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Old 11-18-2015, 09:41 PM   #1
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T-56 hard to shift

Purchased a ls1 and t56 out of a 2004 gto from a salvage yard. I watched the engine get pulled from the car, 80k miles. I have now spent countless hours swapping this setup into a 240sx. Project is complete but I am having a transmission issue. It is extremely hard to put it into any gear and requires a lot of effort. Even when u put it in natural it's hard to wiggle it back and forth. Transmission came with a b&m short shifter. Any help would be greatly appreciated. This is the last peice of the puzzle I am stuck on. I pray someone has the answer lol.
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Old 11-18-2015, 09:44 PM   #2
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What clutch. Hopefully not an 80k mile one. And what gear oil are you using in the transmission. That can have a surprising impact on how smooth it feels. Also maybe someone who actually has experience with a t56 can explain if it even is a smooth transmission
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Old 11-18-2015, 09:49 PM   #3
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Using spec stage 2.5 but this issue was present even before being mounted to the engine. I was hoping I just didn't have good leverage with trans just sitting on the floor.
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Old 11-18-2015, 09:49 PM   #4
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Using mobile 1 synthetic. Also issues was present with the previous oil.
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Old 11-18-2015, 09:56 PM   #5
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And clutch is brand new btw
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Old 11-18-2015, 10:24 PM   #6
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No leaks? Does it grind when shifting? Bad slave or master cylinder maybe?
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Old 11-18-2015, 11:28 PM   #7
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Hate to break it to you but compared to other, especially import, transmissions the T56 is one notchy bitch. Unless you upgrade several components that's kind of how they are. Look over at LStech and you will get the same feedback. The peddle pressure isn't helped by single disc that most people use. Follow the advice above about checking for grinds and type of oil etc. but realize they shift like tanks unless upgraded. Some people swear by the Tick Adjustuble Master and another upgrade people rave about is the MGW shifter. They are forgiving for drag racing but for daily type driving they can be a pain in the ass. I'm running mine with a SPEC 3+ and I hear your pain.
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Old 11-19-2015, 12:58 AM   #8
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That clutch you have might require a shim behind the tob.
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Old 11-19-2015, 12:59 AM   #9
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You also may need to pull it and see if you need offset dowel pins
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Old 11-19-2015, 05:50 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by az_240 View Post
No leaks? Does it grind when shifting? Bad slave or master cylinder maybe?
Brand new slave and master cylinder
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Old 11-19-2015, 05:53 AM   #11
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Hate to break it to you but compared to other, especially import, transmissions the T56 is one notchy bitch. Unless you upgrade several components that's kind of how they are. Look over at LStech and you will get the same feedback. The peddle pressure isn't helped by single disc that most people use. Follow the advice above about checking for grinds and type of oil etc. but realize they shift like tanks unless upgraded. Some people swear by the Tick Adjustuble Master and another upgrade people rave about is the MGW shifter. They are forgiving for drag racing but for daily type driving they can be a pain in the ass. I'm running mine with a SPEC 3+ and I hear your pain.
What's going on with this is deff not normal. I'm a grown man and it requires about 75% of my strength to shift a gear. Extremely tight.
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Old 11-19-2015, 05:54 AM   #12
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Problem presented even before install of new clutch
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Old 11-19-2015, 06:53 AM   #13
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Sounds like you have an internal issue if it is tough to move back and forth in neutral even. Otherwise I would say it sounds like maybe the shift issue is with the concentric slave. Is your slave also new? And is it OEM or aftermarket? And do you have an extended line so you can bleed it?

I will say that T56's are slow shifting transmissions in general though. The only way to really help that is with a lighter clutch disk, like an unsprung puck clutch for example. Do you have an FBody T56 or the later M12 designation T56 like found in the GTO's?
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Old 11-19-2015, 07:11 AM   #14
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Try to have someone spin the output shaft back and forth a little while you attempt to engage a gear. If input/output ISNT spinning a little bit, you'll get bound up. So with rotation, It should occur easily. I have a T56 in my garage.

You should be able to engage without clutch. x2 on a notchy ass trans. You should NOT be putting the amount of effort that you're describing.

Im not a T56 Guru, but people install billet shift forks, because when you really row a gear, the OEM forks can bend. Which may be where you're at.
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Old 11-19-2015, 07:36 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NISR20MO View Post
Sounds like you have an internal issue if it is tough to move back and forth in neutral even. Otherwise I would say it sounds like maybe the shift issue is with the concentric slave. Is your slave also new? And is it OEM or aftermarket? And do you have an extended line so you can bleed it?

