crioten

ok im planning this out and will **hopefully** have it all by then end of next month... im not looking to make serious numbers since this is/will be my only car, so heres the set up:

92 copue with a 98ka in it w/ 5spd tranny

stock t25
ssautochrome manifold for KA
370cc injectors
walbro fuel pump
s-afc2
sr smic (will later upgrade to greddy intercooler kit, yay christmas!!!)
some kind of downpipe that will work with that manifold (i hear the sr ones will work...)
turboxs boost controler
all the nesscary turbo lines and intercooling piping as well

um i think thats pretty much it...

what do you think about using this(http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33742) with the ssa manifold and t25 turbo? will it do anything for me or am i wasting my money?

what kind of #'s do you think ill be able to get? im hoping for about 200rwhp...

__________________
IMG exceeds forum limit of 150kb

IGSDann

PJ (AceInHole) was able to get 300 ft/lbs torque and just under that for HP out of a T25, so 200whp should be easily achievable, I think with good tuning 225-250 should be easy all day long.

__________________

Pushing 14.7 PSI of all natural boost!!!

crioten

thats what i was hoping i feel that i can get 220, but ill be dissapointed if its less than 200ish...

__________________
IMG exceeds forum limit of 150kb

Jeff240sx

I don't believe you'll need a boost controller. In fact, depending on what car's turbo you use, you'll run from 7-14psi wastegate pressure.
I used to be an avid fan of the s-afc.. but I've heard of a firmware upgrade from the Emanage allows you to input target a/fs and the unit tunes for you. Also, it has optional ignition maps.. like a baby standalone. You may want to look into that.
If you have questions, I have answers.
-Jeff

__________________
Whatup?

Flybert

When you upgrade to a front mount, I'd also get rid of the 370cc and stock MAF and get some 480cc and a Z32 MAFS for some breathing room.

crioten

youre talkin about greddys emanage right? hmmm, so you would recomend this route over safc then? ill have to talk to some people about this sounds good to me...

also, should i get the oil line that goes to the oil pan (is this the oil feed or return? i get confused lol) welded or tapped/jbwelded?

__________________
IMG exceeds forum limit of 150kb

m0rex

I got that same question about the oil lines. Im kinda confused so im going to go to some shop around my area and see how much they will charge me. Or anyone know where you can get a kit that has the lines and the oil pan fittings for a ka24de.

North240

You guys need to read "maximum boost" by Corky Bell, its going to help you greatly in the long run. I hope you guys arent building these kits yourself??
The return line runs fron the bottom of the turbo to the oil pan, hence returning oil to the pan. Mine is welded its a better idea then JB weld IMO.

__________________
ROUND 2

crioten

of course ill be putting mine together by myself, i love DIY, theres no greater stasfaction than blowing up your car than doing it yourself!! lol

someday ill get around to picking up that book, hell if borders has it right now ill go get it lol

__________________
IMG exceeds forum limit of 150kb

crioten

lol, i just got it, boreders had it and i found a gift card that i had from xmas haha

__________________
IMG exceeds forum limit of 150kb

Jeff240sx

Yes, I'd suggest the Emanage at this point.
The oil pan you have a few options. The first is to punch the hole and JB weld the fitting. It's fine. Put some silicone around the JB weld, and you're solid. Just remember to scuff up the pan/fitting before JB welding it. Jeff's Turbo v1.5 was JB welded with a nut on the outside and inside, copper washers and fiber washers. Then JB'd and silicone'd. No issues.
The next best way is to punch the pan, and run a greased tap through. The grease catches the shavings as you tap threads. Then teflon and thread on the oil bung. Silicone the outside.
Despite the fact Horsepower TV doesn't do a good job with the imports, every supercharger/turbocharger setup I've seen them do, they use a greased tap on the pan. The punch pushes some metal back, so you get more than 2 threads. It appears to be ~6-10 threads, plenty for holding nonpressurized oil from spashing out.
The final best way is to drop the suspension (grab a Chilton's manual and read "removing the oil pan".) Remove the pan, drill and WELD the bung. Wash all the shavings out of the pan. Reinstall.
-Jeff

__________________
Whatup?

crioten

what about tapping it with the grease and all that, but instead of teflon, using jb weld and silicone...

i really dont feel like droping the pan lol...

of course ill change the oil right afterwards

thanks for all the help man, really

__________________
IMG exceeds forum limit of 150kb

Maeda

No.

