Toomuchboost12

alright so i have a code on my car its p1447 . i have resarched on this code and i know what to look for and replace etc but a friend of mine told me seeing how i am will eventually go to my turbo KA , you can just delete the EGR charcoal canister etc BUT my question is will i still have the CEL light on ? cause it drives me nuts . and lately i been having crappy mpg . so will i still have a cel light on if i block the egr ? thanks in advance guys

Kingtal0n

EGR improves your fuel economy. I would simply save up and do an sr swap, that way everything stays OEM and your car will be reliable and get great fuel economy.

Deleting emissions equipment is never a great idea in general. For instance PCV will help keep your oil cleaner and also improve fuel economy.
I'll admit it makes a huge mess under the hood, and is expensive to replace/repair. I usually recommend you coincide your sr20 swap around the general failure of multiple points of the OEM electronics under the hood, that way you "kill two birds" with one swap. One could easily spend $700 updating and replacing emission equipment, a large chunk of change you can avoid spending with the swap, and once you factor in the cost of turbocharging the KA... you would be saving money by replacing the engine. (and it will make more power reliably, last longer, get better fuel economy, and no more mess under the hood)

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5.3/4l80e/turbo 240sx playthrough:
https://tinyurl.com/turbo240

KAT-PWR

He's right. You could totally gamble and roll the dice with an sr swap. No a/c, expensive to do right (non ghetto swap harness) if you're into that kinda thing. Or you could read several of the very informative ka emission removal threads, and do it "properly" to your KA. Then you can replace headgasket pending a clean motor bill of health and make upwards of 300hp reliably (proper tune). Also cheap replacement motors.

Who wants that emission crap taking up all that space? Unless your state requires it at which point you should probably reconsider all together.

My major gripe is, you spend 1500+ to get a bare bones corner cut swap done. For that much you can do a nicely done t25 set up on a KA Enthalpy tune. Still have a/c. Oem wiring harness. Make more power than an sr per psi (displacement). Easily find replacement motors in a pinch. Parts from the corner store on hand. Etc.

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Toomuchboost12

Exactly why i want to turbo my KA lol all im looking for 270 ish anyway but back to this code did you do the egr removal on your KA ? . i mean my car isnt a daily driver but i drive the car maybe twice a week . weekend car basically . but will i still have the cel with the egr delete ? i cleaned the canister that had all the carbon pellets and stuff the value next to the canister and in the engine was all backed up too i cleaned them out with a air compressor . and bolted everything back to the way it was . i cleared the cel light hopefully it dosnt come back . but i am still giving the EGR delete a thought . after you delete it will you have a cel ? and i live in NY so emissions are anoying but there are ways toget around it .

Kingtal0n

My "major gripe is", the KA24DE will cost just as much to upgrade to turbocharger spec as a bone stock sr20det. Your stand-alone, injectors, turbocharger, manifold, will run more than $1500. And at the end of the day, if it fails, you now have a KA24DE specific stand-alone and manifold that will be more difficult to sell for full value. Don't even say ROM tune. And to ice the cake now you are doing the headgasket? And probably replacing the clutch with more KA specific parts? And fabricating intercooling plumbing? And the value of the car will not increase the same way it would if you had the sr20det under the hood.

And lets not forget tuning. dear lord, I would take an OEM tuned SR20DET on stock injectors any day over anything stand-alone tuned on a KA24DE, for many reasons, reason #1 being that the engine was never intended to be turbo so any timing map that any "tuner" throws into that ECU will be complete guess work.

I am not against 220RWHP T-25 SAFC 370cc KA24DE engines on stock head gaskets. thats a cheap reliable setup, despite the safc, because boost is low and the turbo is undersized. The T-25 would not hit 270rwhp, and even a T-28 would be at it's bleeding edge to do that, screaming replace me. And you cannot make that power with a SAFC either if you want it to live.

