit too, it cracked on a spot that shouldnt have cracked since there really isnt any stress on it other than having a MV44 wastegate and open dump tube on it. My DP had a flex pipe on it. I didnt even know it was cracked since it was wrapped. The guy I just recently sold it too noticed the soot burn on the wrap under the flange and peeled it back.

I'm still pissed about since I spent $800 on it with the same result as a damn Ebay one. Atleast if the Ebay one cracked, i wouldnt be so pissed since i would have expected it to crack.

Send it back to Mazworx and have them reweld it. Considering its cracking on the weld instead of the metal, I'd blame the welds.

codyace · 08-15-2011, 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx

Send it back to Mazworx and have them reweld it. Considering its cracking on the weld instead of the metal, I'd blame the welds.

Without a doubt that is the issue. It's one thing if the pipe cracks, another if it breaks exactly along the weld

HIGHFIVEBETA · 08-15-2011, 10:48 PM

Mark should be able to fix it no questions asked. The oem one should do wonders but what can you do if you have a top mount setup... You need a tubular piece.

My isis bottom mount is still holding up just fine!

rcdad123 · 08-15-2011, 10:53 PM

tube exhaust manifolds are pretty thin, unless you use the 1/8 inch kind that they use on log type manifolds. you have to use a really good design(very effective), brace to hold the turbo`s weight. i used to race a car with a big heavy turbo on a full race tubular exhaust manifold that never cracked because of the effective triangulated design brace that it had. it was not a race car, it was a daily driver honda civic with a gt35r making 600+WHP. the manifold is not designed to hold the weight of the turbo, you have to have a brace.

usdm180sx · 08-16-2011, 12:20 AM

Full race

laksjdjhfhg

1quk240 · 08-16-2011, 01:28 AM

Mine don't crack and are backed by a warranty. Also having a flexpipe on the downpipe helps. Check out my work. I've sold a couple manifolds to people on here

http://zilvia.net/f/gb-forced-induct...0-gtx3071.html

Pm me if you have any questions

codyace · 08-16-2011, 09:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1quk240

Mine don't crack and are backed by a warranty. Also having a flexpipe on the downpipe helps. Check out my work. I've sold a couple manifolds to people on here

http://zilvia.net/f/gb-forced-induct...0-gtx3071.html

Pm me if you have any questions

That's a nice little setup!

1quk240 · 08-16-2011, 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by codyace

That's a nice little setup!

Thanks. Should have video and dyno numbers on my daily driver soon

codyace · 08-16-2011, 08:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1quk240

Thanks. Should have video and dyno numbers on my daily driver soon

I know where I"m pointing people now for Top Mount setups

*andrew600* · 08-17-2011, 09:08 AM

i like my stock mani. no issues at all

1quk240 · 08-17-2011, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by codyace

I know where I"m pointing people now for Top Mount setups

For sure! I will be coming up with a new design soon also.

Zerolift Autolab · 08-17-2011, 10:00 AM

Mazworx does warranty their manifolds.
Contact them regarding your issue.

Howie Felter Snatch · 08-24-2011, 03:47 PM

My understanding is that some exhaust manifolds are not designed to withstand the full weight of a turbo/elbow/downpipe configuration. How low is your 240 and have you ever had any scraping issues with any of your exhaust components?

brian3676 · 08-25-2011, 04:04 PM

The DOC Race ones are really nice. In reality though, all SS manifolds will crack in time no matter how good of quality SS or welds there are. Its the flaw of SS manifolds. You can always add bracing to help support the turbo and downpipe.

DOCRACE.COM | CUSTOM TURBO MANIFOLDS | PERFORMANCE PARTS

s14unimog · 08-26-2011, 02:13 PM

I've had two Tomei's crack in two different locations... Here is the most recent failure. Before anyone assumes insanity, the cracks were in completely different areas. The first was within the divider at the collector and now these at the runners. Tomei replaced it once, I'm currently waiting to repair this one in an effort to see if they'll replace this one too. for reference, I have a flex section on the vertical drop, polly hangers, poly engine/trans mounts... this shouldn't happen.

What troubles me about manifold failures is that they often seem to be within the weld, as if it split apart. Correct me if I'm wrong (which I'm not) but shouldn't the weld be as strong as the surrounding material; of course if welded correctly? My understanding is that the surrounding material should fail before a quaility weld should. WHY do almost all SS manifolds have little bitty tiny TIG welds that almost look fused with no filler rod? Why not triple pass that shit; lets see a broken tube FOR ONCE!

copmagnet · 08-26-2011, 09:11 PM

the weld itself should be STRONGER than the metal around it for the most part. If the weld breaks, its a bad weld. The metal should give around the weld before the weld itself does.

