RB20 in S14 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

turboeic · 03-29-2007, 03:37 PM

Hi I was wondering what would be needed to install a RB20 into a S14? I have searched and most of the stuff that I found would be into an S13. Would it be around the same thing? What differences are their? And I read that you have to get SOHC PS lines. Wat about for the DOHC and I still need the mounts and crossmember. Anything else besides replacement parts? Thanks

MadScientist · 03-29-2007, 03:45 PM

not to bust your bubble... but doing RB20 really is pointless... you would be better off with a CA18 and thats not saying much eather.

Mods for RB20 is nearly impossable to source, just like CA18s they are being dropped by most manufatures. RB25 and RB26 share some qualities and manufactures have extended their lines to suit both. Consider your options for aftermarket parts and availablity when choosing an engine... and not just because its a cheep alternative.

Brain fart* I forgot the name of the company that does the engine mounts for the RB swap.

Peace
Drew

intel · 03-29-2007, 03:47 PM

mckinney? as one of them?

turboeic · 03-29-2007, 03:51 PM

Ok I got the mounts but would I have to bend the PS lines? And is there anything else I should look for?

turboeic · 03-29-2007, 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MadScientist

not to bust your bubble... but doing RB20 really is pointless... you would be better off with a CA18 and thats not saying much eather.

Mods for RB20 is nearly impossable to source, just like CA18s they are being dropped by most manufatures. RB25 and RB26 share some qualities and manufactures have extended their lines to suit both. Consider your options for aftermarket parts and availablity when choosing an engine... and not just because its a cheep alternative.

Brain fart* I forgot the name of the company that does the engine mounts for the RB swap.

Peace
Drew

Thanks but I've been thinking of getting one for a while. And I really don't care too much for aftermarket support. I really don't plan on pushing this thing too crazy right now. I just got tired of KA's because I just threw a rod on my second one so right now I'm just thinking something different.

Komatsu X · 03-29-2007, 04:04 PM

. I Had A Fully Built Rb20det... So If You Need Rb20det I Can Get Whatever You Need.

Pistons
Rods
Intake Mani
Exhaust Mani
Cams
Cam Gears
Coil Packs
Light Flywheel
Clutchs

I Also Have Piston Rings For All Oem Rb Engines

And I Also Have A Shit Load Of Oem Parts For Rb20.. So You Dont Have To Worry About Finding Parts

revd34 · 03-29-2007, 04:13 PM

do a rb25. it is worth doing

http://www.sykoperformance.com/index.htm

projectRDM · 03-29-2007, 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turboeic

Hi I was wondering what would be needed to install a RB20 into a S14? I have searched and most of the stuff that I found would be into an S13. Would it be around the same thing? What differences are their? And I read that you have to get SOHC PS lines. Wat about for the DOHC and I still need the mounts and crossmember. Anything else besides replacement parts? Thanks

Someone lied to you. SOHC power steering lines don't work on any engine except the SOHC KA. You would need DOHC lines, which you already have.

turboeic · 03-29-2007, 07:31 PM

I was doing a little more research and on one thread someone said you don't need the driveshaft. but on one website they have a driveshaft. to do i need it or can i get by without it?

sideview_180sx · 03-29-2007, 09:49 PM

put it like this. if you know you will be satisfied with 280-300whp. then get the rb20 in regards to what mods are needed to get the hp there and still have the RB sound. once you go past that hp, the rb20 becomes a paperweight.

-gt2535 or equivalent turbo
-intercooler
-fpr
-400cc or so injectors
-boost controller

and have at it. wiring should be very similar. if anything just rebend the PS lines gently or use a hand held pipe bender to get the lines to connect to the pump. see if you can source up an r33 crossmember. AFAIK its a bolt-in affair on s14 chassis.

250sxdet · 03-29-2007, 10:08 PM

If you're going to do a rb20 swap, just put in the extra money and do a rb25 swap. You'll be happier in the end. Why not get the extra .5 liters of displacement? I used the syko performance mounts for my rb25 swap, and I couldnt be happier with the quality and the placement of the motor. If you need mounts, pm kouki_s14 his name is henry and he distributes mounts for syko. Also, if you need a clip, we can also help you get one. If you need help with wiring, I can refer you to somoone. If you need a shop for the install, i know han from autohan...he does great work. LMK.

slideways14 · 03-29-2007, 10:30 PM

1jz>rb20 1jz>rb20 1jz>rb20 1jz>rb20

ECR33S14 · 03-29-2007, 10:38 PM

An SR would be much easier and also quite frankly a better buy. if your going RB do a 25 or 26. either way an RB will cost more than an SR and it sounds like your replacing a fucked up motor for a better one.

