Sr20 starting problem - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

idamaster · 01-17-2010, 08:50 PM

My sr20 will not start. It will turn over but not fire. I can get it to start if I pull the 10A fuse for the fuel pump, let it die and then put the fuse back in and fire up the car. The spark plugs are cheap ass champion bullshit with a black base, and the side electrode being white. The cylinder second from the firewall has a broken off insulator tip. Once the car turn on it will run and pull fine though. My only guess is that the spark plugs aren't cold enough and I need to get new NGK's and drop these champion ones that I bought the car with. On the fuse chart the fuse for the fuel pump (walbro) is 15A but the one I have is 10A do I need to change that? Why is the car not starting?

rb25s13vert · 01-17-2010, 09:17 PM

the fuse isnt going to keep the car from starting, if anything it will just blow more often, if you replace it i wouldnt go higher than 15a, but you do need to scrap those cheap plugs and get some ngk's,

idamaster · 01-17-2010, 09:25 PM

You may say so but the car will only start if I pull the fuse out, start it, then place the fuse back in and start the car again.

*brndck* · 01-17-2010, 10:26 PM

sounds like your car is flooding out for for some reason. check your fpr, get some fresh plugs, and replace your fuse with the correct one.
you can use ngk coppers (iirc its bkr6e? or bkr7e will work fine) they're cheap but don't last as long as iridiums or platinums
fuse should be like $3 for a whole box.

idamaster · 01-17-2010, 10:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brndck

sounds like your car is flooding out for for some reason. check your fpr, get some fresh plugs, and replace your fuse with the correct one.
you can use ngk coppers (iirc its bkr6e? or bkr7e will work fine) they're cheap but don't last as long as iridiums or platinums
fuse should be like $3 for a whole box.

Im going to change the plugs tomorrow with some from autozone since I dont think they sell NGK bkr7e's anywhere here locally. I already have plenty of fuses so that wont be a problem. Ive driven the motor like this for almost 2000 miles and never had a problem so Im guessing it has to be the plugs. Would these plugs intended for the sr20de motor work for now until I can order some bkr7e plugs?
NGK iridiums
AutoZone.com | | Spark Plug | NGK IRIDIUM IX

Bosch
AutoZone.com | | Spark Plug | BOSCH SUPER PLUS

idamaster · 01-18-2010, 09:12 AM

Bump on ^^ question and what size gap for the sr?

VNG704 · 01-18-2010, 09:31 AM

a quick search would get you http://zilvia.net/f/engine-tech/2816...ark-plugs.html

idamaster · 01-18-2010, 09:40 AM

I just called and they dont carry BKR's. SO that didnt really answer my question. It did about the gapping though.

idamaster · 01-18-2010, 11:05 AM

I used the bosch coppers and the car runs fine. Turns on now. The starter is making a grinding noise after the motor starts running but from my past experiences with this in a VW all it needs is some grease.

idamaster · 01-18-2010, 11:44 AM

Just took the car out for a drive. Started fine at my house 2-3 times. I get to where I was going to go, turn the car off come back 5 minutes later and try to start it and it happens again. I drive home turn the car off and right back on a second later and it starts with the starter grinding.

KoukiMonsta · 01-18-2010, 12:54 PM

do you have any fpr? aftermarket fuel pump? are your fuel lines hooked up correctly?(and what other mods do u have, ppl need tro give better info in 1st post..)

if u can start the motor by dis-abling the fuel pump your shits getting flooded (most likely)

or maybe ur IACV is an issue. when it doesnt start do u try it a WOT? maybe u need more air. maybe the motor thinks its cold so it "chokes" it ( no air/lots of fuel)

as for the grinding starter i dont think its related...

EDIT: i gap my bkr7e's at 25, but i kno guys that use 32....both our cars run fine...

EDIT, i just read the whole thread lol, iridium plugs are not good for boosted motors. they are way too fucking expensive and they DONT LAST AS LONG. search around here for that info. BKR7E only plug to use. cheap as hell at autozone

idamaster · 01-18-2010, 02:13 PM

WOT wont help. I think its the FPR but a friend of mine says it might be the O rings. I think the only mod that matters in this problem is my walbro pump. Everything else is a FMIC, catch can, koyo radiator, RA stoppers, apexi N1, heavy duty clutch, everything is suspension. The plugs I installed are the bosch coppers (2.50 each) gapped at 30 for now until I put an order on Bkr's. How would I find out if its the FPR or the Rings?

idamaster · 01-18-2010, 07:23 PM

When the vacuum line to the fpr is pulled is it supposed to let fuel through or is the regulator supposed to close.

