brucetrann

Hi, my name is Bruce and I just pulled my engine out today.
So far i think its all stock, but i'll find out when i take it about. Its so old, the clutch is all rusted and stuff. Heres some pics !

Water pump side.. or front


Exhaust side


Clutch side.. or back


Intake side


As of now, I just got megan headers. Prob going to get a cometic head gasket. Going to get a valve job and resurfacing on head and block. This is my first time doing this so I need some advice on some builds.. like what pistons, rods, bearings, valves, valve springs, keep stock intake manifold ? what intake should I get ? and how much I should resurface on the head and block. There's just so many things I don't know and I'm looking for help. Thanks !

AS240

do you plan on boosting it or are you going to stay n/a? is it going to be daily'd or track/weekend only

brucetrann

Yeah im going to stay N/a. Prob going to be daily/tracked.
So far im planning to get new cams, 240/232, keeping stock pistons and getting the internals checked to see if theyre still good, getting crank cleaned polished and balanced, resurfacing my heads, cometic h/g, arp headstuds, acl main and rod bearings, 3 angle valve job, supertech valve springs, Throttle body spacer, Organic exedy clutch (idk which stage), Megan headers, test pipe, 3 inch piping all the way, and intake (idk what brand, prob aem ?)

what do you think ???? criticism please !

AS240

if you're keeping it n/a, then the stock internals are just fine. all you need are new rings and bearings. the stock head gasket is more than enough for anything under 400hp. you don't need high end valvetrain, at least not for a stock ka. you don't get enough out of over-reving a ka (power and reliability) to be worth spending the extra investment. im in the process of refreshing my friends ka. it's an original 120k mile motor with new osk timing components, egr deleted, 248/232 cam swap, head studs, intake thermal gasket, spec stage 3 clutch, and ebay header. i HIGHLY recommend getting a osk timing kit. if you go cheap with ka timing parts, you'll be kicking yourself in the ass later. this is all just from my personal experience. this is our 3rd time building a ka. just research as much as you possibly can on all the forums before you start buying parts. you'll save time and money in the end.

got it all back together today
Dean Chinowith's Photos | Facebook

Edwin562

If your planning to stay stock N/A and want more power. do alot of research.

you can start here since your just starting.
(PROOF) That NA KA can make 200CHP on $1000 - S-Chassis.com

GroundPerformance

Run sohc pistons, sr 370cc and e85 and that NA KA will be fun and still look completely OE.

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brucetrann

Alrite guys, I just look up parts to put on the rebuild and found out I won't be able to afford new cams. stage 2 cams are $390 and a tune will be around $200.

So I've just decided to get a 3 angle valve job and resurface the head
cometic headgasket $90
arp studs $100
crank polished and balanced
acl racing main and rod bearings $150

I heard that f1 stage 3 clutch is decent if i put it in right. What do you guys think about that ? $150

@AS240: what do you think ? my build isn't like yours, but I'm on a smaller budget XD

@Edwin562: I already freed up my whole exhaust. Should i still get a tune even though im on stock internals ?

@Groundperformance: I want to stay on pump gas if you know what I mean. Thanks for your option though =)

project-D180

get a tune also,rom is the cheapest..try rs enthalpy<--- great guy n he'll take care of u..thats if your budget allows you,a tune is always a good idea imo so you can take full advantage of your power adders n helps a lil on gas mileage which is always a good thing since gas is 4.00 n up now a days

AS240

what timing components did you go with?
that clutch should be fine. you don't need anything over the top for a n/a ka. be sure to get the flywheel resurfaced and get an oem nissan throw out bearing, the one's that come in clutch kits suck royal ass. act, xtd, fidanza, and even my spec throw out bearing started making noises after only a few months.
try to find a set of street bearings instead of the race bearings. the race bearings are harder and less forgiving than the street ones. if you can't find any, call acl and they'll help you out.
i think you would also greatly benefit from a enthalpy tune, and the cool thing is that if you ever decide to boost your motor, all you gotta do is stack a safc on top of the enthalpy ecu to fine tune and your good for 400ish whp.

