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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series. |
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03-18-2011, 10:12 PM | #1 |
Zilvia Addict
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When i turn on my electric fan.
Well I have an electric fan on my mishimoto radiator, connected to a rocker switch in the cab. Motor idles fine and such, except when I flip the switch on. Once i switch it on i get unusual motor noise and the idle drops a few hundred rpms. About 200-300 from where it normally sits.
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03-18-2011, 10:17 PM | #2 | |
Zilvia FREAK!
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ur drawing too much current...did you use any relays?
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03-19-2011, 12:20 AM | #7 |
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^^^^^
that, I did the E-fan crap. dual too. and then at times my car would run hotter than normal..and also depending on your amp on the switch, it can blow and you can be runnin your car w/o a fan at all. Been there done that, so i jst went back to the OE set-up with the A/C fan and clutch fan with shroud. worries went away.
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03-19-2011, 07:22 AM | #9 | |
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hellooooooooooooooooo wire it correctly you answered your own question
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03-19-2011, 07:42 AM | #10 |
Zilvia Addict
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I got it all wired up, looking at
Battery to switch Fan to switch Fan to ground Switch to ground All works, just get the rpm surge when i turn it on, and engine noise as well. |
03-19-2011, 08:46 AM | #11 |
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Im starting to think possible alternator going bad? Also get a little rpm drop when i turn on my headlights, dash lights also dim and come back when i turn on the headlights.
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03-19-2011, 10:39 AM | #12 | |
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you need some sort of relay to regulate the power cuz ur running the fan at max capacity...you can burn out your fan and blow out your alternator
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03-19-2011, 08:37 PM | #16 | |
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search there are a ton of diagrams available for efan installs
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04-15-2011, 08:16 AM | #17 |
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Your lights dim and idle drop because on initial fan start up the fan/s draw high amps due to a transient response. The amperage settles back down, but it is still drawing amps and make your alternator work harder hence the effect on your idle. even if you had this wired to a relay, the fans will still draw the same amperage. Ok, couple questions:
1. What type of fan/s are you using? 2. Still using stock alternator? (I recommend Quest 125 Amp upgrade if you insist on electric fans, HID's, etc) I use Audi dual fans with digital 2 speed fan controller and Audi fan resistor. Also 125A Quest alternator. No issues at all. |
04-15-2011, 08:45 AM | #19 |
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http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/173441...fo-inside.html
heres a good thread to start off with got couple diagrams in there 2 |
04-15-2011, 10:09 AM | #20 |
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There are a few things to address:
1. You should really get a relay in the setup to turn the fans on. Sure the amp draw will still be there, but it will keep things from melting down/failing. 2. The RPM drop is normal with more load on the system. The only true fix is to put a bigger alternator on it (I sell Quest Alternator conversion kits) Don't read to much into the hype of a stock fan being the cats-ass, they are loud, a PITA to work around, and generally the fluid couplings in them suck anyway. A properly shrouded and setup E fan will work equally good as the stock fan at all times. (PS: When are you bringing your car up?)
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04-15-2011, 10:44 AM | #21 | |
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Quote:
You could try installing a better alternator.
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