ModulusTwo

I'm sorry, but I do not know what the part number is. There was no casting or number on the flange.
I figure'd it would be much cheaper if I could've found it from a retail store, rather than custom ordering from D.S.S.

If I can get more information from D.S.S. , I'll post more information about it.

Sr20-Vert

So I’ll be able to use the speed sensor in diff for my s14 cluster. Can you explain what else is needed or how I do that

brndck

you use the existing abs sensor and something like a Dakota box to generate a signal that the cluster will see as a speedometer input

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Jretana

I am a little late on the conversation, but I just did the same swap, and my axle angle is very off, just bought the GKTech splins to lower the axles, did you have the same problem?, if so how did you did it

brndck

what gktech part? how does it lower the axle?

when you say "your axle angle is very off"..... is the diff too high? too low? too far forward? please be more specific. Photos help a lot.

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Jretana

The differential sits lower, so the axles point upwards, the GKTech drop spindles lowered the axles 40mm, I read people having the issue but no solutions, so want to know what people have done to correct the angle and get axle line more straight, sorry tried to download some pics but didn't work

foreverdeath

These adapter bushings are no good, lowering the diff approximately 2 inchs from the OE postion making huge angles on lowered cars. The only proper way to run a 350z diff is to mod the subframe.

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TheRealSy90

My friend, drop knuckles DO NOT move the axles. You cannot move the axles outside of the hub center, which is always in the middle of the wheel.
Drop knuckles only move the suspension arm pickup points...

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brndck

my first suggestion would be to raise the car.

or raise the subframe.

or chop the subframe and raise the diff.

my next question is, considering the axle angle of a stock height 240, then consider the fact that we lower these cars 4-6" or more, how is 1-2" height difference making a huge impact? i'm not sure I understand your problem entirely.

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Jretana

Yes I asked myself the same questions when we drop the cars, the problem apparently comes with the 350z diff, I really appreciate the input, definitely I am cutting the subframe to raise the diff to OEM high. Thank you everybody

foreverdeath

The only issue with the high angles is that it puts extra load on the CV joints making them more prone to breaking under load and increases drivetrain drag. This is a big issue with tripod joints like 240 axles but IDK if it applies to rzeppa style like the 350z axles.

t66-240

It's not the joints that break, rather the 29 spline (30mm) output shaft of the axles that break. The more the angle is off the more stress is put on the shafts.

t66-240

That's a s13 subframe correct?

foreverdeath

Yes I started actully started mounting the diff recently. I didnt know it's mainly the shafts that fail on my KAT on the driver side one of the tripod joints was starting to break thru the cup.

t66-240

Cool. are you using the R51 cover or the Z33? Either way can you give me the measurement from the top of the subframe to the cover bolt(s)?

Thanks!

foreverdeath

R51 yeah I pm you messurements went I get a chance.

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t66-240

If I'm looking at this right ones in this pic, it looks like they are center line with the large hole in the center?

foreverdeath

It's close I used a j30 cover to find the drivers side hole then just measure for the 2nd one that the r51 uses

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TheRealSy90

So now we know the 2-bolt Pathfinder R51 cover bolts to the z33 differential. Good stuff.

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brndck

very good news, now too bad no one makes an aftermarket R51 diff cover.
My z1 z33 diff cover is very nice, and an excellent price, but i'm still wary about only 1 mounting bolt.

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t66-240

The R51 cover is finned and nice. Also the diffs are plentiful and cheap. I found many for $75.... a lot less than an aftermarket cover.

foreverdeath

R51 cover is is basically an upgrade to the z33 cover. Heavily finned and 2 bolts. And you use the the r51 axles... jk but those axles flanges are huge and they run the z32 TT outer spline I'm fairly sure. Stubs do swap out with z33.

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foreverdeath

The holes are 2 3/8" from the top lip. Ended up replacing the entire back to ensure rigidity.

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TheRealSy90

Awesome stuff man. How much to do up another one and send it to me haha.

You using regular z33 stubs and axles or did you get the z33 stubs shortened?

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foreverdeath

Gona shoot for stock parts. If axles are to long which I know they are close Ill just get dual caliper adapters for an extra 1/4". I'll think about it I used material is had laying around 1/4 plate, 3/16 flat stock and 1/8 plate from random projects. I do know how to do it right tho now. Had a few challenges making it.

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t66-240

foereverdeath, did you figure this all out?

Did you use an LSD or still open diff?

Thanks!

foreverdeath

Everything is in andready to test drive just waiting on my driveshaft which I had to get extended an inch. It should be done sometime this week then it's down to alingment and seeing if can get the rear tires to still fit after widening the rear +9mm with GKTECK RLCAs. Tire fitment is really close and I'm not quite happy with axle free play but well see what happens soon.

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TheRealSy90

The Z axles definitely have way less in-out plunge than 240 axles. Just a side effect of the CV design. Tripods can move way more than the rzeppa.

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foreverdeath

Drove it yesterday briefly no issues or weird noise from the rear but I didn't far after one my front hub bearings started making noise from swapping the knuckles.

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