Pictures 1,2, and 3 all look to be broken along the edge of the weld, except one spot that crossed. Meaning the metal failed, not the weld. Pic 4 is an obvious weld fail. Stainless steel is extremely brittle, it doesn't have nearly the "give" to it of regular steel. Probably one reason it cracks so easy, what with the weight of a turbo sitting on it and all. There's a lot of leverage at work hanging a turbo off the side of the engine, get some heavy duty bracing in there to support it, should help a lot.

s14unimog · 08-27-2011, 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by copmagnet

Pictures 1,2, and 3 all look to be broken along the edge of the weld, except one spot that crossed

Before agreeing with you I think its important to consider that the starting point of the failure has significantly more to do with the diagnosis rather than pictures of the most visible damage. I wonder where it gave first... We're all pretty aware of the weight of turbo system here and the likeliness of damaging stress it can induce on a manifold, so no need to reiterate what caused it.

copmagnet · 08-28-2011, 02:15 AM

Well sure, but its damn near impossible to tell from the closeup pics where the likely starting point was. Anybody with much welding/fabrication experience could look at them and figure that out fairly quickly though I should think. From what little I can see, it looks to me like there just wasn't enough filler put in. The weld cut into the steel slightly, and without the right amount of filler was undercut on either side slightly. Therefore, the steel in those places was thinner than in other, and more prone to failure. Concave weld beads is what makes me lean towards that conclusion, a proper weld should be more convex. Now I'm no master fabricator by any means, but I did do steelwork and welding for a living for quite a few years. Better pics would go a long way towards figuring it out, but in this case its already broken so a bit late. Too much emphasis on pretty welds and not enough on strong ones imo.

codyace · 08-28-2011, 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by copmagnet

t Concave weld beads is what makes me lean towards that conclusion, a proper weld should be more convex. Now I'm no master fabricator by any means, but I did do steelwork and welding for a living for quite a few years. Better pics would go a long way towards figuring it out, but in this case its already broken so a bit late. Too much emphasis on pretty welds and not enough on strong ones imo.

I'm with you on that one for sure. It seems like most of these manifolds always seem to have a lack of filler material in the welds (dare I say most of them are done this way to look pretty, as forum experts place appearence first when it comes to welding).

Like above, lack of bracing is another thing that so many skip. I know when we're hanging T4+ turbos off a v8 setup, we always try to brace it with a hard/metal brace to the block (or to a chassis point if flex sections or motor plate cars) to help alleviate stress.

codyace · 08-28-2011, 09:11 AM

Another thing I've often wondered, is if the flange itself is partly responsible for the failure as well....it seems like manifolds with split ports seem to have less issues than ones using a solid piece btween them all.

Also curious as if the Tomei piece is 100% stainless on the flange as well, or if it's regular steel. To me if it was all stainless, that may lead to failure as well.

s14unimog · 08-28-2011, 04:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by copmagnet

From what little I can see, it looks to me like there just wasn't enough filler put in. Too much emphasis on pretty welds and not enough on strong ones imo.

Exactly where I'm at on this... I just don't see the reason for little bitty TIG welds; outside appearance of course.

Quote:

Originally Posted by codyace

I'm with you on that one for sure. It seems like most of these manifolds always seem to have a lack of filler material in the welds (dare I say most of them are done this way to look pretty, as forum experts place appearence first when it comes to welding).

same thing, exactly my thoughts...

Quote:

Originally Posted by codyace

Another thing I've often wondered, is if the flange itself is partly responsible for the failure as well....it seems like manifolds with split ports seem to have less issues than ones using a solid piece btween them all. Also curious as if the Tomei piece is 100% stainless on the flange as well, or if it's regular steel. To me if it was all stainless, that may lead to failure as well.

From what I could tell about the piece when I first got it I'm fairly sure its 100% stainless. I actually spoke with Tomei Friday and they intend to warranty the claim. Question is now, should I take advantage of that at their expenses with this likely to happen again or reweld it, recoat it, and have it on the motor in a couple days; I'm looking at 2 weeks + if I follow up with the claim.

Grimace · 08-30-2011, 10:42 AM

Update from my end...

