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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series. |
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11-20-2012, 09:34 PM | #1 |
Leaky Injector
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High Compression KA Question
I'm in the process of building a high-compression KA24DE.
KA24DE block bored .5mm over. Dual 248 cams. SOHC Flat-Top Pistons .5mm Over. Decked Block. Stock Head Components. I calculated that the compression is going to be around 11.4:1. With this amount of compression, what should I be running for Ignition Timing? I'm under the impression that you Retard the timing when you raise compression / turbo / supercharge, etc. Stock timing is 20 BTDC. I figured I'd retard it to 16 BTDC to keep from detonating. What are your thoughts on this? Has anyone had experience with this? |
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11-21-2012, 09:30 AM | #4 |
Leaky Injector
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Well, I plan on buying NisTune. But since it costs almost $500, I'm gonna have to wait until early January to have the cash. I'm just asking what ignition timing I should run until I get the ecu tuned. I just dont want it to detonate and ping. I'm aware that it wont make full power, I'm just looking for a safe amount of timing to run temporarily.
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11-21-2012, 09:36 AM | #5 |
Nissanaholic!
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who ever is doing your tune should be educated to the point of where the timing should be let alone you better not be running low octane in the ka or you guys will never get the timing right cause it would be running like absolute dump and missing like a mother snuffer
but i have seen dyno techs not know a damn thing(besides how to strap it down and hit the gas)... |
11-21-2012, 09:44 AM | #6 |
Leaky Injector
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Well, the guy who is helping me build my engine keeps telling me that I need to advance my timing. But I know for a fact that when you raise compression you're supposed to retard the timing. But he's steadfast in thinking that it needs to be advanced and I dont want to fuck up my engine. And we will be running 93 in it.
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11-21-2012, 09:50 AM | #7 |
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I would recommend as little basetiming as possible to get it to run then, but then again too little timing gets things a little hot too.
Your kinda in one of those pickles where no advice is good advice until tuned. Advancing it is a no no, at least blindly. I know I have seen ka's with stock compression with correct basetiming knock on 87 and 93 is recommended in them anyways so even with 93 your going to be pusing it even with reducing base timing. |
11-21-2012, 09:52 AM | #8 |
Nissanaholic!
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Yea 93 is fine but to get the most out of the high comp gotta run 100+ or e85 for that matter
Id say ask a race guru that has been down that route there's gotta be a thread in this forum of a high comp build somewhere and octane rating on e85 is up there but takes more e85 to run in the cylinder then regular fuel If I was you I would get a second opinion a.s.a.p some people know how to build motors but when it comes to race timing when the cars running people can be dumb and fuck a 3k ka motor |
11-21-2012, 10:01 AM | #9 |
Leaky Injector
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Ive searched through a billion high comp ka threads but none of them are builds, they're all question threads. And if theyre builds they mention nothing about timing.
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11-21-2012, 10:08 AM | #12 |
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the problem is that if you have a high compression KA with out a tune you need to retard timing a lot just to be safe,and will be slower than a stock KA,i've build one with the same set up you posted, p.m. me for more info
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12-02-2012, 03:28 PM | #14 |
Leaky Injector
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Got the motor to start. Used the exact mods listed in the first post. The engine will run, but only if you hold the throttle open manually. It won't idle. When we pulled the sparkplugs, 3 were black, and the first cylinder's was white. The first cylinder also had the most compression when we compression tested it. 250 psi. the rest were around 240 and they fire just fine on 93 octane. the plugs are also gapped to 35. Is it blowing out the spark in the first cylinder? I need to get it running soon, but I dont have money for an ecu until late december.
The only things that have changed with my motor are sohc pistons, and dual 248 cams. What's causing it to run bad? |
12-02-2012, 06:35 PM | #15 | |
It's Always Broken.
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Gap your plugs tighter maybe? Try 0.28" or something.