I'll have to respectfully disagree with Jeff on this one
Get the wastegate set pretty low (4 psi spring) and use a Greddy Profec B spec 1 or the new S... NOT THE 2!!!!!!!!!! to turn up the boost to whatever you want. You will get much better turbo response this way, even though it costs a little more(in this case just get a T28 later when your boost addiction outgrows the T25).

Although...
With a T25 you might not have to worry about a boost controller though...
The spool up should be near instant.

I'd still use a boost controller though if I were you, but then again i'm not.

__________________

Maeda

Don't be a bitch. Safe is much better then sorry. Drop the PAN!!!

You can't even really get a drill into the highest spot on the pan for the bung anyway.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Oh and FUCK the Greddy front mount kit.
Get a cheaper 200$ ebay core, and run shorter custom pipes.
You'll get away 1/2 price.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Emanage is cool HOWEVER you can only really tune the open loop portions of the map (WOT) in it's out of the box form.

You'll also need
the support tool and cable (talk to me for some tricks to get away cheap on this stuff *wink wink nudge nudge* or you could get the E-01 but it's not worth it IMO)
O2 Sensor singal faker thing (allows you to tell the ecu at what rpm to go into open loop so you can tune it.)
Ignition harness is also a good idea... Due to the nature of piggy backs, the ecu does NOT retard timing as it should so you need to correct that (safc can't do this)...

Feel free to ask me for help too....

__________________

Jeff240sx

AFAIK the SSA bottom mount does not allow the use of an external wastegate. That leaves you with the 95% of t25/28 that are internally actuated that came off another car. Therein lies my statement. If you go with a t25/28, get it off a sr20det or something close. Those run 7psi actuator pressure. They can be adjusted/rigged to go higher without a boost controller, but cannot go lower. And at 7psi.. you'll be pushing the limit of 370cc injectors with a t28. ~9-10psi on a t25. So, my reasoning on not needing a boost controller during the ordering parts process. Later, have a blast with it once you have the setup/fuel to support more pressure.
-Jeff

__________________
Whatup?

Maeda

Jeff's right. I'm thinking too generally.
Get some bigger injectors a fuel pump and a boost controller. =)

Although I've seen quite a few SR guys running 370s on 14psi of boost with just an upgraded pump... I wouldn't recommend this though.

__________________

Jeff240sx

SR at 15psi = 260-270rwhp from what I've seen. Stock KA at 12psi (t3/4) = 290rwhp from two dynos done at XAT.
SR at 7psi = 190rwhp (stock sr swap). KA at 7psi = 230rwhp (every turbo kit manufacturer's dyno says so).

No. Do not make 14psi on a KA with 370cc injectors. The KA makes more power per pound of pressure than a SR. Not opinion. Not a engine debate. Just stating that you can't use SR boost levels as guesstimates.
-Jeff

__________________
Whatup?

Maeda

Is this due to the displacement of the engine?
Displacement = more air = need more fuel = 370's way too small?

370's even on an sr at 14psi is asking for trouble... so the extra displacement makes it a definet NO NO huh?

__________________

crioten

so in order to run without a boost controler, what sized injectors should i get? 480's?...

but wouldnt i be much safer with that manual boost controler?

im looking for safe and reliable here guys only car i got and its gotta run :P

on a scale of 0-10, how much work is it to drop the pan (i havent looked into it).. i said work, not how hard lol...

__________________
IMG exceeds forum limit of 150kb

Maeda

manual boost controllers are not my idea of safe and reliable. but thats just me...

Do what jeff said. Use the stock actuator setting and no boost controller on 370s and you should be fine taking into account that everything else is in order.

The oil pan is cake. It just takes a long time. 6 hours for me the first time.....
I can do it in 3 now (done it 3 times now)...

