boostedsohcs13

I recently sold my KA24E build, and am looking to buy an RB25 for my S13 now. I've been doing some reading, and talking with RB guys, and the whole oiling dilemma has been brought to my attention a few times.

Is installing an aftermarket crank collar absolutely necessary if I'm only planning on running a factory motor? At the very most all I'll do is cam it.

I can see where it would be necessary if I was planning to run 400-500 hp and run 8000rpm all the time, but if the engine will be all factory, shouldnt it be designed to oil to factory specs?

smoked240

I would do the extended crank collar for sure! It's added insurance. One less step if you ever plan to add power too.

The contact from the crank to the oil pump gear is so little even in stock form they tend to wear in and snap. My rb25 was stock for 70,000 miles and when I pulled the oil pump apart there was a nice groove in the pump gear and wiggled back and forth on the crank.

If you can afford it also, I would look into getting new oil pump gears, like spool import etc..
They are stronger and will be useful if you ever plan on 450hp+

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bmaddock

I'm curious as well as to the severity of this issue. If you haven't read deeper into the issue, here are a few more good links to read.

https://mrbizzle.wordpress.com/2010/02/24/84/

http://www.skylife4ever.com/2011/04/...-to-build.html

http://forums.nicoclub.com/common-rb...s-t308581.html

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/6210...p-door-design/


The extended crank collar isn't the end all, be all fix. It's just one of the many parts of the solution. From my research I've gathered that if you are using the RB for the street, I'm sure you would be fine and not have to worry as much about this. The really issues comes from the repeat offenders (drift/circuit/drag racers) where high RPM engine operation is normal.

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boostedsohcs13

Awesome. Thanks for the help

Darius

If you aren't going crazy on rpms all the time, it will last a long time before failing. And please don't just throw a set of cams in a stock engine. Complete waste of money.

boostedsohcs13

I'm not planning on it seeing a lot of abuse, so I'm thinking I should be fine without the collar. If I spent the money on cams, I planned to to a little more, but I'm not sure that kind of money I'm willing to commit to quite yet.

Then again, I still have the option to go SR20

TheRealSy90

So go sr20.

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Sileighty_85

This is an issue you should resolve if bouncing off the Revs or using launch controls.
The oil pump drive contact patch is about 1/8th inch... Which is horrible.











Hitting the limiter or Launch control constantly acts like a jack hammer on that part and will eventually either break the oil pump itself or cause them to round off and just spin resulting in low to no oil pressure.


Installing a crank collar will help prevent this issue from happening. as you can see the the JUN crank collar will extend past the drive resulting in full contact.









Although with the collar there is still a risk of breaking the pump drive due to the design of the "flat spots" corners being on the thinnest part of the drive which can still shatter OEM/N1 pumps. Upgrading the internals to stronger gears ex: Reimax gears can further prevent oil pressure loss.

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後輪駆動車１番
1989 Built SR GT2871R -363whp
1998 S14 W/RB25- 250ish (For Now)
1986 SR86 - 200ish
1990 R32 GTR - 320hp
Don't Buy Engines from JDM-Online http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/207457-jdm-online.html
Don't Buy XS-Power or SSAC Shit

supersayianjim

http://forums.nicoclub.com/rb-billet...s-t542550.html

http://www.frsport.com/Reimax-15110-...r_p_39273.html

the spooling are cheaper.


http://www.spoolimports.com/billet-o...oil-pump-gears

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Darius

Stop. He doesn't need oil pump gears. He needs to A) Not abuse the crap out of the motor or B) Install a crank collar. End of topic. Next!

supersayianjim

or he can

a- get oil pump gear AND get crank snout

b-have piece of mind that his engine oiling system is the best he can get for under 1k

c-ability to rev his engine high if he wants to.

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Darius

I agree with you, but the OP asked if he kept the engine in factory specs, would he need a crank collar in order to have a reliable swap? No mention was made of oil pump gears, nor should it have been because it doesn't apply to his situation. $1000 in "piece of mind" gets you half way to an entire RB25 motor set. That's like installing an $600 high-tech alarm system on a $2000 car. Can he do it, yes. Will it give him piece of mind, yes. Is it worth it, definitely not.

Sforteen

Buy a later Series 2 RB25 at the very least, as some are fixed from Nissan, I'd just buy a NEO RB25 there all around better than the R33 RB25's they have a better trans, rods, solid lifter and there only a few hundred bucks more..

l adam l

no series 2 has the issue fixed, and in fact only SOME of the later model neo's have the crank collar fixed. they do have solid lifters, but better rods and trans? pretty sure the only difference with the trans is the pull type clutch on the neo vs push type on the s1 and s2. rb25 trans are pretty strong all around the years. rods should be the same from neo, s1, s2? i think the only advantage to the neo is the better flowing head and solid lifters...unless you don't want to adjust the lifters every 10k miles, that could be a disadvantage.

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Sforteen

I've never seen a Neo with a short collar, the rods are the same as rb26 rods which are better than the r33 rb25 that's a known fact. The trannies are better due to the updated synchro design, I've personally verified this myself.. they are pull style but that doesn't make it better. Adjusting lifters every 10k is just rediculous.. only reason your arguing is because your misinformed Neo is better period and cost is negligible..

l adam l

^^wasn't arguing. i do see that the neo does have rb26 rods(google search), but i did do a lot of research on rbs before i ended up going with my late model r33 rb26...actually out of a v spec. there are several sources that say the early neo's don't have the crank collar fixed. i'd go newer too personally...i was going to go neo until i read about some of them not having the issue fixed, that and the whole pull type clutches are hella expensive and itd be a headache for me to convert it back to push type.

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Sforteen

Converting to push is very simple.. you can use all z32 parts to do it. Not expensive.. and the tranny is much much better imo

AS240

This thread is the reason I now have a jz.

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'92 HB HX35 rb25 - sold
'89 Coupe GTX35 VVT-I 2JZ - yeah buddy

MR_GUTTI

I have a RB neo and came with the short collar.

supersayianjim

bumppers...........

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