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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series. |
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10-10-2011, 07:35 PM | #1 |
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replacing SR20DET rocker arms
I have a rebuild going on and I'm thinking of replacing just my rocker arms since the ones on there are showing a bit of wear. I got all my shims numbered etc but I'm wondering if I have to re-shim cause I'm getting new rockers. Thanks for any input and yes I have searched but nothing specific comes up
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10-11-2011, 06:41 AM | #4 |
Leaky Injector
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If you're talking about the shims that sit on top of the valve stems, no. Their purpose is to make sure that both valve stems are the same height so that the rocker arm is level which isn't affected by the rocker arms at all. The height of the rocker arm is controlled by the lash adjusters. If you're running solid lash adjusters, yes you should re-shim these while you are in there (really just a 'might-as-well' thing; you should be checking the lash periodically regardless). If you're running the stock hydraulic lash adjusters you don't have to do anything because the height is controlled automatically. That is, as long as you kept them upright the entire time. If they were ever in a position that wasn't standing upright you will have to bleed them before installation.
All of that being said, what exactly did this rebuild include? If you had your valves replaced/relapped/anything that involved removing them from the head, I would certainly re-shim because it is highly unlikely they are at the same height as they were before the rebuild. |
10-11-2011, 07:24 AM | #5 |
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define, "showing some wear"
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10-11-2011, 07:37 AM | #6 |
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This is very, very simple. I did this as well as I had grooves in my strike plates on my old head. Made a ton of noise (sounded like rod knock almost). I replaced these and it made a world of difference.
If you have the factory HLAs (as mentioned), you do not need to reshim. DO NOT TAKE THE SHIMS OUT. You don't want to mismatch the shims that are currently in there or you could have an issue. I do, however, recommend you take the extra 10 - 20 minutes and bleed the HLAs with clean oil. It will get the old gunk out and help prevent any sticking. I have a BNIB set of rocker arms for sale if you're interested. Just let me know. |
10-11-2011, 07:53 AM | #7 |
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Yeah like the people about above have said do not take them out. If you absolutely have to you are going to have to remember exactly where they go. I made the mistake of dropping my head during my rebuild and all my shims and guides went everywhere. If it makes you feel any better I said f**k it and just threw them back in there and am about 6000 miles on my motor and no issues at all. My valve train makes as much noise as any other sr.
Another person on here has mentioned that since the sr uses HLA's that it would automatically adjust the height and that is what I thought but I have been told otherwise and you need to reshim. Idk I say just make sure you bleed them correctly and you will be ok |
10-11-2011, 09:23 AM | #9 |
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I bleed my lifters every time I have the cams out it's just too easy to do while you're there. Do it.
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10-22-2012, 08:52 PM | #11 |
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i think i measured them at .096" average... thats totally off the top of my head though. when i rebuilt my sr, i used a set of calipers to make sure that each rocker arm had the exact same size shims on each side. there is a difference in size between them. some were as much as .003-.005 thicker.
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10-26-2012, 01:46 PM | #12 |
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If you do re-shim make sure to get a re-shim tool. Bleed the lifters while you're in there, don't mix up the shims or the ninja angels of nissan gods will literally haunt you forever and your car will not right also. But everything else has pretty much been covered in this thread. Swapping lifters is super easy, just pop the cams out of the way and you're in business. Just make sure to tie off the timing chain tight so you don't have to go fishing for it at he bottom of the timing cover. This will make a simple lifter swap a job from hell.
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