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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15. |
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10-03-2011, 05:06 PM | #1 |
Zilvia Member
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Brakes locking up (all 4)
This is driving me bat-shit crazy. My brakes keep locking up, not just one, or two, but all four. I want to say its a pressure issue with the master. the master cylinder was replaced. after this started happening, so unless both are bad??... I can use the ebrake all day, and ill be good. The second I step on the pedal they start to tighten up and get smoking hot. I took the pins out and made sure they were not sticking and re-greased them all. a few were stuck but I pulled them and cleaned it all. gave me no resistance when put back in.
when they locked up today, opened the bleeder valve on the front passenger side. the pressure in the system shot out when i cracked it. after that all 4 spun fine. I took it around again, and it stayed soft for a few miles. after breaking a few more corners, they tightened up again. i went to the front drivers side and cracked the bleeder. same thing happened, pressure shot some fluid out and they turned fine. did this with the back as well, same result. I don't think the lines are collapsed, since i replaced the front two. it seems like its all pointing to the master, any other suggestions or ideas? breaks have been properly flushed and bled. still no change. |
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10-03-2011, 05:21 PM | #3 |
Zilvia Member
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I would say something but since the admin even feel like posting BS ill probably get a ban or something, I spell like ass thanks for pointing it out. problem still not solved, post edited.
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10-03-2011, 05:35 PM | #4 |
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No ban. You came here asking for help fixing your car.
I simply started by trying to help fix you. Good luck.
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10-03-2011, 06:12 PM | #6 | |
Zilvia Member
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Quote:
@S14DB: yes it was. |
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10-04-2011, 05:16 PM | #7 |
Zilvia Member
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changed the master again. it lasted a little bit longer but still locked up on me. lines have been changed, front calipers changed, master bench bled, lined bled, new master. Im leaning towards a rebuild kit for the calipers, but im at a loss.
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10-04-2011, 07:53 PM | #8 |
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Same brand master? Sounds like the drain back isn't working when you release the pedal. Did you re adjust the pedal when you replaced the MC?
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10-04-2011, 08:43 PM | #10 |
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Have you tried adjust the brake booster piston/rod/7mm nut? Normally, you don't do this but it's probably your problem. try looking into at least.
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10-05-2011, 03:40 AM | #11 |
Zilvia Member
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Cotbu: I'll have to check it. I have a fair amount of play in the pedal so I'm not sure.
Maniac: 100% on that one S14DB: I'll check that as well, the only thing I'm skeptic on is it pushes down pretty par the first few pumps driving. You think if it's not fully disengaged it could be restricting flow back? |
10-05-2011, 07:49 AM | #12 |
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I would say adjust your pedal / push rod. You'll want to adjust your brake lights to activate once the slightest sign of braking pressure is felt.
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10-06-2011, 12:25 PM | #13 |
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Adjusted the break pedal since the push-rod coming from the booster was in to tight of a place to adjust. Bled the lines again, and the fronts don't lock anymore, they rub a bit but never get tight. The back is locking up worse though, it use be be able to be turned with some good elbow grease, locked now.
Gona try to do a pressure flush on all the lines, rebuilt calipers all the way around and see where I get. |
10-13-2011, 01:34 PM | #14 |
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Willing to bet its the booster. Ive heard of this happening with cars swapped form auto to 5sp, but can still happen with a bad 5sp booster. my 2 cents.
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10-14-2011, 06:01 AM | #16 |
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I had a problem with one of my calipers sticking, turned out when I went to rebuild the front calipers I found that the bracket the pad is seated in was a bit rusty and the pad wasn't being allowed to smoothly go in and out. Took some sand paper to it and smoothed it out, never a problem since.
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