Head Gasket Installation - SR20DET - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

s14unimog · 10-30-2009, 12:41 PM

Since it seems there is limited, and sometimes contradicting, information regarding a head gasket installation; I felt I would share my pictures and experiences in hopes of constructing a helpful/resourceful thread.

Since head gasket removal was covered quite well by an individual on NICOclub, I will just provide the link to that thread.

DIY: SR20DET Head Removal by Mrzabala: SR20DET Forum (rear-drive): Nissan Forums / Infiniti Forums - NICOclub

Depending on what your needs are for your particular project, your repairs or upgrades, may differ from mine. As some of you may know, and for the ones who don't http://zilvia.net/f/engine-tech/2777...ur-screws.html , my engine recently ate a throttle body screw and so needed some repairs. I had the head decked, cleaned, JWT valve guides installed, new seals, compression zones checked, head assembled, and a missing cam cap replaced/fitted.

Before you get started, its a good idea to go ahead and bleed your hydraulic lifters; its very easy and only takes a minute. The lifter removes just by pulling on the exposed end and is located under the outside leg of the rocker arm.

Submerge the lifter in a container of new oil and depress the check valve located inside, at the base, the lifter. the FSM lists the use of a "suitable tool" so I used an appropriate sized allen wrench. with the check valve depressed go ahead and compress the top of the lifter until you feel it bottom out; you can release the check valve at this point. You should see air bubbles if its needed and once you're done, the lifter shouldn't compress anymore. Repeat if necessary.

Next you want to go a head and clean the block surface as well as you can. I used a window scrapper with a new razor to remove the majority and then a dremal with a some what nonabrasive wheel, you don't want to create low spots. Use good judgment and just clean it. After its clean go ahead and apply a continuous bead of gray liquid gasket to the front timing cover area. Remember that a little goes a long way, so don't get carried away with a 0.250" bead.

Install head gasket. This step is somewhat debated, I choose to use Copper Spray for added tack on the two surfaces but I know that you don't necessary have too. As it was explained to me, it can't hurt but could help and I have no experience to argue otherwise.

Next apply another continuous bead on top of the gasket around the front timing cover area. My understanding for this is only to prevent weeping from the front cover.

After you drop the head on, its now time to install the head studs. I am using ARP hardware so here is the information to know. If you are reusing head studs, its important to verify that they have not stretched. The area of stretch is usually in the threaded area of the stud its self, so look for differences in diameter. The O.A. length should be 6.600" +/- 0.010". Replace them if it exceeds this tolerance.

To install them, you use a standard (not metric) allen wrench and thread them all the way down into the block. You need only to snug them down, no torque spec's req'd. DO NOT USE bolt smoothing compound on block threads!

Install all 12pt nuts and washers with bolt smoothing compound. From my research, it seems there are two versions of head studs. Apparently, ARP has redone the kit for the SR20DET and now requires 105ft/lbs. I have an older kit which requires 80ft/lbs; this will be the 3rd time I've reused these. Refer to the FSM for exact torque sequence, or just remember: tighten from the inside out and loosen from the outside in. Tighten them in stages and let your last torque set be your biggest jump. I did...

25ft/lbs - 55ft/lbs - 80ft/lbs

Don't forget to reinstall the 4 remaining, 10mm socket, screws shown removed in the thread listed above.

The next step is to reinstall your mechanical timing assembly, set your timing chain tensioner and reinstall your CAS @ 15deg BTDC. The FSM calls for you to separate the cam sprockets from their corresponding shafts but its not necessary to install them. Make sure you have the dots at the silver links and the crank still at the second mark from the left.

After all of this is done, and after rotating the assembly nothing binds, reinstall your intake manifold and associate components and the same for the exhaust side. I hope this was helpful...

Please add your experiences or comments. I'll let you know if something doesn't work out right...

Tearlessj · 10-30-2009, 01:28 PM

OK, now I have always heard that you HAVE to get your head and blocked decked to use a metal headgasket. Anyone know this for sure?