250sxdet · 03-29-2007, 10:40 PM

RB's are way more reliable for higher hp outputs than sr's ( 350whp+). Also, there is a day and night difference in torque and the smoothness of power as you go up the rev range. Honestly, the weight doesnt make a noticeable difference for track or daily driving. If youve never driven an RB powered car, dont bring up the weight difference. i havent come across any RB owners that have said the added weight had led to worse performance. There are things you can do to offset the weight; cf hood, battery relocation. BTW, the RB swap is not all that hard...I did mine with some help from my cousin. keep in mind that i have very little mechanical experience.

slideways14 · 03-29-2007, 10:46 PM

1jz>rb20 1jz>rb20 1jz>rb20 1jz>rb20

250sxdet · 03-29-2007, 10:54 PM

^ Do you know how much money it would take to build a 450whp sr vs a rb25 that can already handle it with a standalone, new turbo, and injectors? Also, reliability is a big factor with higher horsepower. 1jz's dont own rb's. if anything, the 1jz is an equivalent to the rb25. If you want to talk 2jz's then those are comparable to rb26's. Besides, why do the 1jz swap when its a harder swap to do that requires more custom work?

kouki_s14 · 03-29-2007, 10:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slideways14

if you wanna do a 6 cylinder that bad do a 1jz. they own rb's all day long.

have you ever driven a SR powered 240? 1jz powered 240? RB20 powered 240? RB25 powered 240? RB26 powered 240?

probably not

SR20 is lightweight, that's about the only advantage it has

1jz, 2jz rb25/6 are all iron block motors, heavy yes, but smoother torque then you will EVER get with the SR

6 cylinders are 6 cylinders, 1jz is NOT better than an RB and an RB is NOT better than a 1jz. Both can be built to well over 1000hp, very few of us will ever build a motor to that capacity, so again we have absolutely no say in which motor is better.

So unless you've built and driven on all those motors your opinion isnt worth much

slideways14 · 03-29-2007, 11:04 PM

1jz>rb20 1jz>rb20 1jz>rb20 1jz>rb20

250sxdet · 03-29-2007, 11:11 PM

^ LOL, obviously you missed the point. he decided on an RB swap. The rb25 is not too much more money than a rb20. were talking about $1000. The amount of work for the swap is the same. Power and torque is day and night compared to an SR. The weight difference doesnt make a performance difference. You are talking about a track car, but most likely this is his daily driver / weekend warrior.

slideways14 · 03-29-2007, 11:26 PM

1jz>rb20 1jz>rb20 1jz>rb20 1jz>rb20

kouki_s14 · 03-29-2007, 11:27 PM

Quote:

actually i have driven a 2jz

in a supra i assume?

Quote:

and been in rb 240

didnt drive it then? 25 or 26?
and prolly not on the track though right?

Quote:

and have owned 2 s14 with sr20

ha and we wonder why you're choosing the SR

Quote:

and was driving a hatch with a sr20 at an event yesterday.

so still no experience with an RB on the track yesterday either?

Quote:

the only motor i havent expierenced first hand is a 1jz, but given there reputation and what not, i believe that is the best canidate with a r154 trans for doing a 6cylinder swap.

experience > so called reputation

Quote:

the sr in a built track car gives you great balance

my car's balanced feels fine with my Syko motor mounts, CF hood, and battery relocation to the trunk

Quote:

and why stick a motor that weighs more than that when you can achieve plenty of hp and performance from a motor that is suppose to come in that car in the first place.

plenty of hp yes, but you sacrifice reliability early on and again torque of a 6 cylinder is uncomparable.

Quote:

so as for my opinion, i believe it is best to stick with a sr,

you already admitted you've only rode in a RB 240, so what is your opinion worth?

