Runs great cold, but Boggs and acts crazy when warmed up?
 

Okay so I've been trying to figure out the issue here.

For some reason if it is cold out I can go in and start up the car with little issue, it only has to crank once before it lights off and it runs fine.

But say I turn it off and try again some time after, well it has to crank at least 5 times, then it runs extremely rough.
It Boggs really bad and it gets no acceleration at all, and it is a strain just for it to get up to 55mph. But eventually for some reason I could be driving and it will just correct itself randomly and drive fine, what is causing this?

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Check your crank sensor.

Well, spent 100 bucks on a new sensor.. Still acts crazy. any other ideas?

ECU Coolant Temp Sensor its the two wire sensor next to the Single wire gauge sensor.

Check ECU for codes to confirm

second that ^ check with a multimeter to confirm. should be around 2k ohms when cold and down to about .3-.5k ohms when warmed up. i just read up on the cts a couple hours ago. save yourself from wasting any more $

Okay I'll check it out.hmm

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Is it an auto or manual?

Manual

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If a CTS doesn't work I'd check the fuel pump. They can over heat once warmed up and give problems

Well if this is what you guys are referring to then I'm about to go pick one up in a minute! hopefully it works!
Duralast/Coolant Temperature Sensor (SU405) | 1990 Nissan/Datsun 240SX 4 Cylinders H 2.4L FI | AutoZone.com

I say to swap w/ another ECU from a car that hasn't been ragged to death. I had a similar problem. I diagnosed EVERYTHING, ECU was the culprit.

I wouldn't necessarily buy one. See if you can't borrow a buddies.

Well the CTS was a little bit corroded, I'm sure it was probably 23 years old.
But it didnt fix a thing. It still gets crazy shaking and bogging and occasionally runs really rich.
also some times the idle will be at like 1800, some times it will be at 7-800.
also Some times my brake and check engine light will be on, some times it wont.
also some times, for some reason, I get smoke that comes in through where my radio goes...

I JUST DON'T KNOW ANYMORE.

Well have you done the usual stuff? Check plugs/gap, base timing, CAS timing, cleaned MAF, adjusted TPS?

Check alternator voltage output and disconnect the O2 and see if that helps idle

Alright, so I went to visit my sister today, about a 30 minute drive, and the car was driving like complete crap, usually it would correct itself but this time it didn't.
So on the way back, still driving like shit, it started to lose power while going like 60, I look down and it's just about to over heat so I pull to the shoulder of the highway.
Now I'm on the high way right now and this stupid thing won't start.
It will crank and crank, just won't light off.
Do you guys think it was probably the fuel pump?
I got it to start for a minute and there was some pinging in the engine so I shut it off and now it won't come back. o.o.
Any ideas? There's no leaks or anything.

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Well the stock temp gauge is garbage so there might be a chance that it has overheated and warped the head causing the head gasket to pop. Check your oil and see if it looks like chocolate milk and check coolant level.

Why didn't you do as post #9 suggested when he suggested it on the 24th?

You may have a lower injector o-ring that heats up, and allows it to flood around it.

Running rich and REALLY rough? Like, not just rough, but has a miss? Pull the plug wires until you find the miss, get a set of injector o-rings and some vaseline to lube the new one to put it in, or it will tear, and fix it. (the ecu may already have an injector or misfire code, did you check? it can tell you the cylinder)

Or, an injector stuck, open or closed, or one that sticks both.

And yeah, it can be really hard to start with a bad injector, and can be really damaging to run on it. Don't be a fucktard, it obviously shouldn't be driven so it hopefully just fixes itself, ruining itself is a lot more likely.

The engine light went out until the last incident where it died on the road,
But how would I pull the plug wires to troubleshoot it when it won't even fire up anymore?

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At this point it sounds like you blew the head

So if that's the case, I'll have to completely change out my head? I'm going to have to open it up to be sure, right?

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Start atleast a compression test but better with a leak down test.

I was actually going to replace the fuel pump today, did you not see the post I put when I said I was broken down? It wasn't me who the out the other suggestions

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I just ran the ecu and its showing 11 I think. I don't know though because it's such a long pause between the 1 flashes

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1 long blink and 1 short flash, then starts over again?

11 says its Camshaft Position Sensor...I'm not even sure if that means a bad CAS since thats the only thing in my head that reads your cams.

No, 1 long flash over and over again

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Tried clearing it to see if it comes back? I've never heard of a single digit ECU code for nissan.

No I haven't, I'll do that now

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Just realized something...I never asked what engine, I've been assuming SR20 this whole time.