Possibly your cylinder 1 injector isn't flowing as well as the other 3. Either way your other 3 plugs are rich and first is lean. Also you need a tune
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12-04-2012, 08:01 PM | #16 |
Zilvia Addict
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what the issue is your on zilvia about built ka's..... this would be your best bet
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12-05-2012, 11:53 AM | #17 |
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I am not against any experience of engine building...
However, this has got to be the most silly thing I have ever come across. The KA is not a HONDA engine. It should not be high compression and it should not spin 9000rpm. If anything, it should be turbo, 8:1 compression with a 6k redline. Anything more than that is asking for serious $$$ to be invested. For under $2k these days you can strap a 250 horsepower redtop into a 240sx. Now tell me, why would you invest even 1 penny into a 130 horsepower KA engine? Even if you spray a 100 shot of nitrous it still doesn't make any sense, unless you are going to drive around without a hood (so everybody can see the OEM KA engine) and have the nitrous plumbing under the intake (so nobody can see it) THAT is surprise factor. not to mention high compression engines are hard on the starter. And furthermore, I still feel (IMHO) that an OEM redtop, with OEM sidemount, and OEM exhaust, KEEP the hood on the car, and people think its an OEM KA engine... Yet the car has 200+ horsepower. That still beats a "sleeper high compression nitrous KA engine" fwiw |
12-05-2012, 11:59 AM | #18 |
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Oh oh, right, thread op Wants timing numbers.
Well heres what I feel. base timing at idle around 12-13*. Cruising on the highway around 36-37*. Under wide open throttle I would guess about 15-18* and go up from there. Peak WOT will be less than 30* I bet. most ancient chevy engines will tolerate 36* WOT total but that is serious VE deficit. Your KA will have decent VE thanks to it's valvetrain so I feel the final WOT timing will be much less than 30. the way to know for sure is, of course, chassis dyno. Start LOW and work the timing up a few * at a time. When you see that no additional timing is necessary (no significant improvement) lock that spot down a few * retarded from where your peak, because there will always be a bad day, going uphill, with bad gas |
12-06-2012, 09:29 AM | #19 | |
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12-06-2012, 09:40 AM | #20 | |
Zilvia Addict
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12-06-2012, 02:47 PM | #21 | |
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12-08-2012, 01:05 PM | #23 | |
Post Whore!
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#2 See those power numbers? they dont matter. Nothing under 200WHP matters, nor is anything under 200WHP considered performance. You cant trap 110mph with 130, 140, or 155 horsepower in a 3000lb vehicle. #3 It costs more than $80 to install a set of pistons into an engine. In fact, just opening the engine up entails a long list of risks and possible problems forthcoming. $80 says a modified high compression KA goes fewer miles than a bone stock OEM redtop engine thats been used for 80k already. |
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12-08-2012, 04:27 PM | #24 | |
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Quote:
2. Its a good way to sneak some power in for auto x or drifting on a budget. Everything isnt always about trap speeds. 3. Yea, it will cost more than $80 unless you already have some stuff laying around. But you have little to no faith in anyone building a nissan engine. |
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12-08-2012, 06:56 PM | #25 | |
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12-08-2012, 09:15 PM | #26 |
Leaky Injector
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Got it running a few hours ago, drove it home from my buddy's shop and it felt very weak. So when I got home and pulled sparkplug wires 2 and 3, and it idled exactly the same. I has a smooth idle, but its not even running cylinders 2 and 3. They are sparking, but there is no combustion in those cylinders. any pointers? I'm about to go check the injectors, but tell me what you guys think.
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12-08-2012, 09:42 PM | #28 |
Leaky Injector
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Cylinder 3's sparkplug was "dark/maybe black". This is one of the cylinders that is not combusting.
Cylinder 4's sparkplug was "clean" and it is one of the operational and functioning cylinders. |
12-08-2012, 10:19 PM | #29 |
Leaky Injector
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Just cleaned off the dirty sparkplug from cyl 3 and put it in cyl 4.
Put the clean sparkplug from cyl 4 into cyl 3. Made no difference. So even with a clean sparkplug in cyl 3, it still doesnt achieve combustion. |
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