Quote:

especially if you dont have boat loads of money to spend and dont want end up starting a dead beat project where in the end you will sell all your parts to someone else on this forum.

people that half ass swaps and are cheap shouldnt go RB anyway

not trying to pick a fight, but you need to do some more research before you say a RB240 is only for drag

250sxdet · 03-29-2007, 11:29 PM

Ok, the rb25 bottom end can hold about 500whp. What are you going to do with more power than that? The 1jz is also a 2.5L, so I i dont see how it can make more power than an RB25. Seeing as how both are 2.5 liters, 6 cylinders, and iron block.

kouki_s14 · 03-29-2007, 11:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slideways14

1jz $800, rb20 $1200 , rb25 $2000. mounts for the car will run all about the same depending on who you know, or you could just use a r32 cross member. all these swaps require extensive wiring. time spent wiring will be a little more for the 1j. as for power rb20 is completly useless hence the sr20 referal. rb25 can make power , but doing the same upgrades to a 1j will give you more power. 1j can handle a shitload more power on a stock bottom end. ultimately, the 1j motor will make more power easy and cheaper than an rb. im all for nissan but the 1j is a better canidate for swap.

go find a 1jz and put it in a 240 without extensive fabrication. Not everyone is an engineer, welder, fabricator. A RB swap can be done by most people at home which saves at least 1500 in labor. With the 1jz you run into problems with exhaust routing, powersteering, AC, etc.

1JZ into a Nissan is not cheap for the common 240 owner

slideways14 · 03-29-2007, 11:34 PM

1jz>rb20 1jz>rb20 1jz>rb20 1jz>rb20

vanish1 · 03-29-2007, 11:52 PM

RB20: 1989-1993 217 hp/ 203 tq 1200 bux
red SR20: 91-94 205 hp/ 202 tq 1900 bux

RB20 is same weight as KA-T. There are full gasket rebuild kits. Most RB20s were in family cars, where as SR20s were abused more.
You CAN fit a KA tranny onto a RB20...white bunny special.
less stress per cyclinder compared to a I4 when pushing nice boost.
2.0L RB is better bc more detonation occurs with higher compression and more boost

turboeic · 03-30-2007, 12:13 AM

alright thanks i guess now i know not 1jz even though I really wasn't thinking it. And me and my bro are gonna do this and he's very mechanically savvy. But do i need a driveshaft or can i used my stock one.

kouki_s14 · 03-30-2007, 12:14 AM

you need a new one

sblack13 · 03-30-2007, 04:32 AM

well with the stock r32/r33 crossmember you should be able to use your stock driveshaft. With one of the cars i had that i did an rb20 on, i only had to use a custom driveshaft was because i was using a custom crossmember.

slideways14 · 03-30-2007, 07:28 AM

1jz>rb20 1jz>rb20 1jz>rb20 1jz>rb20

MadScientist · 03-30-2007, 11:10 AM

HAHAHAHAHA.... some lame-o-tard gave me a -rep and called me a POSER!!! Leave a name next time...or are you worried about getting -rep in return!

I have driven an RB20DET... its way way under powered and runs high 15s at the track... that is = to the stock KA24 & CA18. Reliablity is no reason to do a swap especially with any of the RBs. Yes you can get parts from random sources but then your dealing with effects of a dwindling market, and less reliable sources. You want reliable... stick with the KA... its a stong motor on its own and has good torque. KA-T will add a few issues and if your not looking to drop extra cash on a spare engine... dont do it. SR20 is reliable as the stock KA, but can hold higher boost more reliably. RB is a stong in the 25 and 26 and has huge support (growing in the US)... also holds boost and can killa 1jz or 2jz all day when built (higher RPM, higher boost curve, higher torque range).

I say again... consider the aftermarket support when dealing with engine swaps. Its not a Trend... its Fact!!

Peace
Drew

03-29-2007, 03:37 PM	#1
turboeic Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Azusa Age: 31 Posts: 320 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	RB20 in S14 Hi I was wondering what would be needed to install a RB20 into a S14? I have searched and most of the stuff that I found would be into an S13. Would it be around the same thing? What differences are their? And I read that you have to get SOHC PS lines. Wat about for the DOHC and I still need the mounts and crossmember. Anything else besides replacement parts? Thanks

03-29-2007, 03:45 PM	#2
MadScientist Zilvia.net Advertiser Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: NOLA Age: 44 Posts: 1,964 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	not to bust your bubble... but doing RB20 really is pointless... you would be better off with a CA18 and thats not saying much eather. Mods for RB20 is nearly impossable to source, just like CA18s they are being dropped by most manufatures. RB25 and RB26 share some qualities and manufactures have extended their lines to suit both. Consider your options for aftermarket parts and availablity when choosing an engine... and not just because its a cheep alternative. Brain fart* I forgot the name of the company that does the engine mounts for the RB swap. Peace Drew __________________ URAS

