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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series. |
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04-22-2017, 01:57 PM | #1 |
SR20 Tapping
Hey all this is my first time posting on here, i am trying to figure out this tapping i am having with my sr.
I recently installed it and just got it running and after a couple minutes of idling it started to tap really loud, i am not really sure what to check for at this point, i will include a video and if anyone could help that would be great. And i have also bleed the lifters several time now. Video --> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oc8FahdznrA |
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04-23-2017, 12:42 AM | #2 |
Zilvia Addict
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Arizona ٩( ᐛ )و Subaru Parts Consultant
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Have you made sure the rockers are shimmed properly? If one side is higher than the other, when the valve closes there will be a gap between the rocker and the shim. Once the cam lobe comes back around and hits the rocker, depressing it, that rocker smacks down onto the shim. Easy way to check is to toss a feeler gauge between all of the shims, make sure none of them have massive clearances when the valve is completely closed. If they are, check the guides for the same thing, you'll need a very narrow feeler gauge to check the guides though.
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04-23-2017, 10:26 AM | #3 |
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I would check oil pressure,
make sure oil is flowing from all 16 holes above the cam lobes, make sure you have guides to the left, shims to the right, when looking at the engine from the side of the car, on that side of the engine. how are you bleeding the lifters? normally, place them in a cup of oil, submerge completely, and push the center plunger down several times using a thin stiff pin/wire. then, be sure you do not set them on their side, lifter must remain upright. try unplugging each coil, one at a time, to make sure the noise is not isolated to a cylinder (that would be bad news). do a compression test, any abnormality you should inspect that cylinder I notice there is an exhaust "tap" associated with the noise in the head as well. I would recommend you quiet the engine down by using an OEM exhaust system, so you can hear the motor better. I would drive it like that for a couple months in fact, to be sure all the noises are normal, before installing anything noisy. OEM Exhaust will support more power than the OEM turbo can produce, its fine. make sure you use FSM specification when tightening the camshafts down, and performing any other procedure in the head. the cam caps are only tight to 8.8~ft*lbs for example. be very clean when working on the engine, any tiny bit of debris can clog one of the many tiny orifice and that will cost the engine. |
04-24-2017, 10:00 AM | #7 |
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That wasnt really for you, it was for anyone with a problem similar. You hear aomething odd check it out or get your boyfriend to like in a scary movie.
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04-27-2017, 06:26 PM | #8 |
Figured it out guys, i started to take the motor apart and when taking the head off i was cleaning out cylinder 3 of coolent that leaked in from the head being pulled and when doing so the piston went down alittle so i pulled the oil pan and there is no rod bearing in sight
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