Good write up for sure though. +1!

s14unimog · 10-30-2009, 01:31 PM

I would say for sure on the head, especially since it usually warps long before the block does. Mine was merely surfaced, it was within FSM tolerances. You can always do the straight edge and shim pack test to be sure.

240sxfamily · 10-30-2009, 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tearlessj

OK, now I have always heard that you HAVE to get your head and blocked decked to use a metal headgasket. Anyone know this for sure?

Good write up for sure though. +1!

yeah same. people have been telling me that but im using the copper spray for an extra seal.

let5l1de · 10-30-2009, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s14unimog

I would say for sure on the head, especially since it usually warps long before the block does. Mine was merely surfaced, it was within FSM tolerances. You can always do the straight edge and shim pack test to be sure.

Nice writeup!

The head generally seals to the block just fine (I do recommend resurface/deck) providing everything is very clean and stright. ARP hardware is highly recommended when using a MLS Type HeadGasket. Stock old SR head bolts will stretch... PERIOD. The problem with improper MLS HG installations are typically found at the front cover mating surfaces. Watch for leaks...

~mario

edit:

Quote:

Originally Posted by 240sxfamily

yeah same. people have been telling me that but im using the copper spray for an extra seal.

Why not...

Old Time Engine Builders used to spray a light coat of paint onto the headgasket to help promote sealing of water/oil passages.

~m

s14unimog · 10-30-2009, 01:54 PM

^ yeah that is a concern of mine, I have another SR powered car I picked up from a guy and its weeping from the front cover...what a bitch. This is my first head gasket install so I hope everything works out.

Pure_JDM · 10-30-2009, 02:00 PM

ditto^... mine's weeping there as well, so a new looks in the near future for me.

240sxfamily · 10-30-2009, 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s14unimog

^ yeah that is a concern of mine, I have another SR powered car I picked up from a guy and its weeping from the front cover...what a bitch. This is my first head gasket install so I hope everything works out.

So then the spray does seal it more properly? My head is decked and stuff but the block isn't.

s14unimog · 10-30-2009, 02:05 PM

The Copper spray is ONLY a tack spray for the head gasket its self. The Grey Silicone is for the front seal and prevents the oil weeping

I have talked to a number of different professional engine builders and the consensus is to USE copper spray.

let5l1de · 10-30-2009, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 240sxfamily

So then the spray does seal it more properly? My head is decked and stuff but the block isn't.

The copper spray will help seal the inconsistencies or very slight imperfections that a metal gasket will not.

MLS type HG's are exceptional for hi boost apps but are unforgiving. Use a high performance Fel-Pro HG when you can, epically for beginners...

~m

let5l1de · 10-30-2009, 02:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s14unimog

The Copper spray is ONLY a tack spray for the head gasket its self. The Grey Silicone is for the front seal and prevents the oil weeping

I have talked to a number of different professional engine builders and the consensus is to USE copper spray.

The tack spray is to seal as well... I am an engine builder.

~m

s14unimog · 10-30-2009, 02:15 PM

^ Right, only to help the head gasket seal not prevent oil weeping from the front cover. I am using the Cosworth MLS b/c I run low boost @ 15psi and high boost @ 25psi . I dyno'd 394rwhp @ ~17psi, it ran great until the screw was eaten; that was about 300 miles after tunning.

240sxfamily · 10-30-2009, 02:18 PM

so shall i use RTV on the front cover piece? so it will seal that as well?

let5l1de · 10-30-2009, 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s14unimog

^ Right, only to help the head gasket seal not prevent oil weeping from the front cover.

Did you use any sealant on the headgasket between the timing chain cover & head? If so, what did you use.

~m

EDIT:

looked at the pics... It's grey sealant with no copper spray.

