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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15. |
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11-23-2010, 07:34 PM | #1 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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SR Transmission woes, clutch won't engage?
So here is the deal. I had an sr20 swap done about 2 months ago.
Yesterday, I was driving along, taking my girl out to see Harry potter, noticing my car felt like it was stuttering(Like when you are driving thirty, and put it in fifth), then about 10 miles down the road... BAM, I go to shift from fourth to fifth, and the engine revs to like 5k when I put my foot on the gas. Clutch did not engage at all for some reason. I'm with my girl at the time, so to be safe I pull over. Engine is fine. Everything is fine. Clutch will not engage at all. I have no clue wtf could have happened, but I let the car idle, and tried shifting gears. I shifted without pushing the clutch down, while the car is at idle. How is that possible? 1st, all the way to fifth, as if the car was off, and no clutch needed. I turned it back on, and I smelt a burning/rotten egg smell, so I quickly shut it off. If it helps, a few things to help me diagnose the issue: 1.)Anytime at idle, since about two months ago, there would be a light tapping noise from the trans, kinda like tapping lifters, and it would go away whenever I pushed the clutch in(I assumed TOB?). 2.)On a cold start, I would hold the clutch down in neutral, and whenever I would let off the clutch(in neutral), RPMs would drop from 1400-1200. When I push the clutch pedal back in, it shot back up to 1400. WTF? 3.) There is an aftermarket HEAVY ASS CLUTCH in there from the original swap. I'm talking about your leg is hurting after 10/12 seconds of holding the clutch down. Any ideas on what the hell is going on? I suspected my TOB might have gone bad(it was the original from the swap), but I thought that would just make it so I can't shift gears? Is it possible the clutch fork broke/bent due to the heavy clutch? Any ideas? It's 100% not my Master or Slave, I know this for a fact.
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Last edited by KaminaSan; 11-24-2010 at 08:45 AM.. |
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11-24-2010, 05:29 AM | #2 |
Man w/ CTSV & a Car Seat
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Can you still move the shifter around? Either the tranny is blown or the pivot on the fork broke off...check the fork first and see if its still good. You can pop the dust cap off and peek in there to check.
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11-24-2010, 08:34 AM | #4 | ||
Zilvia Junkie
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I tried restarting it, and put it in first, let off the clutch, and the car just kind of stuttered terribly, but still didn't go anywhere. Could this be due to the fact that I have an extremely heavy clutch from the original swap? I am suspecting it could possibly be the clutch fork/pivot. I don't know EXACTLY what these do, as I'm not too trans savvy. I am having the trans pulled today at Pit Garage. I'll keep everyone updated.! Do transmissions really just BLOW up all of a sudden? Like... I have never even brought my car past 7k rpm, nor clutchkicked. It really is just my DD. There has never been ANY slipping of this clutch? Could it all of a sudden just wear out?
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11-26-2010, 12:24 PM | #5 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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So, if anyone wants to know...
My clutch completely shattered. The part around the input spline, somehow severed the metal that extends to the clutch meat... We think it may have been due to a few things: 1.) My throwout bearing was frozen completely 2.) My clutch slave was leaking pretty badly, probably losing hydraulic pressure.
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11-26-2010, 01:43 PM | #7 | |
Zilvia Junkie
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Come to find out, it looked like an OEM style clutch, with springs, but the weight and stiffness of it was probably because there was an aftermarket pressure plate on it.
We replaced the clutch with a nismo oem upgrade, slave cylinder, throwout bearing, along with my rear main seal, because it started to get a pindrop leak. In the process of breaking it in now, got about 100 stop and go city miles on it, and the pedal feels SO soft compared to the previous one. Like, I thought I was going to have to bleed the slave cylinder because of how easy it was to push down. For some reason, the rpms still drop and go up while the car is in neutral on a cold start depending on whether I have the clutch in or out, but the car shifts SO much smoother, and even when switching gears, I don't get the resistance from the shifter like I did before.
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