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Old 05-31-2012, 03:53 PM   #1
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Thermostat issue.

I had a thermostat that was stuck closed and I replaced it with a brand new one. So I filled up the radiator and took it out for a drive and almost right away it got way too hot. I shut the car off and touched the top radiator hose and it was hotter than hell and the thermostat hose was ice cold. But when I squeezed it the hose was stiff and it wasn't circulating water into the block. Basically it's acting like the thermostat is stuck closed again. I have no idea what the hell the issue is because I replaced the water pump and I have a brand new Isis radiator installed. The thermostat is rated to open at 170 degrees. Also I noticed when I took off the housing the previous owner had doubled up on housing gaskets which I thought was odd. Any help would be awesome. The motor is a KA24DE by the way.
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Old 05-31-2012, 04:03 PM   #2
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You have Air Bubbles in the system and need to bleed the air out.

I would highly recommend using a Nissan OEM thermo, and not a Autozone one if you didnt.
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Old 05-31-2012, 04:06 PM   #3
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youtube it on how to bleed your radiator
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Old 05-31-2012, 04:06 PM   #4
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Check the search button,theres threads that explain KAs need proper bleeding,sometimes they dont,sometimes they do,i had to on mine when I replaced the thermostat,didnt bleed the system and overheated,bled the system,never overheated since then..... its weird,but true,something about iron blocks
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Old 05-31-2012, 04:09 PM   #5
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Yeah I bought autozone crap just to stay on the cheap side. But I might look into an OEM one. I looked for the bleeder bolt and it looks like the bolt snapped off in the threads. Like it's just missing the top of the bolt :/.
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Old 05-31-2012, 04:12 PM   #6
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Autozone will work fine ,but for 3to 5 bucks more,you can get OEM,that sucks about the bleeder screw,you can maybe bleed it by unscrewing the temp gauge sensor(1 wire) and use that as a bleeder,as it should be the next highest point that could be unscrewed
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Old 05-31-2012, 04:22 PM   #7
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Well if that doesn't work, how would I get the busted bolt out of there?
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Old 05-31-2012, 04:27 PM   #8
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run the car with the nose jacked up or on a hill up, with the rad cap off, HVAC on outside circulation, heat on full blast, until the bottom hose gets hot. step inside and check the guage every now and then.
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Old 05-31-2012, 04:47 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKL1031 View Post
run the car with the nose jacked up or on a hill up, with the rad cap off, HVAC on outside circulation, heat on full blast, until the bottom hose gets hot. step inside and check the guage every now and then.
It sucks cuz there is no heater or A/C in my car. The whole thing was taken out . But if I still run it nose up would that still work?
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Old 05-31-2012, 04:54 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enders.S13 View Post
But if I still run it nose up would that still work?
Yes!!

If you don't have any heat then most likely the hoses aren't connected on the firewall and just rerouted back onto the engine.

Unless your heater core is messed up causing no heat?
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Old 05-31-2012, 05:03 PM   #11
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another easy way to take out air bubbles are the coolant swirl breather tanks. I used one on my coupe and worked great.. also dont forget T-stat have lil hole on top of it, that should be at 12oclock. just a FYI
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Old 05-31-2012, 05:03 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by slydin240sx View Post
Yes!!

If you don't have any heat then most likely the hoses aren't connected on the firewall and just rerouted back onto the engine.

Unless your heater core is messed up causing no heat?
Yeah I don't have the hoses connected to the motor. The guy who had it before me just kinda threw a motor in there and sold it to me. So basically I'm fixing the problems he didn't want to deal with. But hey a running 240 for $1400 isn't bad. It's a project.
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Old 06-01-2012, 12:56 AM   #13
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I have a brand new 95 oem Nissan thermo. I just used it for a sec but never ran it. I paid 32 from the Nissan dealership, Ill take 15 shipped. Lmk
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Old 06-02-2012, 02:31 PM   #14
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Get one of those cooling system funnel kits, with the different fitting to put on the neck of the radiator filler, it's like $20 but worth it, I changed my lower radiator hose so had to refill the cooling system, all I did was put my car on the slant of my driveway and put the funnel kit on the radiator filler neck, took me 25 minutes to bleed the system, I didn't even have to use the bleeder valve, I've used the kit for a long time and no overheating issues at all
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Old 06-03-2012, 12:18 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mishkin_707 View Post
Get one of those cooling system funnel kits, with the different fitting to put on the neck of the radiator filler, it's like $20 but worth it, I changed my lower radiator hose so had to refill the cooling system, all I did was put my car on the slant of my driveway and put the funnel kit on the radiator filler neck, took me 25 minutes to bleed the system, I didn't even have to use the bleeder valve, I've used the kit for a long time and no overheating issues at all
So if I get that kit and raise the nose I just raise it and start the car? Because none of my heater lines are hooked up.
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Old 06-03-2012, 09:04 PM   #16
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Did you remove the heater core completely and just look the hoses?

Autozone thermostats and water pumps have a HIGH failure rate.

Save up the money and go oem.
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