This is good for most novice builders since it does seal larger imperfections much better. I may or may not use the grey sealant (always use coppers spay) between the front cover & head depending on machine work performed and type of build. If you slap a MLS HG on without kissing the block and cover, you will almost certainly need a thicker grey sealant because of imperfections at the cover to block mating surface

~m

s14unimog · 10-30-2009, 02:22 PM

yeah, see the pictures? there is only one timing chain cover, we're talking SR20 here (noticing your avatar)

let5l1de · 10-30-2009, 02:32 PM

Sry for my lost train of thought... Cover and head... One more reason why less leaks should be prominent for SR front cover/head....

The area I'm concerned with on either KA or SR is the squareness of the top of the timing cover and block.

VNG704 · 10-30-2009, 02:47 PM

Just some FYI:

I used VW ARP head studs sold by frsport.com. The reason they gave me was, it's slightly longer and will make up for thicker head gaskets. It fits and holding fine on my SR. Tip, when lubing the head studs, don't get any on the ends that go into the block. If you do, the lube will not compress and you'll get inaccurate torques. Meaning keep the lube on the threads.

s14unimog · 10-30-2009, 02:49 PM

^ good point! I only used it on the top. Bolt smoothing compound should ONLY be used on threads that are NOT blind projection.

let5l1de · 10-30-2009, 02:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VNG704

Just some FYI:

I used VW ARP head studs sold by frsport.com. The reason they gave me was, it's slightly longer and will make up for thicker head gaskets. It fits and holding fine on my SR. Tip, when lubing the head studs, don't get any on the ends that go into the block. If you do, the lube will not compress and you'll get inaccurate torques. Meaning keep the lube on the threads.

VW as in 1.8L, available in a few different diameters as well.

~m

HYPNOTIK · 10-30-2009, 05:41 PM

Someone mentioned a Fel Pro HG and I've been considering using one as well. Does anyone have any first hand experience with a fel pro on a SR? Good, bad?

ericb382 · 10-30-2009, 10:04 PM

I called apexi (since I was using an apexi HG) before I installed mine and asked if they recomend copper spray/RTV. They said no to both.

The way I look at it, the only time you need RTV around the front cover is if you haven't had the block and front cover decked together. If both your block and head have been resurfaced, no need for copper spray. If you've taken a straight edge to them (not freshly machined) and they are good, copper spray.

I also heard contradicting stories as to whether or not it was necessary to retorque head studs after heat cycling a metal HG. I called ARP for this (as I was using their studs,) they said yes. After your first heat cycle go through, break each headstud loose, and retorque. One at a time.

I'm sure some people will disagree with me on my outlook on copper spray and whether it's worth re-torquing, but I like to get my recomendations directly from the manufacturers. Yes, I know, many people get away without retorquing, but it takes maybe an hour. Why not have the added security.

let5l1de · 10-31-2009, 12:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ericb382

I called apexi (since I was using an apexi HG) before I installed mine and asked if they recomend copper spray/RTV. They said no to both.

Many MLS HG Manufactures actually recommend no spray or rtv due to possibly hindering the ability to seal properly. Another example is Cometic. Cometic Gasket Inc. also recommends a dry install due to the fact that a .001" thick viton rubber seal is bonded to the outer metal layers.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ericb382

The way I look at it, the only time you need RTV around the front cover is if you haven't had the block and front cover decked together. If both your block and head have been resurfaced, no need for copper spray. If you've taken a straight edge to them (not freshly machined) and they are good, copper spray.

I generally support this theory. So many people just buy the MLS type HeadGaskets and install without reading or ignoring the proper procedures for installation.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ericb382

I also heard contradicting stories as to whether or not it was necessary to retorque head studs after heat cycling a metal HG. I called ARP for this (as I was using their studs,) they said yes. After your first heat cycle go through, break each headstud loose, and retorque. One at a time.