__________________

crioten

ah ok gotcha, thats $75 less i have to spend right now

i love it, this project is getting cheaper and cheaper...

i really think ill do a write up and send it to a few of you "pro" (haha) guys and have you look over it and add/change stuff... then put it in the faqs section or something...

__________________
IMG exceeds forum limit of 150kb

Maeda

Yah. 200 rwhp will feel extremely different and fun, but when you get bored of it...

Upgrade the injectors, maf, and get a Profec B type 1 and boost it more. =)

__________________

Jeff240sx

Look at my site.. it has my first setup's install writeup. I've pulled the pan 3 times now.. and the Chilton's manual's suspension dropping method is the way to do it IMHO.
-Jeff

__________________
Whatup?

sideview_180sx

if you ever need to figure out how big of injectors you will need for HP use this equation::: (HP x BSFC(.5) x 10.5)/( # of injectors x .80(duty cycle). generally you would want to go slightly bigger in injectors so they aren't running at 80% all the time.

like in your case you want 220whp like around 260crank (taking into account 17% driveline loss which varies greatly on setup) (calculations (^%^%^$$^$&[email protected]$%) it comes out too 273cc injectors. since your above that, duty cycle is about 73% of the 370cc injectors capability. But remember if your using used SR injectors, they may not be up to par to handle 80% duty cycle, very unlikely tho. just get an FPR to up the fuel pressure to compensate for it. So many ways to adjust for fuel its confusing if yo don't know what your doing.

__________________
feel the rythym. feel the ride. get on up. it's bobsled time. COOL RUNNINGS!!!

formerly sideviewcivic
Save a Horse. Drift This Cowboy.
AirBag Club Member #0014

Jeff240sx

Sidefeed injectors can handle 95% DC (duty cycle) fairly easily. They are physically cooled by the fuel flowing through them. Topfeeds I wouldn't put past 90%.. and progressively less as their size increases.
-Jeff

__________________
Whatup?

crioten

what about this turbo dunp pipe thing? would it be worth it? opinions plz...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33742

__________________
IMG exceeds forum limit of 150kb

Jeff240sx

It's needed to mate to an sr20det downpipe. Their html skills are scary though.. that bish isn't in the middle!
-Jeff

__________________
Whatup?

crioten

so (excuse me for being retarted, again... lol)... ill need something like that to use a sr downpipe with that manifold/t25 right?

__________________
IMG exceeds forum limit of 150kb

morpheus8486

Lately I've been reading through these KA-T posts and trying to figure out what I want for my future set up cuz I'm kind of a noob when it comes to this. Anyways, I feel like i'm thread jacking but I think this applies closely enough to the other posts, but my question is does it matter what size injectors used in order to not use a boost controller? And from what I've gathered from the above posts, running no boost controller on this particular turbo will get you 7-14psi and up to 14psi of boost is pushing it on 370cc injectors so going with bigger injectors initially would be the safest, correct?

__________________
'91 240sx Fastback SuperHicas
My Car Domain Page

Jeff240sx

Injectors don't have anything to do wtih a boost controller. But.. there's really no use to having a boost controller when running 370cc injectors. Because, well.. a car is perfectly drivable at 260rwhp. It's when you have 50# or 72# injectors that will handle 350-450rwhp... you cannot drive on the street nicely at those levels. Even my 300hp is shredding 265/40/18 Goodyear Eagle F1 GS Fioro tires when rolling on the throttle in 2nd. So there, a boost controller allows you to run low wastegate pressure (7-10psi or so), and at the push of a button crank to 20psi for drag/street races.

And a turbo from a turbo'd factory car (like the t28 from an sr20det) runs at 7psi. The t3 from a z31 is also 7psi. Eclipses run 12-14psi, and the srt-4 runs ~14-16psi stock. Those are the pressures that the wastegate is set at, and you cannot go lower. So.. don't run an eclipse turbo on your 370cc injector KA. You will blow at ~300hp from lack of fuel. I wouldn't run more than 10psi on a 370cc setup. Because myself and some local KA-Ts run 280-300hp at that pressure. A smaller turbo will be 260-280hp.. which is right on the brink of danger.
-Jeff

__________________
Whatup?