Jumpman31

First off, let me say that I did search...I looked through all 12 pages and couldn't really find what I was looking for. If there is some keyword that will get me to the right place, please let me know. I have a 93 s13 SE.

Long version: I have the same problem everyone else with the hatch has, the rust magnet Nissan dared to call a spoiler. I've removed it, and after weighing my options, I've decided to replace the original hatch with another from my local junkyard. The general consensus about rewiring the replacement hatch seems to be to cut and solder all wires, but I would rather keep all the wires intact. Has anyone noticed a shortcut to rewire the replacement hatch? It seems like there would be a connector somewhere along that long wire route. If not, what are the best ways to go about it? Also, the replacement hatch has rust issues as well- not half as bad as my current hatch, but still there nonetheless. Suggestions on how to repair it would be appreciated.

Short version: My hatch is rusted. I'm replacing it with a junkyard hatch and am looking for a shortcut around the wiring. Suggestions? Also, what is the best way to plug the common rust holes? Thanks guys.

Jumpman31

Bump, please help if you can guys.

Jtuned_andy

There really is no reason not to cut and solder as long as everything matches up. I dont have a hatch, but get the new hatch and compare wire colors and cut/solder one at a time. The way you want to go could require frustrated fishing of the harness through the hatch piece.

Rust? Cut it out and weld in new metal, there are no other correct ways.

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Jumpman31

Thanks, i got the "new" hatch today . The wires were easily done as you said, I just removed a couple pieces of interior trim and found the connectors. For some reason I thought that the wire that's actually for the antenna was connected to the hatch ...don't ask.

Although...while there, the guy that owns the place told me of course not to use bondo, but suggested I try a product called Mar Glass by 3M before going to welding. He worked in a body shop for the better part of his life and thought that it might work. And be alot easier, and permanent. Thoughts?

theboy

Mar Glass is a band-aid for what your trying to do. Stuff works great for fixing fiberglass parts but if your trying to use it to fix hatch holes then your wasting your time. It doesnt stick to metal very well, especially if its on a part that can twist or is moved a lot. Do it rite, and just weld in new metal/the holes shut. Then go through and grind everything smooth and what ever is left use a little bondo to make it perfect.

Mar Glass is bondo with short strand fiberglass in it. Awesome for fiberglass repairs only.

s73

I am in the same boat as you with the hatch wiring thing. I am pretty sure you ran into my post while searching for this topic.

My "junk yard" hatch has totally hacked-up wires with major missing pieces. I have two options now...1) re-use the hatch harness from my car 2) fix the bits and pieces of the hatch harness that i fished out of the junk yard hatch.

So how did you do it? cut and cut and solder? Could you give me more details about the locations of the factory connectors, and any hints on removing the interior trims? (you know how old our cars are...things likes to break if you are not careful) any info on this would be great.

thanks in advance.


PS...
i am also in the same boat when it comes to fixing the rust holes. if you dont have a welder, and dont want to use fiberglass....you can always epoxy (JB Weld) sheet aluminum as a backing and apply filler. (on the bigger holes make sure your sheet aluminum is thick enough) I have done this in the past and it held up very well. I tried this new filler instead of the regular bondo. Its made by bondo, called "plastic metal" From the looks of it i think its bondo+epoxy+metal dust. They sell this at walmart in tubes. (the instructions said, "use stright from tube" and that didnt work too well for me, its way too thick to smoothly apply. So i cut it down with some acetone)

Jumpman31

Actually I got lucky...I thought the wires were shot, but surprisingly everything was still intact. The factory connectors are pretty easy to get to, they're inside the trim right next to the back seat on the driver's side. I'm at work now, but I'll either post some pics when I get home or just find some that do the job on the web. They're pretty easy to disconnect and the whole process of removing the hatch literally took me 5 minutes. I've only removed the trim from the junkyard car (I'm going to fix the holes and primer before I actually mount it), but the thing to remember is not to force it if it's fighting you...find what ever is still connected and get at it first. You will have to remove both pieces of trim on the side of the seats to get to the connectors. The hatch is completely plug and play.

Okay, good idea. I'd really like to fix them myself if I could, but I didn't want to bondo it and have to fix it every couple months or so. Where did you get your sheet aluminum and JB Weld from?

s73

If you can post pics it would be great, right now i am doing the same thing as you...repairing the hatch before i install it on my car.

JB Weld could be found almost everywhere (Walmart, home depot, any autoparts store...its just a two part epoxy...two tubes of mini toothpaste looking thing...mix and use)

I got the sheet aluminum from home depot (i am pretty sure it could be found in almost every hardware store) I picked aluminum due to the fact that its easy to bend, light and it does not rust.

One of my rust holes was actually pretty big...every hatch owner knows this one....the passenger side, right next to the third brake light area. After i cut out the rust it left a huge hole that i could put my fist in. I took a piece of sheet aluminum and bent it to the contour of the hole, cut the aluminum as big as i can fit in the back...more surface area for the "glue" to hold on to. For the bigger holes i used a thicker piece of aluminum so it does not flex, and for the smaller spoiler bolt holes i just use the thinner stuff. Try to keep the sheet aluminum as close to the body as you can, so you dont have to use as much body filler. (thicker the filler = more likely to crack).

I think the most important thing about epoxy is the prep work. I sanded everything down with coarse sandpaper (the sheet aluminum and the area where it sticks to) and cleaned it with acetone to make sure its free from dust and oils. If its done right, epoxy can be very strong.

Jumpman31

Ok, I will post pics of the car asap...I'm at work- again haha.

What is the location of the aluminum? Did you cover the inside of the hatch and then just epoxy and body filler over it, or did you put it on top of the hatch and put epoxy and filler around it?

s73

The aluminum on the INSIDE of the hatch, if you take your time and do it right you shouldnt have to use a lot of body filler. When i did my hatch, i try to keep the filler less than 1mm thick.

hOngsterr

man, theres threads out there about how to rewire your hatch and plug up holes

fucking weld a plate under then over it with bondo, fucking done, make sure you have a clean surface so the bondo has something to grab on and doesnt crack later on, how do i know i did it myself.

edit, i used JBweld on my 16 ga sheetmetal and they popped off when pressure was applied.

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- Hong

s73

Believe me, i dont know about others, but i have been searching and reading a huge number of threads and was not able to get more detailed info on this topic.

Of course it would be best if it is welded, even if its just a few tacks, but not everyone has access to a welder.

I dont know about others, but i had pretty good experiences with JB weld. The key to JB weld is the prep work. It have to be very clean and scuffed up good with some sandpaper. JB weld is not the best way to do it, but it works if its done right.