I also generally agree with re-torquing the bolts or studs after the initial full heat cycle. Again, people disregard instructions or they are too lazy to perform this re-torque procedure.This can be an engine saving step that doesn't take very long to perform.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ericb382

I'm sure some people will disagree with me on my outlook on copper spray and whether it's worth re-torquing, but I like to get my recomendations directly from the manufacturers. Yes, I know, many people get away without retorquing, but it takes maybe an hour. Why not have the added security.

Factory recommendations is where I start as well, but all too often we run into situations the factory respectfully have never fully addressed. Seek advice from quality engine builders familiar with your build combined with MFG recommendations and your best judgment.

~m

s14unimog · 11-02-2009, 07:03 AM

I think there are a few different ways to complete a head gasket installation and I think they change based on what kind of gasket you use. I was also advised from one of my information sources to re-torque them. He also recommended I paint the 12pt nut and stud so that I can see how many rotations I actually pick up; its not necessary to paint them, but it shows you the difference.

As for the discrepancy between copper spray and liquid gasket on the timing cover area. I think the copper spray is optional, but as it was explained to me, "it can't hurt but it could help" so I choose to go that route. As for the liquid gasket, I don't think its optional. The FSM clearly indicated that it IS necessary for the installation and we all know, this would have considered perfect parts being installed; enough reason for me.

ericb382 · 11-02-2009, 09:53 AM

But the FSM is assuming you are using a stock HG. Once you switch to a metal HG, you should use the specs designated by the mfg of the HG.

s14unimog · 11-02-2009, 01:07 PM

Correct, but consider the differences of the two head gaskets and the specific location in question. Would you honestly put that back together without liquid gasket? Especially when considering the sealing issues associated with a MLS type head gasket when compared to an OEM one.

ericb382 · 11-03-2009, 05:47 AM

If the block and front cover were decked together like they are supposed to be, yes. I didn't have any problems with mine leaking....

s14unimog · 11-04-2009, 09:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ericb382

If the block and front cover were decked together like they are supposed to be, yes.

I can't agree with you. The FSM lists for you to use it and it would have considered a perfect decking surface between the two surfaces. I'm glad yours isn't leaking though.

rc1honda · 11-04-2009, 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tearlessj

OK, now I have always heard that you HAVE to get your head and blocked decked to use a metal headgasket. Anyone know this for sure?

Good write up for sure though. +1!

I had my head decked but not my block. Used the copper spray with a apex-i 1.1mm. My leakdown test says i have about 6% leakdown in all cyclinders which is bacially what a brand new engine will read.

So no you don;t have to get the block decked. Just deck the head and use the spray and it should be fine.

let5l1de · 11-04-2009, 01:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rc1honda

So no you don;t have to get the block decked. Just deck the head and use the spray and it should be fine.

Please keep in mind that all engine tolerance/clearance are not all the same form one engine to another. IMO every engine that is receiving the MLS HG upgrade should be check for squareness with a straightedge on both head and block.

Some get away with slapping a MLS HG on, others pay the price with a leaking front cover. They typically seal the cylinders without an issue.

~m

ericb382 · 11-04-2009, 04:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s14unimog

I can't agree with you. The FSM lists for you to use it and it would have considered a perfect decking surface between the two surfaces. I'm glad yours isn't leaking though.

The FSM gives procedures for a stock HG. We are talking about aftermarket HG's. I hope you wouldn't use the FSM's torque specs when torquing down ARP head studs.... Same concept.

Like I mentioned earlier, I called Apexi (the manufacturer of my HG) and asked them what they recomend for THEIR HG. They said not to use anything. I didn't and it worked perfect. Like I also mentioned earlier, there are some instances where I would deviate from their recomendations to match a specific application, but in a perfect world (head, block and front cover machined) you don't need it.