I will say that T56's are slow shifting transmissions in general though. The only way to really help that is with a lighter clutch disk, like an unsprung puck clutch for example. Do you have an FBody T56 or the later M12 designation T56 like found in the GTO's?
Oem slave cylinder and its from an 04 gto
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Old 11-19-2015, 07:39 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jorgs_7 View Post
Try to have someone spin the output shaft back and forth a little while you attempt to engage a gear. If input/output ISNT spinning a little bit, you'll get bound up. So with rotation, It should occur easily. I have a T56 in my garage.

You should be able to engage without clutch. x2 on a notchy ass trans. You should NOT be putting the amount of effort that you're describing.

Im not a T56 Guru, but people install billet shift forks, because when you really row a gear, the OEM forks can bend. Which may be where you're at.
I'll try what your talking about tonight and see what happens. It will go into every gear but requires a lot of effort. Damn I don't want to have to pull the entire setup back out lol.
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Old 11-19-2015, 08:30 AM   #17
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No way it should take 75% of your strength even with these notchy bitches. Yeah unfortunately that sounds internal if it's that bad and occurs even in neutral.
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Old 11-19-2015, 09:49 AM   #18
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I switched from Dex III to AMSOIL synthetic ATF and it made a significant difference in how my shifting feels. But it sounds like you have more issues...
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Old 11-19-2015, 09:54 AM   #19
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No way it should take 75% of your strength even with these notchy bitches. Yeah unfortunately that sounds internal if it's that bad and occurs even in neutral.

Maybe he has Swifty Twiggy arms?

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Old 11-19-2015, 10:18 AM   #20
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So you say you have a GTO T56.

Is the shifter a GTO short shifter? I know you said it was already there, BUT the GTO and F-body shifters are different. They also, internally, use a different rear offset lever which is the cup under the plate that the shift lever sits inside and handles the directions you give it.

In order to use the GTO trans in my car I had to buy a F-Body rear offset lever and F-Body short shifter so everything would play nice and come out of the shifter hole in the right spot.

FBody B/M - http://www.ebay.com/itm/B-M-45052-Ma...xWRrl-&vxp=mtr

GTO B/M - http://www.ebay.com/itm/B-M-45043-Pr...pWDvji&vxp=mtr

If you have a mismatch combo of rear offset lever and shifter, or a F-Body T56, etc. you will have issues.
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Old 11-19-2015, 11:40 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NISR20MO View Post
So you say you have a GTO T56.

Is the shifter a GTO short shifter? I know you said it was already there, BUT the GTO and F-body shifters are different. They also, internally, use a different rear offset lever which is the cup under the plate that the shift lever sits inside and handles the directions you give it.

In order to use the GTO trans in my car I had to buy a F-Body rear offset lever and F-Body short shifter so everything would play nice and come out of the shifter hole in the right spot.

FBody B/M - http://www.ebay.com/itm/B-M-45052-Ma...xWRrl-&vxp=mtr

GTO B/M - http://www.ebay.com/itm/B-M-45043-Pr...pWDvji&vxp=mtr



If you have a mismatch combo of rear offset lever and shifter, or a F-Body T56, etc. you will have issues.

For sure its a gto b&m but as for the offset leaver I can't say 100% but it did fit perfectly already. Now that I have started the car and ran it thru the gears while it's still up on Jack stands it has gotten probably 25% easier to move the shift leaver around. Maybe running it on the road will loosen it up. I'm not sure how long this car had been sitting before this setup was pulled. Engine runs great tho lol
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Old 11-19-2015, 12:41 PM   #22
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Glad to hear its a bit easier. Keep an eye on it and see if it eases in a bit with more driving. BTW my SPEC 3 works as it should but it takes significantly more pressure to shift with this puppy. I have reviewed the entire system as has a local shop to make sure everything is working as it should and installed correctly....it is. Since my 15 hour drive with it it has gotten a bit easier to drive but its still not ideal for DD. I am looking at adding in a bronze shifter cup/bushing and installing an LS7 Clutch to see if it helps some.

http://www.thegearbox.org/T56.html
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Old 11-19-2015, 02:12 PM   #23
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thanks for all the help guys, ill report back after getting the car on the road and driving it a few time.
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Old 11-19-2015, 10:27 PM   #24
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did you bench bleed the master cyl and use a power bleeder?

they are a bitch to get bled correctly if you dont
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Old 11-20-2015, 06:18 AM   #25
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did you bench bleed the master cyl and use a power bleeder?

they are a bitch to get bled correctly if you dont
yes i used a snapon power bleeder
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