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Old 02-22-2012, 08:41 AM   #3721
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Thanks for the insight. I never finished adjusting my ksports before I granaded two of them so that probably let to my last post.
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Old 02-22-2012, 12:09 PM   #3722
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Old 02-23-2012, 11:18 AM   #3723
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is there other dampers that will work with tein lower mounting brackets and top mounts?
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Old 02-23-2012, 07:54 PM   #3724
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Old 02-28-2012, 06:46 PM   #3725
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Anyone else have any issues bolting up the oem rear sway bar to the PBM RLCA's?
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Old 02-28-2012, 06:49 PM   #3726
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the RLCA is made for the OEM link, if you use aftermarket heim joint links then you need to weld a tab at a 90* angle to the exsisting mounting tab.
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Old 02-29-2012, 06:24 PM   #3727
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Quote:
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the RLCA is made for the OEM link, if you use aftermarket heim joint links then you need to weld a tab at a 90* angle to the exsisting mounting tab.
I was using the OEM endlinks and sway.
Also my RLCA were a bear to get onto my subframe, the distance between the two contacts seemed too close by a few mm.
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Old 02-29-2012, 11:43 PM   #3728
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Fuck sway bars. I didnt even use one with my PBM stuff lol

My RLCA fit tight as well but really it was because some of my mounting tabs were a little crooked. Trust me it DOES fit. It may take some persuasion but once its in its solid and fits fine. also you could tap your mounting tabs out a little so they slide in easy then tap them back and the nut and bolt will bring it in tight.
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Old 02-29-2012, 11:54 PM   #3729
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Mine were very tight too but wouldn't you want them to be? My OEM sway bar style links mounted no problem.
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Old 03-01-2012, 07:18 AM   #3730
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Quote:
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Fuck sway bars. I didnt even use one with my PBM stuff lol

My RLCA fit tight as well but really it was because some of my mounting tabs were a little crooked. Trust me it DOES fit. It may take some persuasion but once its in its solid and fits fine. also you could tap your mounting tabs out a little so they slide in easy then tap them back and the nut and bolt will bring it in tight.
Lol cool thanks, just wanted to make sure it was okay.
I ended up using a rubber mallet and went at it to get them in, there was no gap beween the bearing/bushing on the back subframe mount, but on the side that faces the front of the car there is a gap of a few mm so i put a small washer in.

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Mine were very tight too but wouldn't you want them to. be? My OEM sway bar style links mounted no problem.
Yeah that makes sense, i think im going to leave the sway off for now and see how it handles

Edit: posting that much from a fucking phone is a pain in the ass
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Old 03-02-2012, 07:35 AM   #3731
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I vote this thread be cleaned up and slimmed down to just the necessary comments and posts.
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Old 03-02-2012, 07:51 AM   #3732
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What's necessary in some cases is a matter of opinion. If you want the information you'll read the whole thing. There is at least 1 or 2 awesome bits per page.
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Old 03-04-2012, 02:54 PM   #3733
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has anyone ever shortened rear oem LCA's before? i know joel did this on his yellow car but i thought i remember him having some sort of issues.

i got an alignment yesterday and right now im at -6, id like to get it in the 3 or 4 range.

the PBM joints look nice and i think it was stated they go shorter than stock? if it comes down to it i will just order those, but obviously making the oem shorter
will be cheaper.
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Old 03-04-2012, 03:42 PM   #3734
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Quote:
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has anyone ever shortened rear oem LCA's before? i know joel did this on his yellow car but i thought i remember him having some sort of issues.

i got an alignment yesterday and right now im at -6, id like to get it in the 3 or 4 range.

the PBM joints look nice and i think it was stated they go shorter than stock? if it comes down to it i will just order those, but obviously making the oem shorter
will be cheaper.
Same question. I'm running -2 out back and wanna get into <-1 range.
I'm full spl out back, so I can basically do anything.
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Old 03-06-2012, 10:12 PM   #3735
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I always like when I see new developments suspension and chassis wise for our cars

Here's something new!

www.TDP.ie » TDP Nissan S14/15 & R33/R34 Rear Camber Arms

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Old 03-06-2012, 11:00 PM   #3736
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Those are epic but I don't see them as ground breaking.

