Rico21r

Okay so I've been trying to figure out the issue here.

For some reason if it is cold out I can go in and start up the car with little issue, it only has to crank once before it lights off and it runs fine.

But say I turn it off and try again some time after, well it has to crank at least 5 times, then it runs extremely rough.
It Boggs really bad and it gets no acceleration at all, and it is a strain just for it to get up to 55mph. But eventually for some reason I could be driving and it will just correct itself randomly and drive fine, what is causing this?

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Kaifd3s

Check your crank sensor.

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Rico21r

Well, spent 100 bucks on a new sensor.. Still acts crazy. any other ideas?

Sileighty_85

ECU Coolant Temp Sensor its the two wire sensor next to the Single wire gauge sensor.

Check ECU for codes to confirm

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後輪駆動車１番
1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp
1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now)
1986 SR86 - 200ish
1990 R32 GTR - 320hp
Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html
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Han

second that ^ check with a multimeter to confirm. should be around 2k ohms when cold and down to about .3-.5k ohms when warmed up. i just read up on the cts a couple hours ago. save yourself from wasting any more $

Rico21r

Okay I'll check it out.hmm

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240boi115

Is it an auto or manual?

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Rico21r

Manual

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future

If a CTS doesn't work I'd check the fuel pump. They can over heat once warmed up and give problems

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Rico21r

Well if this is what you guys are referring to then I'm about to go pick one up in a minute! hopefully it works!
Duralast/Coolant Temperature Sensor (SU405) | 1990 Nissan/Datsun 240SX 4 Cylinders H 2.4L FI | AutoZone.com

kruked

I say to swap w/ another ECU from a car that hasn't been ragged to death. I had a similar problem. I diagnosed EVERYTHING, ECU was the culprit.

I wouldn't necessarily buy one. See if you can't borrow a buddies.

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2014 Triumph Street Triple

Rico21r

Well the CTS was a little bit corroded, I'm sure it was probably 23 years old.
But it didnt fix a thing. It still gets crazy shaking and bogging and occasionally runs really rich.
also some times the idle will be at like 1800, some times it will be at 7-800.
also Some times my brake and check engine light will be on, some times it wont.
also some times, for some reason, I get smoke that comes in through where my radio goes...

I JUST DON'T KNOW ANYMORE.

fliprayzin240sx

Well have you done the usual stuff? Check plugs/gap, base timing, CAS timing, cleaned MAF, adjusted TPS?

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Sileighty_85

Check alternator voltage output and disconnect the O2 and see if that helps idle

__________________
後輪駆動車１番
1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp
1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now)
1986 SR86 - 200ish
1990 R32 GTR - 320hp
Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html
Don't Buy XS-Power or SSAC Shit

Rico21r

Alright, so I went to visit my sister today, about a 30 minute drive, and the car was driving like complete crap, usually it would correct itself but this time it didn't.
So on the way back, still driving like shit, it started to lose power while going like 60, I look down and it's just about to over heat so I pull to the shoulder of the highway.
Now I'm on the high way right now and this stupid thing won't start.
It will crank and crank, just won't light off.
Do you guys think it was probably the fuel pump?
I got it to start for a minute and there was some pinging in the engine so I shut it off and now it won't come back. o.o.
Any ideas? There's no leaks or anything.

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Sileighty_85

Well the stock temp gauge is garbage so there might be a chance that it has overheated and warped the head causing the head gasket to pop. Check your oil and see if it looks like chocolate milk and check coolant level.

__________________
後輪駆動車１番
1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp
1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now)
1986 SR86 - 200ish
1990 R32 GTR - 320hp
Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html
Don't Buy XS-Power or SSAC Shit

kruked

Why didn't you do as post #9 suggested when he suggested it on the 24th?

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2014 Triumph Street Triple

dallasb53

because its easier to just ask questions, get answers and never act on it.

thats my guess, anyways.

mechanicalmoron

You may have a lower injector o-ring that heats up, and allows it to flood around it.

Running rich and REALLY rough? Like, not just rough, but has a miss? Pull the plug wires until you find the miss, get a set of injector o-rings and some vaseline to lube the new one to put it in, or it will tear, and fix it. (the ecu may already have an injector or misfire code, did you check? it can tell you the cylinder)

Or, an injector stuck, open or closed, or one that sticks both.

And yeah, it can be really hard to start with a bad injector, and can be really damaging to run on it. Don't be a fucktard, it obviously shouldn't be driven so it hopefully just fixes itself, ruining itself is a lot more likely.

Rico21r

The engine light went out until the last incident where it died on the road,
But how would I pull the plug wires to troubleshoot it when it won't even fire up anymore?

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future

At this point it sounds like you blew the head

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kruked

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I like my bikes how I like my b¡tches...naked!
2014 Triumph Street Triple

mechanicalmoron

Well they do go bad, and they can stick open. That makes sense with his rich setting.

They're just on que to go at this age, and they do. The o-ring problem is usually actually a consequence of someone changing a bad injector out, but not lubing the new o-ring, so it tears. but they can also just get old and leak, maybe a bad one got in from the factory that failed faster, etc.

But yeah, it's not the head gasket....

You can check the codes without it turning on, like I told you to.... the only tool you need is a few screwdrivers and maybe a little socket or something to get the ecu out. (then if you want to make it easier in the future, drill a hole in the top face of your ecu, and mount the screw there, so you can use it without removing the whole damn ecu)

You should listen to see if your fuel pump primes, and especially if you can't hear it, get a pressure gauge, a little cheap-o inline diagnostic one. Splice it in by the fuel filter, turn the key to on, and see, you should have 44 psi. Once it's running, it should drop to 34 or something, as the pressure regulator is vaccum operated.

*edit* if you think it's a spark issue, have someone turn it over while you pull a plug boot - it should arc if you hold it near the head, like a quarter inch away, every time that cylinder should be firing. If it's not, inspect the cap/rotor, and make sure the coil is sparking.

If you do have spark, have someone else turn it over, while you listen to the injectors, to make sure they're firing - you can also put a finger on them and feel the click, or put a screwdriver on them and listen to the handle.

Rico21r

So if that's the case, I'll have to completely change out my head? I'm going to have to open it up to be sure, right?

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fliprayzin240sx

Start atleast a compression test but better with a leak down test.

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Rico21r

I was actually going to replace the fuel pump today, did you not see the post I put when I said I was broken down? It wasn't me who the out the other suggestions

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Rico21r

I just ran the ecu and its showing 11 I think. I don't know though because it's such a long pause between the 1 flashes

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fliprayzin240sx

1 long blink and 1 short flash, then starts over again?

11 says its Camshaft Position Sensor...I'm not even sure if that means a bad CAS since thats the only thing in my head that reads your cams.

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Rico21r

No, 1 long flash over and over again

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fliprayzin240sx

Tried clearing it to see if it comes back? I've never heard of a single digit ECU code for nissan.

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