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Old 06-23-2007, 11:36 AM   #1
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s13 Front mount Intercooler install advice

Hey I am about to tacke the job of installing the front mount intercooler and was wondering if there was anyway around doing a battery relocation? I drive a 1991 180sx and it cam with a small japanese battery, so there is room for me to trim the battery tray but will there be enough room? Should the pipping go on the outside of the frame or the inside?
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Old 06-23-2007, 11:39 AM   #2
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You can use a smaller battery, and avoid relocating it to the trunk. However, relocating it is VERY easy, you can do it in less then a couple hours once you have the few things you need.
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Old 06-23-2007, 11:47 AM   #3
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reloacting it is not hard at all. but if you dont want to spend money on it just use your small battery and tricm out the battery tray. its not that hard to install taken the bumper support off make be harder than installing he fmic. GL on it tho.
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Old 06-24-2007, 02:54 PM   #4
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ok I have one last question, when installing the intercooler I noticed that off the side mount intercooler there was a hose that ran to the intake. is that hose needed with the front mount intercooler? If not what should be done with it?
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Old 06-24-2007, 06:20 PM   #5
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that is the like for the stock recirc hose. if you dont plan on recirculating your bov just plug it up. i used one of theese little rubber plugs i picked up from a hardware store with a hoseclamp around it.
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Old 06-25-2007, 02:18 AM   #6
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Cool thanks for the advice, is there any down fall to not recirculating to the B.O.V? Also, I ran in to one last problem, I am not entirely sure what to do with the two small hoses. The first one being the one that plugs into the piping that runs out of the throtle and across the fan shrouding. And the second being the one that plugs into the factory side mount intercooler. There does not seem to be a place for these two small hoses either on my front mount. Anyway, I appreciate all the help and I have been all over the internet looking for instructions as I don't have any. I have found alot of good stuff out there but it lacks specifics. Just want to be sure I do things right the first time. thanks
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Old 06-25-2007, 11:47 AM   #7
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my battery relocation cost me less than 50 bucks. go to tractor supply and get welding leads, cut to length. low gauge and highly insulated, put my behind the passenger seat.
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Old 06-25-2007, 01:06 PM   #8
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Cool thanks for the advice, is there any down fall to not recirculating to the B.O.V? Also, I ran in to one last problem, I am not entirely sure what to do with the two small hoses. The first one being the one that plugs into the piping that runs out of the throtle and across the fan shrouding. And the second being the one that plugs into the factory side mount intercooler. There does not seem to be a place for these two small hoses either on my front mount. Anyway, I appreciate all the help and I have been all over the internet looking for instructions as I don't have any. I have found alot of good stuff out there but it lacks specifics. Just want to be sure I do things right the first time. thanks
If you don't recirc the BOV you'll tend to have stalling problems due to running rich. As far as vac lines to the IC piping, all you really need is the line for the IACV on the coldpipe, the vac line to the BOV, and a line going to your boost control solenoid for your boost controller, and from there to your wastegate/actuator. Hope that helps/makes sense.
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Old 06-25-2007, 05:22 PM   #9
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i have a tial and it cannot be recirculated. and i have no stalling problems.
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Old 06-25-2007, 07:13 PM   #10
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how would i go about re-circulating my B.O.V? keeping in mind there is no place for me to plug that hose into.
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Old 06-25-2007, 11:22 PM   #11
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most bov's have recirc fittings. the one for an hks is 15 bucks so they are relatively cheap. check ebay.
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Old 06-26-2007, 01:44 AM   #12
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Ah i think I get it, you are saying to take the device that resembles a small megaphone off my blow off valve and replace it with a fitting that will tie back in to the stock recirc pipe. Is that right or am I way off base? If I do choose to recirc how do you adive running that pipe back into the blow off valve? I only ask because it seems the position of the pipe and the blow off valve would make it awkward to connect...on my set up at least. And just to clarify eventhough my set up has always been atmospheric blow off, the car stands to run differntly because that one pipe will be plugged? Anyway, I am sure walking me through all of this is getting frustrating but I do appreciate all your help.
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Old 06-26-2007, 02:27 AM   #13
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yeah i was a little unclear on that. im not familiar with your bov but on my hks the fins inside the opening are removed and adapter is put in place. so instead of fins you have a port to stick a 1" hose onto. just search for a fitting.
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Old 06-26-2007, 11:45 AM   #14
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Ah i think I get it, you are saying to take the device that resembles a small megaphone off my blow off valve and replace it with a fitting that will tie back in to the stock recirc pipe. Is that right or am I way off base? If I do choose to recirc how do you adive running that pipe back into the blow off valve? I only ask because it seems the position of the pipe and the blow off valve would make it awkward to connect...on my set up at least. And just to clarify eventhough my set up has always been atmospheric blow off, the car stands to run differntly because that one pipe will be plugged? Anyway, I am sure walking me through all of this is getting frustrating but I do appreciate all your help.
From what you're saying, It sounds like you are using a Blitz BOV?? If so, there is no recirc fitting for it. What you can do though is buy a second flange for it, and use that. It will bolt onto the flange for the horn perfectly, and then connect a hose to that and run it back into the IC piping to recirc the air from the BOV.

