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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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08-17-2008, 01:49 PM | #1 |
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what you should know, before lifting your car
I've decided to make this thread to attempt to educate people on the design of their cars. It's come to my attention that people don't know, that their cars DO NOT have an frame-rails. The 240sx is a unibody meaning all the structural strength is from the external skin.
to read more about this structural design I recommend reading the link below: Monocoque - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia these long beam type things that come down the middle of the car are called side members as you can see from the picture. This is not a frame-rail like most assume.. these are not designed to be lifted from under any circumstance. you may ask where should I lift my car from than? from the front cross-member or rear differential. Anywhere else, and you are risking the chance of damaging the chassis. where should I place my jack stands? again in the picture it is shown and labled "Safety stand points" but it's not as specific as I'd like it to be. the factory service manual recommends you use a saftey stand adapter on top of your saftey stand. this is basically a rubber block with a slit/groove down the middle. This slit or groove is where the pinch weld that run down the the sides of your car lays into. I recommend you find this adapter or get jackstands that are notched to properly seat these pinch welds. I'm hoping you guys learned something and that I see less threads about someone damaging their cross-members. feel free to post questions and comments
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Last edited by JRas; 08-17-2008 at 07:42 PM.. |
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08-17-2008, 03:07 PM | #2 |
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Thanks for posting this man. I work on my car in my garage and I have to use a floor jack and I've been putting Jack Stands under what I THOUGHT was the frame rail, which has been caving in a little bit. Hopefully I didn't mess with the structural integrity. Damn!
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08-17-2008, 03:10 PM | #3 |
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Or... go to a garage with a drive on lift. Most military installations with Auto Craft Shops (i believe most of them do) have drive on lifts. Either way good post. i've seen a few cars screwed up by lifting somewhere wrong, ie, crushing in a door. Dont ask, it happens.
Also, lifting at the pinch welds, if you have an in floor lift, is a good place too. Just watch out for exhaust, gas tanks, etc.
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08-17-2008, 04:17 PM | #4 |
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apparently, some old guy lifted my car without me noticing it, and its a rustbucket, so the pinch welld near the front fender bent in straight up. -_-'
damn old people...
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08-17-2008, 04:20 PM | #5 |
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yea, my pinch welds are pretty fucked from jacking on them.
the paint came off of one of them and now my rocker is rusting out pretty bad, gotta do something about that this winter. |
08-17-2008, 04:23 PM | #6 | |
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Quote:
i'm confused.
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08-17-2008, 04:24 PM | #7 | |
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Quote:
crap milwaukee roads + salt + rusty rockers = no driving the 240 for me this winter
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08-17-2008, 04:25 PM | #8 |
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There is actually a little circular lift pad at the rear of the s-13's and you CAN use the "framerail" but DON"T JACK IT UP IN THE MIDDLE! Jack it up at the front of the rail just before it starts to turn up. That is a VERY strong part of the chasis. I lift tons of 240's using those points all the time and have NEVER damaged any of them. Jacking at the pinch welds is aldo a bad idea, but sometimes is necessary on very low cars.
EDIT: I place jackstands at the very front and the very back of the rail all the time and it has never done any damage either. Everytime I put jackstands on the "safety stand points" circled in your pictures they bend. |
08-17-2008, 04:27 PM | #9 |
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no. he's saying that if you were to life from anywhere else but the rear diff and front crossmember you're risking damage.
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08-17-2008, 04:41 PM | #10 | |
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Quote:
correction with punctuation: " from the front cross-member or rear differential. Anywhere else, and you are risking the chance of damaging the chassis." yeah, sorry guys, i'm a punctuation cunt, otherwise i no do the understanding of you.
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08-17-2008, 05:49 PM | #12 |
Zilvia Member
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ive been doing the same thing to 3 of my 240's...never had a problem with it caving in because it's reinforced. shops use these points for jack stands as well.
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08-17-2008, 06:19 PM | #13 |
Zilvia Junkie
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the factory service manual calls front cross member the front suspension member.
i have used the round knobs at the back for lifting. they dont seem the right shape to accomodate jack stands. very good thread |
08-17-2008, 06:32 PM | #15 |
Zilvia Junkie
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good post.
too bad im too lazy to make or find a pinch weld pad. I've seen them like once being sold in a stock. 99% i end up bending the pinch welds. I've known a few people who've made their own jack pad by using a block of wood, and cut a groove for the pinch welds. |
08-17-2008, 06:50 PM | #16 |
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i actually use the force to lift my car.
I understand that mainly the Premium members here have the access to those kinds of abilities. But over time anyone can achieve it. Lotsa practice, patience, elbow grease and some time. Otherwise, just use the Jack Points shown above. |
08-17-2008, 07:17 PM | #18 |
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yeah my pinch welds are completely shot...some metal work needs dont this winter to fix the "frame rail" rot on the driver side, and fix those damn pinch welds.
grr.
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08-17-2008, 07:41 PM | #20 | |
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Quote:
good write up, I always wondered where to properly lift the car
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08-17-2008, 08:26 PM | #21 |
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By floor jacks, I should have said floor lifts. Those in ground lifts you drive over...
Firestone had them when I worked there. They lifed up evenly all the way down the pinch welds. Worked great.
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08-17-2008, 08:35 PM | #22 |
Zilvia Junkie
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You can find the jack stand postion by the notch in the seam(pinch weld) that runs from wheel well to wheel well. the position is few inches from wheel well on each end. not sure if my jack stands are suitable or that i would trust since the side member has worked. I assume the stand straddles the seam. Last edited by surreybc; 08-17-2008 at 09:08 PM.. |
08-17-2008, 09:12 PM | #24 |
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lol
Earlier today I put my car on jackstands..... on the "frame rails" I knew they weren't actual frame rails, but they looked more solid than the rockers. Guess I have to rethink this tomorrow. Repped for good and important info!
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08-17-2008, 11:27 PM | #25 |
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08-17-2008, 11:33 PM | #26 |
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I always hated when i was at work and a car would come in with pinch welds that weren't mangled, cuz then you have to take care to use the right adapter so you don't fuck them up.
(or just jack the car by the "frame rails")
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08-17-2008, 11:45 PM | #27 |
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since my car is insanely low, i just use my small jack to jack it up from the tow hook and get the big jack to jack it up from the diff.
for the front, i drive up on ramps/2x4/etc to get my front end high enough to fit a jack underneath the front crossmember. jackstands for the rear i place them where the subframe U's. right by where the toe rods connect to the subframe. for the front, i place them underneath my flca |
08-18-2008, 08:24 AM | #28 |
Zilvia Member
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Whats wrong with jackstands under the crossmember? Thats labeled as a jacking point anyway. Don't try putting jackstand on the framerails right under the seat area, my floors pushed up from it now, framerails are all flattened
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08-18-2008, 02:43 PM | #29 |
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I'm almost positive that the FSM states to lift the car from those points, if you're putting it up on a lift.
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08-18-2008, 03:05 PM | #30 |
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I'm pretty sure there is a diagram in the FSM that states the front/rear of the "framerails"/crossmembers being the preferred place for putting a jackstand.
There's no way I could ever jack my front subframe, and my car isn't even that low. |
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