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01-13-2011, 11:48 AM | #1 |
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Lets see your Stitch Welds
I searched and the last thing that came up was back in 08. It only had like 3 pix. So maybe we can make a thread since a lot more people are doing it. Thanks!
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01-13-2011, 02:54 PM | #3 | |
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can't really see them here but they are there
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01-13-2011, 03:18 PM | #5 |
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01-13-2011, 04:11 PM | #6 | |
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01-13-2011, 04:18 PM | #8 |
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Lincoln. Had to set the heat pretty low, kept burning holes till i dialed it in justttt right. Our cars are like soda cans.
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01-14-2011, 08:54 AM | #13 | |
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and mestizo, your engine bay looks as if it's been taken over by slugs, lol. It's nice to see that method of stitchwelding though... very strong. I'll stick with my little spot welds though. I really can't see where one has an advantage over another. Either way, "shit ain't flexin". |
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01-14-2011, 11:51 AM | #14 |
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I see a lot of people who stich weld just the top of the engine bay they don't weld the inside of the wheel wells with the frame. I think that's one of the more beneficial parts...
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01-14-2011, 01:43 PM | #16 |
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Many purposes depending on the project.. you'll mostly see the fabrication of "tubs" to increase room for the wheels over factory well sizes. Allowing more stearing angle and less rubbing, etc.
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01-14-2011, 01:59 PM | #17 |
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Stitch welding a chassis effectively increases the torsional rigidity of the car (reduces twisting), this allows the suspension to be easier to tune and operate the way it is supposed to. In an ideal world the chassis must never absorb energy from the suspension, the chassis is supposed to be a solid structure for the suspension to mount onto. By having a solid structure you get much more predictable handling since the suspension is doing all of the work. It is easier to tune a car when the suspension is the only thing deflecting and absorbing the impacts. It is much harder to tune a suspension when the chassis is flexing different amounts under different loads. Bracing a chassis with a front and/or rear strut tower braces and underbody braces are a good idea but these modifications cannot be fully utilized when it is still attached to a flexing chassis.
Prep the seam areas for welding and do spot welds with 1-inch intervals, alternating spot welds from the front to the rear of the car and also the left to the right to prevent any warping. Stitch welding strength doesn't come from the addition of welding wire, but actually comes from the fusion of the sheet metal panels. Overall the whole stitch welding process uses approximately two pounds of wire for a medium sized car. The torsional rigidity gained from the addition of two pounds of material is much better than any strut tower brace or underbody brace can provide. After the stitch welding procedure the car will have a lower degree of twist under a torsional load, there is no guarantee that the degrees of twist will decrease by X% as every car responds differently to the stitch welding process. Some cars are very poorly spot welded from the factory, while others are done very well, Also the overall age/condition of the car will determine how well it responds to stitch welding work. After the service, the seams will be thoroughly protected from the elements and will not be left open to corrosion. Key Benefits More predictable handling Quicker response in handling Less interior noises (creaking and squeaking) |
01-14-2011, 02:56 PM | #18 | |
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Jonnie fraz made them for me to raise my Carbing strut tower bar to clear my S14 SR valve cover. However now I am running a prototype bar that Jonnie made me which clears the valve cover and attaches to the firewall.
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01-07-2015, 09:37 AM | #19 |
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don't mean to bump an old thread but i felt like i should post here before starting a new thread ………..
for those that have stitch welded/seam welded does it have a NOTICEABLE impact on the cars handling/stiffness ? in theory it sounds like it should, I would like to get some opinions for those who have done so. |
01-08-2015, 10:11 PM | #22 |
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Im in the process of doing this. Just got a Hobart 140. Have a couple pieces of the same material ill be stitch welding to practice on. Any recommendations? Ill start in areas that are least visible.
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01-09-2015, 07:33 AM | #23 |
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I brought this welder!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Eastwood-MIG...475445?vxp=mtr and it looks like iam going to get the rest of my body painted first before I get the engine bay done. also any pointers I should be looking at?
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01-09-2015, 07:35 AM | #24 | |
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01-09-2015, 08:35 AM | #25 |
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this is why i ask….chill
http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=19728.0 <----click on first link in that article i know its only one test and its on a Z car but still he lost "stiffness" by almost 10%…………... so I'm curious to all those that are doing this if they really think it helps or not. Last edited by nick Ritter; 01-09-2015 at 12:02 PM.. |
01-09-2015, 09:22 AM | #26 | |
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02-15-2015, 11:40 AM | #28 |
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so still no testimony??
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