Also, with an atmospheric BOV, the car doesn't stand to run differently because that "one pipe will be plugged". What happens is everytime your BOV opens, it lets out air that has been metered by the MAFS, this causes your ECU to send to much fuel, and causes a momentary situation for your engine to run rich, which can cause you to stall. The ways to fix this are re-locating the MAFS to behind the BOV and closer to the TB. Or a S-AFC or EMS. Recirculating it is the cheapest and easiest obviously.
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Old 06-26-2007, 12:01 PM   #15
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Hey I am about to tacke the job of installing the front mount intercooler and was wondering if there was anyway around doing a battery relocation? I drive a 1991 180sx and it cam with a small japanese battery, so there is room for me to trim the battery tray but will there be enough room? Should the pipping go on the outside of the frame or the inside?
go with a braile auto racing battery bout the same as an optima battery but only weighs 11.5lbs and is the size of an motorcycle battery got one on my s14.5 works great even with a system in it!!
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Old 06-26-2007, 10:38 PM   #16
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cant forgit dat systum man..
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Old 06-26-2007, 11:46 PM   #17
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You are right, I do have a Blitz blow off valve, I am impressed that you knew that from my lame discription. Now, where might i find one of these flanges, and if possible can i see a pic.... that way i know what I am buying. If you can't find one that is cool. Thanks a million for all the advice.
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Old 06-27-2007, 01:44 AM   #18
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http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=27596

That thread has all you need for your Blitz BOV recirc... pics included, just click on the links at the bottom of each post/step.

I forgot to mention before, if you have the stock rubber SR intake tube, there is a fitting you can use to connect for a recirc line on it right behind the MAFS. There's a pic of it in the writeup above.
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Old 06-28-2007, 01:46 AM   #19
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So I went ahead and relocated my battery to the trunk. However, it is not a dry cell battery. So does it emmit any type of gas? I just bought one of those marine boxes, does this need to be vented and if so how?
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Old 06-28-2007, 01:54 AM   #20
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my battery relocation kit costed me around $350 all together, but thats with a new optima battery and full stinger 1 gauge wire kit
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Old 06-28-2007, 09:37 AM   #21
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put my behind the passenger seat.
That is highly illegal! You will never be able to race on any track with a battery in your cabin like that.
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Old 06-28-2007, 09:41 AM   #22
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go with a braile auto racing battery bout the same as an optima battery but only weighs 11.5lbs and is the size of an motorcycle battery got one on my s14.5 works great even with a system in it!!

Those Braile batteries are total junk. This is pretty common knowledge on the forums I frequent. They last less then a year even with good 16v trickle charge.
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Old 06-28-2007, 10:56 AM   #23
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Those Braile batteries are total junk. This is pretty common knowledge on the forums I frequent. They last less then a year even with good 16v trickle charge.
i've had mine for quite some time and its taken some serious abuse still does me good every day drivin and track use
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Old 06-28-2007, 11:04 AM   #24
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my battery relocation cost me less than 50 bucks. go to tractor supply and get welding leads, cut to length. low gauge and highly insulated, put my behind the passenger seat.
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That is highly illegal! You will never be able to race on any track with a battery in your cabin like that.
I've never seen a car with the battery IN the cabin (like behind the passenger seat) but wouldn't a trunk relocation on a hatch, or coupe with the rear seat removed, be essentially the same thing? There is still no physical barrier between you and the battery... just space.

To the OP: Yes, it's a good idea to vent the box somehow.

IMHO the best thing to do for a battery relocation is to use a sealed battery (like an optima). That way you don't need a box. For my relocation I bought an optima redtop battery, 0 gauge cable, 4 gauge cable (for grounds) and a piece of sheet metal. I made the sheet metal into a tray, and carefully drilled 4 holes and attached it into the trunk with 4 bolts, and then used the stock battery tie down to hold the battery in the tray. Total it only cost me about $250, and my battery is SOLID in my trunk; not even a hint of movement, and it's super easy to change and/or disconnect.
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Old 06-28-2007, 11:28 AM   #25
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now when we say vent to we mean the box itself or outside the car?
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Old 06-28-2007, 12:15 PM   #26
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That is highly illegal! You will never be able to race on any track with a battery in your cabin like that.
who the hell do you figure? if i had my batter in my trunk, it would have the same exposure to me. the only reason its where it is, is because i didnt buy enough lead. k? just as illegal as it being in the "trunk". in this case my stripped out soon to be caged hatch. good day.
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Old 06-28-2007, 12:29 PM   #27
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Oh, and another quick question, I have been looking at the DIY battery relocation thread and I was wondering if I have to run to wire to the altenator, starter, or acc line. I only ask because my wires look nothing like his. Is it fair to say that i only need to take what was attached to the old battery and run that into a circut breaker? Or is there some crazy things that I don't know about?
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