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Old 01-20-2008, 12:03 AM   #1
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Electric fan info inside...

I've been doing a bit of research on the electric fans that fit the S13.

The things I am looking into are the CFM, speed control, and AMP draw.

Today I stumbled upon a book from an electric fan company that we have at work (Advance Auto) that tells the approximate CFM and Amp draw of pretty much EVERY car made from 1972-2003. No, I did not find the 350Z/G35...?

Now, the stats of each fan are based on what fan setup this company recommends; which is based on factory specs, so please consider this. The stats may not be 100% accurate, but should give you a good idea about each fan.


Examples:

1998 Nissan Altima:
Dual speed
low: ~1200 cfm, Amp draw ~16.5A
high: ~1500 cfm, Amp draw ~22.5A

1995 Ford Taurus (3.8L)
Dual speed
low: ~2500 cfm, Amp draw ~23.75A
high: ~3800cfm, Amp draw ~46.5A


These are probably reposts, but the point of this thread is that I can find these ratings for people who have found electric fans that fit on our radiators. I'm trying to create new sources of electric fans that people can use.

Let me know if you have found a fan that fits, and want to get the specs on it. I think everyone looking for fans could benefit from this.
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Old 01-20-2008, 08:04 AM   #2
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Great post!

Quote:
Originally Posted by drift_student View Post
1995 Ford Taurus (3.8L)
Dual speed
low: ~2500 cfm, Amp draw ~23.75A
high: ~3800cfm, Amp draw ~46.5A
Taurus fan owners beware.
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Old 01-20-2008, 12:01 PM   #3
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Seriously. Thats more CFM than any of us need, and on top of that, you're drawing more current than the alternator can produce under 3500rpm.

I have a 14" TorqFlo fan from AutoZone Part #733690, and it flows 1300cfm (iirc, possibly 1400) and pulls only 12 amps. I've never had any problems with it.
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Old 01-20-2008, 12:40 PM   #4
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Yeah, we sell fans under the brand called Hayden at Advance. They are actually made by Siemens. I had their 16" fan that supposedly put out 1200cfm. My friend's Altima fans on low felt as if it put out nearly twice as much air. The amp draw was high as well; 19.5A
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Old 01-20-2008, 01:28 PM   #5
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i just took off my clutch fan because i hated the noise...and left only the ac fan there.

temps didn't increase by any significant in 100+ degree weather, but then again i haven't tracked it.

I'll put a good electric fan on it before i track it though.
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Old 01-20-2008, 01:39 PM   #6
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i use a ford temp v6 electical fan on my car. i dont know the specs but it sure cools the car. also has two fan speeds and is shrouded. slight modification to shroud.
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Old 01-20-2008, 02:12 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stinky_180 View Post
i use a ford temp v6 electical fan on my car. i dont know the specs but it sure cools the car. also has two fan speeds and is shrouded. slight modification to shroud.
What year Ford Tempo, and would you mind posting pics of your setup?

Also, how much did it cost?

I'm sure people are sick and tired of going to salvage yards and seeing Altimas and Tauruses with no e-fans and thinking that the only alternative is an expensive aftermarket setup. I'm not saying that people should be cheap with cooling mods, simply because of how vital proper cooling is, but there are tons of cost effective OEM fans from various manufacturers that could possibly work.
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Old 01-20-2008, 03:01 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drift_student View Post
What year Ford Tempo, and would you mind posting pics of your setup?

Also, how much did it cost?

I'm sure people are sick and tired of going to salvage yards and seeing Altimas and Tauruses with no e-fans and thinking that the only alternative is an expensive aftermarket setup. I'm not saying that people should be cheap with cooling mods, simply because of how vital proper cooling is, but there are tons of cost effective OEM fans from various manufacturers that could possibly work.
i have no idea what year, i just know it was an older model with a v6 engine. i was at the junk yard and all the 240sx were taken apart so i went ahead and walked the domestic isle. i found the fan and just took it without test fitting it. to my surprise, it covered the entire radiator. it cost 15 bucks at the yard . pictures can do some more talking:











e-fan switch


the switch burnt out on me so i replaced it using a relay and switch. the switch is for the highest setting. the low setting is wired up to the lower radiator hose a/c temp sensor or wahtever. the sensor kicks the fan on at some temp... i think 140? i dont know. but it works fine. i only use the highest setting in traffic.
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Old 01-20-2008, 04:14 PM   #9
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Thanks stinky_180, I will try to get the specs on these fans by next week. ( I only work on Saturdays during school. )

Did you have to do many modifications?
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Old 01-20-2008, 04:58 PM   #10
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Keep it simple, clutch fan with fan shroud and a NISMO thermostat does the job! I've never hit over 80-85 degree C with my setup ~320whp SR20DET. As for noise, I thnk the Electric fans make way more noise than a clutch fan. Then again everyone have their own preference.