This on the other hand....

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TDP Single lock conversion for Drifting / Racing

We have developed a new Kit for drift cars to allow for high speed wheel changes between runs. The new Kit will allow a 2 man pit crew to change the two back wheels of a drift car in less than 40 seconds.

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The Kit will include the following parts.

A pair of bolt on hub adapters minimum thickness 25mm. ( measured form the original hub face to the mating face on the wheel )

4 wheels modified to have correct center bore size and recess for locking washer. ( extra wheels modified at small extra cost per wheel ) Dose not stop wheels being bolted on as normal in future. ( Approx cost €30 per wheel )

2 Light weight wheel nuts.

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Approx cost €350-€400. Popular fitments of vehicle and wheel may be cheaper please contact us. ( Nissan S-body and Skyline using Rota Drift wheels )

All parts made form Aerospace high strength alloys. ( 6082 T651 & 7075 T6 )

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Old 03-07-2012, 07:44 AM   #3737
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Kits like that have been floating about the BMW community for years. BMW Motorsports even used a similar set up on some of the early DTM cars instead of making new hubs.


Made from magnesium and the lugs were special and became the drive pins.
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Old 03-07-2012, 07:53 AM   #3738
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This on the other hand is:
www.TDP.ie » New Nissan S-Body complete front suspension kit. Preview


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Old 03-07-2012, 08:20 AM   #3739
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^THAT is awesome,....but probably way too damn much for anyone
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Old 03-07-2012, 09:34 AM   #3740
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^Never enough :P
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Old 03-07-2012, 10:01 AM   #3741
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this thread is an awesome! it should be complete note into spark notes book!
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Old 03-07-2012, 11:16 AM   #3742
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That knuckle setup doesn't look like it corrects roll center at all, which is way more important than having billet aluminum knuckles...
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Old 03-07-2012, 12:32 PM   #3743
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Quote:
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That knuckle setup doesn't look like it corrects roll center at all, which is way more important than having billet aluminum knuckles...
it does there has been many hours put into the development of the kit
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Old 03-07-2012, 04:36 PM   #3744
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it does there has been many hours put into the development of the kit
this but seems like it's designed primarily for mad doriftoring angle though.
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Old 03-07-2012, 05:33 PM   #3745
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By how much? Both the Wisefab and Driftworks knuckles are much taller.
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Old 03-09-2012, 05:04 AM   #3746
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I got this issue with geomaster 2 and lowercontrol arms from driftworks for my S14.

When i got the cone in the right place it seems that the bolt is to short or to long way up.
i did have to make a spacer to get it to work cause otherwise the nut did catch the cone(DW recommend 2 washers but that wasnt enough)
, now im struggeling with the cleerance of the wheel (rear)(original 16 and OZ 17").
And i cant fit the lower cotter pin front or rear..

What should i do ? any ideas ?






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Old 03-09-2012, 10:45 AM   #3747
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lock tight?
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Old 03-09-2012, 11:25 AM   #3748
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Call Driftworks?

Looks like they now use a thinner coating on them...

Driftworks GeoMaster - Race Hub Knuckles Driftworks Shop
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Old 03-09-2012, 06:31 PM   #3749
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Take that top spacer out and you'll have room... IIRC that's for stock LCAs.

Hopefully with the new coating people won't have to file out the bolt holes and ball joint mounts. Looks like they finally include washers for proper fitment and instructions too. One thing they don't mention is you'll need the S13 rear strut to knuckle nut if being installed on s14.
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Old 03-11-2012, 07:40 AM   #3750
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Have talked to driftworks, didnt get any good explanation..
Yes they have a new coating in the geomasters, my understanding was that they got alot of complains cause the paint didnt stick.

This is why i need to the top spacer :



And this is what i did :



Now i could fit the lower cotter pin :

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