UNISA JECS

Nevermind did a quick search:

MMT Fouled
APPEARANCE: Spark plugs fouled by MMT (Methycyclopentadienyl Maganese Tricarbonyl) have reddish, rusty appearance on the insulator and side electrode.
CAUSE: MMT is an anti-knock additive in gasoline used to replace lead. During the combustion process, the MMT leaves a reddish deposit on the insulator and side electrode.
RECOMMENDATION: No engine malfunction is indicated and the deposits will not affect plug performance any more than lead deposits (see Ash Deposits). MMT fouled plugs can be cleaned, regapped and reinstalled.

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• Z32 E-Brake/Parking Brake Heatshield Assemblys!!!

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spartanmisfit

You know what that might make sense. When I took my intercooler piping apart yesterday there was quite a bit of water in it. We didnt think too much about it because it's been raining the past 3 days.

spartanmisfit

Oh, well wth than. I'm even more confused now. So the plugs are fine just miscolored? Maybe from my octane booster or something? Maybe it's my timing, but if so why only at high throttle pct?

BiG MiKE86

try not running octane booster.. a fresh tank of gas - cleanin out ur IC piping or w.e. had water in it and see what happens

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spartanmisfit

well i shouldnt have any octane booster left. ive filled up since then. I wanna mess around with the timing but to be completely honest im not comfortable enough to do it without someone who knows what theyre doing. I havnt messed with timing in about 5 1/2 yrs and the ones i did work on were not like this. I feel pretty dumb but I need to learn.

spartanmisfit

Oh and what should my boost gauge be reading at idle? My boost gauge is in barstoo... thanks Greddy. Right now it's reading about -490 mm/hg

UNISA JECS

Thats about normal, thats about ~19in/hg

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spartanmisfit

I'm sooo confused. I really have no idea now. If it was the timing or cas it would run badly even when not at full boost right?

SoSideways

You have an S-AFC.

If the "tuning" isn't good on it, you could have problems, and it sounds like you're having problems now, so I'm pretty sure your S-AFC "tuning" needs some help.

spartanmisfit

Well yeah, I know it still needs some fine tuning, but it still doesnt make sense why it acted worse after I put in new spark plugs. IT was running fine on 14 lbs of boost, but I was running the wrong spark plugs so when I put in the bkr7e's that's when it went nuts on me. I'm going to do the timing tomorrow hopefully and see if that's it.

SoSideways

It sounds like you're running rich, and so by going to a colder plug, your car isn't burning all the mixture in the cylinder, thus it seems it's bogging or whatever.

Having holes and boost leaks don't help either, but it sounds like you fixed some of them.

But there in lies the problem, your car was probably tuned previously with the holes and boost leaks in place, and also the 6 heat range plugs.

By fixing the boost leaks and going to a colder plug, your car is probably out of tune and acting funny.

That's just what I think is going on, I could be wrong, because I don't fully know what's going on with your car/setup, since you didn't go into detail about everything, just vaguely went over your mod list.

spartanmisfit

YEah, I'm sorry about not going over my mods very well. I've been away from my passion (cars ) for a very long time so I'm learning pretty much all over again. I bought the car with all of the work done to it, and that guy got it a week prior from the original tuner. The guy I bought it from never got a build list and didnt know what was all done to it. I can only list the things I can see. I don't even know if the computer been modified or anyhting. So all that I know that I have is the GREDDY turbo kit, koyo radiator, tial-a-lite elec. fans, apexi full exhaust, and I never tuned with an safc before, so honestly it intimidates me, so I had someone play with it a little that knows more than I do about it, but he's confused with some "in and outs" I guess. I don't even have a FPR or fuel rail or intake manifold. It seems like I got into something unprepared. So now I wanna sell it and start an s14 build on my own but I have to fix my car before I sell it.

SoSideways

Stock FPR and fuel rail are fine, same with the intake manifold.

If anything, you can just sell the GReddy turbo kit and all the other junk and start fresh with a stock motor.

From there, get everything running smoothly, then start over with another turbo or something.

spartanmisfit

Well problem is solved!! So sideways ... thanks. It was my SAFC. It was apparently too rich in parts and too lean in others. The only problem now is it wants to stall when I put it in nuetral, but that's fine with me for now. I'll be going to the dyno soon to fine tune it and see what I'm pushing. Thanks everyone!

SoSideways

Sounds like you need to mess with the decel air function.

Do a search on here, I'm pretty sure there was a write up on here about how to do it.

If it's not on here, find the Fresh Alloy forums, and do a search there. A guy by the name of Grant (I forget his screen name) did a pretty in-depth write up on how to set up decel air function.

Also, make sure your BOV is getting a vacuum line of its own, because otherwise your BOV won't work at its full potential, which will cause your car to want to stall during deceleration and sluggish response when you do on/off throttle.

spartanmisfit

Thanks sooo much! I ran into a much worse problem and I'm about to post a new thred in a minute. I think my turbo is done...

reccakun08

omg sosideways i wish you chimed in my thread about that! although zar did mention it but i didnt know it would cause so a noticeable sluggish throttle response. I will try to reroute my vacuum lines and see if that fixes the problem.

SoSideways

Sorry I didn't see your thread...