diacris

Ok I got all of the above problems sorted out. The car ran great for about 20 miles. Then all of a sudden, when I pushed the clutch in, the engine died. And when I try to crank it, it spins and spins as if the coil wire were unplugged.
Indicating little to no spark. I pulled a plug wire and let it ground to the body as the starter was spinning and the spark was almost not even there. When I pull the coil wire and let it ground, it has a good strong spark. I have replaced the rotor in the distributor, but not the cap. I'll be picking up a new cap later tonight. Even with the new rotor, still won't start. And I know it's not because I need "10mm wires bro", it ran with the 7mm's just fine.
FEEDBACK PLEASE.

ALSO: It idles at 2000rpm, I have tightened the IACV screw as much as possible and it still wont go down. I have also vacuum gauge tested it. No vacuum leaks. And the ignition timing is retarded 15 degrees from stock. It's at 5 BTDC.

iveexcaped3

have you done a compression test on all your cylinders?

diacris

I'm about to go do that. If I can find my compression tester. I may have a leakdown tester instead.

The car died while I was driving, I pushed the clutch in and it died. When I pulled over and tried to crank it, it spun as if someone had just pulled out the plugwires; ie: no combustion. Since then, I've taken it home and tested the coil, wires, plugs, etc. Just tried to fire it up and it didn't start. I pulled out a plugwire and it would arc to any ground near it. But for some reason its not igniting the fuel during ignition? I'm not even getting a pop or puff, none of the cylinders are combusting. I picked up a new rotor and still no start. The plugs are wet with gas, so it's not that. I DID NOTICE that when I backed it out and started driving it this morning (when it died), it was very hesitant below 2800rpm. Then a little ways down the road I pushed the clutch to let it cruise to a stop and it died. It has also had a problem with idling way too high since the motor was rebuilt saturday. If I start it and let it idle, it will sit between 1100 and 1700. But if I apply the gas at all, it will spike up to 2000 and stay there then every now and then it will spike up to 2500, then go back down to 2000. Ive adjusted the idle air screw, but to no avail.

diacris

0 psi on all cylinders. Concluded that all 8 of the intake valves are stuck open due to a broken timing chain, or something else of the sort.

iveexcaped3

if its 0psi on a compression test i doubt its ALL your intake valves. if you have the cylinder leak down tester do that. make sure your doing these test correctly or its gonna change all directions of what your looking at.

rwtf

maybe your rings failed? :S

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diacris

I think its something to do with the intake cam. If I try to start the car and press the throttle at the same time, I can hear a "glug glug" from the intake tube. Makes me think that the valves are open and thats why there is zero compression and why you can hear the air being compressed through the intake

pacotaco345

Did you tighten your cam bolts down? I remember when I rebuilt my KA last winter and forgot to do that, dropped the #4 intake valves, stripped the hole in the cam gear, punched my headliner... Yeaaa never making that mistake again.

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iveexcaped3

the thing is it wouldnt just be all intakes.... so you might want to retry that compression test..... if you read 0 again on all of them do a cylinder leak down test from there that will tell you exactly what got fu**ed up and where to start working

GroundPerformance

Sounds to me that timing components got loose or not installed properly. You could have bent the valves in the process which is why you have zero compression.

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GroundPerformance

I've done High-Comp KA NA build and they're very nice and torque is crazy. In cali were SR cars are always on the lookout for cops. Having a OE setup with some power is not bad thing. The bad part is fuel.. If the best you can do is 91-93 its still doable with really realy good tuning but timing would really be on the conservative side. We use E85 and SR 370cc injectors on the motor with no issues and can add more timing with no knocking what so ever. MPG does suck and being constrained to E85 station is the main issue...

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diacris

UPDATE: The car has been running fine for a few weeks now, it ended up being that the dowel-pin wiggled out of the camshaft. Hitting 245 psi on cylinder pressure, runs fine on 93 pump gas. I've pulled up to 6k so far with no audible pinging whatsoever. Extremely hesitant until 3600, getting Knock Sensor code. I replaced my knock sensor with a 1 mega ohm resistor. Will be changing it to a 560k soon. Pulls absolutely great from 4k to infinity and beyond, but before 4k it's shit. Takes the bitch 5 minutes to warm up and run correctly. When I start it cold and press the gas it likes to stall out. Or it will just take 1 - 3 seconds to recognize that I've pressed the gas. Idles at 950. Took it out sliding earlier since it's been raining. Has a shit-ton of torque btw

diacris

UPDATE: The car ran good for about a month. Pretty sure I developed a vacuum leak somewhere, and it runs like shit. Got a tuned ecu from e-mance, also shit. Told me that it would run at 20 btdc, which is ludicrous given that i hit 250 on cylinder pressure. It pinged from idle all the way to 5k when I installed it. (I dont bring it over 5k, or I try not to). Tried backing it off to 15 btdc, still pings like mothafluther. Then, I tried 5 btdc. Hardly any power, but no detonation. So tomorrow (Sunday), I'll be plugging my stock ecu back in and I'll mess with the timing some more. Whenever I undo a certain vacuum hose going to an egr valve I get 14 psi vacuum, I hook it back it up and it drops to 5 psi. But anyway, having a very hard time locating the vacuum leak. To be completely honest I'm probably going to pull the motor and swap back in standard compression pistons. This high compression is a load of unnecessary bs. I've also had problems with my 248 intake cam jumping time a lot. I installed brand new timing kit, chain, guides, tensioner, etc, etc. Any ideas? Stock intake cam gives me 200 cylinder pressure, 248 gives me 250. If when I swap stock intake cam back in, and adjust the timing, if I don't get pinging. I'll keep the setup. But until then, it's just overwhelming and frustrating.
On a side note my friend bought a 240 today, he set the timing to 23 btdc and ran 93 octane. Couple hours later, ROD KNOCK. He was dogging the shit out of it. But is it possible that the advanced timing could have attributed to the knock? Or is it just that he revs the shit out of it and ended up oil starving the bearing? He has a stock rebuilt ka, .5mm overbore, cometic hg, stock everything else.
Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

rcdad123

wow, sorry about your bad experience. but if you decide to keep it with the hi comp and hi duration cams, get a tunable ecu that is tuned on the dyno in your car. there really is no substitute for a tunable ecu with an experienced tuner. i think with the right ecu and tune, you will have a very responsive engine.