NEW! 350z diff to S14/S15 subframe swap bushings!
 

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/01...g?v=1484072333

UPDATED DESIGN! I took customer feedback and made the new ones easier to install. This design has a much larger lead in to help alignment. The last little bit is pressed on so there is no clunking or other issues.

Introducing a bolt in way to add a stronger 350z/370z/G35/G37 differential to your existing s14/s15 subframe! No cutting, welding or fabrication.

What are they?

Three(3) bushings that are precision CNC machined from 6061-T6 aluminum and then anodized to a MIL-8625F finish. The bushings are engineered to place the differential in the center of the subframe and maintain the proper factory driveshaft angle. The bushing kit is only able to be used with s14/s15 subframes or other Nissan subframes which use the 2 larger diff mounts on the rear cover.

What do they do?

The bushings allow you to drop in a stronger and cheaper Z/G differential into your s14/s15 subframe. Previous the only other way to do this was to cut and weld but there is NO cutting or welding required for this swap.

Benefits:

-Stronger, newer and more readily available Z/G differential

-Wider range of ratios available, OEM and aftermarket

-Ability to use larger and stronger 350z axles

-Better matched ratios those doing 350z transmission swap

-Uses STOCK 240sx hubs, works with 4 and 5 lug cars.

-Potential to use 350z speed sensor built into diff for actual wheel speed.



What is needed for this swap?

- Maverick Motorsports Z/G conversion bushings

- 350z/370z/G35/G37 differential, avoid the G37 AT diff because it has a different driveshaft flange

- 350z/G35 axles

- Driveshaft made to your length and drivetrain setup(not available here).

Need to know:

Due to the large variety of rear knuckles, arms, alignments please make sure the axles are not over compressed or over stretched. Failing to do so will cause premature breaking of the axle and other driveline components.

ORDERING:

https://www.maverick-motorsports.com...rsion-bushings

very cool, but will z33 diff with z33 axles in s14 subframe (with stock s14 rear LCA and knuckle) cause binding? or will you have to run extended LCA or zero camber in the rear to compensate?

My question is the same on here then facebook

Is the flange (where the driveshaft bolt) of the diff at the same position compare to a s chassis diff ? Open diff s14 is what i have right now ... im scared my carbon driveshaft will be to long if i go this route

Looks like a cool product! I haven't seen this before. Kudos for doing something different! Information on axle compatibility between stock S14 and stock Z33 would be helpful. If the length needs to be altered you could offer that as an additional service. Customers could send you their axles and you could have a x-week turn around time. The driveshaft is something else you could offer on a "made to order" basis since people swap everything under the sun into these cars. If you aren't set up to build/modify those parts perhaps you could partner with a shop that does.

People like easy when it comes to installs so if you could offer the other parts needed you could pick up some extra business off the additional parts for those interested in your innovative solution. Good luck with your sales!

Why can't you just use a 300zx diff with 350z half shafts to achieve the same effect?
in a s13/s14

Attempted to install these on S14 subframe last night / Z33 diff

I understand that most bushings should be a press fit, however, since the bolt holes are eccentric, its very difficult to press the bushings in while having them properly located. Once they're in, there's no way of rotating.

They should be more of a slip fit, like PBM's bushings.

The Z32 Differential is a R200 just like the stock s13 differential, hence why the viscous diff and their R&P are direct swaps.
The Z33 diff is a R230 I believe, has readily available R&P swaps and more LSD options on top of having a stronger R&P and axles.

Z33 is not a r230, it is still a r200. The rear bushing did not fit on my 05 g35 auto trans. the knurl on the stud is too large for the bushing how it was machined and I had to modify it. Also like Jorgs said, they are a press fit and I have no idea how you can line these up properly while pressing them in, not to mention I hogged the shit out of my diff flanges on the front just to make it start to slip in for the first part( how these are machined).
Also I have a little bit of camber, but my axles are 100% compressed with the diff just sitting in the subframe without the mounts( hardly off from where it would sit) So it looks like extended rlca are a must, atleast for me.:facepalm:

My bad.