My downpipe, Nor any part of my exhaust has ever hit the ground. The lowest point is the kit on the car, and I'm just not baller enough to let this kit touch the ground. I don't have any bracing on my turbo, and never have. I don't see how bracing the turbo is going to keep the wastegate tube/welds from failing. I shouldn't have to brace the wastegate on a 700 dollar "top of the line" manifold anyways.

Mazworx did warranty the manifold, but I had to ship it at my cost. They said turn around time should be 2 weeks. However, anytime I ever hear 2 weeks from a shop I smell bullshit. Monday the 5th is their deadline, and as Ive yet to receive an email, phone call, or any word at all. I doubt it will be on time.

I gotta say, So far I'm not impressed by Mazworx regardless of how their shop car preforms. Issues thus far.

1. They straight out lied to me about the fitment of the manifold. I asked and was told 3 times before ordering this manifold that it had ZERO fitment issues on RHD cars. Welp, That simply isnt true. You have to move the heater lines for the downpipe to clear, and even then the rubber hoses sit MAYBE 1/4 inch away from it. You simply can not route them out of the way due to where they connect through the firewall. When I called and told them about this, they simply said "just take out the heater lines".

2. After the manifold failed they refused to pay to ship the manifold to them. I can provide proof that the manifold was used less then 3 months. My car was on the dyno 05-27-11, This is the first time/day this manifold was used. I started to hear an exhaust leak I thought to be a failed gasket around the end of last month. The manifold then totally failed 08-10-11. Their excuse is I bought the manifold back in January which is true, However until 05-27-11 it sat in a climate controlled room/shop not even bolted to engine.

The bottom line is, Their manifold failed due to quality control/design flaws. The customer service I have received sucks. They wouldn't even work with me over a 25 dollar shipping charge. Let alone the 80 dollars in gaskets I have to buy again. I will not recommend any parts or service from Mazworx after this. Which is disappointing as I was planning on buying the z32 trans adapter kit, and the solid axle conversion for our cars.

Sorry for the long post, Just felt the need to vent that out there.

Highway Riding · 08-30-2011, 10:49 AM

Thanks for sharing.. Been looking at all of these mani's and am glad I stayed with the stock sr....

08-15-2011, 10:23 AM	#1
Grimace Zilvia Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Savannah GA/SC Age: 31 Posts: 157 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	SR20 Exhaust manifolds that dont crack? What exhaust manifolds are people running that actually do their job and don't fall apart? I've tried 3 different manifolds now with pretty much the same results. Heres my Mazworx manifold after 3 months / 6000 miles.

08-15-2011, 10:27 AM	#2
Okinawandrifter87 Post Whore! Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 3,959 Trader Rating: (22) Feedback Score: 22 reviews	Have you thought about using stock exhaust manifold but porting and polishing it out and then getting it swain coated after? __________________ Driftphreak87

08-15-2011, 11:55 AM	#4
whitey240 Zilvia Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 200 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	Those are some amazing cracks. Does your car sit outside? What do your EGT's look like at peak? __________________ 1993 Nissan 240sx - SR20VET VVL, GT30R \|\| [email protected]

08-15-2011, 02:03 PM	#5
OkiDori17 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Columbus, GA Posts: 373 Trader Rating: (6) Feedback Score: 6 reviews	full race manifolds are really nice and youll keep your topmount. my buddy has one and it works amazingly, i have mine sitting at home waiting to be installed =] __________________ '92 240sx w/'93 SR Blacktop /// '94 RX7 FD3S /// '11 370z RIP

08-15-2011, 04:57 PM	#8
fliprayzin240sx Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Tampa Posts: 17,998 Trader Rating: (19) Rides Gallery: fliprayzin240sx Feedback Score: 19 reviews	Funny how this came up...my Mazworx manifold did the same shit around the WG neck. Thats the funny shit too, it cracked on a spot that shouldnt have cracked since there really isnt any stress on it other than having a MV44 wastegate and open dump tube on it. My DP had a flex pipe on it. I didnt even know it was cracked since it was wrapped. The guy I just recently sold it too noticed the soot burn on the wrap under the flange and peeled it back. I'm still pissed about since I spent $800 on it with the same result as a damn Ebay one. Atleast if the Ebay one cracked, i wouldnt be so pissed since i would have expected it to crack. Send it back to Mazworx and have them reweld it. Considering its cracking on the weld instead of the metal, I'd blame the welds. __________________ If you think Zilvia has too many assholes... CLICK HERE!!!