JRwerks · 01-20-2010, 01:49 PM

im pretty sure no fuel is suppose to be getting threw that vaccum line.

idamaster · 01-20-2010, 06:09 PM

No I mean with there being no vacuum to the fpr would the fpr close or open. Found the answer myself, already orderd the FPR from phase2 so we will see when I get it in next week.

idamaster · 01-26-2010, 09:08 PM

Update - Just installed my new Adjustable FPR, set it to 40psi with the vac line disconnected. Drove around fine came home to see if it would start and it wouldnt. I pulled the fuel rail out of the manifold and set them on top of some cardboard, turned the ignition on but didnt start the car.... No leaks. HALLLLLLLLP

steve shadows · 01-26-2010, 09:14 PM

You need to have the fp set to 40 psi with the vacuum line CONNECTED.

Maybe this is part of your issue. Way too much fuel.

idamaster · 01-26-2010, 09:17 PM

Ok I will try that, be back in a few minutes haha.

KoukiMonsta · 01-26-2010, 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by idamaster

Ok I will try that, be back in a few minutes haha.

Quote:

Originally Posted by steve shadows

You need to have the fp set to 40 psi with the vacuum line CONNECTED.

Maybe this is part of your issue. Way too much fuel.

ya u have alot of fuel there...mines been at 35(connected) for a while now running damn well

idamaster · 01-26-2010, 09:35 PM

Same thing, 40psi with the vacuum line, then I tried 36. All of them did the same thing.

idamaster · 01-27-2010, 03:58 PM

This is taped after I drove the car to warm it up. If the car has been sitting for a while it will start fine.

XnTroubleX · 01-27-2010, 04:26 PM

Roll it off a hill!! Jk,, bump for great local guy, someone help him, we need to have this car back running and tearing up the streets!!

idamaster · 01-27-2010, 04:57 PM

Cleaned ICAV, did nothing. Took the fuel pressure down to 3psi. Car seemed to turn on with a little hesitation 2-3 times then wouldnt start.

idamaster · 01-27-2010, 05:19 PM

I have the ECU unbolted, how do I turn the screw and when do I turn on the ignition to check the light?

idamaster · 01-27-2010, 06:22 PM

Got one code: 13. For coolant sensor. It was unplugged when I bought the car, drove it for a while and then realized it was unplugged, plugged it in and it didnt make a difference. I removed the old sensor, while putting in the new one I snapped of the plastic connector revealing the sensor. Im kind of pissed but nothing I can do, lost 23 bucks and have to find another store that carries it.

Grimsta · 02-04-2010, 08:21 PM

Try replacing your fuel pump relay with a known good unit and see what that does

idamaster · 02-04-2010, 09:28 PM

Forgot to mention, its already been fixed, CTS.

01-17-2010, 08:50 PM	#1
idamaster Zilvia Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Louisiana Posts: 166 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Sr20 starting problem My sr20 will not start. It will turn over but not fire. I can get it to start if I pull the 10A fuse for the fuel pump, let it die and then put the fuse back in and fire up the car. The spark plugs are cheap ass champion bullshit with a black base, and the side electrode being white. The cylinder second from the firewall has a broken off insulator tip. Once the car turn on it will run and pull fine though. My only guess is that the spark plugs aren't cold enough and I need to get new NGK's and drop these champion ones that I bought the car with. On the fuse chart the fuse for the fuel pump (walbro) is 15A but the one I have is 10A do I need to change that? Why is the car not starting?

01-18-2010, 12:54 PM	#11
KoukiMonsta Nissanaholic! Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: NC Posts: 1,969 Trader Rating: (23) Feedback Score: 23 reviews	do you have any fpr? aftermarket fuel pump? are your fuel lines hooked up correctly?(and what other mods do u have, ppl need tro give better info in 1st post..) if u can start the motor by dis-abling the fuel pump your shits getting flooded (most likely) or maybe ur IACV is an issue. when it doesnt start do u try it a WOT? maybe u need more air. maybe the motor thinks its cold so it "chokes" it ( no air/lots of fuel) as for the grinding starter i dont think its related... EDIT: i gap my bkr7e's at 25, but i kno guys that use 32....both our cars run fine... EDIT, i just read the whole thread lol, iridium plugs are not good for boosted motors. they are way too fucking expensive and they DONT LAST AS LONG. search around here for that info. BKR7E only plug to use. cheap as hell at autozone __________________ @UpshiftEngineering

01-26-2010, 09:14 PM	#17
steve shadows Post Whore! Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: LA and OC Posts: 8,202 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	You need to have the fp set to 40 psi with the vacuum line CONNECTED. Maybe this is part of your issue. Way too much fuel. __________________ Like Me on FaceBook !

01-27-2010, 06:22 PM	#25
idamaster Zilvia Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Louisiana Posts: 166 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Got one code: 13. For coolant sensor. It was unplugged when I bought the car, drove it for a while and then realized it was unplugged, plugged it in and it didnt make a difference. I removed the old sensor, while putting in the new one I snapped of the plastic connector revealing the sensor. Im kind of pissed but nothing I can do, lost 23 bucks and have to find another store that carries it. Last edited by idamaster; 01-27-2010 at 08:01 PM..

