zooopreme

Hey guys, I'm looking to get some 100% correct information here. I don't need guys replying with a guess or inaccurate info. I did research and I am making a thread based on my findings.

So here's my dilemma: stock KA, factory 5 speed, still has clutch damper.

On my way to school, my clutch had little to no pressure. I was able to get in and out of gears though. I was forced to deal with it to and from school.

As soon as I got home, I checked for leaks, none were found but the master was near empty. I checked the carpet, I checked the slave and master, I even checked the clutch hard line--nothing. However, on the master, the push rod and clevis were the only thing that had any type of fluid on it (not sure if that's normal--I'm leaning towards no). Wanted to see if there was any leaking so I put in some DOT 3 fluid and the pedal regained some feel and still no leaks. And now I'm stumped.

What could be the problem?

What I was thinking of doing was going through the process of elimination starting with the slave/master and even converting to a SS line. But before I even think about purchasing anything I have some questions regarding the research that I've done.

Questions are bolded:

1.) According to this post from a very old thread, you're supposed to match both master and slave bore. (Is this true?) According to that post and several others, '91-'94 S13 bore size for the master was 5/8". But on Courtesy Parts and other vendors, they only sell 3/4" and 11/16" bore sized slaves. What combo should I use for my '93 to achieve a stock feel?

2.) I'm partial to Agency Power SS line especially if I kink the hard line, has anybody had any problems of leaking? Any other brands that are reputable and long lasting?

3.) I usually go with OEM/dealership for important parts but I've seen aftermarket stuff like Exedy, Dorman, and FRSport and they're a bit on the budget friendly side, any experience with these brands in terms of master cylinder? Dorman is the closest price to OEM for master that I may just spend the extra >$20 but if it's just as good as OEM then I'll just use it.

4.) Experience using Nabco branded stuff? This may sound stupid but I feel more comfortable about purchasing branded stuff at dealerships than purchasing the same branded stuff from a merchant/vendor. So in this case, I'd rather purchase a Nabco slave from the dealership than a Nabco slave from CP or FRSport.

Anyway, I am stumped and I would like some help from those more knowledgeable than I am. Thank you for your time.

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brndck

Nabco is oem quality. Whether you buy it from the dealer or frsport or rock auto it's gonna be the same thing.

It's recommended that you change slave and master as a pair because if one goes out, it's likely that the other is heavily worn also.

Even if you don't see external leakage it may be leaking from the back of the master, into the vacuum booster.

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mechanicalmoron

If you had fluid on the pushrod, you can be pretty certain the master is leaking.

*edit* smell it and make sure it's brake fluid, and not oil or something, before doing any replacing.

zooopreme

Oh okay, cool. I'll go with whichever is cheaper.

Yeaaah, I kinda figured.

Anyway, if anybody has the answers to the following questions, contribute your input, please!

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zooopreme

So after about an hour or so of research, I answered my first question but the info from the post I initially referenced to in the original post is false.

91+ uses 3/4 slaves and all S13's use 5/8 masters, found here and here. Even found threads on FreshAlloy to back this up.

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blkvrtswp

I've had the AP clutch line in use for 4+ years - never had any problems.

zooopreme

Cool thanks!

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