08-15-2011, 10:34 AM	#3
Grimace Zilvia Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Savannah GA/SC Age: 31 Posts: 157 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	I've thought about it, but really wanted to stay topmount. I plan on pushing 400+ out of this engine before im done with the car.

08-15-2011, 10:48 PM	#10
HIGHFIVEBETA Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Where the wild things are, FL Posts: 327 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	Mark should be able to fix it no questions asked. The oem one should do wonders but what can you do if you have a top mount setup... You need a tubular piece. My isis bottom mount is still holding up just fine!

08-15-2011, 10:53 PM	#11
rcdad123 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: san diego Posts: 639 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	tube exhaust manifolds are pretty thin, unless you use the 1/8 inch kind that they use on log type manifolds. you have to use a really good design(very effective), brace to hold the turbo`s weight. i used to race a car with a big heavy turbo on a full race tubular exhaust manifold that never cracked because of the effective triangulated design brace that it had. it was not a race car, it was a daily driver honda civic with a gt35r making 600+WHP. the manifold is not designed to hold the weight of the turbo, you have to have a brace.

08-16-2011, 12:20 AM	#12
usdm180sx Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: 562 Posts: 4,807 Trader Rating: (5) Rides Gallery: usdm180sx Feedback Score: 5 reviews	Full race laksjdjhfhg __________________ -Norm!

08-16-2011, 01:28 AM	#13
1quk240 Banned from the Marketplace Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Planet Earth Posts: 768 Trader Rating: (21) Feedback Score: 21 reviews	Mine don't crack and are backed by a warranty. Also having a flexpipe on the downpipe helps. Check out my work. I've sold a couple manifolds to people on here http://zilvia.net/f/gb-forced-induct...0-gtx3071.html Pm me if you have any questions

08-17-2011, 09:08 AM	#17
andrew600 ill tongue punch her fart box Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: bethalto, il Age: 31 Posts: 1,221 Trader Rating: (12) Feedback Score: 12 reviews	i like my stock mani. no issues at all

08-17-2011, 10:00 AM	#19
Zerolift Autolab Post Whore! Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Fairfield, OH 45014 Age: 38 Posts: 2,804 Trader Rating: (12) Feedback Score: 12 reviews	Mazworx does warranty their manifolds. Contact them regarding your issue. __________________ Contact: Phone - 513-874-2508 AIM - ZLR0bert Email - [email protected] Zerolift facebook - http://www.facebook.com/Zerolift

08-24-2011, 03:47 PM	#20
Howie Felter Snatch Zilvia Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: USA/Australia/Japan Posts: 223 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	My understanding is that some exhaust manifolds are not designed to withstand the full weight of a turbo/elbow/downpipe configuration. How low is your 240 and have you ever had any scraping issues with any of your exhaust components?

08-25-2011, 04:04 PM	#21
brian3676 Zilvia Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: portland Age: 33 Posts: 205 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	The DOC Race ones are really nice. In reality though, all SS manifolds will crack in time no matter how good of quality SS or welds there are. Its the flaw of SS manifolds. You can always add bracing to help support the turbo and downpipe. DOCRACE.COM \| CUSTOM TURBO MANIFOLDS \| PERFORMANCE PARTS

08-26-2011, 02:13 PM	#22
s14unimog Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: In a place, near a river, over a lake Age: 34 Posts: 2,415 Trader Rating: (22) Rides Gallery: s14unimog Feedback Score: 22 reviews	I've had two Tomei's crack in two different locations... Here is the most recent failure. Before anyone assumes insanity, the cracks were in completely different areas. The first was within the divider at the collector and now these at the runners. Tomei replaced it once, I'm currently waiting to repair this one in an effort to see if they'll replace this one too. for reference, I have a flex section on the vertical drop, polly hangers, poly engine/trans mounts... this shouldn't happen. What troubles me about manifold failures is that they often seem to be within the weld, as if it split apart. Correct me if I'm wrong (which I'm not) but shouldn't the weld be as strong as the surrounding material; of course if welded correctly? My understanding is that the surrounding material should fail before a quaility weld should. WHY do almost all SS manifolds have little bitty tiny TIG welds that almost look fused with no filler rod? Why not triple pass that shit; lets see a broken tube FOR ONCE! __________________ Fuking ginger bread man stole my wallet... SHIFT*lock_slide to side d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

08-26-2011, 09:11 PM	#23
copmagnet Leaky Injector Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: clarksville IN Age: 46 Posts: 83 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	the weld itself should be STRONGER than the metal around it for the most part. If the weld breaks, its a bad weld. The metal should give around the weld before the weld itself does. Pictures 1,2, and 3 all look to be broken along the edge of the weld, except one spot that crossed. Meaning the metal failed, not the weld. Pic 4 is an obvious weld fail. Stainless steel is extremely brittle, it doesn't have nearly the "give" to it of regular steel. Probably one reason it cracks so easy, what with the weight of a turbo sitting on it and all. There's a lot of leverage at work hanging a turbo off the side of the engine, get some heavy duty bracing in there to support it, should help a lot.