brucetrann

@project-D180: is rs enthalpy this site ? R.S. Enthalpy: Nissan ROM Tunes, ECU Reflashes and Dyno Tuning. Tampa Bay, Florida.
I think i can afford it, but the tunes i saw on the site are for KA-T
Would it be better for me to contact enthalpy tuning ?
Idk what tune I should get also..
I'll get a tune fosho, thanks though lmk =)

@AS240: I bought a timing chain kit from FRSport
Here's the link:OSK 13028-53F02 KA24DE DOHC Timing Chain Kit 1991-1998 Nissan 240SX
So i should get an F1 clutch and ressurface my old flywheel ? dont get a new lightweight flywheel ? or i dont need that ?
I'll be sure to get an OEM throwout bearing then
So i shouldnt get the racing ones ? I found the regular ACL ones.
ACL 4B2746 Duraglide Rod Bearing Set Nissan KA24E/KA24DE
ACL 5M2747 Duraglide Main Bearing Set Nissan KA24DE
And for the clutch, I found this one ebay. what do you think ?
F1 RACING STAGE 3 RACE CLUTCH KIT SET 1991-1998 NISSAN 240SX 2.4L KA24DE SE LE | eBay

brucetrann

Timing chain kit that i got $210


Exhaust I got $30


Headers and Test pipe $145

brucetrann

I took some of the engine apart today, here's some pics =)





Should i get a new flywheel ? this one is pretty gross. Or i'll just resurface it.

TougeSR20Kid

I wouldn't go with that clutch I've read up on it when I was looking for a clutch a few months back and every forum (from honda to DSM to nissan) and every motor regardless of the hp people had a lot of horrible things to say about it, and very few good things aside from the price. you're better off spending a little bit more on a spec or an exedy (not that much more expensive than F1

This... Its been a while but I think something about the SOHC pistons in a DE raises the compression, don't remember what the comp ratio is bumped to but its higher than stock.

Either way I'm stoked on this *subscribed*. Even though I sold out to the snail life a long time ago, I am still a big fan of the high comp NA KA builds, good luck and keep us posted!

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AS240

YES! good job, that is the same timing kit we're using. You don't realize how awesome it is until you have timing chain clatter within the first 500 miles using the ebay kits.
and those street bearings are better suited for your purpose. but frsport does seem to have them backordered. check ebay or go straight through acl if you cant find them.
that flywheel should be just fine with a chem-clean and resurfacing.
as far as the sohc pistons in the dohc, every mod like that will have its pros and cons along with people that live by it and the one's that will say to never do it. imo, i would stick with what you have. check out this thread to get an idea of what it entails.
http://forums.nicoclub.com/sohc-pist...c-t225510.html
AGAIN...research, research, research.
almost forgot! it is definitely a very good idea to copper spray the head gasket (both sides). i use the permatex stuff that you can get at any parts store.

drifter92

Nice plan man, im "Dean Chinowith" from the picture that as240 posted

Ive done tons of work with KA's and i can tell you KA's are where its at, haha.
heres the link to my youtube profile for videos and info.
untouchable361 - YouTube

tootall4la

Very informative
SUBSCRIBED!!

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S13x88

Dude, get the white bunny competition clutch kit. Also, wtf is up with that flywheel? Was the ass end of the motor submerged in the beach or something?

brucetrann

So i Decided to get the exedy organic OEM replacement clutch with F1 lightweight flywheel
eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

My pistons sand blasted, cleaned and ringed ! $50
OEM rings for $100




My cleaned head resurfaced and valve job $125
Block Cleaned for $30
New core Plugs $30
Got new motor mounts, main and rod bearings, and headgasket! Didnt have funds to buy NAME brand parts, BUT i bought the parts at the machine shop, so i think it'll be ok. In the pics, i lubed the bearings with engine oil, but NOW im going to take them back out and put engine assembly lube. Gotta do things right the first time, plus i dont want a sprung bearing. T____T
OEM rear main seal, $25






























NO PAIN, NO F***KEN GAIN LOL






As of now im putting parts together and stuff
I need arp head bolts!
anyone know where to get those for around 80 bucks ?

@TougeSR20Kid: i got the exedy one ahaha

@AS240 yeah im just going to get exedy, cant go wrong with that brand xD what does the copper spray do to the head gasket ?