10-30-2009, 12:41 PM	#1
s14unimog Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: In a place, near a river, over a lake Age: 34 Posts: 2,415 Trader Rating: (22) Rides Gallery: s14unimog Feedback Score: 22 reviews	Head Gasket Installation - SR20DET Since it seems there is limited, and sometimes contradicting, information regarding a head gasket installation; I felt I would share my pictures and experiences in hopes of constructing a helpful/resourceful thread. Since head gasket removal was covered quite well by an individual on NICOclub, I will just provide the link to that thread. DIY: SR20DET Head Removal by Mrzabala: SR20DET Forum (rear-drive): Nissan Forums / Infiniti Forums - NICOclub Depending on what your needs are for your particular project, your repairs or upgrades, may differ from mine. As some of you may know, and for the ones who don't http://zilvia.net/f/engine-tech/2777...ur-screws.html , my engine recently ate a throttle body screw and so needed some repairs. I had the head decked, cleaned, JWT valve guides installed, new seals, compression zones checked, head assembled, and a missing cam cap replaced/fitted. Before you get started, its a good idea to go ahead and bleed your hydraulic lifters; its very easy and only takes a minute. The lifter removes just by pulling on the exposed end and is located under the outside leg of the rocker arm. Submerge the lifter in a container of new oil and depress the check valve located inside, at the base, the lifter. the FSM lists the use of a "suitable tool" so I used an appropriate sized allen wrench. with the check valve depressed go ahead and compress the top of the lifter until you feel it bottom out; you can release the check valve at this point. You should see air bubbles if its needed and once you're done, the lifter shouldn't compress anymore. Repeat if necessary. Next you want to go a head and clean the block surface as well as you can. I used a window scrapper with a new razor to remove the majority and then a dremal with a some what nonabrasive wheel, you don't want to create low spots. Use good judgment and just clean it. After its clean go ahead and apply a continuous bead of gray liquid gasket to the front timing cover area. Remember that a little goes a long way, so don't get carried away with a 0.250" bead. Install head gasket. This step is somewhat debated, I choose to use Copper Spray for added tack on the two surfaces but I know that you don't necessary have too. As it was explained to me, it can't hurt but could help and I have no experience to argue otherwise. Next apply another continuous bead on top of the gasket around the front timing cover area. My understanding for this is only to prevent weeping from the front cover. After you drop the head on, its now time to install the head studs. I am using ARP hardware so here is the information to know. If you are reusing head studs, its important to verify that they have not stretched. The area of stretch is usually in the threaded area of the stud its self, so look for differences in diameter. The O.A. length should be 6.600" +/- 0.010". Replace them if it exceeds this tolerance. To install them, you use a standard (not metric) allen wrench and thread them all the way down into the block. You need only to snug them down, no torque spec's req'd. DO NOT USE bolt smoothing compound on block threads! Install all 12pt nuts and washers with bolt smoothing compound. From my research, it seems there are two versions of head studs. Apparently, ARP has redone the kit for the SR20DET and now requires 105ft/lbs. I have an older kit which requires 80ft/lbs; this will be the 3rd time I've reused these. Refer to the FSM for exact torque sequence, or just remember: tighten from the inside out and loosen from the outside in. Tighten them in stages and let your last torque set be your biggest jump. I did... 25ft/lbs - 55ft/lbs - 80ft/lbs Don't forget to reinstall the 4 remaining, 10mm socket, screws shown removed in the thread listed above. The next step is to reinstall your mechanical timing assembly, set your timing chain tensioner and reinstall your CAS @ 15deg BTDC. The FSM calls for you to separate the cam sprockets from their corresponding shafts but its not necessary to install them. Make sure you have the dots at the silver links and the crank still at the second mark from the left. After all of this is done, and after rotating the assembly nothing binds, reinstall your intake manifold and associate components and the same for the exhaust side. I hope this was helpful... Please add your experiences or comments. I'll let you know if something doesn't work out right... __________________ Fuking ginger bread man stole my wallet... SHIFTlock_slide to side d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson Last edited by s14unimog; 01-23-2010 at 09:56 AM..*

10-30-2009, 01:28 PM	#2
Tearlessj Nissanaholic! Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Memphis Age: 29 Posts: 1,907 Trader Rating: (6) Feedback Score: 6 reviews	OK, now I have always heard that you HAVE to get your head and blocked decked to use a metal headgasket. Anyone know this for sure? Good write up for sure though. +1! __________________ Nagasaki Motors Friends help you move. Real friends help you move bodies.