03-29-2007, 09:49 PM	#10
sideview_180sx Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: somewhere north of mexico Posts: 1,538 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	put it like this. if you know you will be satisfied with 280-300whp. then get the rb20 in regards to what mods are needed to get the hp there and still have the RB sound. once you go past that hp, the rb20 becomes a paperweight. -gt2535 or equivalent turbo -intercooler -fpr -400cc or so injectors -boost controller and have at it. wiring should be very similar. if anything just rebend the PS lines gently or use a hand held pipe bender to get the lines to connect to the pump. see if you can source up an r33 crossmember. AFAIK its a bolt-in affair on s14 chassis. __________________ feel the rythym. feel the ride. get on up. it's bobsled time. COOL RUNNINGS!!! formerly sideviewcivic Save a Horse. Drift This Cowboy. AirBag Club Member #0014

03-29-2007, 10:30 PM	#12
slideways14 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: pa Posts: 427 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	1jz>rb20 1jz>rb20 1jz>rb20 1jz>rb20 __________________ Last edited by slideways14; 11-08-2007 at 06:34 PM..

03-29-2007, 10:38 PM	#13
ECR33S14 Leaky Injector Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: south kackalaki Posts: 131 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	An SR would be much easier and also quite frankly a better buy. if your going RB do a 25 or 26. either way an RB will cost more than an SR and it sounds like your replacing a fucked up motor for a better one. __________________ 95 Zenki-RB25 swap with a couple of things 95 Zenki-SR on the way

03-29-2007, 03:47 PM	#3
intel Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: arizona Posts: 483 Trader Rating: (10) Feedback Score: 10 reviews	mckinney? as one of them?

03-29-2007, 03:51 PM	#4
turboeic Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Azusa Age: 31 Posts: 320 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Ok I got the mounts but would I have to bend the PS lines? And is there anything else I should look for?

03-29-2007, 04:04 PM	#6
Komatsu X BANNED Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: RIVERSIDE CA Posts: 255 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	. I Had A Fully Built Rb20det... So If You Need Rb20det I Can Get Whatever You Need. Pistons Rods Intake Mani Exhaust Mani Cams Cam Gears Coil Packs Light Flywheel Clutchs I Also Have Piston Rings For All Oem Rb Engines And I Also Have A Shit Load Of Oem Parts For Rb20.. So You Dont Have To Worry About Finding Parts

03-29-2007, 04:13 PM	#7
revd34 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: burbank, SoCal Age: 34 Posts: 338 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	do a rb25. it is worth doing http://www.sykoperformance.com/index.htm

03-29-2007, 07:31 PM	#9
turboeic Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Azusa Age: 31 Posts: 320 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	I was doing a little more research and on one thread someone said you don't need the driveshaft. but on one website they have a driveshaft. to do i need it or can i get by without it?

03-29-2007, 10:08 PM	#11
250sxdet Zilvia Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: so cal Posts: 165 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	If you're going to do a rb20 swap, just put in the extra money and do a rb25 swap. You'll be happier in the end. Why not get the extra .5 liters of displacement? I used the syko performance mounts for my rb25 swap, and I couldnt be happier with the quality and the placement of the motor. If you need mounts, pm kouki_s14 his name is henry and he distributes mounts for syko. Also, if you need a clip, we can also help you get one. If you need help with wiring, I can refer you to somoone. If you need a shop for the install, i know han from autohan...he does great work. LMK.

03-29-2007, 10:40 PM	#14
250sxdet Zilvia Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: so cal Posts: 165 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	RB's are way more reliable for higher hp outputs than sr's ( 350whp+). Also, there is a day and night difference in torque and the smoothness of power as you go up the rev range. Honestly, the weight doesnt make a noticeable difference for track or daily driving. If youve never driven an RB powered car, dont bring up the weight difference. i havent come across any RB owners that have said the added weight had led to worse performance. There are things you can do to offset the weight; cf hood, battery relocation. BTW, the RB swap is not all that hard...I did mine with some help from my cousin. keep in mind that i have very little mechanical experience.

03-29-2007, 10:46 PM	#15
slideways14 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: pa Posts: 427 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	1jz>rb20 1jz>rb20 1jz>rb20 1jz>rb20 __________________ Last edited by slideways14; 11-08-2007 at 06:34 PM..

03-29-2007, 10:54 PM	#16
250sxdet Zilvia Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: so cal Posts: 165 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	^ Do you know how much money it would take to build a 450whp sr vs a rb25 that can already handle it with a standalone, new turbo, and injectors? Also, reliability is a big factor with higher horsepower. 1jz's dont own rb's. if anything, the 1jz is an equivalent to the rb25. If you want to talk 2jz's then those are comparable to rb26's. Besides, why do the 1jz swap when its a harder swap to do that requires more custom work?

