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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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08-22-2010, 07:43 AM | #1502 |
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Awesome. I'm saving my moneyyy haha.
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08-22-2010, 11:03 AM | #1504 |
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I want Def's stuff, but after having dealt with my entire front suspension for the last few months, I'm not sure I want to just turn around and sell it, since I don't think anyone would want to buy it from me, and I'd have no use for it sitting around if I managed to come up with the money for Def's stuff hahahaha
Stupid cars. |
08-23-2010, 06:02 AM | #1505 |
Zilvia Member
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Got some testing done. Arms work well. Need to work out where my rc is so i can improve the setup further.
Also no arb!! Appears to be nice, i drove for 2 hours before i remebered they were missin.g lol. A pic of it sideways showing very small amount of roll. Feels like it has more grip and less likely to push on in corner initiation (turn in) I dont get any clearance problems from the tension rod mounting position. Plenty of lock, loads of grip, fast steering! Iam happy!! Well until psm pull theyre fingers out and release everything i need |
08-23-2010, 07:44 AM | #1509 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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max needs to come out with those off-centered solid bushings for the steering rack they were talking about too!
i cant hack up my rack,...or i totally would :/
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cONtRol FReAkS |
08-23-2010, 08:08 AM | #1510 |
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What?
You don't hack up the rack. You hack up the RACK MOUNTING BRACKETS ON THE CROSSMEMBER. Hope that's what you meant in the first place... |
08-23-2010, 09:02 AM | #1512 |
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I don't think I'll be going that route, as my knuckles are modified in such a way that I do not get the over center type binding at full lock anymore, but that is certainly another good way to get rid of the over centering issue.
As a matter of fact, if you went with the front subframe mod, you might be able to get away with using the stock knuckles, those PBM or Tein tie rod spacers, and get a little more angle out of your stock setup, without going with modified knuckles. Although, it seems that the subframe mod is actually a bit more involved and the knuckles would be an easier way to do it... |
08-23-2010, 10:36 AM | #1513 |
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I never overcentered with Tein spacers on my stock knuckles.
Swiftmini, that looks awesome!
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08-23-2010, 02:24 PM | #1514 |
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Probably because you had stock type tie rod ends.
With any spacing and you might start to run into that problem. I know I did with about 1.5" and up of spacing. |
08-23-2010, 03:24 PM | #1515 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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yeah thats what i ment!....lol
FD rules say you cant touch the subframes/crossmembers in any way/shape/form. (im sure ya kno) but maybe one day on my spirited-driving-mobile!
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08-23-2010, 05:18 PM | #1516 |
Nissanaholic!
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I just did megan adj front lca's and put my PBM knuckles on. Now my tie rods arent long enought (peak inner, wicked outer). I am thinking I might have to make my own sleeve that connects the inner to outer. The sleeve on it now is 2.5 inches long. I could use another 1.5 inches to have both ends safely threaded into the sleeve.
ALSO next problem The adj control arms adjust on the inside so if you are adding alot of length it pushes the sway bar mounts too far away to be useable....( Im not running a sway bar anyways just an FYI. NEXT NEXT bigger problem. The mounting holes for the tensior rod are moved farther to the rear of the car so it added like 203007889 degrees of caster to the front almost to the point where I have my tension rods fully maxed out on length and still have a bit too much caster which is taking away from angle due to ackerman and making the knuckle max out hitting the lca before the rack is maxed out. THE PLUS is with the spacers on the lca + the pbm knucks my tie rods,lca and tension rods are all very very close to horizontal..... If someone could shoot me some links or info on what can help me out on the tie rod thing and tension rod thing before i have to resort to making stuff.
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08-23-2010, 06:28 PM | #1518 |
Nissanaholic!
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and that will work with s14 outers? also I didnt see them on pbm for sale
ALSO does anybody know s14 tie rod thread pitch and size
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IG DearDerekKing Last edited by derek king; 08-23-2010 at 06:37 PM.. Reason: anal |
08-23-2010, 08:22 PM | #1520 |
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I believe that you might be mistaken on this. The rules I read state that as long as you do not cut completely through the cross member you are good. It also states if you are moving the rack forward you are good. You however may not change the pick up points.
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08-23-2010, 09:01 PM | #1521 | |
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Quote:
they aren't listed on the site, but call or PM Dan and he can help you out!
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08-24-2010, 01:52 AM | #1522 |
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I had a question...
Why is the tension rod made to pivot independent of the LCA? Why not just weld it to the LCA instead of running a heim joint there, and make the LCA/ tension rod combo more of a lower A arm design? |
08-24-2010, 02:20 AM | #1523 | |||
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Quote:
Quote:
there is a link at the bottom of this page to buy IF tie rods POWERED BY MAX: Forums Quote:
The only reason the stock type works is the bolt holes are lose enough to change the angle/ tenrod length a little. The flat end of the stock configuration aftermarket tension rods are the weak link in a front end collision. The joint and boxed in bracket will be stronger.
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08-24-2010, 05:07 AM | #1524 | |
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Quote:
I have another day of testing coming up on Monday so should have more feedback then! Iam also trying to source the use of some corner scales so that i can accurately find my CofG position and then alter my roll centres to suit. Does anyone have a rough idea what a good roll centre height would be relative to the cog. Ie. 2inch below cog @ front and 1ich below cog @ rear My plan is to place rc where i decide is good and then check for bump steer and adjust from there. Ill start a build/project thread on here to document all my findings ect ect Cheers Kev |
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08-24-2010, 07:31 AM | #1525 | |||
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Quote:
Quote:
This is a hard one man, it depends on your springs rates, total roll resistance, and ride height. I just grabbed some good info from Mike Kojima's "Making It Stick" that was in Sport Compact Car. Quote:
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08-24-2010, 07:34 AM | #1526 | |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Quote:
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08-24-2010, 07:36 AM | #1527 |
Post Whore!
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Well then I don't know, maybe it's 1.75"+ before you'll run into over centering then.
Because I was over centering on that setup, or else I wouldn't even have opted to get my knuckles modded. |
08-24-2010, 07:57 AM | #1528 | |
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Oh, and from the same article there is this picture:
With this caption: Relocated ball joints Quote:
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08-24-2010, 08:12 AM | #1529 |
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That picture has been quoted and brought up many times before, and everytime it is the same answer: it is not the best way to do it.
Will it work? Yes. Will it last? Maybe. Will it fail? Eventually, and it will be a very spectacular failure, usually when a huge load is placed on that corner, ie. under braking, heavy cornering, etc. I mean, I guess you can switch it out every 3 races or something, but then it gets expensive... |
08-24-2010, 08:24 AM | #1530 |
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Just thought it was interesting, since everyone says not to do it. I'm pretty sure that car was tracked regularly and didn't have any problems.
I'm also pretty sure everyone in this thread knows it isn't the "best way to do it".
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anti-squat, best thread ever, kpi, roll center, steering angle, suspension |
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