zaquanh

what to do you guys think , honestly i think it helps but is there really a big need for it ,

i had one in my old car and my old cars temp is the same as my new cars temp and my new car still has stock thermostat

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JRas

It's not needed, it just opens at a lower temperature...

I used OEM in mine, when I replaced it

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Ceepo

i would say in the summer vegas heat, or socal heat it may help a little sitting in traffic, but most of us run electric fans the have a higher cooling capacity then our motors will even run lol, i wont lie i purchased a nismo thermostat for my redtop i am rebuilding right now...

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Om1kron

I got one for 20 bucks... that's why I run it.

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zaquanh

yea im just tryna see if i really need it , im in san antonio , we get weather like vegas juss not as dry you know

so yea mabye ill pass till we start tripple degree weather and i over heat at an event lmao jk

but yea idk

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240tuned91

im having trouble burping my car. will the nismo thermostat open easier and let the air out since it opens at a cooler tempature? i have a built ka24de btw

KwKouki

peace of mind for people living in really hot climates, and for the price they can be found for why the hell not

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projectRDM

No. Air is air, it won't see the Nismo symbol and bleed any easier.

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240tuned91

thats what i thought

!Zar!

I don't see a huge need for it. I've always ran OEM and haven't felt the need to run a Nismo one.

Efans are less effective than the clutchfan/shroud setup.

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Spoolpigeon

i run one in the summer time since i do alot of autocross. but switch back to stock in the winter so the heater works better.

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Ali 556

dunno,

I'm here half way around the world in the middle of fucking nowhere and the temp gets up to 45-49* C in the summer....

i've had a "nismo" T-stat...and KOYO rad And 2 x Altima fans....(S14 + KA)

And the same ^^ but WITHOUT T-stat And my engine ran COOLER than B4...

Odd...?

Ali

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Bigsyke

Does the thermo even open durring winter when the heater is blowing?

Impossible, literally. The coolant isnt in the radiator long enough to be chilled unless you have a working thermo.

boske

?

Without a t-stat your motor might not even warm up to operating temperature.

Banegraphix

i run a oem thermostat on a SR and I have never had any overheating issue in Florida and its a DD and track car.

g6civcx

You ask us a question, but I'll ask you another question right back at you.

What temp do you want your coolant to stabilise at? Meaning, when the car is fully warmed up, what is the ideal operating temp for your motor?

If you don't know, you need to find out.


Like I said 1000 times before, the thermostat regulates coolant flow. You want the coolant to heat up as quickly as possible to operating temp, and then stay there.

Anything above and below is bad.

Do you need a lower temp thermostat? It depends on your operating temp.

If your operating temp is close to the thermostat fully opening temp, then I would say go to a lower thermostat because your coolant temp will fluctuate too much with the thermostat opening and closing.

If your operating temp is much higher than your thermostat temp, you actually need to bump up the thermostat temp because your coolant may never actually reach operating temp.

Ideally, your thermostat temp should be a little below your operating temp.

If your operating temp is lower than your thermostat temp, you need to go to a lower thermostat.


I ask you again. What do you want your operating coolant temp to be?

projectRDM

I would hope so, otherwise you don't have any heat.

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g6civcx

The heater has nothing to do with coolant temp. There is nothing preventing you from blasting the heat when the engine is cold, and getting no heat.


Do we understand the theory behind the cooling system and how the thermostat regulates coolant flow?

TheRealNighthog

The point of bottle-necking the cooling system with a thermostat is to create higher than normal atmospheric pressure in the cooling system. Higher pressure helps raise the normal boiling point of the coolant so that it can carry more heat away from the block. Notice that the bottle-necking only occurs before the coolant re-enters the block and obviously after it has circulated through the radiator. The rest of the way, it's free-flow till the coolant ends back at where the thermostat is. The radiator cap also helps with creating higher pressure (and more so) as the spring in the radiator will not let any of the coolant move to the overflow reservoir until the cooling system reaches a certain pressure.
If you add the higher pressure system to a larger capacity radiator, you are enabling the coolant to spend more time in the radiator to help shed away even more of the heat it carries from the block compared to a stock cooling system.
Even if the coolant's normal boiling point may be 215* (unless it is pure water), under the pressure created in the cooling system the boiling point now would be around 220-225*, depending on how high the pressure is.
So you want a little bit of bottle-necking and a higher-pressure capacity radiator cap so you can actually help the block get cooled better.
The block has to stay at a certain temperature, which is why the need for the thermostat. That's why the needle on the temperature gauge shows the coolant being colder than normal when you have no thermostat in place. The various ratings of the thermostats help ensure that you reach the maximun highest temperature goal that you have in mind. And when that doesn't help, then come fans to help reach whatever highest temperature it is you want it to be at.

OperationSr20

I have one, a KOYO & Dual FAL's... I live in Chicago with high humidity and a lot of Stop 'n Go. I got mine b/c I needed a new one, I found one for $30.00 new, and could actually use it. I have a Greddy Multi-Switcher unit, that I'm using as a fan controller, it reads roughly 155*-165* Average. My old was broken and running open, during the fall, so my car was COLD and that's bad, so it was a neccisary for me. It isn't "needed" for-say, but if you need to replace your current because it isn't working right, I'd say go for it.

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g6civcx

Does the water pump have anything to do with raising coolant pressure?