03-29-2007, 11:04 PM	#18
slideways14 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: pa Posts: 427 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	1jz>rb20 1jz>rb20 1jz>rb20 1jz>rb20 __________________ Last edited by slideways14; 11-08-2007 at 06:34 PM..

03-29-2007, 11:11 PM	#19
250sxdet Zilvia Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: so cal Posts: 165 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	^ LOL, obviously you missed the point. he decided on an RB swap. The rb25 is not too much more money than a rb20. were talking about $1000. The amount of work for the swap is the same. Power and torque is day and night compared to an SR. The weight difference doesnt make a performance difference. You are talking about a track car, but most likely this is his daily driver / weekend warrior.

03-29-2007, 11:26 PM	#20
slideways14 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: pa Posts: 427 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	1jz>rb20 1jz>rb20 1jz>rb20 1jz>rb20 __________________ Last edited by slideways14; 11-08-2007 at 06:33 PM..

03-29-2007, 11:29 PM	#22
250sxdet Zilvia Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: so cal Posts: 165 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	Ok, the rb25 bottom end can hold about 500whp. What are you going to do with more power than that? The 1jz is also a 2.5L, so I i dont see how it can make more power than an RB25. Seeing as how both are 2.5 liters, 6 cylinders, and iron block.

03-29-2007, 11:34 PM	#24
slideways14 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: pa Posts: 427 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	1jz>rb20 1jz>rb20 1jz>rb20 1jz>rb20 __________________ Last edited by slideways14; 11-08-2007 at 06:34 PM..

03-29-2007, 11:52 PM	#25
vanish1 Zilvia Addict Join Date: May 2005 Location: Ft. Lauderdale Posts: 655 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	RB20: 1989-1993 217 hp/ 203 tq 1200 bux red SR20: 91-94 205 hp/ 202 tq 1900 bux RB20 is same weight as KA-T. There are full gasket rebuild kits. Most RB20s were in family cars, where as SR20s were abused more. You CAN fit a KA tranny onto a RB20...white bunny special. less stress per cyclinder compared to a I4 when pushing nice boost. 2.0L RB is better bc more detonation occurs with higher compression and more boost

03-30-2007, 12:13 AM	#26
turboeic Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Azusa Age: 31 Posts: 320 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	alright thanks i guess now i know not 1jz even though I really wasn't thinking it. And me and my bro are gonna do this and he's very mechanically savvy. But do i need a driveshaft or can i used my stock one.

03-30-2007, 12:14 AM	#27
kouki_s14 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Los Angeles Posts: 1,550 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	you need a new one

03-30-2007, 04:32 AM	#28
sblack13 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: May 2005 Location: Seattle Age: 34 Posts: 1,016 Trader Rating: (10) Feedback Score: 10 reviews	well with the stock r32/r33 crossmember you should be able to use your stock driveshaft. With one of the cars i had that i did an rb20 on, i only had to use a custom driveshaft was because i was using a custom crossmember.

03-30-2007, 07:28 AM	#29
slideways14 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: pa Posts: 427 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	1jz>rb20 1jz>rb20 1jz>rb20 1jz>rb20 __________________ Last edited by slideways14; 11-08-2007 at 06:35 PM..

03-30-2007, 11:10 AM	#30
MadScientist Zilvia.net Advertiser Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: NOLA Age: 44 Posts: 1,964 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	HAHAHAHAHA.... some lame-o-tard gave me a -rep and called me a POSER!!! Leave a name next time...or are you worried about getting -rep in return! I have driven an RB20DET... its way way under powered and runs high 15s at the track... that is = to the stock KA24 & CA18. Reliablity is no reason to do a swap especially with any of the RBs. Yes you can get parts from random sources but then your dealing with effects of a dwindling market, and less reliable sources. You want reliable... stick with the KA... its a stong motor on its own and has good torque. KA-T will add a few issues and if your not looking to drop extra cash on a spare engine... dont do it. SR20 is reliable as the stock KA, but can hold higher boost more reliably. RB is a stong in the 25 and 26 and has huge support (growing in the US)... also holds boost and can killa 1jz or 2jz all day when built (higher RPM, higher boost curve, higher torque range). I say again... consider the aftermarket support when dealing with engine swaps. Its not a Trend... its Fact!! Peace Drew __________________ URAS

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