azsr20det

So i have a 91 SR redtop swapped hatch thats been sitting in a storage unit for years, well I finally towed it home and want to bring it back to life. It ran great before but its been sitting without being started for probably around 5-6 years. OBV it needs a new battery but I figured id start by flushing out all the fluids so im wondering what brands of fluid the experts here recommend?

Like I mentioned prior its a 91 S13 hatch with a SR20DET redtop and its got a t28 s15 turbo on it.

basically im wondering what brake fluid, coolant, oil, and powersteering fluid I should get and how much im going to need to completely replace the fluids as whats in there is super old and probably nasty af at this point.

Also I remember the fuel gauge not showing how much fuel is actually in the tank, I know the previous owner upgraded the pump to a walboro, but im fairly certain the gauge isnt reading because the little floater that attaches to the arm in the tank came off so the arm does not move up and down so the car doesnt know how much fuel is in the tank. Was wondering if there is any company that makes an aftermarket replacment for it or if anyone knows what to search in order to find the part. Ive tried 240 fuel level sensor, 240 fuel tank floater, etc but no luck. part of me kind of wants to replace the whole assembly but not sure where to go about getting it. so any help would be appreciated.

I had bought the car with a freshly rebuilt sr back in like 2010 and the inside and outside of the car looked like straight up crap so I spent countless hours and dollars bringing the visuals of the car up to par with the motor, repainted it inside and out (after scraping out all the sound deadening), fixed up the inside, (the dash was cracked to hell, completely redid the dash, shifter bezel, gauge bezel, and glove box door in custom carbon fiber, its beautiful) replaced the seats, shift knob, ,shift boot, did a quick release steering setup with nardi wheel, the list goes on and on

oh
Also i was wondering if anyone knew where to get a plug for the massive hole in the trunk near the spare tire well? the back of the car is gutted and has no trim panels past the backseat area

any help would be appreciated

FaLKoN240

No need to reinvent the wheel here.

Drain all the old fluids. Replace them with whatever you can find at the parts store.

Siphon out the old gas, put 5 gallons of fresh gas in there and replace the battery.

The fuel carrier shouldn't be too hard to find a replacement for. I'd recommend getting an Aeromotive after my Walbro shit on me after less than 3 years of usage.

Props to you for investing in the car and storing it instead of selling it. Getting replacement parts for these cars has become pretty laborious and overpriced.

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azsr20det

ive looked everywhere for the fuel float and cant find one, but maybe im looking for the wrong thing, and id like to put forth a little more effort than "whatever i can find at the parts store"

im sure theres a specific grade oil that works best in this car for one, the other fluids i can probably get away with whatever but oil specifically I need to know what grade is recommended for a turbocharged sr

95_S14

Pull the plugs and spray wd40 or some type of light oil into the cylinder walls and turn it over without the plugs or fuel so you don't damage the side walls

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FaLKoN240

You can literally google what the recommended factory oil weight is for an SR20.

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nisileighty

Valvoline VR-1 20w-50. SR’s love that thick high zinc shit. Coolant is as easy as that gallon jug of Prestone at Walmart. Trans fluid should always be Redline MT-90.

Get 7-8 quarts of VR-1. The three extra are to flush out the old shit.

I think as far as the fuel floater goes, you can just replace the entire fuel sending unit. Shouldn’t be more than $100.

gangly

Keep in mind these figures are referencing a 1989 240sx with a KA24E. So some things won't apply to you.

mr.nismo.

To piggy back on some other things said:

Put a cap of oil in each cylinder to recoat the side walls. Take off the valve cover, and put assembly lube on the cams, it's going to take a second to get oil circulating around. Double check the chain tensioner, don't want it jumping after sitting so long.

Use 0w30 weight oil, you need it to circulate as fast as possible through the engine.

Use whatever coolant/brake fluid/atf/gear oil to flush everything out.

Afterwards, put whatever fluid you find to be good. Everyone has their opinions of what fluids to use (myself included). There's plenty of good options.

You can grab a pump assembly off zilvia for sure.

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jimcfl

Since brake fluid gets moisture in it, it’s likely the brake and clutch cylinders have some corrosion inside, which will destroy the seals, so you should expect to replace those soon.

Also the organic material on the clutch disc may disintegrate in just a few miles.