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01-17-2010, 09:17 PM	#2
rb25s13vert Leaky Injector Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: mcas beaufort, sc Age: 41 Posts: 58 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	the fuse isnt going to keep the car from starting, if anything it will just blow more often, if you replace it i wouldnt go higher than 15a, but you do need to scrap those cheap plugs and get some ngk's,

01-17-2010, 09:25 PM	#3
idamaster Zilvia Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Louisiana Posts: 166 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	You may say so but the car will only start if I pull the fuse out, start it, then place the fuse back in and start the car again.

01-18-2010, 09:12 AM	#6
idamaster Zilvia Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Louisiana Posts: 166 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Bump on ^^ question and what size gap for the sr?

01-18-2010, 09:31 AM	#7
VNG704 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 1,575 Trader Rating: (17) Feedback Score: 17 reviews	a quick search would get you http://zilvia.net/f/engine-tech/2816...ark-plugs.html

01-18-2010, 09:40 AM	#8
idamaster Zilvia Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Louisiana Posts: 166 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	I just called and they dont carry BKR's. SO that didnt really answer my question. It did about the gapping though.

01-18-2010, 11:05 AM	#9
idamaster Zilvia Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Louisiana Posts: 166 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	I used the bosch coppers and the car runs fine. Turns on now. The starter is making a grinding noise after the motor starts running but from my past experiences with this in a VW all it needs is some grease.

01-18-2010, 11:44 AM	#10
idamaster Zilvia Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Louisiana Posts: 166 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Just took the car out for a drive. Started fine at my house 2-3 times. I get to where I was going to go, turn the car off come back 5 minutes later and try to start it and it happens again. I drive home turn the car off and right back on a second later and it starts with the starter grinding.

01-18-2010, 02:13 PM	#12
idamaster Zilvia Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Louisiana Posts: 166 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	WOT wont help. I think its the FPR but a friend of mine says it might be the O rings. I think the only mod that matters in this problem is my walbro pump. Everything else is a FMIC, catch can, koyo radiator, RA stoppers, apexi N1, heavy duty clutch, everything is suspension. The plugs I installed are the bosch coppers (2.50 each) gapped at 30 for now until I put an order on Bkr's. How would I find out if its the FPR or the Rings?

01-18-2010, 07:23 PM	#13
idamaster Zilvia Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Louisiana Posts: 166 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	When the vacuum line to the fpr is pulled is it supposed to let fuel through or is the regulator supposed to close.

01-20-2010, 01:49 PM	#14
JRwerks Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: SOCAL Posts: 1,200 Trader Rating: (55) Feedback Score: 55 reviews	im pretty sure no fuel is suppose to be getting threw that vaccum line.

01-20-2010, 06:09 PM	#15
idamaster Zilvia Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Louisiana Posts: 166 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	No I mean with there being no vacuum to the fpr would the fpr close or open. Found the answer myself, already orderd the FPR from phase2 so we will see when I get it in next week.

01-26-2010, 09:08 PM	#16
idamaster Zilvia Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Louisiana Posts: 166 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Update - Just installed my new Adjustable FPR, set it to 40psi with the vac line disconnected. Drove around fine came home to see if it would start and it wouldnt. I pulled the fuel rail out of the manifold and set them on top of some cardboard, turned the ignition on but didnt start the car.... No leaks. HALLLLLLLLP

01-26-2010, 09:17 PM	#18
idamaster Zilvia Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Louisiana Posts: 166 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Ok I will try that, be back in a few minutes haha.

01-26-2010, 09:35 PM	#20
idamaster Zilvia Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Louisiana Posts: 166 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Same thing, 40psi with the vacuum line, then I tried 36. All of them did the same thing.

01-27-2010, 03:58 PM	#21
idamaster Zilvia Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Louisiana Posts: 166 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	This is taped after I drove the car to warm it up. If the car has been sitting for a while it will start fine.

01-27-2010, 04:26 PM	#22
XnTroubleX Zilvia Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: louisiana Age: 37 Posts: 293 Trader Rating: (7) Feedback Score: 7 reviews	Roll it off a hill!! Jk,, bump for great local guy, someone help him, we need to have this car back running and tearing up the streets!!

01-27-2010, 04:57 PM	#23
idamaster Zilvia Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Louisiana Posts: 166 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Cleaned ICAV, did nothing. Took the fuel pressure down to 3psi. Car seemed to turn on with a little hesitation 2-3 times then wouldnt start.

01-27-2010, 05:19 PM	#24
idamaster Zilvia Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Louisiana Posts: 166 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	I have the ECU unbolted, how do I turn the screw and when do I turn on the ignition to check the light?

02-04-2010, 08:21 PM	#26
Grimsta Leaky Injector Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: ca. Age: 37 Posts: 73 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Try replacing your fuel pump relay with a known good unit and see what that does

02-04-2010, 09:28 PM	#27
idamaster Zilvia Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Louisiana Posts: 166 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Forgot to mention, its already been fixed, CTS.