Could you measure the distance between the snout mounting holes then make a U shaped bracket with similar bolts. Slip bushings on bracket then hold up to differential and twist them until everything lines and press in

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk

That could definitely work for the front, but I think I am still going to take .001" off of them on a lathe so I can get them out again. The reason I want to do this is I have an auto diff (3.3) which I am going to weld because there isn't a aftermarket lsd (1.5 or 2 way) for it, atleast that I have found. So once I pick up a manual(3.5) diff and get a lsd I can swap that in.

Yup.


The bushings & diff ears are +/-.002" of each other.

Its too tight. Gonna machine these as well.

Pretty silly to have to machine something that was ≈$170 to begin with

What driveshaft do you use with this diff setup?

this is + cool.:hsdance:

Thank you everyone for all the feedback and the orders! This was the first batch that went out and once things get out in the wild I have more and more people giving good feedback so thank you for that.

The next batch will have a small change to make the install easier and more straightforward. Functionally it will stay the same and still work like it should.

As always I appreciate all the feedback and if you guys come up with anything please let me know. It's impossible for me to 100% test every case and the results you guys give help me make a better product.

Did you happen to try freezing them before trying to fit them in? Just curious to see if that would make enough of a difference.

Im not home to try and see how much shrinkage you would get from room temp vs freezing temp. I will do this when I get home and post results unless somebody beats me to it.

also - does the 240sx rear driveshaft flange mate up perfectly to the 350z one since they are R200's?

I tried but did not do anything, granted I did not heat up the diff. The driveshaft hub centric ring fits onto the diff but the holes on the diff are spread out farther resulting in needing to drill new holes in between the old ones. I had my bushings machined down .001, not quite sure if they fit yet since I have not got them back but will update once I do.

What else do you need to do this swap?

Any update on these bushings. Website hasn't been updated since February.

I also like info on this.

very interested in this. This looks like a good alternative too,
#/f/showthread.php?t=267957

Anybody got updates on these? Pics and fitting info would be great :D

Anybody got any updates on these yet? Are they easier to install and get em lined up

I'm curious of the differential height and angle when installed with these. Does the differential sit down lower in the subframe now? Or is it angled downwards with the front lower than the rear? I only ask because you used to have to chop the front mounts and move them up higher to run these.

Is this thing on?? Any updates Maverick??

I ordered a set of these probably back around February. I finally got around to installing these on my subframe and 350Z diff.
It seemed pretty straight forward.

I dinged up the rear bushing pretty bad because I didn't interface the hammer and the bushing. I placed 1/8 plate steel on the bushings when I hammered them into the diff, which made it look a little nicer.

I'm currently compiling video clips and will have an install "guide" on youtube in the next week or so.

Only issue I'm running into right now, is getting the axles put in.
On the LH (US driver side) axle, I had to compress it all the way, and the bearings and grease pack popped out the back of the axle. I need to pack it back up and try it again tonight.
I have adjustable arms on my rear end, so I'll try extending all of them before trying to put in the axles again.

I should have it all assembled and back on the car tonight.

Donor 350Z Subframe for diff and axles.
http://i836.photobucket.com/albums/z...psyenem7qg.jpg

Really beat the hell out of this back bushing.

http://i836.photobucket.com/albums/z...psqjbuzoqm.jpg

http://i836.photobucket.com/albums/z...psss6glr5i.jpg

http://i836.photobucket.com/albums/z...psbg7pbp9r.jpg

http://i836.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps85xdmshf.jpg


More to update tonight.

Hey did u get installed yet bro

Yes, I have it all installed!
I made a post the other day, but it said it was awaiting moderator approval.
I'll see if this allows me to post pictures of it.

I beat the hell out of the rear bushing trying to get it in. The ones on the diff, I interfaced with a plate of steel.

Axle was a pain to get in the driver side, so I'd highly recommend having adjustable arms to get it to fit well.

I ordered a new flange for my driveshaft because I wasn't confident in my drilling of the pinion flangehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...91f8139ebc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a947d88d76.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b8b51286db.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2d293dc14e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1467cae2e1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3277f4bab7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8bcc496ded.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f132c3416c.jpg

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Do you happen to have the part number for the new flange?

Found the part it’s a spicer 2-2-2029