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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15.


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Old 03-15-2011, 10:38 AM   #1
Spring Break '92
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KA overheating issue

I have a KA-T, and when I first start driving and the engine gets warm, the water temp starts to rise above normal, but only going uphill. When I turn on the heater and put the fan on full blast it goes down. Im thinking its just some air in the system. I opened the radiator cap when the car had been sitting overnight, and it had pressure in it that I released. I drove it afterward and it started doing the same thing. I let the pressure out after driving through the coolant bleed screw. Checked the oil, nothing abnormal. Not seeing anything in the coolant either. Could my HG be slightly leaking before the engine is up to full operating temp, or could my thermostat be going bad? The coolant temp sensor is fairly new and OEM.
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Old 03-15-2011, 11:32 AM   #2
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since the issue is occuring only when you drive up hill, i too would believe its an air-bleeding issue.

have you bled the system with the front of the car elevated (i.e.- park uphill or jack the front end up)? this will cause those air bubbles to rise to the highest point and then escape
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Old 03-15-2011, 12:27 PM   #3
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Thats what I thought too. Suppose if what I did doesnt work I need to put the car up on my ramps and bleed it.
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Old 03-15-2011, 12:41 PM   #4
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yeah man, thats the most efficient way to bleed the system. the KA is such a bitch. or if you have the money you should invest in swirl pot/breather tank.

definately worth the investment. gets rid of a lot of time/hassle.
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Old 03-15-2011, 12:43 PM   #5
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i love those breather tanks from PBM... looks dope and fuctional..
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Old 03-15-2011, 09:33 PM   #6
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I had mine on ramps for 2 days bleeding the system was told when the thermo was in it over heated, come to found out they system was never bleed properly after bleeding it properly its never overheated.
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Old 03-15-2011, 09:56 PM   #7
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just use a really tall funnel and fill it up with coolant over the radiator filler hole and let it idle with the heater on blast... keep adding coolant as it will bleed itself.

it'll take awhile, but i had the same problem when i change thermostat and pump..

but thats all i did..
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Old 03-16-2011, 02:05 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotboiblaze View Post
yeah man, thats the most efficient way to bleed the system. the KA is such a bitch. or if you have the money you should invest in swirl pot/breather tank.

definately worth the investment. gets rid of a lot of time/hassle.
Thanks for the responses. I had considered getting one of these PBM swirl tanks in the past, I think I will now. With one of these tanks, do they eliminate the need to ever have to bleed the system?
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Old 03-16-2011, 06:18 AM   #9
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park on hill, remove rad cap, start car, heater on blast, remove bleeder screw, and watch the bubbles come out from the bleeder screw, shake car, once you see coolant leak out and no bubbles....

close bleeder, turn off car, refill rad, and close rad. this is how ive been doing it. every now and then ill bleed it over again.
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Old 03-16-2011, 08:32 AM   #10
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Didnt even have to do anything else, issue is resolved.
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Old 03-16-2011, 09:50 AM   #11
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what was the problem?
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Old 03-16-2011, 10:00 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spring Break '92 View Post
Thanks for the responses. I had considered getting one of these PBM swirl tanks in the past, I think I will now. With one of these tanks, do they eliminate the need to ever have to bleed the system?
im glad your issue is resolved, tell us what was the matter.
but to anwer your question, yes the swirl pot pretty much constantly bleeds your system when your car is running. even though your issue is resolved i still recommend one for future issues ie replacing water pump, rad hose(s), general cavitation, etc
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Old 03-16-2011, 03:02 PM   #13
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Looks like the system just needed to burp thats all. Definitely going to install a swirl tank when I replace my hoses soon.
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