10-30-2009, 01:31 PM	#3
s14unimog Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: In a place, near a river, over a lake Age: 34 Posts: 2,415 Trader Rating: (22) Rides Gallery: s14unimog Feedback Score: 22 reviews	I would say for sure on the head, especially since it usually warps long before the block does. Mine was merely surfaced, it was within FSM tolerances. You can always do the straight edge and shim pack test to be sure. __________________ Fuking ginger bread man stole my wallet... SHIFT*lock_slide to side d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

10-30-2009, 01:54 PM	#6
s14unimog Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: In a place, near a river, over a lake Age: 34 Posts: 2,415 Trader Rating: (22) Rides Gallery: s14unimog Feedback Score: 22 reviews	^ yeah that is a concern of mine, I have another SR powered car I picked up from a guy and its weeping from the front cover...what a bitch. This is my first head gasket install so I hope everything works out. __________________ Fuking ginger bread man stole my wallet... SHIFT*lock_slide to side d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

10-30-2009, 02:05 PM	#9
s14unimog Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: In a place, near a river, over a lake Age: 34 Posts: 2,415 Trader Rating: (22) Rides Gallery: s14unimog Feedback Score: 22 reviews	The Copper spray is ONLY a tack spray for the head gasket its self. The Grey Silicone is for the front seal and prevents the oil weeping I have talked to a number of different professional engine builders and the consensus is to USE copper spray. __________________ Fuking ginger bread man stole my wallet... SHIFT*lock_slide to side d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

10-30-2009, 02:00 PM	#7
Pure_JDM Zilvia Addict Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Denham Springs, LA Posts: 814 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	ditto^... mine's weeping there as well, so a new looks in the near future for me.

10-30-2009, 02:15 PM	#12
s14unimog Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: In a place, near a river, over a lake Age: 34 Posts: 2,415 Trader Rating: (22) Rides Gallery: s14unimog Feedback Score: 22 reviews	^ Right, only to help the head gasket seal not prevent oil weeping from the front cover. I am using the Cosworth MLS b/c I run low boost @ 15psi and high boost @ 25psi . I dyno'd 394rwhp @ ~17psi, it ran great until the screw was eaten; that was about 300 miles after tunning. __________________ Fuking ginger bread man stole my wallet... SHIFT*lock_slide to side d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

10-30-2009, 02:18 PM	#13
240sxfamily BANNED Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: phillyy Posts: 705 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	so shall i use RTV on the front cover piece? so it will seal that as well?

10-30-2009, 02:22 PM	#15
s14unimog Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: In a place, near a river, over a lake Age: 34 Posts: 2,415 Trader Rating: (22) Rides Gallery: s14unimog Feedback Score: 22 reviews	yeah, see the pictures? there is only one timing chain cover, we're talking SR20 here (noticing your avatar) __________________ Fuking ginger bread man stole my wallet... SHIFT*lock_slide to side d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

10-30-2009, 02:32 PM	#16
let5l1de Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: 626DRIFT, ca Posts: 1,420 Trader Rating: (30) Rides Gallery: let5l1de Feedback Score: 30 reviews	Sry for my lost train of thought... Cover and head... One more reason why less leaks should be prominent for SR front cover/head.... The area I'm concerned with on either KA or SR is the squareness of the top of the timing cover and block. __________________ GR Performance facebook Pics & More! Comments! http://www.facebook.com/pages/GR-Performance/120477531339202 Read My Sales Review 626 Friday Nights San Gabriel

10-30-2009, 02:47 PM	#17
VNG704 Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 1,575 Trader Rating: (17) Feedback Score: 17 reviews	Just some FYI: I used VW ARP head studs sold by frsport.com. The reason they gave me was, it's slightly longer and will make up for thicker head gaskets. It fits and holding fine on my SR. Tip, when lubing the head studs, don't get any on the ends that go into the block. If you do, the lube will not compress and you'll get inaccurate torques. Meaning keep the lube on the threads.