__________________
5.3/4l80e/turbo 240sx playthrough:
https://tinyurl.com/turbo240

waxball88

... Accidental

KAT-PWR

1 semi built motor
Thousands of miles
Several turbo set ups
Two injector set ups
3 different turbos
Blow thru/draw thru
Cams
All Enthalpy tunes. 400whp
Just to discredit that portion.
Regardless ka or sr to go over 300whp safely you need to open it up. There are parts to be upgraded...
This isn't 5 years ago... Kas have been done as much as srs.
As for the value comment. You think a Kat car with ac isn't going to sell faster than an sr car with no ac? Or be worth more? This obviously is personal opinion... But it has truth to it.
You're doing the clutch on either when upping the boost...
All the other specific parts you mention are also readily available from MANY vendors for the same price as sr parts...
I will apologize as I've been drinking my post was misleading, I wasn't trying to imply that with those specific small turbo set ups you could push that power but merely stating that approaching the 300whp mark on either motor is "doable"

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Kingtal0n

Well this good ole' debate goes back for years. I've always been the SR kind of guy, mainly because the SR cars just sell for more and look cleaner under the hood and are more reliable. The benefit of having all OEM parts is highly appealing to me, for I love to drive my car every day to school and is the only car I own so there is no room for mistakes.

I am curious why you keep saying no A/C. My sr has A/C as do many others. It is not difficult to keep the A/C on an sr20det car, you only need to weld 1 or 2 lines (only 1 line on my car needed a weld) $30 weld, and fill the system with R134 and its done.

Now as to stock internal sr20 engines... they will easily support 320-350rwhp reliably for years on all stock internals. I would say the breaking point (reliability issues) occur around 375+ BHP as the pistons seem to be a weak point, especially when the tune is poor. No fingers pointed here, but ROM tunes are not ideal. take that for what its worth, but being a tuner myself I guess it is easy to talk the talk. My car is on a power-FC as we speak and I have plenty of A/C and great fuel economy and 150,000+ miles on the engine, for what it's worth.

The KA is a great engine, but anything can have money thrown at it and make it pretty and/or fast. The key here I am trying to drill into everybody's head is that the S14 Sr20det model with all stock trim, including clutch, hits this guys goal of 250~rwhp right out of the box, with all stock components for a truly reliable daily and requires zero modification. The old addage KISS comes to mind.

__________________
5.3/4l80e/turbo 240sx playthrough:
https://tinyurl.com/turbo240

Toomuchboost12

By No means do i hate on SR guys just thought id put that out there and get back to my question lol . There are 6 second Built SR24s with VVL heads which are awesome but theres also a 7 second KA24 . i just dont have a SR20 swap in mind if i ever swap simply because its your typical 240 swap , granted the motor came stock in the car originally . we in the states unfortunaly didnt get it . so we resort to better / different set ups .

Kingtal0n

Ah see, but those are different animals. I would never build an sr20 OR ka24 for any real high performance application (unless it was to meet a specific class/criterion). To me these engines are great for daily drivers, 200-300 horses and 30mpg, simplicity, easy to work on and maintain, but by no means would I try to squeeze either one of them, especially on oem internals for more than that. The dollar per horsepower ratio starts getting out of a college student's budget pretty fast.

The minute you say 350+BHP I think 2jz or Lsx. Those engines, with OEM internals, are more suited to the 400-500 BHP range in a daily driver.


I think the realistic situation is whether or not you want to own a car with a higher percentage chance of breaking down. If I had to choose between a modified engine and a non-modified engine... well I think you know which I would choose and why. Especially if both are producing similar numbers to fun factor ratio.

__________________
5.3/4l80e/turbo 240sx playthrough:
https://tinyurl.com/turbo240

GreinTime

I can't believe not one of you has made mention of the fact that he is talking about the EVAP canister while talking about his EGR valve. Two totally different systems, with two totally different outcomes. Deleting your EVAP stuff without a tune, or ability to shut those codes off will cause your check engine light to come on, and stay on, no matter how many times you clear your codes. Deleting your EGR on an OBD2 car will keep the check engine light on as well. Anything emissions related on an OBD2 car will cause the CEL to illuminate, and stay on until it sees a pass on that monitor on 3 consecutive trips.

Toomuchboost12

Thank you my good man ! Lol

dwnshft2drft

I deleted all my OBDII S14 EGR stuff and no check engine light for 9,000 miles. As long as you keep all the sensors plugged in.

miswuevos

Mmm

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