Steve.
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Old 01-20-2008, 05:02 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drift_student View Post
Did you have to do many modifications?
i had to trim a small piece of plastic so it will clear the drainage plug.
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Old 01-20-2008, 05:25 PM   #12
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Stinky it looks like your fan is the same one from V6 3.8L Taurus.
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Old 01-20-2008, 06:51 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MegasquirtCA View Post
Stinky it looks like your fan is the same one from V6 3.8L Taurus.
it might be, i has no idea. i just know i took out the fan from a ford tempo v6
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Old 01-20-2008, 06:56 PM   #14
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it looks very similar
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Old 01-20-2008, 07:06 PM   #15
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That's the one.

I just picked up two of them at the junkyard for 1/2 off

yee haw
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Old 01-20-2008, 07:21 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LA_phantom_240 View Post
I have a 14" TorqFlo fan from AutoZone Part #733690, and it flows 1300cfm (iirc, possibly 1400) and pulls only 12 amps. I've never had any problems with it.
Most the rating on FLex-a-lite, FAL, Autozone brand, etc...are with NO RESISTANCE. i.e....not mounted on a radiator. You mount them, and the flow rating drops in half when it has to move air through the core.

...so those rating are deceiving.

If it pulls really low amps, it's not moving much air. That's almost a guarantee.

Just an FYI.

Quote:
Originally Posted by stinky_180 View Post
the switch burnt out on me so i replaced it using a relay and switch...
Just a note:

DO NOT EVER use just a switch for a hot wire. Anything that draws more than a few amps ABSOLUTELY REQUIRES a relay.

I run 4 relays for my Altima fans - One for each speed (High and Low), so 2 for each fan.

That way, even if one fails...I'll still have one fan at full strength, and one with low speed, at least. Redundancy = reliability.

But I digress.

Running a fan straight off a switch, with no relay = DANGEROUS.

Use a relay, and trigger the relay via a ground with the switch. Just like factory, and pulls no current across the switch.

- Brian
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Old 01-20-2008, 07:22 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orion::S14 View Post
Most the rating on FLex-a-lite, FAL, Autozone brand, etc...are with NO RESISTANCE. i.e....not mounted on a radiator. You mount them, and the flow rating drops in half when it has to move air through the core.

...so those rating are deceiving.

If it pulls really low amps, it's not moving much air. That's almost a guarantee.

Just an FYI.



Just a note:

DO NOT EVER use just a switch for a hit wire. Anything that draws more than a few amps ABSOLUTELY REQUIRES a relay.

I run 4 relays for my Altima fans - One for each speed (High and Low), for both fans.

That way, even if one fails...I'll still have one fan at full strength, and one with low speed, at least. Redundancy = reliability.

But I digress.

Running a fan straight off a switch, with no relay = DANGEROUS.

Use a relay, and trigger the relay via a ground with the switch. Just like factory, and pulls no current across the switch.

- Brian
can u post ur wiring diagram?
tia would be awesome
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Old 01-20-2008, 07:35 PM   #18
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Try here:

http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.p...ima+fan+wiring

You'll find this:



Just do that, but run the output (pin 30) to BOTH postive fan wires...green and blue. Do it for BOTH fans.

Bare minimum, you HAVE to use 2 relays...wired like in that post.

But 4 is better.

...

ANOTHER NOTE: That diagram shows pin 85 off the battery...so the fans will run with the ignition OFF.

If you wire pin 85 to a switched source, off the ignition...the fan will turn off with the key.

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Old 01-20-2008, 07:59 PM   #19
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thanks orion for the wiring diagram. time to buy a relay.
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Old 01-20-2008, 08:20 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orion::S14 View Post
Several comments:

* you need to switch pins 30 and 87. Source needs to go on 30. Load needs to go on 87. It's fine for now but get in the habit of putting load on 87 because when you have a 5-pin relay with an 87a pin, you won't know how to hook it up correctly

* you need to use #12AWG or larger wire to throughout the entire circuit that carries current from the battery to pin 30, 87 to fan to ground. Pins 85/86 to fuse and ground may use smaller wires since those 2 pins are not pulling much current
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Old 01-20-2008, 08:50 PM   #21
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Yeah, I have the switch in the ground wire on my setup.
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Old 01-20-2008, 11:15 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orion::S14 View Post
Most the rating on FLex-a-lite, FAL, Autozone brand, etc...are with NO RESISTANCE. i.e....not mounted on a radiator. You mount them, and the flow rating drops in half when it has to move air through the core.