10-30-2009, 02:49 PM	#18
s14unimog Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: In a place, near a river, over a lake Age: 34 Posts: 2,415 Trader Rating: (22) Rides Gallery: s14unimog Feedback Score: 22 reviews	^ good point! I only used it on the top. Bolt smoothing compound should ONLY be used on threads that are NOT blind projection. __________________ Fuking ginger bread man stole my wallet... SHIFT*lock_slide to side d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

10-30-2009, 05:41 PM	#20
HYPNOTIK Zilvia Addict Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Pisa, Italy Posts: 700 Trader Rating: (3) Feedback Score: 3 reviews	Someone mentioned a Fel Pro HG and I've been considering using one as well. Does anyone have any first hand experience with a fel pro on a SR? Good, bad? __________________

10-30-2009, 10:04 PM	#21
ericb382 Zilvia Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Mesa, Az Posts: 293 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	I called apexi (since I was using an apexi HG) before I installed mine and asked if they recomend copper spray/RTV. They said no to both. The way I look at it, the only time you need RTV around the front cover is if you haven't had the block and front cover decked together. If both your block and head have been resurfaced, no need for copper spray. If you've taken a straight edge to them (not freshly machined) and they are good, copper spray. I also heard contradicting stories as to whether or not it was necessary to retorque head studs after heat cycling a metal HG. I called ARP for this (as I was using their studs,) they said yes. After your first heat cycle go through, break each headstud loose, and retorque. One at a time. I'm sure some people will disagree with me on my outlook on copper spray and whether it's worth re-torquing, but I like to get my recomendations directly from the manufacturers. Yes, I know, many people get away without retorquing, but it takes maybe an hour. Why not have the added security.

11-02-2009, 07:03 AM	#23
s14unimog Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: In a place, near a river, over a lake Age: 34 Posts: 2,415 Trader Rating: (22) Rides Gallery: s14unimog Feedback Score: 22 reviews	I think there are a few different ways to complete a head gasket installation and I think they change based on what kind of gasket you use. I was also advised from one of my information sources to re-torque them. He also recommended I paint the 12pt nut and stud so that I can see how many rotations I actually pick up; its not necessary to paint them, but it shows you the difference. As for the discrepancy between copper spray and liquid gasket on the timing cover area. I think the copper spray is optional, but as it was explained to me, "it can't hurt but it could help" so I choose to go that route. As for the liquid gasket, I don't think its optional. The FSM clearly indicated that it IS necessary for the installation and we all know, this would have considered perfect parts being installed; enough reason for me. __________________ Fuking ginger bread man stole my wallet... SHIFT*lock_slide to side d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

11-02-2009, 09:53 AM	#24
ericb382 Zilvia Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Mesa, Az Posts: 293 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	But the FSM is assuming you are using a stock HG. Once you switch to a metal HG, you should use the specs designated by the mfg of the HG.

11-02-2009, 01:07 PM	#25
s14unimog Nissanaholic! Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: In a place, near a river, over a lake Age: 34 Posts: 2,415 Trader Rating: (22) Rides Gallery: s14unimog Feedback Score: 22 reviews	Correct, but consider the differences of the two head gaskets and the specific location in question. Would you honestly put that back together without liquid gasket? Especially when considering the sealing issues associated with a MLS type head gasket when compared to an OEM one. __________________ Fuking ginger bread man stole my wallet... SHIFT*lock_slide to side d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

11-03-2009, 05:47 AM	#26
ericb382 Zilvia Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Mesa, Az Posts: 293 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	If the block and front cover were decked together like they are supposed to be, yes. I didn't have any problems with mine leaking....

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