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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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07-30-2011, 01:01 PM | #1 |
Leaky Injector
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Alright Zilvia, in desperate need of some knowledge.
Ok so to make a long story short. I need my car to run, it is now my dd, it did run just yesterday but died on me at a stop light (kinda sputtered then died) wouldnt start back up. left if over night, still wouldnt start in the morning, tried push starting it but would catch for a sec then die. when key starting it just cranks. what could be wrong? I need this thing up and running asap. Thanks in advance.
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07-30-2011, 03:08 PM | #8 |
Leaky Injector
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check the fuel pump wire at the pump for 12v with key on. Yes? Pump sucks. No? Check the fuses and relay.
And I know personally I keep about 15 spare relays of all types for Nissans on hand, so its an easy check to just swap a good one and and see if it works. |
07-30-2011, 03:13 PM | #9 |
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lol yeah check the fuel fump after you make sure there IS indeed fuel in the tank. put a gallon in it and try to start it. if no start have someone pound on the fuel tank with the palm of their hand HARD while you're trying to start it. if it didn't stard before and it starts then it's a fuel pump. good luck.
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07-31-2011, 11:21 AM | #13 |
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How mechanically inclined are you, will you be able to perform all the test required to find and repair the issue? If not and you try to tackle this you could end up spending moneys on random parts, that you should have but may not need just yet!
Ok It does sound like fuel, but it is a lot to the fuel system for one to say it's just the pump. check the line make sure they are correct, disconnect the rail feed line, place it in a bottle to test flow and maybe debris. If you've gotten this far you should know if the fuel pump relay and ecu are working correctly. put the feed line back disconnect the return line and place it in the bottle, there should be little or no flow. if you have full flow you may have a faulty fpr. Put the return line back. get some vise grips and place them on the return line, you don't need to full clamp down, but you could. turn the ignition to on pause a sec then turn to start. what happens doe the car start and run? if it runs remove the vice grips. I kinda got caught up in the fpr thing, but you get the point. testing and diagnosing could cost or shouldn't cost any money. They're more thing to check like injectors and whatnot so get to testing. comeback with you findings.
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07-31-2011, 12:27 PM | #14 |
Leaky Injector
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I took off a Walbro gss 341 and ordered an OE replacement (Airtex E8235) through a parts shop cuz i needed one fast, got the replacement this morning, only problem is, its a whole lot bigger and it doesnt have the quick disconnect for the terminals. I just need to know if it will still work lol.
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07-31-2011, 02:30 PM | #15 |
Leaky Injector
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Alright, here is what ive found. The fuel pump isnt getting any volts, so i checked the fuse and the replaced the relay. still isnt getting volts. so am i looking at a wiring problem? maybe the ignition switch? ECU? I checked with 20 DC current with a digi multimeter.
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07-31-2011, 02:59 PM | #18 |
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remove egi pump relay, looking into the relay socket jump pins 2 and 4
[1] [2] [3][4] Turn the key to on, if the pump primes it's the relay trigger from the ecu or the ecu that is bad. The pump will run till you turn the key to off so this is a temp fix but you could run your car like this, but the trigger is also used for the iacv i think. Do not send 12v down pin 1 ever. even by accident. for pin 1 test continuity to the ecu pin 104 should have constant tone, no breaking up. I think that would tell you that you need to either have the ecu repaired, replaced or do a temp fix such as triggering the relay via a switch or jumper the pins or whatever till the ecu is repaired or replaced
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LoverTechnologies "Half Broken Things!" Last edited by cotbu; 07-31-2011 at 03:07 PM.. Reason: FYI |
07-31-2011, 03:56 PM | #22 |
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key on? check the voltage on pins 2 and 4 of relay socket should be 12v or battery voltage.
doesn't seem like the pump is the issue.
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07-31-2011, 06:23 PM | #24 | |
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Quote:
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07-31-2011, 08:14 PM | #25 |
Leaky Injector
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Sorry man, wasnt dismissing you, just had plenty of fuel in the tank, and since the pump isnt even getting initial voltage from the quick disconnect im kinda figuring it isnt the pump
Also, is it pin 3 and 4 or 2 and 4? And one more thing for pin 1 test continuity to the ecu pin 104 should have constant tone, no breaking up. I think that would tell you that you need to either have the ecu repaired, replaced or do a temp fix such as triggering the relay via a switch or jumper the pins or whatever till the ecu is repaired or replaced[/QUOTE] how do i go about testing the continuity? |
07-31-2011, 08:34 PM | #26 | |
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If you use my diagram, lol. The pins 2 and 4 are tied together so it doesn't matter.
2 or 4 to pin 3 Quote:
You could make a self powered unit with like a AA battery.
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08-01-2011, 12:04 PM | #27 |
Leaky Injector
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Ok so i tested pin 2 and 4 and no voltage, I tested pins 3 and 4 and got close to 12v but it only happened once, tried testing it again and got no reading. Also tried jumping 3 to 4 but to no avail. still havnt ever got any volts back to the pump.
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08-01-2011, 12:14 PM | #28 |
Leaky Injector
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Also, I have not tested continuity to pin 1, reason being is that my fuse box is near the front of my engine bay and the ecu is on the passenger side floor board, thus the meter will not stretch that far.
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08-01-2011, 01:23 PM | #29 |
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You have wiring problems, but to eliminate the fuel pump, let's run a jumper wire from the battery to pin 3, of the fuelpump relay socket ur pump should run. Or you could check all the harness plugs and grounds, make sure they're good:-)
Sent from my highly tuned vibrant!
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