...so those rating are deceiving.

If it pulls really low amps, it's not moving much air. That's almost a guarantee.

Just an FYI.
The ratings I posted are free-flow ratings. However, the actual amount of cfm while on the radiator depends on the radiator design. I wouldn't say that the flow rating drops in half though. It just depends on your setup. The disclaimer in the book I'm referencing says that the radiator will cause an average decrease of 15-20%.

Another thing to consider is that most companies display the ratings of a fan operating at a consistent 13.5 or more volts, so your fans will not be as effective at idle.
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Old 01-20-2008, 11:28 PM   #23
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Take note that the colors on the Later year Altima Fans and A32 Maxima fans are not the traditional early year Altima fan colors.


I have 2 bosch 30 amp relays on my setup, one for high speed on the one fan, and one high on the other. The one high speed is controlled by a Derale Fan controller to come on at a certain temp, and the other is to a switched source. The only time I ever need to switch the 2nd fan on is during track days, or very muggy days with my A/C on. Other than that, just the one on highspeed (with a koyo rad, upper cooling panel, and all lower plastics, JDM S14 OEM bumper and Greddy lip) has kept my car cool with no issue.
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Old 01-21-2008, 03:16 AM   #24
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In any case, I ran my cheapie autozone fan at idle for over 2 hours in 80 degree 75% humidity weather and had no overheating whatsoever. Traffic jams suck penis.
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Old 01-21-2008, 07:33 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g6civcx View Post
* you need to switch pins 30 and 87. Source needs to go on 30. Load needs to go on 87. It's fine for now but get in the habit of putting load on 87 because when you have a 5-pin relay with an 87a pin, you won't know how to hook it up correctly...
Agreed, 100%.

Also, here's another diagram, if someone is still unsure about Bosch relay wiring:



(from here: http://www.classictruckshop.com/club...h/foglites.htm )

I like that one, EXCEPT...I prefer to put a switch on the ground (pin 86), and just run 85 directly off the fuse box / ignition switched (+) wire.

Just more food for thought...

- Brian
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Old 01-21-2008, 09:05 AM   #26
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I have a Mustang fan, same as the Taurus one above, works great!
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Old 01-21-2008, 10:46 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drift_student View Post
Examples:

1998 Nissan Altima:
Dual speed
low: ~1200 cfm, Amp draw ~16.5A
high: ~1500 cfm, Amp draw ~22.5A

1995 Ford Taurus (3.8L)
Dual speed
low: ~2500 cfm, Amp draw ~23.75A
high: ~3800cfm, Amp draw ~46.5A

I had heard that the Tarus fans pulled alot of Amps at High speed, so I wired mine up with just the low speed. At low it pulls ~23.75A which is slightly above the Altima's high speed draw of ~22.5A, but moves over ~1000 cfm more. I'm happy with my setup, but will eventually learn how to wire up a relay for extra reliability.
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Old 01-21-2008, 01:16 PM   #28
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Here's my fan set-up, it was pulled from a V6 Ford (either a Taurus or Sable, I don't remember). The shroud on mine seems slightly different than the one posted, hmm...




It's pretty neat because it covers about 90% of the core and I was able to bolt it directly to the mounting tabs on the core with some simple brackets on top and some spacers on the bottom. Much better than through-core zipties. The only trimming required was a small notch for the upper radiator hose (you probably wouldn't even have to do that on SR)

I'm planning on wiring it up according to this diagram pulled from here:



I bought an e-fan thermostat from Summit Racing for like $20 and was planning on hooking it up on low only due to the massive current draw on high. Looks like it should be okay considering on low it pulls more air than an Altima fan. Cool.
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Old 01-21-2008, 01:29 PM   #29
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ok i have a quick question regarding relays. when using two relays, how do i wire them up using the schematics above? would i connect the second rely like this

first relay 87 ------> second relay 30?
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Old 01-21-2008, 01:31 PM   #30
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are any of these wiring diagrams for SOHC ?? I have a tauras fan, but want to wire it to a temp sensor. I dont want a relay switch, because I would have to ride it all day to keep my car from getting too cool.
But I would like to put the high speed on a switch for when i am on the track or the 405.

i was thinking I would have to take a extra temp sensor from a JY 240, and put it in line. And wire the low speed to that somehow.??

ANY SOHC GUYS??
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