08-28-2011, 02:15 AM	#25
copmagnet Leaky Injector Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: clarksville IN Age: 46 Posts: 83 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	Well sure, but its damn near impossible to tell from the closeup pics where the likely starting point was. Anybody with much welding/fabrication experience could look at them and figure that out fairly quickly though I should think. From what little I can see, it looks to me like there just wasn't enough filler put in. The weld cut into the steel slightly, and without the right amount of filler was undercut on either side slightly. Therefore, the steel in those places was thinner than in other, and more prone to failure. Concave weld beads is what makes me lean towards that conclusion, a proper weld should be more convex. Now I'm no master fabricator by any means, but I did do steelwork and welding for a living for quite a few years. Better pics would go a long way towards figuring it out, but in this case its already broken so a bit late. Too much emphasis on pretty welds and not enough on strong ones imo.

08-28-2011, 09:11 AM	#27
codyace Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Poconos, PA Age: 36 Posts: 8,030 Trader Rating: (58) Feedback Score: 58 reviews	Another thing I've often wondered, is if the flange itself is partly responsible for the failure as well....it seems like manifolds with split ports seem to have less issues than ones using a solid piece btween them all. Also curious as if the Tomei piece is 100% stainless on the flange as well, or if it's regular steel. To me if it was all stainless, that may lead to failure as well. __________________ *Want Air Conditioning in your SR20 Swapped car? Check out www.sr20acbrackets.com for more information! Quest Alternator Conversions for SR20!* Check my Group Buy! Tired of lousy internal gates? Go external wastegate with one of my manifolds, Check out my group buy

08-30-2011, 10:42 AM	#29
Grimace Zilvia Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Savannah GA/SC Age: 31 Posts: 157 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	Update from my end... My downpipe, Nor any part of my exhaust has ever hit the ground. The lowest point is the kit on the car, and I'm just not baller enough to let this kit touch the ground. I don't have any bracing on my turbo, and never have. I don't see how bracing the turbo is going to keep the wastegate tube/welds from failing. I shouldn't have to brace the wastegate on a 700 dollar "top of the line" manifold anyways. Mazworx did warranty the manifold, but I had to ship it at my cost. They said turn around time should be 2 weeks. However, anytime I ever hear 2 weeks from a shop I smell bullshit. Monday the 5th is their deadline, and as Ive yet to receive an email, phone call, or any word at all. I doubt it will be on time. I gotta say, So far I'm not impressed by Mazworx regardless of how their shop car preforms. Issues thus far. 1. They straight out lied to me about the fitment of the manifold. I asked and was told 3 times before ordering this manifold that it had ZERO fitment issues on RHD cars. Welp, That simply isnt true. You have to move the heater lines for the downpipe to clear, and even then the rubber hoses sit MAYBE 1/4 inch away from it. You simply can not route them out of the way due to where they connect through the firewall. When I called and told them about this, they simply said "just take out the heater lines". 2. After the manifold failed they refused to pay to ship the manifold to them. I can provide proof that the manifold was used less then 3 months. My car was on the dyno 05-27-11, This is the first time/day this manifold was used. I started to hear an exhaust leak I thought to be a failed gasket around the end of last month. The manifold then totally failed 08-10-11. Their excuse is I bought the manifold back in January which is true, However until 05-27-11 it sat in a climate controlled room/shop not even bolted to engine. The bottom line is, Their manifold failed due to quality control/design flaws. The customer service I have received sucks. They wouldn't even work with me over a 25 dollar shipping charge. Let alone the 80 dollars in gaskets I have to buy again. I will not recommend any parts or service from Mazworx after this. Which is disappointing as I was planning on buying the z32 trans adapter kit, and the solid axle conversion for our cars. Sorry for the long post, Just felt the need to vent that out there.

08-30-2011, 10:49 AM	#30
Highway Riding Zilvia Addict Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Out on the Highway! Posts: 602 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Thanks for sharing.. Been looking at all of these mani's and am glad I stayed with the stock sr....

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