@drifter92z: damnnn i saw your fb pics and youtube vids. nice man =) i wanna go tracking one day. I like what you did to your s13

@tootall4la: ahaha thanks bro =)

@S13x88: ikr.... idk how or why water would be in there to cause it to rust and stuff. Im changing the flywheel anyways. i tossed that POS flywheel away bahaahhahaha !

AS240

the copper spray makes it seal better. i have never seen a head leak when using it, but i have seen them leak without it. it's very cheap and does wonders.
trust me on this one dude.
and clean both block and head surfaces (before putting in the head studs) with alcohol using a cloth rag until they are absolutely clean before setting the head gasket on and bolting them together.

BTW, are you plastigauging the bearings?
and have you scraped all the old head gasket off the deck of the block? i can see a lot of it in the pics. if you haven't, do it with the motor flipped over to avoid old gasket falling into the coolant passages and oil orifices.

AS240

it would also be wise to run by a hardware or parts store and pick up a 10x1.5 tap. before setting your head studs into the block, you should consider cleaning the threads out. do this by turning the block upside-down, and running the tap into the headstud/bolt holes until they are clean and you can thread the tap all the way in by hand. thread it in multiple times, cleaning the tap and spraying the hole out with brake parts cleaner or something similar after every time.
you will be surprised with how much crap is left in the block even after the machine shop cleans it. if there is dirt/sand/crap in the threads, then the head stud will not seat all the way down into the head which would then give you inconsistent torque numbers when torquing your head down.
keep the questions coming. the more you ask, the better

RB180sxChris

holy crap engine building in your living room!!! you sir are gangsta hahaha.....giving me thoughts on rebuilding my KA hhmmmmm...good luck with everything bro!

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tootall4la

Awesome progress, keep it up dude
Giving me ideas.
Might build up the courage to rebuild my own engine..
Help me rebuild mine lol

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brucetrann

@AS240: alrite 10x1.5 tap, copper spray, and clean the block with alcohol. I havent scraped all of it off, but i did a little.
No i did plastigauge my bearings, its stock bearings so i dont think i have to do that.. do i ?
is there any other helpful information or tips i need to know ? you're helping me a lot bro, thanks =)

@RB180sxChris: Ahaha thanks man ! yeahh it beats working outside in the dark where it's cold and with weird people walking around. i just grabbed a monster and started working on it. You should rebuild it if you have money for it! I barely have enough just to do what im doing now xD Thanks for the luck, ill need it. This is my first time doing something like this.

@tootall4la:Yeah dude, you should rebuild your engine man. If you have money for it, why not ? ahaha if you need help, i can help you with what little knowledge i have already =)

tootall4la

Yeah I'd rather learn and gain experience on rebuilding a ka..
Thanks.. god knows I will need help lol
That's what the community is for (pay it forward)
I need to start saving funds or just blow my financial aid money on my engine

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AS240

yes you need to plastigauge every bearing. if everything turns out correct, COMPLETELY remove the plastigauge off the journal and replace with the bearing using assembly lube. are you using the factory service manual for torque specs and sequence?
i recommend buying a pack of 50 or so razor blades and getting every single little bit of gasket off. when you think you can't get any more off, change out the blade and go over it again, and again and again. don't forget to do this to the head too, but be careful because the head is aluminum it is easy to cut into it. change blades out often because they dull out very fast. when you are absolutely sure you have all the old head gasket off the head and block, clean it multiple times with alcohol until your rag no longer gets dirty. then spray the head gasket with copper spray (both sides). while waiting for the spray to get tacky, set in the headstuds. tapping and cleaning the head stud threads should be done BEFORE you clean the deck, or else you'll have to clean it all over again.

brucetrann

alrite, damn. im waiting for my arp studs to come in the mail. I havent been able to work on my engine bc i did everything else.
T__T

essthirteeeen42

Good stuff man!

punn303

You can also wire wheel old gasket material off too. AS240 is right, copper spray works well.

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brucetrann

Look what came in the mail today, FINALLY



also picked up intake manifold from autozone, felpro ! and some new vacuum lines =)













TIME TO DO WORK GUYS, gotta get my shit running

Nikeboy355

Maybe this will help... I made this thread years and years ago...

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/137862...24de-pics.html

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