I'm no expert in fluid dynamics. Does the pressure equalise as soon as the thermostat opens, assuming the appropriate loss of course? Is the water pump forcing coolant flow through the system?

Can you describe a little more how the radiator cap works?


What's the reason why the needle stay low?

What do you mean it "doesn't help"?

TheRealNighthog

Does the water pump have anything to do with raising coolant pressure?
Of course. The pump is the source of the pressure.


I'm no expert in fluid dynamics. Does the pressure equalise as soon as the thermostat opens, assuming the appropriate loss of course? Is the water pump forcing coolant flow through the system?
People assume that coolant flow is insufficient or being blocked all because of the diameter of the thermostat opening hence why some people assume that running an open thermostat will help with cooling. They think Bigger=better. Im not sure on equalized pressure. You would need a way to measure it pre and post thermostat. Bottlenecks or venturis how ever do help in pressure and velocity depending on the application


Can you describe a little more how the radiator cap works?
here you go. This might help. lol
HowStuffWorks "How Car Cooling Systems Work"





What's the reason why the needle stay low?
I dont like to use OEM guages since they either read hot or cold or somewhere in the middle. I use all aftermarket guages since I like to keep close tabs on all functions of my motor. When you run no thermostat you are allowing coolant to flow at all times with no control over it. The purpose of the thermostat is to open and close at determined temps to keep the temps in check. There is an optimum operating temp for our motors, and its def. not optimal to run too cool. I am thinking that I worded my thoughts wrong.



What do you mean it "doesn't help"?[/quote]There might be times when the rad by itself might not be enough due to either driving condtions, cooling system condition, or external conditions such as high temps or stop and go traffic. Thats where the fans come in, to aid the rad. in heat exchange.

s13pignose

What... coolant temp really has nothing to do with heater temp? I have a nismo Tstat..and in cold months it takes a long time to warm up, and as soon as I hit expressway..it takes nothing for the temps to drop... while on it the needle isn't even half way. But driving stop light to stop light it'll get there and stay there.

I notice my heat isn't as warm when the temp gauge needle is closer to the bottom versus being at the middle. Even on the same fan setting. This is why I ask. Even with no clutch fan...all I'm running right now is the a/c fan. But also silicone hoses and coolant additive..but stock radiator

!Zar!

I would never trust the stock temp guage in a 240.

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SleepyS-14

I thought the nismo T-stat was a waste of money before I bought it. It does run cooler than stock by about 25*, but the most important part is the larger diameter of the valve. It is about 20-30% bigger than stock which I instantly noticed an improvment in temp stability and over cooling performance. It flows a lot more coolant. And you will notice it is you track your car. Also an oil cooler makes a big difference on coolant temps.

s13pignose

Lol it has randomly went all the way to hot once before..and nothing even happen lol..didn't blow HG or nothing...popped the hood all looked fine. Was thinking air bubble, but I had coolant flush like some months before done at shop..and i never even took the rad cap of since. I know it happened in my dads car once, but his gauge had to be telling the truth cause when he got home..coolant was all over the driveway.

Thought about getting an aftermarket..even though my car is just bolt-ons and nothing really serious

zaquanh

wow this thread got big anyways


the nismo isnt really needed , if you have a good fan setup and radiator you should be fine

on my s13 i have nismo thermo , god speed rad and altima fans , car ran at about 180ish ,


on s14 , clutch fan , koyo rad , stock thermo , and bumper with no triming covering it atcually making it hotter , runs about 180 , with bumper off at 160

i juss drove 5 hours to dallas for an event , car didnt go above 180

as long as you have a good system you will be fine

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s13pignose

About cooltant gauge..from what i read there's 2 stock sensors..one for oem gauge and one for ecu. Is it possible to run the sender for an aftermarket gauge in the same place the sensor came out for oem gauge. I know u can run adapater in the upper hose, but to be honsest I would like to not cut my hoses as I think it would look cleaner. Guess it just has to be same thread pitch?

Don't mean to hijack thread...but if stock gauge is crap..really wouldn't no if nismo makes a difference lol

zaquanh

this is what i have

Engine - Water Neck Adapter

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Bigsyke

But wait ive got a solid copy of the KA24DEs coolant route, and it goes to the heater core 1st.

Your telling me in -10*f weather blasting the heater isnt going to reduce the coolant temp? I could sit there while I bleed my coolant system, watch the engine coolant temps, yes I get a reduction when I engage my heater blower motor on 3-4.

Trips on the highway in this freezing weather I can pull over and pop the hood, and the water neck/radiator/lower radiator hose is ice cold. I let it idle and then the above warm up.

- Water pump creating the source of pressure......Have you bled a coolant system before? I dont see the water start to expand for about 10 minutes.

- Thermostat regulates pressure....How is this done when there is a hole or jiggle valve? Some Tstats dont even come wtih the valve anymore.

-And for those who said you wil run cooler with the t-stat, Yes with pure water and WW, only because it can transfer heat alot better than 50/50, even then your running a risk of warping the block because who knows how chilled the water going into the head is, when it spends very little time in the radiator being chilled. Plus if your constantly at 5krpms how do you know how fast the water is being circulated. Your just circulating hot water/coolant around the engine and pretty much making the radiator horribly inefficient.

Thats my take on it anyway.