SnaggleToof

So I finally got my SR swap running, however it is suuuuper lean. It idles good at high 13/14s, but when you step on the gas it doesn't get any richer. Stays 14/15 in boost.

Here is my setup:
S13 SR20DET
BC 264 cams
Z32 Maf
SARD 550 ' s
GT2871R
Walbro 255, Aeromotive FPR
PAINLESS chassis harness
Wiring specialties engine harness
ROM Tune

I set fuel pressure to 44 psi at idle with vacuum removed from the FPR. The fuel pump gets around 13 volts at idle with fans running.

I hooked up a compressor to a vacuum line and checked for leaks, I found a couple small vacuum leaks which I took care of, but still no difference.

I checked the TPS as per the fsm, it is clocked correctly with proper voltage. I removed the IACV to clean it... looked perfectly clean to me.

I checked for codes and got 11, Crank position Sensor. I cleared the code and it went away... This could have been an old code as I installed the CAS recently. Only code now is code 55 (no codes)

Igniter chip tested good as per the FSM.

All injectors are firing, and I'm getting spark on all 4 cylinders.

I redid my battery ground, as it was shitty and loose... seems solid now. Engine and everything is grounded real good.

I installed a brand new AEM wideband in case mine was faulty... no difference in readings and now I have an extra wideband ha.

In short, car runs lean. No vacuum leaks, fuel pressure set correctly, pump getting proper voltage, tps and iacv are fine, getting fuel and spark.

Only thing I can think of I haven't checked would be O2 sensor, but whenever I've seen one go bad, cars run rich.

Any ideas???

Kingtal0n

add fuel to the tune or increase fuel pressure

__________________
5.3/4l80e/turbo 240sx playthrough:
https://tinyurl.com/turbo240

SnaggleToof

I increased fuel pressure, it made the AFR at idle more rich, but under any throttle zero difference.

I am hoping I don't have to get it returned, hoping it's something else no tuners within 3 hours of me and Noone that will do a ROM tune

KoukiMonsta

sounds like a tune issue...get something like enthalpy or jwt. thats a common setup.

Croustibat

"ROM tune" > bin that, get a custom tune.

SnaggleToof

It is a custom tune, eprom chip, tune by a shop about 3 hours away from me.

inopsey

what condition your fuel filter in? when was it changed last

SnaggleToof

Don't even have a fuel filter in right now.

Right now it goes straight from the fuel cell to pump to rail.

Brand new cell and fuel, was going to put the filter in when I put in my surge tank and other pump.

RalliartRsX

You are asking for trouble NOT running a fuel filter...........

If for some odd reason a stray particle decides your injector(s) is a good place to settle and inadvertanely block flow (although they are flowing, you are not measuring how much they actually flow vs how much the tune is setup for), you will have to have the injector(s) cleaned andf flow tested...........And this can inadvertantly lead to what condition you are having (not saying this is the answer, but I wouldn't be surprised, no matter how new your equipment it. You have no control over fuel quality from the pump............ )

But who knows. Delve into it and see yourself!

SnaggleToof

Bought an earls inline filter today and took the injectors out to get them flow tested and cleaned. Found out Noone within hours of me can test/clean side feed injectors.


Took injectors out and there is a plastic part broken on all 4 of them. Not sure if this would affect it at all?

Kingtal0n

if increasing the fuel pressure by 10 PSI GLOBAL does NOTHING to richen your WOT air fuel ratios, you have a fuel delivery problem. Start by adding a fuel filter (please) and then consider watching your fuel pressure during boost. Compare with your previous settings to verify the pressure does in fact go up (is maintained).

the blind thing to do is swap fuel pumps (in case you have a spare sitting around)

__________________
5.3/4l80e/turbo 240sx playthrough:
https://tinyurl.com/turbo240

RalliartRsX

Those injector o-rings look hagarred on one and completely missing on the other! In addition, the lower o-ring on one injector is non-existent (I can see potential for leaks and inconsistency injector spray, etc). I wouldn't be surprised if all injectors were like that..............

SnaggleToof

They are only missing the o-ring because I took them off to get a picture of what they look like underneath. But yes, the o-ring are definitely soggy haha.

I bought some brand new Five-o injectors and am putting an aeromotive fuel pump in... hopefully this solves my issue. If not, new tune.

RalliartRsX

Don't forget to install a filter

SnaggleToof

Did you read the posts?

RalliartRsX

Bought does not translate to mean install.....................

You may need to go back and read your own posts........

SnaggleToof

Well I didn't buy it to just look at it

RalliartRsX

Earls fliters make great coffee strainers

SnaggleToof

I think I'm gunna run 2 of them anyway, one for before the 2 pumps and one for after.

RalliartRsX

To me personally that sounds like overkill and a waste of money. The pump itself should have a sock on it which acts as a pre-filter for the bigger particles. The smaller particles will be filtered by the fiilter (Earls in your case) pre-injectors/pre-rail.

Stick with the one post pump/before rail and you should be all set! The idea is to make sure the source right before the injector is getting filtered.

SnaggleToof

I have a fuel cell setup with a surge tank and dual inline fuel pumps. Not a in - tank pump with filter.

Ideally I'd like to have a filter before the pumps and one before the rail. A few extra bucks on an extra fuel filter isn't gunna break the bank considering how much money I've spent on this car.

RalliartRsX

Makes sense. Good luck!

SnaggleToof

Hnnng

quickdiversion

WHat fuel injectors are those???
All sr20 side feed injectors I have ever seen end right where that plastic piece is borken, and only have 1 o-ring at the bottom, not a stack of 2 and 3. It looks like someone added on some kinda of direction spray tip to the end of those injectors.


Are those that TiTek NIS-550cc ones?

Back to what could chew the rings up like that. Did you use a lubricant to install the injectors into the rail?. You can't just push them in there dry or coated in gas, the will drag, pull, and rip. The best thing I have used is vasoline. just a very little bit on the rings to help it slide in. then just run the pump for 2 or 3 minutes so the gas can take all the vasoline off once they are in the rail and the small leaks, if any, seal up. Change side feed injectors on 6 different rails ka and sr like that and never ripped a ring. Learn that little tid bit in Okinawa